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mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Front springs seem quite high from everything I've seen; like starting points for non-Hoosier guide on the site is 800/500, or 1000/500 for Hoosiers. And seems consistent with the complaints about front end grip.

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Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I don't know how aero changes rake requirements, but rule of thumb has been 1/4" higher in the rear for NAs and NBs.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

mekilljoydammit posted:

Front springs seem quite high from everything I've seen; like starting points for non-Hoosier guide on the site is 800/500, or 1000/500 for Hoosiers. And seems consistent with the complaints about front end grip.

That is what I was thinking too, but Emilio didn't bat an eye when I asked about the setup on the car since it used to run with his S1 group. He just said I was driving the car wrong, which is probably at least partially true.

Phone posted:

I don't know how aero changes rake requirements, but rule of thumb has been 1/4" higher in the rear for NAs and NBs.

I don't either, but I'll give it a shot.

So it sounds like I should drop front springs to the 1000lb ones I have for now, wind the rear up about half an inch, then reevaluate at the next event? Maybe I need to go a lot softer like killjoy is saying.

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Mar 15, 2021

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
I mean it's a thing to try? I've never had to try to work with pre-NC ABS so it sounds like a lot of stuff has that as the root cause but well, it'll be a pain in the dick to put dual masters in, probably.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
I kind of just want to put MK60 ABS into it since its legal for TT4. I have a switch to disable the NB2 ABS, the pedal feels better with it off but it was difficult to feel lockup and tires are expensive.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




BlackMK4 posted:

~2400lb
1200lb / 550lb springs on Xida Race gen 2
4.25" f / 4.0" rear
Front bar is the 54106 1.25 x .188 Racing Beat on full soft
Rear bar is the stock non-adjustable Mazdaspeed bar
245 Toyo RRs on 15x10 6UL
64" Singular / APR rear wing run more or less flat
3" front splitter


I plan to cut a 4" splitter this week to be at the limit for rules, I just need to figure out how to tie the car down on my trailer since it is super close as-is.

I also have some spare 1000lb and 600lb springs, so I was thinking about throwing the 1000lb springs up front. I think we're supposed to shoot for 0 rake, so I could also try bringing the rear up a bit. It is just hard to feel what the car is doing, so maybe it is just too stiff? I think the PO basically copied Emilios setup on his orange S1 Supermiata in terms of suspension setup, but Emilio ended up something like 1400lb / 600lb and he is a way better driver than I am or ever will be. Maybe it is one of those things where the setup is fine as long as you know what the car should be doing and are confident, but someone new to the chassis might need to start softer?

I'm on the too much rear grip / too stiff front train. Try softer front springs, raise the rear / lower the front so you're at 1/4" rake, and the 4" splitter - I don't think you have the aero / tire load to need 1200lb front springs. Some combination of this will probably fix what you're describing. What are your camber numbers? My setup is as follows:

800/500 springs on xida race
Front bar - Tubular front 1.125" - .188 wall #54103 on full stiff I think, I'd have to check
Rear bar - supermiata on full soft
-3.2F / -2.8R
4" / 4.25" F/R ride height
245 RS4's on a 9" Wheel
No aero.

What settings are your shocks at? The xidas have a hugely noticeable difference across the range. My first autocross with them I had everything set up as above, set the f/r shocks to 10 clicks from soft for both, and promptly couldn't keep the rear end under control. Worked up to 12 from soft in the front, and down to 8 from soft in the rear, and it was a completely different experience.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

BlackMK4 posted:

I kind of just want to put MK60 ABS into it since its legal for TT4. I have a switch to disable the NB2 ABS, the pedal feels better with it off but it was difficult to feel lockup and tires are expensive.

RX-8 non-DSC ABS is probably going to be cheaper and good if you can find one - F1Y1-43-7A0. Was used in the World Challenge NC - no ice mode.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

mekilljoydammit posted:

RX-8 non-DSC ABS is probably going to be cheaper and good if you can find one - F1Y1-43-7A0. Was used in the World Challenge NC - no ice mode.

