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I just shoot water through it then load up the next color. It doesn't take long. If I used a varnish then I'll shoot some strong alcohol or mineral spirit through it. If I was shooting oils through it, or something enamel based, I'll shoot some solvent through it. I only do full breakdowns once every few sessions and a partial clean at the start of a session.
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Mar 15, 2021 21:22
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BULBASAUR posted:I just shoot water through it then load up the next color. It doesn't take long. If I used a varnish then I'll shoot some strong alcohol or mineral spirit through it. If I was shooting oils through it, or something enamel based, I'll shoot some solvent through it. I only do full breakdowns once every few sessions and a partial clean at the start of a session. Ok. Should I be concerned if, say, I use some thinned Vallejo model color, then after shooting some cleaning solution through the brush I can still see some purple or what have you collected at the bottom of the cup around the needle? Or am I simply not thinning my paints enough?
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Mar 15, 2021 21:28
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quote:Ok. Should I be concerned if, say, I use some thinned Vallejo model color, then after shooting some cleaning solution through the brush I can still see some purple or what have you collected at the bottom of the cup around the needle? Kind of sounds like your paints aren't getting mixed with your water properly and unthinned paint is collecting under the needle. Also you absolutely should not need to blast thinner to rinse the airbrush out after every colour. Dr. Red Ranger posted:Or am I simply not thinning my paints enough? Sounds like it, yeah. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEIJs1c4bsQ I found this video very helpful, personally.
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Mar 15, 2021 21:40
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:Yeah, definitely. I bought some flow improver (this is the correct product, yes?) that I've tried to use to mix it into a more agreeable viscosity. Flow improver and thinner are actually two different things - thinner is what you want to reduce viscosity, flow improver includes a drying retardant to keep the paint from drying as it's leaving the nozzle and clogging it up / giving you that frosted effect you get if paint dries before it actually hits the surface. For cleaning, I have a condiment squeeze bottle full of water that I keep handy + actual airbrush cleaner. I turn my airbrush upside down over top of a bowl and squirt water into it (upside down so the pressure doesn't pack any paint further down inside the airbrush) until the bulk of the paint is gone, then follow it up with cleaner to reduce how much I need to use. Also, are you backflowing when you use the cleaner? It really helps push all of the paint away from the nozzle / tip of the needle and creates enough agitation to dislodge most stuff. You'll probably always have a *little* bit of dried paint down in the crevices until you do a periodic deep clean or really go to town with some soft interdental brushes, though - it shouldn't be an issue unless you have a super finicky airbrush.
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Mar 15, 2021 22:15
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tofuwizard posted:I'm thinking of getting back into miniature painting, basically starting from scratch, and buying a citadel starter paint set for convenience. Nothing on earth is as bad as those old screw tops for drying out, you’ll be alright. What they were thinking with them I’ll never work out.
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Mar 15, 2021 22:21
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Also, Flow Improver is very, very strong, you shouldn't put more than one or two drops in the airbrush tank (or the thing you mix your paint in). It can lead to very, very bad results where the pigments are all over the place, and not in a good way.
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Mar 15, 2021 22:29
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Done enough with this entry for an LGS painting comp. Rules were just "monster" so I picked a reaper bones mammoth of the shelf and tried out some new techniques on something in my comfort zone. 
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Mar 15, 2021 23:30
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Spanish Manlove posted:Done enough with this entry for an LGS painting comp. Rules were just "monster" so I picked a reaper bones mammoth of the shelf and tried out some new techniques on something in my comfort zone. That basing is awesome, I actually painted this mini up for my daughter so didn't base it but I love the idea (and honestly it doesn't stand up for poo poo without a base so  ).
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Mar 15, 2021 23:34
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:While I'm asking, what's the best way to clean out the brush? Full breakdown and soak would be best but isn't feasable between every color change, but running airbrush cleaner through my badger doesn't exactly work quickly either. Do I need to let it soak in there for a while? For a color change I walk over to the sink, run some hot water into the cup, spray out what's left, then run a little cleaner through. Works a treat. I only do a teardown clean when I start getting foaming around the nozzle - it's time to put another layer of beeswax on anyway. The bits that get paint spend some quality time in alcohol then get scrubbed with the bottle brushes. Dry, then apply a little beeswax on the metal to metal contact areas around the nozzle. That gives you a much better seal than just metal on metal.
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Mar 16, 2021 00:08
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Working on deathwatch force, here's my first, a primaris watch captain:  No prizes for guessing his original chapter, but it was a fun exercise trying out greenstuffing a fur collar for him.
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Mar 16, 2021 01:10
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tangy yet delightful posted:That basing is awesome, I actually painted this mini up for my daughter so didn't base it but I love the idea (and honestly it doesn't stand up for poo poo without a base so Thank you very much! The ground portion of the base is straight up from Rockfish's tau and other stuff, the water is a bit of vince venturella and some experimenting. And yeah the model really doesn't want to stand on its own, the snow around the front right foot is to hide how that doesn't sit flat on the ground. But drat I'm proud of this and want to keep getting better at it.
