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Been playing a new game with meteors turned off so I can have a pretty space biome instead of the ugly bunker doors. And my oil biome had a volcano that turned oil into sour gas and lead molten. In my attempt to vent the sour gas into space I decided to just dump my water into the oil biome to cool it down.   It may have been easier to just repair the pump pumping it out instead of trying to cool it down with water. My polluted water tank is empty because I dumped it down there also.
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Mar 17, 2021 14:58
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endlessmonotony posted:Oh, I know how both work in the game.
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Mar 17, 2021 16:33
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Maybe pouring water down in the oil biome was a bad idea. But maybe it was good because I got the sour gas out of it! 
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Mar 17, 2021 18:39
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Microcline posted:From what I understand that would only sterilize the surface of the water. It's kind of silly, but for chlorine to fully sterilize water it has to be in a storage tank (which can then be attached to an automation system that ensures the water has been completely sterilized, either through timing or a germ sensor). No automation needed if you can afford to keep 2 full reservoirs of water in the chlorine room and you never let them drop below full. Thanks to the averaging effect when adding/removing water from reservoirs a chain of 2 will emit germ free water without any need for automation/timers/shut offs.
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Mar 17, 2021 19:48
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Shumagorath posted:Nope. Uhh, they're completely correct? The tepidizer is literally the worst possible solution for sanitizing germs in the game. Even if you do decide to use heat to sanitize for some reason, it should be in the form of an aquatuner as part of a cooling loop for something else.
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Mar 18, 2021 09:15
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I can't believe how many people decided to show their rear end over a bad joke about a new player using the devil's coil. Food poisoning germs die at 45•C and you absolutely don't need to boil anything to kill them. You can also do it with less research and power than an aquatuner.
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Mar 18, 2021 10:12
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Shumagorath posted:I can't believe how many people decided to show their rear end over a bad joke about a new player using the devil's coil. Food poisoning germs die at 45•C and you absolutely don't need to boil anything to kill them. You can also do it with less research and power than an aquatuner. I won't lie, I did this as a young, dumb player. I felt clever heating up the water to clean it and quickly figured out I had duly hosed myself. Obviously there are much better, much more efficient solutions but the liquid heater does sit there calling out to you as a siren's song if you aren't sure what else to do.
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Mar 18, 2021 12:10
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TheHoosier posted:I won't lie, I did this as a young, dumb player. I felt clever heating up the water to clean it and quickly figured out I had duly hosed myself. Obviously there are much better, much more efficient solutions but the liquid heater does sit there calling out to you as a siren's song if you aren't sure what else to do. That's what I did at first too. It was the first actual use of automation that I ever set up, and it was cool to watch it run. If you're only using it to sterilize the pwater that actually has germs in it and not heating up your entire water supply, it won't kill your colony, but it is tremendously wasteful compared to using chlorine and tanks.
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Mar 18, 2021 20:44
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Just started this and I'm obsessed. I haven't gone past the mid game yet as I always end up having temperature problems that cascade into chaos. Some beginner questions: 02: I usually go straight into the slime biome and clear it out and store it for my deodorizers. Is it more efficient to convert to algae for O2 diffusers? CO2: I usually just create a sink for it. Should I be pumping it out to space or using carbon skimmers attached to a sieve to harness the polluted water? Is there any good way to harness a CO2 geyser? Temp: How do you cool your water and O2 without coming across a cool steam vent or mining ice? Should I just be making ice? Will building my power plants or carbon skimmers inside the ice biome melt it naturally into cool water?
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Mar 19, 2021 14:03
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You want to keep some CO2 around. It's needed for some plants, and putting ration boxes in a CO2 filled pit is a good way to make sure your food doesn't spoil without wasting power on refrigerators.
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Mar 19, 2021 14:16
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Remember the seive used to reset water temperature. That would have made the tepidizer way more viable, especially since there weren't tanks to immerse in chlorine.