Unfortunately, MK60 is the only non-original ABS allowed in TT4 because NASA.

TrueChaos posted:

I'm on the too much rear grip / too stiff front train. Try softer front springs, raise the rear / lower the front so you're at 1/4" rake, and the 4" splitter - I don't think you have the aero / tire load to need 1200lb front springs. Some combination of this will probably fix what you're describing. What are your camber numbers? My setup is as follows:

800/500 springs on xida race
Front bar - Tubular front 1.125" - .188 wall #54103 on full stiff I think, I'd have to check
Rear bar - supermiata on full soft
-3.2F / -2.8R
4" / 4.25" F/R ride height
245 RS4's on a 9" Wheel
No aero.

What settings are your shocks at? The xidas have a hugely noticeable difference across the range. My first autocross with them I had everything set up as above, set the f/r shocks to 10 clicks from soft for both, and promptly couldn't keep the rear end under control. Worked up to 12 from soft in the front, and down to 8 from soft in the rear, and it was a completely different experience.

I need to get the thing aligned again before posting definitive alignment numbers. They are like yours, 10/10. I've mostly left them alone other than trying softer in the front yesterday, it is something I need to play with at an open Chuckwalla event to get anything meaningful out of it. You can't get on / off track with NASA TT, so no setup playing.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

BlackMK4 posted:

Unfortunately, MK60 is the only non-original ABS allowed in TT4 because NASA.

I'd laugh but I'm the one sitting here designing a tube chassis car around 15x7 wheels for SCCA.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Can you setup gear dependant boost with your ecu / the rules? Having it limit power in the lower gears could make them more useful.

Could also disconnect the front sway bar to try softer front life without the spring swap/alignment.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

honda whisperer posted:

Can you setup gear dependant boost with your ecu / the rules? Having it limit power in the lower gears could make them more useful.

Could also disconnect the front sway bar to try softer front life without the spring swap/alignment.

I can, the bar idea is one I should have thought of at the track to test. Damnit.

mekilljoydammit posted:

I'd laugh but I'm the one sitting here designing a tube chassis car around 15x7 wheels for SCCA.

Isn't it great????

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

BlackMK4 posted:

Isn't it great????

Devil you know maybe; I never did like the power to weight classing idea but it's easy to say that when NASA isn't really active around here anyway.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
PTW certainly is open to exploitation, my car is an example of it. I'm going to go browse through SCCA classing out of curiosity, we don't have any of their events locally so I've never thought about it.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

BlackMK4 posted:

PTW certainly is open to exploitation, my car is an example of it. I'm going to go browse through SCCA classing out of curiosity, we don't have any of their events locally so I've never thought about it.

For wheel to wheel, turbo Miata is going to be STU or T1 basically - STU is reasonable but probably will take restrictions you won't see in NASA, and T1 is a "here be monsters" class where one guy argued for SCCA to make a legal place to run his car and SCCA shrugged and said "sure"; other class stalwarts are things like 458 Challenge, GT3 Cup, etc etc cars.

SCCA rules are always written with the idea of "these are balanced to try to make it so that a crazy person cannot buy a national championships win"; like there's a lot of stuff where it'd probably be fine to reasonable people but over and over unreasonable people have shown up. There's a lot of establishment bias against turbos because, barring restrictors, there's no way for a volunteer tech group to police power levels that a clever person can't get around.

I grew up going to SCCA events so the history of how some of the classes got like they got makes a bit more sense, but it's pretty loving esoteric starting from scratch.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

BlackMK4 posted:

PTW certainly is open to exploitation, my car is an example of it. I'm going to go browse through SCCA classing out of curiosity, we don't have any of their events locally so I've never thought about it.

Bring it out to the scca solo and teach me how to be fast

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

BlackMK4 posted:

I can, the bar idea is one I should have thought of at the track to test. Damnit.


