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 Would a silicone gasket maker like this be roughly analogous to Hondabond? For dealing a gearbox and possibly valve cover. That poo poo is impossible to get unfortunately and I'm not enough of a Honda fanboy to import it or go through the stealership
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Mar 24, 2021 17:20
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I don't know what that stuff is specifically, but Hondabond is anaerobic, which is likely important to whatever you're looking at it being specified for use. The closes equiv that I know is "the right stuff" gray.
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Mar 24, 2021 17:26
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Is it normal for a car to grind a little bit going into reverse? I thought my clutch was going but my brother says it's normal. I know reverse doesn't have a synchro but that shouldn't matter if you're at a stop, no?
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Mar 24, 2021 17:40
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It's normal for it to make a bit of a clunk as the dogs line up because it's unsynchronized, yes, but I wouldn't say that grinding is normal. Is there a difference in engine RPM between having the car in neutral and having it in gear with the clutch depressed? If so, that would indicate that the clutch is dragging a bit and yeah that could cause grinding when shifting.
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Mar 24, 2021 17:49
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If the trans is somewhat well used it's fairly normal, long as you can get it into gear on the first shot I don't see an issue. Maybe change the fluid and look for glitter on the drain plug magnet while it's out?
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Mar 24, 2021 17:59
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Motronic posted:I don't know what that stuff is specifically, but Hondabond is anaerobic, which is likely important to whatever you're looking at it being specified for use. The closes equiv that I know is "the right stuff" gray. I couldn't find any more information other than what's on the package there but I'm guessing it's more like RTV stuff. I think anaerobic is the crucial part to look for then, thanks.
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Mar 24, 2021 18:17
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DildenAnders posted:Is it normal for a car to grind a little bit going into reverse? I thought my clutch was going but my brother says it's normal. I know reverse doesn't have a synchro but that shouldn't matter if you're at a stop, no? Without a synchro, and if you're just shoving the clutch in, then throwing it into reverse? Absolutely. If you hold the clutch down for a good 5 seconds, THEN shift into reverse, you'll probably still get a slight clunk. Easy workaround: put in the clutch, shift into 1st, then shift into reverse - 1st usually has a synchro, doing this will stop the internals and let you shift into reverse easily. Even on a car with a synchro on reverse, you're going to feel the car jerk a bit going into reverse unless you give the transmission internals time to spin down first. You're essentially forcing everything to suddenly spin in the opposite direction at a few hundred RPM if you're going straight from idling in neutral to clutch in to reverse all in one fell swoop - there's a bit of inertia from 100 lbs of gears spinning.
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Mar 24, 2021 21:05
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STR posted:Without a synchro, and if you're just shoving the clutch in, then throwing it into reverse? Absolutely. If you hold the clutch down for a good 5 seconds, THEN shift into reverse, you'll probably still get a slight clunk. Bingo. Do this. Some gearboxes are pretty fragile about the reverse idler, hawing on it will break it.
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Mar 24, 2021 21:39
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Putting it into neutral and letting the clutch out then pushing it back in has always worked for me, dunno if that's any better or easier. IIRC you have a Mazda 3 which is what I drove for ~14 years and it did that a fair amount.
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Mar 24, 2021 21:52
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The clinking of tie down rings and the sound of grinding into reverse was the sound that my dad was home. Is that too poetic for the stupid questions thread?
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Mar 24, 2021 22:03
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drat didn't expect such a response! I'll stop worrying about it but thanks for all the feedback. I'll definitely put it in first before putting it into reverse, especially if a fellow Mazda 3 owner recommends it.
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Mar 24, 2021 22:36
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StormDrain posted:The clinking of tie down rings and the sound of grinding into reverse was the sound that my dad was home. Is that too poetic for the stupid questions thread? We need more poetry, not less. Beautiful.
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Mar 24, 2021 23:20
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In unrelated news, I opened up my old WJ for the first time in months (radiator went, got a new car so hasn't been a priority) and when I got inside, I was blasted with the nauseating, nostalgic smell of old gear oil. I'm going to have to get rid of that hunk of junk, but god drat did that car grow on me if it turned gear oil smell into something I didn't know I missed. I'm not crying, it's just raining out. (Please don't ask why it smells like gear oil inside. It's a long story involving an axle, a Ford Explorer missing an axle, and an older brother.)
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Mar 25, 2021 00:10
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mobby_6kl posted:I couldn't find any more information other than what's on the package there but I'm guessing it's more like RTV stuff. I think anaerobic is the crucial part to look for then, thanks. Welp I can't find anything aat all available locally. Not Permatexm or 3M anaerobic stuff at all  so Hondabond might be my only option, that's ridiculous, how does everyone else repair gearboxes.Yes I think that's the medical definition vvv mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 00:34
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Sagebrush posted:So yeah I can appreciate that some people may not be able to grasp the three-dimensional transformation required to understand unscrewing an upside down oil filter and have to literally put their face on the ground in front of it. I don't need excuses I'm just a moron.