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Mar 19, 2021 14:25
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TommyGun85 posted:Just started this and I'm obsessed. I haven't gone past the mid game yet as I always end up having temperature problems that cascade into chaos. O2: The easiest early/early-mid game oxygen production comes from mining algae for diffusers. Assuming you're expanding at a decent pace (e.g. by clearing out slime biomes like you mentioned) and not taking on too many dupes, algae should carry you at least 100 cycles. I'm not sure I totally understand what you're storing for your deodorizers, but cracking into the slime biome and deodorizing it is also a way to get oxygen. I wouldn't really see this as an either/or thing - you can mine the slime biome to get algae for your diffusers and also the slime biome has polluted oxygen in it that you can deodorize. CO2: This is kinda dependent on your needs. Creating a sink or otherwise letting it pool below your base works totally fine. But if it starts to rise into areas that you don't want to be filled with CO2, you'll need to come up with another solution. Either of the ones you mention will work, and neither is very difficult, though venting into space might not be super convenient in the early game. You might want to consider creating CO2 rooms in otherwise breathable areas to use for food storage or mushroom production. In general CO2 management is not hard. I've never bothered to crack open a CO2 geyser; your base will produce enough. Temp: Long-term heat management really only has one good solution, and it's not super obvious, but I'm gonna spoil this in case you want to try to figure it out yourself. You need to create a cooling loop using a steam turbine and an aquatuner. Aquatuners cool down liquid that runs through them by a certain amount and transfer that thermal energy to themselves. If you put an aquatuner in a sealed chamber containing water, the water will eventually become steam, because the aquatuner heats up as it works and transfers that heat into its environment. If there's a steam turbine connected to the roof of that chamber, once the steam gets hot enough, the steam turbine will begin to run. The steam turbine converts some of the heat into electricity (i.e., it deletes the heat) and then outputs hot water, which you can feed back into the steam chamber where the aquatuner is. So basically you run the liquid you want to cool through the aquatuner, which spits it out a certain number of degrees cooler, and the turbine deletes some of the heat generated from that process. You can control the output temperature of the liquid you are cooling by using automation to control when the autotuner activates. There are many guides on how to set up a cooling loop. To cool gasses, you set up a liquid cooling loop using the above method and set up some form of heat exchange between the cool liquid pipes and gas ducts containing whatever gas you want to cool. There are various ways to do this. Steam turbines and aquatuners require materials that you probably don't have access to yet, like steel and plastic. Those materials more or less gate your progress in the game and acquiring them is a major goal for any base trying to get into the mid-game. Bold Robot fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Mar 19, 2021 |
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Mar 19, 2021 14:30
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TommyGun85 posted:
Perhaps you meant a cool slush geyser, but just in case: a "cool" steam vent is still steam, that is, 100+ degrees C. You could however use the CO2 geyser you mentioned for cooling though, as liquid CO2 is quite cold!
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Mar 19, 2021 15:44
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Most geysers cause an obscene amount of heat and your usually better off touching them until later.
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Mar 19, 2021 15:48
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I was able to fix my terrible sour gas steam explosion I caused. It took forever because the steam, water, and sour gas were so hot outside the oil biome that dupes were getting set to the hospital over and over and also falling down the shaft on a daily basis. Majority of the sour gas is now vented into space. The insulated block at the bottom is what really helped stopping water from turning into steam.  Pumping back up the water caused a major heat spike that is not fully shown as I have brought it back down. But I dumped almost all of my water down to cool down the oil biome that I had to get my water back.  I had to cool down the water so I wanted to mess around with cooling loops again. But just cooling crude oil down to -20 wasn't going faster enough for me. So I made the cooling loop have a few aquaturners so I could just have the water shoot through all of them instead of doing small looping logic.  I just pump in the water into the cooling loop and dump it back at the top. The temp change from this method was alot faster in my opinion. I kinda need to cool down the cooling loop now and make some modifications tho.