Isn't it great????

AI is weird because I felt weird posting that but also sometimes look for the wrench in my hand. Glad I did.

Also don't knock the 15x7s, tube frame or no. Cheap tire life forever.

got off on a technicality
Feb 7, 2007

oh dear

BlackMK4 posted:

Emilio ended up something like 1400lb / 600lb and he is a way better driver than I am or ever will be
So I know jack poo poo about Miatas, but Emilio was my instructor at my first ever DE at Streets of Willow 10+ years back. I only realized in hindsight how remarkable that was

The thing that stuck in my head, because he kept repeating it over and over again, was that he had no particular special talent as a driver. That everything he'd achieved, anyone could do, because he wasn't a genius who could invent new things. For him, it was a matter of learning to play the same notes over and over, consistently and accurately

The first practical thing he taught me (other than to sit bolt upright and way closer to the wheel than I'd been doing my whole life) was not to jump out and start loving with tire pressures the minute I got off the track. Instead, I was supposed to spend 15 minutes replaying the session in my head, while the memories were fresh. And to do the same before going on track: visualize every corner entry, every landmark, every apex, over and over. If I could keep up this practice session after session, week after week, for years and years, I had a shot at being competitive, as could anyone else

It remains one of the kindest, humblest things I've ever heard, with applications far beyond the track

Thanks for indulging my reminisces; I'm going to go listen to dubstep to feel like less of an old person

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

honda whisperer posted:


Also don't knock the 15x7s, tube frame or no. Cheap tire life forever.

Not when they're weird 10" wide hoosier cantilever slicks!

OK still only a bit over $300 per tire, not too bad.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

mekilljoydammit posted:

For wheel to wheel, turbo Miata is going to be STU or T1 basically - STU is reasonable but probably will take restrictions you won't see in NASA, and T1 is a "here be monsters" class where one guy argued for SCCA to make a legal place to run his car and SCCA shrugged and said "sure"; other class stalwarts are things like 458 Challenge, GT3 Cup, etc etc cars.

SCCA rules are always written with the idea of "these are balanced to try to make it so that a crazy person cannot buy a national championships win"; like there's a lot of stuff where it'd probably be fine to reasonable people but over and over unreasonable people have shown up. There's a lot of establishment bias against turbos because, barring restrictors, there's no way for a volunteer tech group to police power levels that a clever person can't get around.

I grew up going to SCCA events so the history of how some of the classes got like they got makes a bit more sense, but it's pretty loving esoteric starting from scratch.

The turbo power stuff is super nebulous to me with all of the other corrections you can set up in the ECU, so a restrictor makes sense to me. Classing does not look great for me over there :unsmith:

honda whisperer posted:

AI is weird because I felt weird posting that but also sometimes look for the wrench in my hand. Glad I did.

Also don't knock the 15x7s, tube frame or no. Cheap tire life forever.
Insert the just post thing here, it is always helpful

Virgil Vox posted:

Bring it out to the scca solo and teach me how to be fast


Cones scare me, do you run the events that they do at AMP and Marina or whatever?

got off on a technicality posted:

So I know jack poo poo about Miatas, but Emilio was my instructor at my first ever DE at Streets of Willow 10+ years back. I only realized in hindsight how remarkable that was

The thing that stuck in my head, because he kept repeating it over and over again, was that he had no particular special talent as a driver. That everything he'd achieved, anyone could do, because he wasn't a genius who could invent new things. For him, it was a matter of learning to play the same notes over and over, consistently and accurately

The first practical thing he taught me (other than to sit bolt upright and way closer to the wheel than I'd been doing my whole life) was not to jump out and start loving with tire pressures the minute I got off the track. Instead, I was supposed to spend 15 minutes replaying the session in my head, while the memories were fresh. And to do the same before going on track: visualize every corner entry, every landmark, every apex, over and over. If I could keep up this practice session after session, week after week, for years and years, I had a shot at being competitive, as could anyone else

It remains one of the kindest, humblest things I've ever heard, with applications far beyond the track

Thanks for indulging my reminisces; I'm going to go listen to dubstep to feel like less of an old person

I need to line up an event that he is at this year, I want to meet him.

mekilljoydammit posted:

Not when they're weird 10" wide hoosier cantilever slicks!

