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Limp mode on a BRZ is more like a 3500 rpm rev limiter and softened throttle response, and usually the CEL comes on. I suppose maybe if it was in the almost-stalling neighbourhood for long enough that the ECU felt like it was trying to keep the engine running on 87 or something like that maybe it could have done that?
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Mar 27, 2021 01:19
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i own every Bionicle posted:I’ve been wracking my brain trying to figure out what this could be, and I can’t think of anything the ECU would have done to make it run weird after nearly stalling it, but you could either reset it with your code reader or pull a battery connector for 30 seconds to clear it if it was something from the ECU to see if that straightens it out. What I heard while driving was mostly while decelerating. I was only accelerating at a slow/average pace, shifting around 3K, and aside from the hesitation it seemed ok, but idle seems a little louder/more hollow than usual as well. Kazinsal posted:Limp mode on a BRZ is more like a 3500 rpm rev limiter and softened throttle response, and usually the CEL comes on. I suppose maybe if it was in the almost-stalling neighbourhood for long enough that the ECU felt like it was trying to keep the engine running on 87 or something like that maybe it could have done that? I did find that I have a code reader at my house that hopefully will work so I will give it a scan in the morning.
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Mar 27, 2021 01:55
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DrChu posted:I was not trying to take it above 3500 Serious question: does your basic, normal driving not take you over 3500 RPMs on a regular basis?
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Mar 27, 2021 02:00
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Jeep purpose building a renegade (lol fiat 500) to get through some specific course means their renegade is probably awful at simple, pedestrian poo poo, at best. freakin yikes dude its just an example of a car with open diffs doing trails most enthusiasts insist require 35s and lockers e: also it was a journalist who did it Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Mar 27, 2021 |
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Mar 27, 2021 02:20
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Motronic posted:Serious question: does your basic, normal driving not take you over 3500 RPMs on a regular basis? Usually I get above it, not redlining it but I will run it through 2-4 on onramps and things like that. For average driving I shift around 3500 as that's when the transmission is the smoothest. Today was much heavier traffic than usual so I was on all surface streets rather than highways and really didn't get above 30mph.
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Mar 27, 2021 02:30
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OMGVBFLOL posted:freakin yikes dude Chrysler touched my no-no spot.
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Mar 27, 2021 02:53
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Guinness posted:There's no need for locking diffs on snowy highways even in mountain passes. By the time any of that would matter the pass will be closed and you won't be going regardless. He wasn't talking about passes with snowy highways, he was talking about offroading passes, completely different. I'll take my (mostly) bone-stock Impreza on any highway pass I'd take an Outback XT on, like you said by the time anything it has would matter aside from just ease of speeding up fro the turbo, the highway would be, if not closed, beyond what anyone sensible would try to take. I'd be glad to be wrong about needing locking differentials for that stuff, if and when I have the money I'd love to turn some tiny car into an offroader. I found a suspension for about $1600 that would give my Impreza a 6" lift, but then I'd need longer axles and probably control arms and subframe spacers and and and. While we're on the topic, does a Subaru manual without DCCD count as a center locked differential since it has a fixed 50/50 torque split or am I misunderstanding?
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Mar 27, 2021 17:19
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
It does not. Under certain circumstances, the viscous fluid transfer difference may cause to to temporarily heat the fluid to the point where pressure causes the plates to deform and "hump" together. This has a locking effect, but it is momentary before the heat and pressure drop and everything snaps back into place. Otherwise, there's not much resistance to low to moderate driveshaft speed differences.