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Mar 16, 2021 01:58
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Been using Battletech minis to experiment with different ways of doing highlighting and shading, camo schemes, cockpit windows, and basing. Some turned out better than others, but overall I'm happy with them so far.  Also, found out about Hero Forge from a Duncan Rhodes video. I was just playing around with the creator but ended up making Torque from XCOM: Chimera Squad.   Verge gets here in a couple of weeks: 
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Mar 16, 2021 03:05
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Condoleezza Nice! posted:Working on deathwatch force, here's my first, a primaris watch captain: That's baller! I don't think I've seen that fancy sword swinging brother before. What's the model? I've been planning to make my DW Captain or one of my Lieutenants from the Emperor's Spears and I've also been reading up on ways to make a fur cloak or collar out of greenstuff. So this is great inspiration.
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Mar 16, 2021 03:27
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AndyElusive posted:That's baller! I don't think I've seen that fancy sword swinging brother before. What's the model? Thanks! He’s a kitbash. The body is Lieutenant Tolmeron, the left arm is from the swaggering sergeant from Dark Imperium with the premolded pauldron chopped off, and the sword arm is from the Bladeguard multipose set. The helmet is from a regular intercessor with the plume stolen from the primaris captain kit. Expensive on its own, but they were bits I had lying around unused so I figured hey, why not.
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Mar 16, 2021 13:37
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Stupid question, but how do you backflow with an exposed needle on a sotar 2020? I need to unlock this ability
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Mar 16, 2021 17:42
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paper towel
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Mar 16, 2021 17:43
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Condoleezza Nice! posted:Thanks! I love doing this with leftover parts or parts I wanted to use at one point then decided "nah"
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Mar 16, 2021 17:47
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BULBASAUR posted:Stupid question, but how do you backflow with an exposed needle on a sotar 2020? I need to unlock this ability I use the protective cap it came with.
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Mar 16, 2021 18:34
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BULBASAUR posted:Stupid question, but how do you backflow with an exposed needle on a sotar 2020? I need to unlock this ability Pull the trigger all the way back without pressing it down. Then pinch/cover the nozzle with a paper towel and press the button down. Then remove your fingers from the nozzle before letting the trigger move forward.
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Mar 16, 2021 19:32
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I don't own an airbrush but I have seen youtubers like to use a makeup sponge for backflow too.
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Mar 16, 2021 19:54
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putting in my recommendation for Vallejo Pale Sand 70.837 as a substitute for wraithbone. It's slightly more warm than wraithbone, and a little less green/more yellow, but it's the closest I've found and it airbrushes with some thinner like a dream.
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Mar 16, 2021 19:57
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Painted up 5 more 40 minute boyz and a kitbashed nob just for fun. The boyz are painting in my typical style but I've kept refining them by adding some checker boxes to the weapons and used a warm tone for the zenithal rather than white ink, which works much better with the washes I use. Also did a different technique for the base to make it look a little more interesting than the last batch. The nob is painted with oils.
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Mar 16, 2021 21:25
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Yeast posted:This year I started a new project, and took a couple snaps over the weekend of what I've finished so far; That better be airbrush work on the yellow, or you're going to get burnt at the stake after such blatant displays of witchcraft...
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Mar 16, 2021 22:21
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Odd question, but does anyone know of a good mini that could pass for Vigo the Carpathian from Ghostbusters 2 (in 28mm)? I want to make him the leader of a vampire/undead warband for Mordheim
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Mar 17, 2021 00:09
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I want to mount my Raiders, Reavers and Hellions on something that isnt going to immediately snap off or wilt, but still be removable for transport purposes Anyone know of any options? Flying bases are the worst
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Mar 17, 2021 01:59
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You could try magnetizing the flight bases to make the flight peg removable from the base itself. Then it'd just be a matter of taking the model off the peg, taking the peg off the base, and transporting all of the individual components? I've never tried it but I know it's possible. Here's a quick MSPaint diagram 
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Mar 17, 2021 02:10
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I have done that with various things, and it works... okay. Size wise I have done it with both a zephyrim squad and a eldar wave serpent. You need big honking magnets for the latter, I think I used 10 x 3 and they can still rotate a bit if I accidentally push them. I haven’t broken any stems yet, so it works for that. It’s not great for transporting (e: magnetised that is, with foam its fine) because jostling them makes them come of the stems and there are no good places to put the magnets on the model where they both work for the flying stem and can keep it magnetized to the transport case. The other option is is to build a cool base that goes instead of a flying stem. Like, my Celestine is sitting on a sturdy column I glued to the bass at approximate the same height. I’ve seen people sculpt smoke exhaust clouds (out of green stuff) that come down from jet packs to the base, for example. Revelation 2-13 fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 06:59
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Verisimilidude posted:Painted up 5 more 40 minute boyz and a kitbashed nob just for fun. I'm normally not a huge fan of very flashy Orkz but this is awesome. Did you explain your process earlier in the thread?