OK still only a bit over $300 per tire, not too bad.

I hear your wallet crying from here

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

BlackMK4 posted:

Cones scare me, do you run the events that they do at AMP and Marina or whatever?

yeah, I like AMP cause I'm starting to get competitive with some of the drivers there, Tucson solo is at musselman honda circuit now, the surface is pretty slick but the locals are fast.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

mekilljoydammit posted:

Not when they're weird 10" wide hoosier cantilever slicks!

OK still only a bit over $300 per tire, not too bad.

Oh yeah I'd forgotten about those.

Also you're 100% on the turbo stuff letting anyone who wants to cheat. Got an electronic boost controller, ecu, and a data logger that can do if/then outputs? If gps speed over 20 mph then 12v out. Set the ecu to see that 12v in switches to boost map 2 and you've got one power on track, a different one on the dyno.

Or just hide a toggle switch under the dash.

I never got the blatant cheating in amateur racing though. I can see it when it's a career thing. You need clorox sponsor money so you need some wins, makes sense. But when you're racing for the love of the game I don't understand how it would be satisfying to win knowing you'd gone past pushing the rules to the edge to full on deliberate bs.

Gigi Galli
Sep 19, 2003

and then the car turned in to fire

honda whisperer posted:

I never got the blatant cheating in amateur racing though. I can see it when it's a career thing. You need clorox sponsor money so you need some wins, makes sense. But when you're racing for the love of the game I don't understand how it would be satisfying to win knowing you'd gone past pushing the rules to the edge to full on deliberate bs.

When cheating in video games just isn’t expensive enough for your tastes.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
I mean, these days, canbus anyway but yeah it's basically unenforceable other than restrictors. Listening to people, it's sometimes gets to a "everyone else is cheating, I need to cheat more" if they get pushed to a certain point, but usually it's actually "this is within the letter of the rules". Like NASA PTW stuff - the rules say all this stuff about how it has to dyno as such, can't be driver adjustable... but don't say that maps can't change on their own.

Again why I kinda like the scca approach but I'm biased.

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


Crossposting from the iRacing thread because this one gets more traffic - hope that's okay.

This year I'm finally getting off my rear end (well, on my rear end but in a car) and decided to git good at driving fast, and since the season hasn't started yet, that means practicing in sims. I feel like I'm at the point where I'm no longer an imminent danger to those around me, but I was hoping the grizzled veterans could point out a few things to focus on first because I'm having serious ADD about it ("I should practice trail braking, no wait throttle control, no wait braking points, no wait...").

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.

KillHour posted:

Crossposting from the iRacing thread because this one gets more traffic - hope that's okay.

This year I'm finally getting off my rear end (well, on my rear end but in a car) and decided to git good at driving fast, and since the season hasn't started yet, that means practicing in sims. I feel like I'm at the point where I'm no longer an imminent danger to those around me, but I was hoping the grizzled veterans could point out a few things to focus on first because I'm having serious ADD about it ("I should practice trail braking, no wait throttle control, no wait braking points, no wait...").

Practice threshold braking with brake points first, when you have that down solid then learn trail braking

got off on a technicality
Feb 7, 2007

oh dear

KillHour posted:

Crossposting from the iRacing thread because this one gets more traffic - hope that's okay.

This year I'm finally getting off my rear end (well, on my rear end but in a car) and decided to git good at driving fast, and since the season hasn't started yet, that means practicing in sims. I feel like I'm at the point where I'm no longer an imminent danger to those around me, but I was hoping the grizzled veterans could point out a few things to focus on first because I'm having serious ADD about it ("I should practice trail braking, no wait throttle control, no wait braking points, no wait...").