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Mar 19, 2021 16:07
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Bold Robot posted:O2: The easiest early/early-mid game oxygen production comes from mining algae for diffusers. Assuming you're expanding at a decent pace (e.g. by clearing out slime biomes like you mentioned) and not taking on too many dupes, algae should carry you at least 100 cycles. I'm not sure I totally understand what you're storing for your deodorizers, but cracking into the slime biome and deodorizing it is also a way to get oxygen. I wouldn't really see this as an either/or thing - you can mine the slime biome to get algae for your diffusers and also the slime biome has polluted oxygen in it that you can deodorize. I usually store the slime in storage bins and let them off gas polluted oxygen which I then deodorize, but is it more efficient to just convert the slime into algae for diffusers? I didnt read your spoliers on temp cpntrol because id like to figure out the setups myself, but thank you. Im still learning rhe concepts so I msy have more beginner conceptual questions. Dezinus posted:Perhaps you meant a cool slush geyser, but just in case: a "cool" steam vent is still steam, that is, 100+ degrees C. You could however use the CO2 geyser you mentioned for cooling though, as liquid CO2 is quite cold! Ya, cool slush, but I still dont have any. Im still figuring out how to utilize the geysers for something useful. Temperature control is the main issue Im having. I can cool water with radiant loops, but I havent figured out a way to make them sustainable and have been using ice thus far.
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Mar 19, 2021 16:32
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TommyGun85 posted:I usually store the slime in storage bins and let them off gas polluted oxygen which I then deodorize, but is it more efficient to just convert the slime into algae for diffusers? Huh, hundreds of hours in this game and I never realized the slime to algae distiller existed.  So, I don't know which is a better solution for getting oxygen from slime. I would guess that your offgassing method is energy-free but doesn't produce much oxygen vs. converting the slime into algae for diffusers takes energy but gets you a decent amount of oxygen.But really just by mining algae you should have enough to run diffusers until you figure out a more sustainable O2 solution. You shouldn't need the slime.
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Mar 19, 2021 16:41
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TommyGun85 posted:02: I usually go straight into the slime biome and clear it out and store it for my deodorizers. Is it more efficient to convert to algae for O2 diffusers? I generally use slime for mushrooms, not oxygen. If you go far enough underground, you can encounter critters that eat CO2 and can be used for food production. Otherwise CO2 is mostly just a waste product. Ice biomes will melt if subjected to high temperatures, and are a great way to cool down the output of electrolyzers early on. Also, mining out a tile gives you half of the resources, but melting a tile gives you 100% of the resources, so you end up with some extra water by melting the ice biomes. Note that the only thing that makes them cool is that they start out cold and wheezewhorts provide a small amount of cooling.
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Mar 19, 2021 17:14
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Will filling up a chamber of polluted water with chlorine kill slimelung in the water? And will the chlorine dissipate? My natural gas geyser is right in the middle of a slime biome.
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Mar 19, 2021 20:06
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One early thing that really helps with heat - set up a loooooong loop of polluted water in normal pipes all around your base/farms, and down into the water sump where you stick some radiative piping. Once full it takes no power to circulate as long as you have some bridges (always add a bridge at 90 degree turns if you cam, you will thank me later for them) and it will even out the heat all the way around your base and the water sump. A small extension into a cold biome then becomes your main early-mid-game cooling, and when you do get plastic/steel for the advanced stuff, just cooling the main water tank is sufficient to control the whole base.
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Mar 19, 2021 20:11
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TommyGun85 posted:Will filling up a chamber of polluted water with chlorine kill slimelung in the water? And will the chlorine dissipate? My natural gas geyser is right in the middle of a slime biome. Slimelung should die in water. In default oni, slimelung only hurts when dupes breathe it. So, it can be in any other form and harmless.
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Mar 19, 2021 20:24
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Oh, other cool thing for new players. You know how only one gas, liquid, etc. can occupy a single tile? The same is true for germs. On a completely unrelated note, some decorative plants give off a sweet scent, and that scent is coded as a germ.
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Mar 19, 2021 22:37
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I was not aware of that. Cool!
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Mar 20, 2021 01:36
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I have a feeling its easier to keep your base clean than fill it with flowers.
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Mar 20, 2021 03:34
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Tenzarin posted:I have a feeling its easier to keep your base clean than fill it with flowers. If you use them in tandem with deodorizers at the edge of the slime biome, you can completely shut down slimelung getting into the base. Scattering a few throughout the base along with some deodorizers makes sure that even if an infected dupe coughs out some germs, they're dealt with nearly instantly. On top of that, your dupes get a stress reduction from the floral scent and a beauty bonus from the plant, so it's just a good idea in general.
