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Coydog posted:Replace all fluids with Johnson'sŪ Baby Oil to be safe. What bike is it? I think you can use that in a clutch that takes mineral oil.
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Mar 15, 2021 23:16
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My Hawk still has old Pilot Activs on it because an old grognard scared me out of installing radials on it. However I would kinda really like to get some modern rubber technology on it, subtle handling differences be damned. I've got proper suspension on it and I don't race so what's the difference anyway. I just want something a bit stickier and good in the wet. The Hawk GT forums recommend 110/70 and 160/60, which is a little bit off from the stock 110/80 and 150/70 but they all say it's fine. It looks like I can get Pilot Road 5 or Diablo Rosso III. I think everyone likes the Pilots except Slavvy who likes the Pirellis. Any opinions?
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Mar 15, 2021 23:17
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Depends on what mileage you want vs how eager you want them to turn. The equivalent of pirellis vs road 5 is the angel gt 2. Diablo rosso 3 is much more sport oriented than the road 5. Michelins road sport tire is the power 5. I've run all these 4 on my fz6. Milage more to less Road 5 - Angel gt 2 - Diablo rosso 3 - Power 5. Eager to turn more to less Diablo rosso 3 - power 5 - angel gt 2 - road 5. Wet grip has been excellent on all 4. Cold grip as in prolonged rides at 7c /45f and less I've only really done on the angel gt 2 and road 5. both where very good. There is also the new Diablo Rosso iv that is out this year with more lessons learned from the gt 2. https://www.pirelli.com/tires/en-us/motorcycle/all-tires/sheet/diablo-rosso-IV If you want to really try what a good turn happy new tech tyre can do id get some diablo iv or angel gt 2 tires depending on what milage you want. Supradog fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Mar 15, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 23:35
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^^^sadly the vintage Japanese wheel sizes lock him out of angel GT'sSagebrush posted:My Hawk still has old Pilot Activs on it because an old grognard scared me out of installing radials on it. However I would kinda really like to get some modern rubber technology on it, subtle handling differences be damned. I've got proper suspension on it and I don't race so what's the difference anyway. I just want something a bit stickier and good in the wet. Ok let's break this down: 1. You need to go faster in the corners. I know this because you would've crashed by now if you were going fast enough on those tyres holy poo poo 2. Pilot activs are adequate for like a Hyosung 250, I can't imagine what they're like on a big bike but I'm gonna assume terrible. I had one on the front of my red 3. Pilot roads are totally fine wrt their objective qualities if you want a good tyre, they are long lasting and have excellent wet grip and are generally just the best commuter tyre there is. The problem is the truck-like profile, total absence of feel, and tendency to get really nervous near the edges when you put some heat into them. For a lot of people this is not a problem or just never comes up, unfortunately I enjoy corners so they feel terrible to me. 4. Rosso iii's are great tyres but they'll be vapor inside of 10,000km, I think in those awkward older Japanese bike sizes, bridgestone bt45 or similar is the way to go. I'd be inclined to run a 120 on the front; 99% of the time 110 bikes can be taken to 120 with little to no difference (at most you might need to put an extra notch of preload on the rear or drop the forks 5mm) and it opens you up to a much better selection. The bigger rear will be totally fine and you likely won't notice the difference.
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Mar 15, 2021 23:41
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Sagebrush posted:My Hawk still has old Pilot Activs on it because an old grognard scared me out of installing radials on it. However I would kinda really like to get some modern rubber technology on it, subtle handling differences be damned. I've got proper suspension on it and I don't race so what's the difference anyway. I just want something a bit stickier and good in the wet. Those sizes will fit, a 170 *might* fit but you'd be pulling the exhaust off. A 120 front would make your life easier but not a good idea on the stock rim (CBR F2 rim is an exact drop in fit using only the left rotor and fits a 120). Continental Conti-Motions are in that size and are "OK". More of a sport touring tire but the Hawk doesn't really need super sticky rubber.
