|
Zuul the Cat posted:I never get tired of seeing your amazing Ultramarines. How big is your collection at this point? Thanks man! It's not insignificant, definitely running out of shelf space!
|
# ? Mar 11, 2021 19:25 |
|
|
# ? Jun 5, 2024 05:40 |
|
Are there companies in the green stuff roller game besides GSW? The first few pages of search results are all links to GSW or people talking about GSW rollers.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2021 13:21 |
|
Search Etsy for "textured rollers" Edit: if you have access to a 3D printer there are lots of files for rollers available online as well
|
# ? Mar 12, 2021 13:46 |
|
3d printer model sites also host rollers and usually services where they'll print and mail to you.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2021 13:48 |
|
Iron Warriors update: My project to replace the legs on my Leviathan with Dunecrawler legs failed (size is off, arms don't sit right), so I slammed both my dreads together to start getting some progress made. Aside from a basic zenithal highlight I did the hazard striping and chipping and threw some Vallejo liquid silver on parts of them. I'm still trying tying figure out the remainder of the paint schemes though. Also trying to figure out what bits to add (and where) to give them more life. I have chain and barbed wire, I just need to work it in. I'd like to create loinclothes (or whatever they're called) to kind of thicken them up a bit visually in the legs. Maybe I can add some guitar strings somewhere as well? Here's a WIP with my crappy cell: The Demilich fucked around with this message at 02:08 on May 22, 2022 |
# ? Mar 12, 2021 19:31 |
|
Finally managed to get some swing lamps from Ikea for the home studio.
|
# ? Mar 12, 2021 23:22 |
|
I’ve seen a few videos recently where the painter is advocating using tamiya lacquer thinner for spraying the regular non lacquer tamiya acrylics. The justification being that this makes them “more durable”. Is this actually a thing or is it another bit of scale modeller wisdom like insisting on thinning with windex or varnishing with floor polish?
|
# ? Mar 13, 2021 00:50 |
|
Mr Teatime posted:I’ve seen a few videos recently where the painter is advocating using tamiya lacquer thinner for spraying the regular non lacquer tamiya acrylics. The justification being that this makes them “more durable”. Tamiya "acrylics" have a hybrid lacquer base, as opposed to almost other acrylics having a water base. This is more common in model paints produced in asia, where acrylics don't necessarily have a water base, as they almost always do in european and north american model paints. AK Interactive has recently produced a line of lacquer-based acrylics to compete with Tamiya, and they're one of the first companies outside of asia to do so. Tamiya itself makes an "acrylic" thinner for their paints, but in truth their "lacquer" thinner is superior and gives better results. Any other lacquer thinner, like the ever popular Mr Leveling Thinner, works very well with Tamiya paints as well.
|
# ? Mar 13, 2021 05:14 |
|
Last weekend I got my Malifaux Toni Ironsides M&SU keyword models done Toni herself Mouse The Captain. I'm honestly not sure if he's supposed to have an eyepatch or a monocle, I made a call. And Joshua Fitzsimmons. I dont do much freehand, ever, so the sign came out... Well, its supposed to look hand painted, thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it. Bonus Crew shot with Howard Langston who also works that keyword and I painted a couple of weeks ago.
|
# ? Mar 13, 2021 23:21 |
|
Decided to get bases for both my Dreadnoughts going. Both are going to be 90mm. 1st one Before: 1st one 15 minutes later: I only came up with a plan for one base so I'm trying to figure out what to do with the other The Demilich fucked around with this message at 02:09 on May 22, 2022 |
# ? Mar 14, 2021 00:08 |
|
Do you have any old vehicles/vehicle parts lying around? I took a hacksaw to an old land raider and am using the front corner of the tread on a Redemptor base. I posed the Dreadnought so it's stepping imposingly on the wreckage. That could be a neat option that's a bit different to your first base.
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 03:05 |
|
My first 28mm painting (The rest of the unit is waiting for me to decide if I want to figure out faces or just throw a bunch of wash on it)
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 15:36 |
|
Finished an Elf this weekend.