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Mar 27, 2021 18:09
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I checked the car for codes this morning and found one: P000A - Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1 I cleared the code and drove across town. Here's a video of a warm start and minute of idle, I didn't hear anything unusual this time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvePhYQTU38 After this I drove around a bit more and checked for codes again but there were none. I checked the forums and groups about this code and it doesn't seem that uncommon: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124678 https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2852441 https://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/forums/topic/7054-p000a-issues/ These seem more severe than my case but it looks like its start as an intermittent problem but will start to come back more frequently. There's a TSB for problems in this area: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10160490-9999.pdf I checked my oil level and its fine, but I'll change it soon anyway since the last time I did was last summer (I've driven less than 2000 miles since then). The oil control valve is only $75 so I may just go ahead and replace it (or all of them) with the most recent version as preventative maintenance. DrChu fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Mar 28, 2021 |
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Mar 27, 2021 18:53
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2005 EZ30 Outback What's the little grey cap with a H on it for? I remember seeing it in the top of the engine bay before but found it in the undertray while working on the car
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Mar 28, 2021 08:01
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simplefish posted:2005 EZ30 Outback Green? Probably air conditioner refrigerant filler cap
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Mar 28, 2021 09:06
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Nope, definitely grey Whereabouts should I be looking to screw it on? I looked but couldn't see anything obvious simplefish fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Mar 28, 2021 |
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Mar 28, 2021 09:56
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Take a picture please.
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Mar 28, 2021 14:17
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DrChu posted:I checked the car for codes this morning and found one: P000A - Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1 i used to get this in my FA WRX. the car would idle rough and would feel on the verge of stalling and i really had no idea why. my car had a pro tune on it and when i asked the tuner about the code, he said that i should change the oil and i’ll be fine. apparently this is not uncommon on FA engines. i never did ultimately resolve what was causing it, as i think i got the code 3 times total over 15k miles but i was definitely burning oil more than usual. i backed off my more aggressive driving style and did more frequent oil changes and the problem seemed to go away on its own
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Mar 28, 2021 14:23
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Green? They're usually grey or blue in the US, sometimes black, but yeah, AC cap. simplefish posted:Whereabouts should I be looking to screw it on? AC line leading from the condenser to the compressor, I believe. Should have a schrader valve that it looks like something can snap on to.
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Mar 28, 2021 14:58
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dk2m posted:i used to get this in my FA WRX. the car would idle rough and would feel on the verge of stalling and i really had no idea why. my car had a pro tune on it and when i asked the tuner about the code, he said that i should change the oil and i’ll be fine. apparently this is not uncommon on FA engines. Did you only notice the issues when the code was active, or did they happen all the time and the code only appear those three times?
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Mar 29, 2021 05:00
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DrChu posted:Did you only notice the issues when the code was active, or did they happen all the time and the code only appear those three times? It would happen before the code threw - each time, it was when I was at a stop light or was slow moving; I would feel the idle RPMs fluctuate and drop until the car felt like stalling. It never would actually stall, but inevitably a short while later the code would get thrown. After that, I would clear the code, change the oil and things appeared fine again. Never noticed any long term damage but as you've seen as well, this was a weird code to diagnose so I never got any closure on it and never actually took anything apart to figure out the root cause.
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Mar 29, 2021 05:38
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Apparently 05-07 STI struts will fit on my SVX if I (have a friend) weld a tab on the control arm for the swaybar. Are there ny good adjustable options out there for the '05-07 STI or is it basically just coilovers? I was looking at the Koni pre-assembled Sport Yellows with Eibach springs but that's apparently only for the WRX so I'd need to shim the bracket, which is not an option I'm in love with. I'm not sure I'd like stock STI struts, and the SVX is about 400 pounds heavier. On the other hand, if I'm thinking about this right having a heavier car effectively softens the springs and struts, right? You need higher spring rate springs to have the same natural frequency at a higher spring rate.
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Mar 29, 2021 20:05
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Apparently 05-07 STI struts will fit on my SVX if I (have a friend) weld a tab on the control arm for the swaybar. Are there ny good adjustable options out there for the '05-07 STI or is it basically just coilovers? I was looking at the Koni pre-assembled Sport Yellows with Eibach springs but that's apparently only for the WRX so I'd need to shim the bracket, which is not an option I'm in love with. I'm not sure I'd like stock STI struts, and the SVX is about 400 pounds heavier. Where did you get the 180kgs number from? The SVX is about 60kgs heavier so it;s not out of the ballpark for stock 07 STI springs and shocks. http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=41831 I dont really know anything about the SVX so I cant confirm or deny anything in that link and it on first glance doesnt look lego straightforward.