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Mar 15, 2021 23:54
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Slavvy posted:2. Pilot activs are adequate for like a Hyosung 250, I can't imagine what they're like on a big bike but I'm gonna assume terrible. I had one on the front of my red I'm running activs on a w800 and honestly they feel hella sketchy compared with the stock Dunlop TT100s. I'll probably go back to those at the next change. What I will say in favour of activs is they're very hard wearing, which is what I wanted when I got them because I was doing a ton of boring motorway miles and nothing else. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 00:02
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Gorson posted:Those sizes will fit, a 170 *might* fit but you'd be pulling the exhaust off. A 120 front would make your life easier but not a good idea on the stock rim (CBR F2 rim is an exact drop in fit using only the left rotor and fits a 120). Continental Conti-Motions are in that size and are "OK". More of a sport touring tire but the Hawk doesn't really need super sticky rubber.  akshully contimotions are made from a proprietary mix of granite and aged oak. They work fine but holy poo poo, they're like a cheap way to get uprated springs.Why do you reckon stock rim + 120 = bad? Though an f2 rim would be the proper way, and I imagine noticeably improves steering by virtue of being lighter. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 00:04
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Slavvy posted:1. You need to go faster in the corners. I know this because you would've crashed by now if you were going fast enough on those tyres holy poo poo  I just like to go out for a nice ride. Back before covid I was out riding and for twenty miles hung just behind a guy on a Z1000 who loving sucked in the corners and that's about all the ~killing~ I need to do.I have noticed that these tires start to feel skeevy under heavy braking though. Idk, last time I got new tires, first new set for the Hawk since I bought it, I got PR4s (hawk forum recommendation) and the grognard tire guy basically yelled at me and said "those INTERNET TROLLS don't know what they're TALKING ABOUT" and ranted about how old bikes aren't designed for radials and told me to return them and get these PROPER ones instead. So I did, assuming he knew what he was talking about. Slavvy posted:3. Pilot roads are totally fine wrt their objective qualities if you want a good tyre, they are long lasting and have excellent wet grip and are generally just the best commuter tyre there is. The problem is the truck-like profile, total absence of feel, and tendency to get really nervous near the edges when you put some heat into them. For a lot of people this is not a problem or just never comes up, unfortunately I enjoy corners so they feel terrible to me. Everybody on the Hawk forums is very clear that you can't put a 120 on the front without loving up the feel (in fact even grognard agreed on that one) so I do trust that. They also say that the 160 rear is either the same or better overall, no problems there. The 160/60 should be basically equivalent to the 150/70 in terms of ride height etc and losing 10 on the front profile would lower it a touch but that doesn't seem that big a deal. Looks like I can get Bridgestone BT46s in the stock sizes, though, so that's nice. I assume you're gonna say that they're leagues beyond the Activs, which is great. Clearly for my kind of riding I don't need the Rossos. The BT46 are bias-ply so idk if that's better or worse in this scenario. How do the BT46 compare in general performance, and particularly wet grip, to the PR5? Slavvy posted:Though an f2 rim would be the proper way, and I imagine noticeably improves steering by virtue of being lighter. I refuse to sully the look of the bike with mismatched rims. Both my car and my motorcycle have rad as hell 90s tri-spoke alloys and I'm bringing them back Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 00:07
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Slavvy posted:
Oh I only had a thousand miles or so and found them "adequate" but didn't push them that hard. It's a cheap option. 120 on the Hawk rim isn't so much bad it's just a very narrow wheel. One of those things where it would probably be fine. It's been done....but for me it's just one more thing in the back of my mind. F2 wheel is also a boat anchor, about the same as the Hawk IIRC. F3 is lighter but doesn't fit without mods.