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 16:01 |
|
Alright ladies and gentlemen I'm gonna try wet blending again, this time with retarder medium
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 16:41 |
|
Phi230 posted:Alright ladies and gentlemen I'm gonna try wet blending again, this time with retarder medium Funny you mention that, I just gave this a shot and now I feel that I'm getting the hang of blending This was just done with using feathering to glaze in colors. Much easier than wet blending but took a decent amount of time because it's all just a lot of thin layers Edit: I went for broke and tried some more, not as scary once I got the feel for it Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Mar 14, 2021 |
# ? Mar 14, 2021 16:51 |
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Funny you mention that, I just gave this a shot and now I feel that I'm getting the hang of blending You nailed it, the water looks terrific!
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 17:49 |
|
I'm thinking of getting back into miniature painting, basically starting from scratch, and buying a citadel starter paint set for convenience. I had an old citadel paint set with the hexagon screw caps and I remember that sometimes the lid wouldn't screw in very good and the paint would dry pretty quickly. I've heard that the new (fliptop?) jars are worse at closing and not drying out, and I'm planning on painting on the weekends, probably not everyday. Are there any tips for storing the paint to make sure it lasts?
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 17:50 |
|
tofuwizard posted:I'm thinking of getting back into miniature painting, basically starting from scratch, and buying a citadel starter paint set for convenience. I honestly think you’ll be fine, just make sure they’re closed and if they get gunked up just use a toothpick to get the dried paint out of the cap.
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 18:13 |
|
tofuwizard posted:I'm thinking of getting back into miniature painting, basically starting from scratch, and buying a citadel starter paint set for convenience. Yeah, if you make sure the pot is properly closed (and doesnt just look closed...) and have something to clear out the seal you should be fine. Some people do stuff like decant them into dropper bottles, but honestly thats a lot of hassle for something you arent going to be using every day. I've heard those hexagonal screw caps were a real horror show, and the new ones arent as bad as that.
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 18:33 |
|
I tried painting mediterranean skin. It looks... so bad. You ever paint something so bad it actually looks kind of racist?
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 19:00 |
|
Done did a Primaris Apothecary for my budding Deathwatch army mans.
|
# ? Mar 14, 2021 19:58 |
|
god drat dude
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 00:13 |
|
That holster detail work is just excellent.
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 00:19 |
|
This year I started a new project, and took a couple snaps over the weekend of what I've finished so far; A Spirit Seer and some ghosty boys. Yeast fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Mar 15, 2021 |
# ? Mar 15, 2021 02:00 |
|
Verisimilidude posted:I honestly think you’ll be fine, just make sure they’re closed and if they get gunked up just use a toothpick to get the dried paint out of the cap. SiKboy posted:Yeah, if you make sure the pot is properly closed (and doesnt just look closed...) and have something to clear out the seal you should be fine. Some people do stuff like decant them into dropper bottles, but honestly thats a lot of hassle for something you arent going to be using every day. I've heard those hexagonal screw caps were a real horror show, and the new ones arent as bad as that. Cool. Sounds like just doing the basic steps of making sure the cap and rim parts are all clean and shut all the way should be good enough (at least for me).
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 02:31 |
|
Doing a cheeky cross post:Harvey Mantaco posted:Painting some of the emperors finest...
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 04:39 |
|
Amazing
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 04:51 |
|
I painted my first mini in like 15 years! I feel pretty good about it especially considering I don't have any washes and only have like the vallejo starter set (which is really great by the way). If anyone has any critique I would love it, even though i'm pretty sure it's gonna be "paint 100 more mans" since it's hard to actually give a beginner critique. However the paint is super fragile? like I figure the primer they use isn't any good, but I can wipe off paint super easy so I want to varnish it. Does anyone have any favorite rattlecan gloss varnishes (I don't have an airbrush/I'm in the US). Or should I be brushing on my gloss varnishes? I have the tamiya clear coat in a can but I figure I should just do the standard gloss -> matte advice until I know what I'm doing. Placentaur fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Mar 15, 2021 |
# ? Mar 15, 2021 07:21 |
|
Placentaur posted:I painted my first mini in like 15 years! I feel pretty good about it especially considering I don't have any washes and only have like the vallejo starter set (which is really great by the way). If anyone has any critique I would love it, even though i'm pretty sure it's gonna be "paint 100 more mans" since it's hard to actually give a beginner critique. According to Goobertown's "Funyons, Monopoly board, and clothes dryer" test, matte and gloss protect about the same as long as they're sprayed on. https://youtu.be/1hRYhns1h3Q
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 11:56 |
|
Is there a non GW alternative to GW's Black Templar contrast paint? I want do do a faded black Orruk armor and so I need that paint to put over some steel armor paint (the result looks very much like what I want). But because of reasons it's a hassle for me to get GW paints, Vallejo is much easier. Or is there maybe a good recipe to make it? I have flow improver, thinner, black ink and everything but I'm not sure what the result or ratios should be.