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Mar 20, 2021 03:56
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Note: Does not apply if you have any dupes with Allergies. Slimelung dies in contact with anything that isn't polluted oxygen (It dies in polluted oxygen too, but very slowly). If you have trouble with Slimelung, make sure you don't have any exposed slime tiles or piles laying around. Stick the slime in a box at the bottom of your polluted water reservoir to keep it from spreading, or refine it to algae. Slimelung is relatively easy to deal with, as long as you don't have any exposed slime. Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Mar 20, 2021 |
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Mar 20, 2021 04:00
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I just hollow out biomes full of slime or atleast hollow out the slime.
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Mar 20, 2021 04:29
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Does the "small amount of liquid over a vent allow super pressurized rooms" trick still work? I stress over gas storage so I kind of need something cheaty like that.
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Mar 20, 2021 07:28
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Collateral Damage posted:Note: Does not apply if you have any dupes with Allergies. Im fairly new at this but Ive been able to easily deal with slimelung by storing slime in bins and deodorizing the polluted oxygen it emits into fresh O2...works fairly well. I need some help: What is the best technique to capturing vents/geysers. I just finiahed capturing a natural gas vent to hook up to a generator loop and it caused a mess. Natural gas everywhere even though I tried to pressurize the area and even worse the drat thing is dormant for the next 55 cycles...wtf
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Mar 20, 2021 14:01
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To avoid the mess, most people will suggest what’s usually called a “liquid lock”. It’s a way to make a choke point that dupes can pass through but gasses can’t.
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Mar 20, 2021 14:14
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I always just use a double door for geysers. Door, one tile of hallway, door. It’s not perfect, but it’s good enough to only leak a little bit. A liquid lock is better, but they’re fiddly to set up.
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Mar 20, 2021 14:29
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LegoMan posted:Does the "small amount of liquid over a vent allow super pressurized rooms" trick still work? I stress over gas storage so I kind of need something cheaty like that. Yep
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Mar 21, 2021 10:20
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Im around Cycle 130, I have 6 dupes and Im not currently consuming any natural water for anything other than research. I'd like to set up some ranching and hydroponic farms, but first Im trying to capture some geysers, which is where everything is falling apart. Ive got natural gas generators off a geyser producing power and storing the polluted water. I also have a water geyser and cool steam vent which Im tapping to store water. I want to start cooling it down with aquatuners and steam turbines but the issue Im having is getting the materials. Setting up the process for steel and plastic end up skyrocketing the ambient temperatures on my base. Any tips for how to get started, like what order should I do these things?
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Mar 21, 2021 15:49
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Setup the refinery in like a cold biome and use a pool of water for the refinery and dump it back into the pool so it takes awhile to heat that pool up. Then the refinery later to using petroluem with it going into a cooling loop with an aquatuner/steam turbine to cool it down. On the recipe page in the refinery, it will tell you how much heat that craft will add. If I remember steel adds like over 100 degrees of heat its pretty high. I prefer glossy dreckos over the plastic presses. Natural gas geysers are usually 150 degrees and bleed a ton of heat. This gets even worse if you are storing that hot gas in like 150 gas storage containers. Really almost all the geysers bleed a poo poo ton of heat when your using them. Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Mar 21, 2021 |
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Mar 21, 2021 16:45
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For the first few batches of plastic and steel you'll just need to dump the heat somewhere to worry about it later, like in a big pool of water or a patch of ice you want to melt. For general base cooling, at some point you'll need to learn to set up an aquatuner/steam turbine combo. By using an aquatuner to heat steam above 125 degrees (and cooling ph2o) and a steam turbine to cool the steam, heat can be deleted at a the cost of the difference between the energy cost of the aquatuner and the energy generation of the turbine. The ph2o cooled by the aquatuner can then do things like cool steam turbines (which need to be kept under 100). The trick with plastic and refining is that plastic melts at 159 and petroleum boils at 538, meaning that if you put the polymer presses in a steam chamber (and extract the plastic via automation) and cool your refineries with petroleum (which then exchanges heat with a steam turbine chamber), you won't need an aquatuner (other than the aquatuner used to cool the turbine coolant) and can cool these processes in a way that's ultimately power-positive. This is an image I had on my drive of a sealed polymer sauna. Usually one of the first things I build with early steel/plastic is one of these and a set of petroleum-cooled refineries. 5 presses makes a massive amount of plastic, so you'll probably want to go with less. The only caveat is to use automation to make sure the temperature of the chamber or petroleum feed never gets too high, as this will melt the plastic. 