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Mar 16, 2021 00:28
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I really couldn't tell you what they were like in the wet because the bikes I've ridden that had those fitted were so different to the bikes that had pr's fitted, even the ones I've owned. A big long lazy zrx or a calm, quick turning hornet 900 is pretty confidence inspiring in the rain and the tyres worked well. But I can't recall riding my bt-shod nc30 or the various two strokes in the rain without making GBS threads my pants long before tyres became relevant. I can tell you PR wet grip gets me rave anecdotal feedback from people of unknown riding ability with mostly normal modern bikes, whereas bridgestone seem to be more the go-to for people with special interest japanese bikes, like yours effectively now is. In the dry they are much better, when you get them nice and warm they seem to noticeably step up in feel and directness like a sport tyre. I firmly believe objective tyre analysis doesn't exist past a certain point but I can tell you in all the gross measurable ways they are better than roads. In a feel and confidence sense they feel like a higher category of tyre to me, a 70kg internet person who thinks squishy triangular pirellis are gifts from allah. The last set of battleaxes I stuck on were on a first gen gixxer 750; they made the bike feel like a living, reptilian thing slithering menacingly over the bumps, scrabbling it's claws with a howl on acceleration, a nice confirmation that chassis feel and confidence are independent of era and technology, more proof those old bikes can be real weapons when treated right. Gorson posted:Oh I only had a thousand miles or so and found them "adequate" but didn't push them that hard. It's a cheap option. There does seem to be a lot of variation in what is considered a 110 fitment rim by the manufacturers; I know you can stick 120's on the front of Hyosungs and Slavvy fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 00:29
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gently caress, quote is not edit
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Mar 16, 2021 00:31
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I always kinda preferred the 110 on the Hawk anyway. It just feels right for the bike. 120 is for bling and tire choice.
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Mar 16, 2021 00:37
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Slavvy posted:The last set of battleaxes I stuck on were on a first gen gixxer 750; they made the bike feel like a living, reptilian thing slithering menacingly over the bumps, scrabbling it's claws with a howl on acceleration Please give me the lizard bike, yes. Sounds like I should go with the Bridgestones
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Mar 16, 2021 01:05
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PR3 are my fav tire ever and I put them on every bike that will take them, so I'm biased. I have them on the hawk and they are, of course, perfect. I recommend them, but I guess you can't get the 3's anymore. I hear 4 is better?Slavvy posted:
I disagree with you on your last points. They have a very predictable profile that makes pushing it a less sketch affair. I had em on the 690 and I was a total degenerate every time I rode it. Took the new tires to the edges the first mountain run I had with them no problem. What would you recommend with equal wet grip and longevity, but with a tippyer profile? edit: It's weird that you recommend battleaxes. I found them to have the trucklike profile and absolute garbage grip at the edges that you accuse the roads of having. Putting PR3 on the bike was a revelation. Coydog fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 17:36
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has anyone actually put a hole through a stock skid plate and into a crankcase
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Mar 16, 2021 17:56
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Coydog posted:PR3 are my fav tire ever and I put them on every bike that will take them, so I'm biased. I have them on the hawk and they are, of course, perfect. I recommend them, but I guess you can't get the 3's anymore. I hear 4 is better? There's like five different tyres with the title battleaxe and some of them aren't great yeah. The best street tyre in existence is the angel gt. Idk what the precise numbers are compared to the pr4, I suspect close enough that it comes down to bike, road and riding style. But they are a million billion times sportier and more feelsome.