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Mar 25, 2021 00:36
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I'm pulling the transmission on my brz for some clutch work. I have all of the bolts removed, nothing else is holding the transmission in, but I just can't get it separated from the engine. I've put a crowbar in-between the transmission and the steering rack for leverage but the fucker just won't budge. I'm 100% sure I have all of the bolts out, if there something else I should try? I've read through a handful of DIYs for this and nobody seems to have this kind of trouble separating it from the engine.
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Mar 25, 2021 01:57
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Sagebrush posted:Some people apparently don't have the ability to do this. Like if I say "picture a rose," you can probably picture a rose in your head. Now I say okay, turn it over and look at the cut bottom of the stem. Now look closely at one of the thorns. Now flip it to look at the top and open up the petals and look inside. Now slow slowly spin it 360 degrees. Hi, that's me. Most of this is accurate, but proprioceptive orientation is way stronger for me. Tighten/loosen is intuitive for me even when I have my offhand crammed up behind an instrument panel while hanging upside-down. And the answer is to hammer the screwdriver through the filter to get it off and never use anything but hands to put one back on.
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Mar 25, 2021 02:53
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm pulling the transmission on my brz for some clutch work. I have all of the bolts removed, nothing else is holding the transmission in, but I just can't get it separated from the engine. I've put a crowbar in-between the transmission and the steering rack for leverage but the fucker just won't budge. I'm 100% sure I have all of the bolts out, if there something else I should try? I've read through a handful of DIYs for this and nobody seems to have this kind of trouble separating it from the engine. Listen, this isn't what you want to hear, but... You don't have all the bolts out.
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Mar 25, 2021 02:59
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I lucked into a deal yesterday where I was able to get a great deal on a 2021 Lunar Rock 4Runner TRD PRO from a local dealership. Caveat being that it had 1,100 miles, and was the General Managers Demo or whatever. He had been driving it for 3 weeks. These things are very hard to find. Everything about this truck is perfect and I can't believe I was able to get such a hard to find vehicle locally. It wasn't even for sale when I showed up. My question: Previous driver had a DRAKKAR NOIR AUTO AIR FRESHENER in the cup holder near the center console and my god does that smell permeate EVERYTHING. I've had the car for two days and I can smell it on myself for hours after. I'm really sensitive to smells, so I need to kill this ASAP. Any ideas on how I can rid my new vehicle of this horrid stench? Will it go away over time? 
arbybaconator fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 06:17
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Ozone generator, if you don't live in California. Liberal use of Febreze and Arm&Hammer Pet Odor Remover if you do. The last is my go-to and it's worked quite well.
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Mar 25, 2021 06:20
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I see no front plate so I assume not-California, then the answer is, as already stated, ozone generator. It will destroy 25+ year old smoker's smell even if that might take two or three applications and I am positive if will annihilate a month or two of cologne.
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Mar 25, 2021 07:02
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Thank y'all. I'm in Texas. Definitely going to look into buying one of these ASAP. Looks like you can get one for $50 on Amazon.
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Mar 25, 2021 07:18
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm pulling the transmission on my brz for some clutch work. You likely don't have all the bolts out as was mentioned. Otherwise a neat trick is to let the parts do the work for you and pump the clutch to help separate the trans from the block.
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Mar 25, 2021 11:56
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mobby_6kl posted:Welp I can't find anything aat all available locally. Not Permatexm or 3M anaerobic stuff at all Not even this permatex stuff? https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/anaerobic-gasket-makers-flange-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us This is what's in my local parts stores. And how everyone else repairs gearboxes depends. A shop that does this will have the right poo poo on hand. As far as home gamers, you know the variable quality there. I'd say a good majority would slap some blue goo on there than call it a day. And that will work......for a while. I'd say you're better off ordering the right thing and doing it right so it lasts.
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Mar 25, 2021 12:36
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mobby's in the EU, I think?
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Mar 25, 2021 12:39
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:mobby's in the EU, I think? Ahhh, that would explain the stocking differences for sure.
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Mar 25, 2021 12:40
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Beach Bum posted:Listen, this isn't what you want to hear, but... Bajaha posted:You likely don't have all the bolts out as was mentioned. Otherwise a neat trick is to let the parts do the work for you and pump the clutch to help separate the trans from the block. I dunno, the DIY guides with pictures all show 6 bolts and 2 nuts, and that's exactly what I've removed. I can run my hand around the whole assembly and I can't feel any other bolts. I'll get my borescope out and see if that helps any. I'll report back when I find the last bolt
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Mar 25, 2021 12:59
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Check around the starter, which should be completely removable by hand at this point, speaking of which. If it's like the EJ family, the starter has a bolt or nut and also one of the bellhousing bolts through it. If you just removed the starter bolt or nut that might make you think you have them all out. Sometimes the alignment dowels get kind of sticky on those, too. Oh, if the bolts didn't come out by hand after being loosened, check the tips for galled aluminum jammed in the threads, and run a tap through the bolt holes in the block to clean the threads up, IIRC it is m10x1.25. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 15:47
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Is it possible that on a vehicle with multi link rear suspension that bushings binding up can cause the vehicle to sit lower, instead of higher? 2006 Mazda RX-8 (Near as makes little difference same subframes and suspension as a NC Miata) I replaced the shocks with Bilstein B6's 30k km ago and and the springs with H&R sport springs 10k km ago. This past year, I tackled ALL of the bushings. Now the rear of the vehicle sits lower than the front. Did I screw up by tightening all of the rear suspension links with the back end unloaded? I would expect the bushings to bind up causing the back end to sit higher, not lower due to this. The FSM makes no mention of any special procedures or order of operation when re-assembling the rear suspension. At least as far as I could find. Is it worth it to build tire blocks to get the back half in the air enough to crawl underneath and loosen everything up and let it re-settle? Am I missing something else?