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 15:34 |
|
Furism posted:Is there a non GW alternative to GW's Black Templar contrast paint? I want do do a faded black Orruk armor and so I need that paint to put over some steel armor paint (the result looks very much like what I want). But because of reasons it's a hassle for me to get GW paints, Vallejo is much easier. There is no clear recipe for making things like washes or contrast paints, you'll just have to experiment until you find something that works for you. You can check out this video by Goobertown hobbies on how to make some contrast analogues https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU0rc0EOOys Fundamentally, contrast paints work similarly to transparent washes but with a higher concentration of pigment. I've heard them referred to as transparent inks if that makes sense.
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 15:39 |
|
Verisimilidude posted:Fundamentally, contrast paints work similarly to transparent washes but with a higher concentration of pigment. I've heard them referred to as transparent inks if that makes sense. Sure, but it feels like the consistency is a also one of the big differentiator isn't it? It seems they are somehow thicker than inks but still very... "flowy", for a lack of better term. Will definitely check out the video you linked though, and just play with extra bits I have, thanks!
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 15:41 |
|
in my experience contrast paints are much easier to brush on than inks - i find the latter really hard to paint with and get a nice smooth coverage but contrasts not so much
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 16:20 |
|
Took about three weeks but finally finished this Venerable Dreadnought. also wrapped this Chaplain last month
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 18:46 |
|
So what paint line do you all like to put through your airbrushes? I have some older vallejos dropper bottles that worked ~ok~, some citadel pots that did NOT take to the brush well and are even harder to get into a dropper, and both took forever to clean out of the brush. I was easily spending 5 minutes attempting to clean the brush per 30 seconds of spraying.
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 20:28 |
|
Dr. Red Ranger posted:So what paint line do you all like to put through your airbrushes? I have some older vallejos dropper bottles that worked ~ok~, some citadel pots that did NOT take to the brush well and are even harder to get into a dropper, and both took forever to clean out of the brush. I was easily spending 5 minutes attempting to clean the brush per 30 seconds of spraying. Just want to make sure, you're thinning them, right?
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 20:32 |
|
Placentaur posted:Does anyone have any favorite rattlecan gloss varnishes (I don't have an airbrush/I'm in the US). Or should I be brushing on my gloss varnishes? I have the tamiya clear coat in a can but I figure I should just do the standard gloss -> matte advice until I know what I'm doing. Most people here use Dullcote for their spray varnish but it's matte. Sometimes matte can frost up so a layer of gloss first can prevent it. Gloss also works as a bit of an alert if your model is getting shiny that means it's starting to wear away.
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 20:35 |
|
Dr. Red Ranger posted:So what paint line do you all like to put through your airbrushes? I have some older vallejos dropper bottles that worked ~ok~, some citadel pots that did NOT take to the brush well and are even harder to get into a dropper, and both took forever to clean out of the brush. I was easily spending 5 minutes attempting to clean the brush per 30 seconds of spraying. I've had good luck with most of the Vallejo model air colors I've used straight out of the bottle, but some still require thinning. I also really love Daler Rowny/Liquitex inks which work straight out of the bottle, and the Vallejo metal colors as well. Had a good experience with the P3 yellow ink straight out of the bottle, and Golden high flow acrylics work perfectly out of an airbrush as well.
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 20:39 |
|
I’ve brushed on winsor and newton galeria matte varnish and it didn’t frost over for me at all
|
# ? Mar 15, 2021 20:42 |
|
|
# ? Jun 5, 2024 05:40 |
|
Cat Face Joe posted:Just want to make sure, you're thinning them, right? Yeah, definitely. I bought some flow improver (this is the correct product, yes?) that I've tried to use to mix it into a more agreeable viscosity. While I'm asking, what's the best way to clean out the brush? Full breakdown and soak would be best but isn't feasable between every color change, but running airbrush cleaner through my badger doesn't exactly work quickly either. Do I need to let it soak in there for a while? Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Mar 15, 2021 |
# ? Mar 15, 2021 21:10 |