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Mar 16, 2021 18:39
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Sagebrush posted:My Hawk still has old Pilot Activs on it because an old grognard scared me out of installing radials on it. However I would kinda really like to get some modern rubber technology on it, subtle handling differences be damned. I've got proper suspension on it and I don't race so what's the difference anyway. I just want something a bit stickier and good in the wet. Yuns fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 19:14
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I have Michelin Pilot Road 3/4 on my SV650, and i think i'm gonna switch to a different brand as soon as these are worn out. While they indeed offer great traction in the rain, i also recognize that my bike is less flickable than most other bikes i've tried, and i'm starting to wonder if it's the tires. It's a light bike with a good chassis, or so they say... The PR is very forgiving. It's easy to feel when you're pushing them too hard, and so far i've never come close to a crash in such cases. Also, despite most roads being straight as an arrow here, they wear out nice and evenly. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 22:42
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I had a low-speed spill on some dirt last week, and now my sidestand doesn't go up fully. I've wiggled everything, but can't seem to work out why it doesn't go up. There's enough play in there to do it, but it doesn't go. Bad springs? Something's bent? I'm clueless.     p.s. apologies for the dirt. All the jetwashes in my area are broken. yay.
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Mar 16, 2021 23:06
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Dunlop Q3+ have great traction and work surprisingly well in the rain. Most of the other Daytona riders can use them up until B group at the track, and an instructor said he has used them in A group but I think that would be more of the exception than the norm. My bike came with Pirelli SuperCorsas and while I didn't have the skills at the time to comment on how their dry traction compares to Q3+, the SuperCorsa's wet traction was not good and not fun in the rain.
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Mar 16, 2021 23:11
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I got my new tires mounted and balanced and they even seem to be holding air.  I also chewed the gently caress out of my pretty orange wheel paint in several places. How much of that is inexperience, how much is cheap factory paint, and how much is inevitable with the tire-irons-and-knees method?Also is it worth trying to find some paint to touch them up?
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Mar 18, 2021 02:47
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You get little plastic rim guard thingies and lever on those, they're designed for that very thing.
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Mar 18, 2021 05:40
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Slavvy posted:You get little plastic rim guard thingies and lever on those, they're designed for that very thing. I've got those but I still hosed up the paint. e: I did much better on the second wheel but there were still spots where I couldn't wedge the rim guards in properly.
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Mar 18, 2021 05:42
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Ok are you using the levers flat on? How thick are the plastic thingies? I don't understand about wedging them in, normally when you get to the last third you place them strategically before you start the last section, then the only hard part becomes getting them out. A general tip if you're having to lever super hard and dinging the rims through pressure alone: make sure the sidewall opposite to where you're levering is collapsed down into the trough in the middle of the wheel. If you're levering super hard you're pretty much trying to stretch the actual diameter of the tyre bigger aka loving up, the levers are for flipping it over the rim while it's offset because part of it is in the trough.
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Mar 18, 2021 06:14
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Its mostly inexperience. No, its not worth getting the rims repainted unless you really want to in which case its your money.
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Mar 18, 2021 13:52
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Even after I have a garage and a lift, I'm still not going to do tyres myself. gently caress that.
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Mar 18, 2021 13:57
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FBS posted:I got my new tires mounted and balanced and they even seem to be holding air. If you care about it just get a little brush and some matched touch up paint from the old-guys paint store. The one where you walk in and they are instantly sick of your poo poo.
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Mar 18, 2021 14:51
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Steakandchips posted:Even after I have a garage and a lift, I'm still not going to do tyres myself. gently caress that. They really do get a lot easier after you practice a bit. I assume using a tire changing stand makes the job significantly easier as well.
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Mar 18, 2021 14:53
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Hey Slavvy, you mentioned earlier this week you had a Super Sherpa at one point. My first bike was a Sherpa; there's an issue I had with it that I've been wondering about for years. What was the deal with it stalling out under hard braking? Was that a regular problem with Sherpas or was that just me? It was definitely repeatable. Hit the brakes hard, clutch in and come to a complete stop... Engine falls on its face, so restart the bike. I figured either the carb wasn't set up right (previous owner lived literally in the mountains, altitude 1500 ft higher than where I live - shouldn't be that much of a difference but maybe it was jetted to go a bunch higher) or the fuel pickup in the tank might have been in a bad location. (The PO was also the husband of the lady who ran the library in the entirely different little mining town I grew up in... I was a dork and I spent a lot of time in that library, so that was a neat coincidence.)