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Mar 25, 2021 16:42
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You did screw up since that's a great way to destroy new bushings, but your logic is sound, it should have made it taller until the rubber tore loose from the bushing sleeves at which point it would go back to normal. If you used poly, what you did is fine.
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Mar 25, 2021 16:59
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kastein posted:If you used poly, what you did is fine. Right, forgot that piece of info. All new bushings were polyurethane and were greased as much as I could.
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Mar 25, 2021 17:03
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kastein posted:Check around the starter, which should be completely removable by hand at this point, speaking of which. If it's like the EJ family, the starter has a bolt or nut and also one of the bellhousing bolts through it. If you just removed the starter bolt or nut that might make you think you have them all out. There were two bolts for the starter that went all the way through into the engine. All of the bolts came out easily by hand once they were loosened. I ran my borescope all around the engine but I can't find anything else holding it in. Might be the alignment dowels, they look like they have a little rust on them but I can't see how they could be holding all of this together considering the amount of force I'm using.
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Mar 25, 2021 17:42
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two_beer_bishes posted:There were two bolts for the starter that went all the way through into the engine. All of the bolts came out easily by hand once they were loosened. I ran my borescope all around the engine but I can't find anything else holding it in. Might be the alignment dowels, they look like they have a little rust on them but I can't see how they could be holding all of this together considering the amount of force I'm using. If your not backing the transmission out perfectly level, those dowels will bind and hold it in place. As suggested above, try using the clutch hydraulics to help separate it. It should push the bell housing apart parallel to the engine negating the dowel bind.
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Mar 25, 2021 17:59
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McTinkerson posted:If your not backing the transmission out perfectly level, those dowels will bind and hold it in place. I tried that too, didn't do anything
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Mar 25, 2021 18:17
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Any place you can get a block of wood on and use some gentle hammer persuasion?
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Mar 25, 2021 18:33
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C-Bangin' it 
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Got a used bumper for Brokeback. It's in better shape in that it's not cracked or sagging, but the paint is a little more beat. If I scuff it up myself and just ask a body shop to do a quick respray before I put it on the car (matching the current color, not giving a poo poo about filling in scratches, dings, and the like), how much would that likely cost, with clear? The paint on the rest of the car is in really good shape. I'm not worried about blending it or anything (esp since it's two tone; the rest of the two done doesn't resume until the doors). The replacement kinda looks like it's been repainted at some point anyway.  e: or should I just give up on that idea and buy an actual new cover if I want it painted? The bumper covers are the major cosmetic issues on this car, followed by the damage it had from being sideswiped at some point (mostly the RR 1/4 panel). If it's cost-prohibitive, I'll just slap this one on and call it a day. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 21:26
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With that level of paint damage I think you'd be in for a lot more work than "scuff it up" for those marks to not be nearly as visible through the paint as they are now.
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Mar 25, 2021 21:55
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That's what I was thinking - even thinking that just slapping paint on it would make it look even worse. Just gonna slap it on tomorrow morning then, and deal with finding some fog lights later. At least it's not sagging, cracked, split, etc, and I can finally aim my one working foglight up enough to not point straight down. I just had some wishful thinking since I only paid $35 for it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 22:01
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STR posted:Got a used bumper for Brokeback. It's in better shape in that it's not cracked or sagging, but the paint is a little more beat. New is an idea, but those panels are a crapshoot as far as fit goes. You might be able to fix this one up a for less really if youre concerned how it will turn out as is. I think Id send some pictures of the bumper you picked up and see what some local shops had to say. Maybe theres a home gamer on CraigsList too. I remember hearing everything from GTFO to $500-$1000 when I was getting quotes on fixing my Fits bumper. In the end I just put a sticker over the crack, but every time Ive looked into getting something done, theres been a pretty wide range, and it just came down to finding someone I trusted enough to do it.
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Mar 25, 2021 22:04
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two_beer_bishes posted:I tried that too, didn't do anything Soak the dowels in penetrating oil overnight. Then you will need some percussion from a dead blow around the entire bellhousing in a circle. I have always had to use quite a bit more force than I expected. E: Spelling.
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Mar 25, 2021 22:14
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