Never tried a sim but my suggestion is similar -

Keep your eyes up and sight your marks (for braking, turn-in, apexes, exits) as far in advance as possible, then consistently hit them lap after lap. Making sure you're not having to do anything unnatural to hit them smoothly (eg cranking the wheel mid-corner because you turned in too late)

When you're really dialed-in on that you can work on moving back your braking points; just remember that exit speed >> entry speed for laptimes

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


Thanks for the tips. You know, I swore I posted the actual video I wanted feedback on but it turns out I'm an absolute idiot. Sorry about that!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBLkArqOwB0

FatCow
Apr 22, 2002
I MAP THE FUCK OUT OF PEOPLE
For this thread in car footage means more, at least to me.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Helmet assistance - I’ve got a track day next weekend and checked my old helmet. It’s pre 2005. Suggestions on where to order a helmet on short notice with good face padding?

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
You can buy cheap SA2020 helmets on amazon and get it in a couple days. I think mine is a Zamp? Seems similar to the racequip stuff. There are probably some not-lovely options too.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Summit and jegs seem to ship really fast.

Option b would be if there's a shop near you for pick up.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Cota is hard on the brakes, kids



Also, don't be a dumbass like me and run your brake pads all the way down to the backing plate and then some

SlapActionJackson fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Mar 21, 2021

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Is that the leftover backing plate or what? :lol:

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

Piston tops got hot enough to deform.

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.
drat I've done some damage to brake pad plates before, especially at COTA, but that's ridiculous

I'm surprised you didn't notice a loss of stopping power

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

I did, that's what got me to come in and swap pads. But the falloff in performance wasn't as big as you would think looking at those inboard pistons. Shout out to Motul - the brake fluid gave no fucks while all of this was going down.

Frond
Mar 12, 2018

SlapActionJackson posted:

Cota is hard on the brakes, kids



Also, don't be a dumbass like me and run your brake pads all the way down to the backing plate and then some

Whoa.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
Any of you guys tracking a 6th gen SS 1LE Camaro? From what I gather all I need for my summer plans of a handful of HPDE is a brake fluid flush (SRF) and an alignment, but if anyone has any thoughts on other prep I should look at I am interested. Its a 2017 with about 7500 miles. Stock wheels and supercar 3 tires.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
I mentioned my friend that runs one in TT3 locally, he reckons the SC3R is a basically cheater tire and gets good life out of them too.

He is bone stock other than GC camber plates up front set to -3.5 camber, 7.25-ish caster, and 0 toe. He is looking into adjustable rear control arms since he can't get enough camber out of stock for even wear, I think he is around -2 degrees there.

Anyway, his comment was "Honestly just do high temp brake fluid and max the factory camber out... will be good for a bit as he learns the car."

e: Also,
"My brakes will get a bit spongy after 2-3 laps of really full send but they never really go away. Just one lap at 7/10ths or so and they're good to go for another 2-3 laps at full send."

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Mar 22, 2021

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PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

BlackMK4 posted:

I mentioned my friend that runs one in TT3 locally, he reckons the SC3R is a basically cheater tire and gets good life out of them too.

He is bone stock other than GC camber plates up front set to -3.5 camber, 7.25-ish caster, and 0 toe. He is looking into adjustable rear control arms since he can't get enough camber out of stock for even wear, I think he is around -2 degrees there.

Anyway, his comment was "Honestly just do high temp brake fluid and max the factory camber out... will be good for a bit as he learns the car."

Nice, thanks for asking him. That seems to be the common wisdom, just alignment and fluid needed 'til you get serious. The supercar 3R is supposedly 100tw, but guys get about 4 trackdays out of them at the most, so it might be 100tw like the RE71R is 200tw - numbers don't matter when nobody polices them I guess. I am on a set of the stock Supercar 3 (non-R's) which should be fine for a while.

Edit - did he say what pad he runs?

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