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Mar 18, 2021 17:55
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Usually hard brake stalling is the main or pilot jet sucking air as all the fuel sloshes to the front of the carb. That can be improper baffling in the bowl which I would not expect on a Japanese bike running a Japanese carb Or, improperly adjusted fuel inlet needle not letting the bowl fill enough.
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Mar 18, 2021 18:17
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Usually hard brake stalling is the main or pilot jet sucking air as all the fuel sloshes to the front of the carb. Could also be incorrect float height, if adjustable. If a pilot jet is clogged it can stall on deceleration, but if that's the case you should have idle issues.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:10
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Sherpa has a lean pilot jet from stock, that + float and needle shenanigans for high altitude will give you a stall like that. Or just things being hosed in the carb in general.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:23
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All this talk of carbs just makes me appreciate fuel injection more.builds character posted:They really do get a lot easier after you practice a bit. I assume using a tire changing stand makes the job significantly easier as well. I loathe changing bicycle tyres, I'm not going to do motorbike tyres. Flat no. 
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Mar 18, 2021 21:04
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Cool, thanks! For clarity I haven't seen that bike since like 2008 and certainly didn't have the technical knowledge to start deciphering carb issues at the time, so I just lived with it until I sold it on to the next fellow.
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Mar 18, 2021 21:56
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Inevitable springtime post, but between lockdowns, weather, and other stuff I've not ridden my bike since November. As I had an inkling this would be the case I topped the tank off last time I rode it, and it's been outdoors but covered (and on a trickle charger) since then. It's not really got below freezing that much, only a few days over that time, so I don't really need to do more than my normal Big Wash stuff (tyre pressures, clean and lube chain, check and clean brakes, switches, etc) before riding it, do I? Obviously I'll take it out for an hour or two to make sure everything gets a proper shakedown.
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Mar 21, 2021 14:22
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Inevitable springtime post, but between lockdowns, weather, and other stuff I've not ridden my bike since November. As I had an inkling this would be the case I topped the tank off last time I rode it, and it's been outdoors but covered (and on a trickle charger) since then. Nah, just go for a long enough ride to burn the old gas then fill it up with fresh premium and ride back.
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Mar 21, 2021 14:56
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Finger Prince posted:Nah, just go for a long enough ride to burn the old gas then fill it up with fresh premium and ride back. I am in the same boat as goddamnedtwisto regarding my Honda 125 which hasn't been ridden since November, and has been on a charger and under a cover outside since then, aaaaand it has a full tank of petrol. A ride long enough to burn off the entire tank of petrol would get me to the middle of Wales at least (I'm in Central Scotland).
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Mar 21, 2021 21:56
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I do not see the problem with that.
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Mar 21, 2021 22:07
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I do kinda miss the 300 mile tank on my old cbr125. Paying maybe a tenner once a month to fill the tank was great. Also you should literally do that trip Steak, it'll wipe you out but Scotland to Wales via the fiddliest roads you can find would make a hell of a pretty tour. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Mar 21, 2021 |
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Mar 21, 2021 22:07
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Heh, the Harley is so much more thirsty in comparison with the Honda. I think I paid more for petrol for the Harley in the first 2 or 3 weeks I had it than I did for the Honda in an entire year. Guess 15 times the displacement has an impact on fuel economy! I really do want to do a Scotland to Wales trip, it'd be awesome. Not doing it on the Honda though, that just needs to be sold as soon as possible. I'm not putting any more miles on it (beyond just getting it to somewhere nice and taking some nicer pictures of it). I'll be needing a 2nd bike once the Honda goes. No decision yet, but in the running are: Ducati Monster 696 Ducati Monster 796 Triumph Street Triple 675 Triumph Street Triple 765 Ninja 400 BMW R9T (the regular one, not the Pure) SV650
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Mar 21, 2021 22:20
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