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Mar 21, 2021 17:04
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TommyGun85 posted:Im around Cycle 130, I have 6 dupes and Im not currently consuming any natural water for anything other than research. If you've got an overabundance of a liquid or gas and you're not going to use it, don't be afraid to just heat it up and vent it into outer space if you don't yet have the technology/resources to feed the heat into a steam turbine.
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Mar 21, 2021 18:22
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TommyGun85 posted:Im around Cycle 130, I have 6 dupes and Im not currently consuming any natural water for anything other than research.
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Mar 22, 2021 09:02
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TommyGun85 posted:mid-game transition stuff Probably that Francis John video posted for you will be comprehensive, but just as a quick tip: I try to have enough atmo suits at least for my best diggers and operators by this point, and establish a limited-access "outside" portion of the base which doesn't need to have O2 piped in and will eventually absorb the majority of high-heat production for the base, including permanent power installations. Usually I don't take the time to build that suit lock out into a whole-colony affair, because once I've got large-scale refined metal access (and some initial pressed plastic, if I haven't managed glossy drecko ranching yet), the next thing I'm doing is excavating and laying out the permanent habitation module, with sleeping space for my planned final population, great hall, fancy multimedia entertainment room, showers, bathrooms, and concealed but co-pressurized space for the utility runs. At that point, only the Hab is Inside, and the other suit installation(s) get their suits stripped to fill the racks at the new main lock, then eventually torn out if I need the metal. e: it's definitely possible to build such that some or all of your farms are Inside, but I've found that insulating and pressurizing wherever they already are, or moving them to a separately insulated and pressurized space near the Hab, is enough. Bonus if you put them close: you can pipe whatever temperature control system you establish for the farms through your Hab as well, for very little extra labor, to stabilize that as well. LonsomeSon fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Mar 23, 2021 |
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Mar 23, 2021 19:22
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What do you do for utility conduits? I've always run pipes and wires down the main ladder shaft and deployed gold/granite statues along the exits.
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Mar 23, 2021 19:29
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Shumagorath posted:What do you do for utility conduits? I've always run pipes and wires down the main ladder shaft and deployed gold/granite statues along the exits. Shumagorath posted:What do you do for utility conduits? I've always run pipes and wires down the main ladder shaft and deployed gold/granite statues along the exits. The Hab itself has a main airlock, which I normally place at the top or bottom, and opens directly onto the module's internal pole and ladder shaft. The room directly across from the lock can be used as internal storage with an opaque door, but I've also used a back door in a full-sized bathroom to access the utility ladderway. That gives pole and ladder access to attic and basement utility corridors above and below the residential and service spaces, and those wrap around to another utility shaft which comes up/down to the bottom/top of the airlock, which needs to be long enough to house a suit dock for every dupe in the base and thus is way longer than standard common rooms get. Your main conductive thermal exchange is between your exterior airlock door and the outside atmosphere; a suit-dock lock built appropriately can automatically pump itself out to some arbitrary but very low pressure at intervals and shed most of the thermal mass taken on by that and also by the body-heat-temp suit exhaust. I set up an electrolyzer pair/deoxidizer equivalent for every four suits, and set up bridges to preferentially fill the Hab first and then replenish suit docks once that backs up. I've played around a ton with various layouts and decor approaches, and haven't ever pulled this off, but with a good enough initial plan I'm pretty sure one could make a Hab's internal transit shaft a Nature Preserve, as well.
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Mar 23, 2021 19:57
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