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Mar 17, 2021 08:47
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Miles O'Brian posted:I want to mount my Raiders, Reavers and Hellions on something that isnt going to immediately snap off or wilt, but still be removable for transport purposes Look into Hawk Wargames' flight stands and widgets. You'll have to adjust some bases, but you glue a widget to the underside of the model, then the flight stand is removable from that. https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/dropzone-essentials/5504-small-flight-stand-pack
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Mar 17, 2021 10:22
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Batch of bases for my SAGA army before I make them snowy and icy. I'll be turning them into a 'first frost of the late fall' type look. These are probably the best bases I've painted so I'm scared to ruin them with the next steps    
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Mar 17, 2021 11:00
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BULBASAUR posted:Batch of bases for my SAGA army before I make them snowy and icy. I'll be turning them into a 'first frost of the late fall' type look. These are probably the best bases I've painted so I'm scared to ruin them with the next steps those are REALLY nice. What'd you use for the leaf litter?
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Mar 17, 2021 11:02
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BULBASAUR posted:Batch of bases for my SAGA army before I make them snowy and icy. I'll be turning them into a 'first frost of the late fall' type look. These are probably the best bases I've painted so I'm scared to ruin them with the next steps
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Mar 17, 2021 11:10
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Thanks! I'm especially proud of how those rocks turned out, as dumb as it sounds. I had a breakthrough with the leaf litter- I used real leaves with birch leaf seed pods, but it wasn't getting the fall colors like I see around here. So I raided my tea cabinet. I added yerba matte and rooibos, ground it all together with a mortar and pestle, added some PVA, and it turned out great. e: the water cometh 
BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 11:13
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This probably has been answered somewhere in the past 100s of pages, but does anyone have an alternative to Stynylrez black primer? I think mine has gone bad. I've had it for maybe 10 months and in the past month or two it has been harder and harder to get it to spray out. Last night was my last straw. I thought maybe my airbrush was clogged, but everything else sprays out of it fine. It does seem thicker than normal (I'm shaking it) and even though I didn't think it would help (it didnt), I also experimented with adding airbrush thinner. I may just need to use the bottle up faster?
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Mar 17, 2021 15:05
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Vallejo Mecha Primer works really well for me
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Mar 17, 2021 15:06
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The regular Vallejo surface primer works really well too. I had the exact same problems with stynylrez, except mine was brand new. Switched to Vallejo and haven't had a single problem since.
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Mar 17, 2021 16:15
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I like the surface primer too, never had a problem with either the red-brown or black bottles, but a lot of people really don't get good results with it so I'm always a bit hesitant to recommend it to others
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Mar 17, 2021 16:24
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Furism posted:I'm normally not a huge fan of very flashy Orkz but this is awesome. Did you explain your process earlier in the thread? I'm sure I have, but the process is as follows: 1. prime black 2. zenithal highlight Vallejo pale sand or white/wraithbone 3. skin: contrast plaguebearer flesh -> wash with Bieltan Green; teeth: dark brown (I used wyldwood for these since my rhinox hide ran out) -> wraithbone 4. shirt: contrast black templar 5. straps/belts: contrast gore-grunta fur or wyldwood 6. pants: contrast iyanden yellow or snakebite leather 7. boots: contrast fleshtearers red 8. metal: Vallejo metal color gunmetal grey or leadbelcher 9. wash metal and shirt/straps/belts with mix of nuln oil and agrax earthshade 10. AP dry rust on the metal (any rust, ultra matte paint will work) 11. highlight metal (I used Vallejo metal color steel but any brighter silver works) 12. base: contrast gore-grunta fur -> red oxide pigment powder 13. AK interactive ultra matte varnish optional checker boxes: before metal is washed, use white ink to paint individual boxes rather than drawing out a grid. I find it looks a little more orky this way optional hair/fur: contrast apothacary white -> same wash as the metal -> drybrush wraithbone optional tongues: before teeth are done, contrast volupus pink over entire mouth Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 16:37
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BULBASAUR posted:Batch of bases for my SAGA army before I make them snowy and icy. I'll be turning them into a 'first frost of the late fall' type look. These are probably the best bases I've painted so I'm scared to ruin them with the next steps drat, these are fantastic. I might have to try this method out!
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Mar 17, 2021 17:38
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BULBASAUR posted:Thanks! I'm especially proud of how those rocks turned out, as dumb as it sounds. I love this idea and how it came out. Late fall is such a cool theme and I want to see how the models will look on them.
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Mar 17, 2021 17:53
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