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Mar 29, 2021 21:38
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The mention about needing to pry open the bracket is (to the best of my knowledge) incorrect, the '05-07 STI went to the 114.3mm diameter bolt pattern, at the same time they changed the width of the bracket, which means (And Jamal or anyone else can correct me on this) the part on the strut that bolts into the knuckle got narrower, as did the bracket. This ends up matching the SVX which kind of makes sense given that the SVX also has a 114.3mm bolt pattern so they could very well have just said 'We already did the R&D on this for a car that flopped, no point in wasting it." Prying open the bracket is actually somewhat appealing though, if it wasn't for my concern of adding fatigue to the bracket that's already 21 years old. If I did that I could hypothetically fit a WRX housing and could just toss in the Koni Yellow struts and be done with it. I've got someone who is going to make a new strut mount, if needed it could be a smaller diameter opening to fit the STI strut. Maybe I should just see about take-offs from an STI, that would probably be fairly cheap, I'm just concerned about stiffness on what's nominally the most sporty of the publicly-available Subarus. Then again I'm seeing a spring rate of about 225lb/in or 4kg/mm for the fronts on the STI so it might not be too bad, IIRC the stock springs are 140lb front 110lb back so it would be firmer without being jarring like the 8kg/6kg setups I'm seeing on a lot of the SVX coilovers. The SVX I have is about 1625kg, you might have been looking at the weight of the FWD version for the 80kg extra number you gave. It's definitely not going to be a bolt-on option like the existing coilovers would be but it would make for better parts availability in the coming years, and I wouldn't have to get them rebuilt every couple years either. I haven't checked directly with Subaru but I've heard that at least one corner of the original struts is NLA.
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Mar 29, 2021 22:09
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No, def talkign about the AWD, didnt even know a FWD existed Prying open the dog ears on a strut just sounds like all sorts of bad idea. Need some measurements or images, think I have an idea that might be better
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Mar 29, 2021 22:44
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If I remember I can go out tomorrow and check for the ID and OD of the dog ears, by the time I'm off work it's going to be way too dark to even try. I did find some used KW V3s for $1k that are probably a bad idea but I've heard such good things about them. I'm definitely having to control my temptation to throw a kidney's worth of money at this thing.
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Mar 29, 2021 22:57
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Issue: Overheating when idling after a highway trip Car: 2004 WRX 133K miles, timing belt + water pump done at 103K, new radiator at 120K. Last week after a 1 hour trip on the highway, I went to get gas and while idling in line the temp gauge went up to 2/3. I tried blasting the heat but the air came out cold. I tried light throttle and that helped the temp go down a bit. Both fans were running. Once I got back on the highway, temp went back to normal. The next day (cold engine) I saw the plastic overflow tank had coolant 2-3 inches above the Full line. Took the radiator cap off and there's coolant to the top. Took the upper tank cap off and there's coolant 2 inches down - it's not filled to the top. I checked the upper tank cap, the rubber looks intact, but it felt gritty when I squeezed the spring. The coolant looks dark green. The oil dipstick is dark brown, not milky. I've been city driving since then, 15 mins trips, and temp has stayed normal at 1/3. Hot air works when it's above idle. Today was a warm day so I drove with the A/C on in stop+go traffic, temp gauge normal, overflow tank still 2-3 inches above Full line and no bubbling. From reading online it could be: - radiator/upper tank caps - air bubble - thermostat - headgasket (I hope not) Have I missed any diagnostic steps? I am thinking Step 1 is to get a new upper tank cap since I lost coolant from the upper tank into the overflow. Or should I replace the radiator cap too? Step 2 burp the cooling system and massage the radiator hoses. Step 3 replace thermostat. Step 4 go to mechanic. Am I on the right track?
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Mar 30, 2021 00:07
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Who's water pump was put on there? Most of the remans I've come across are such unmitigated poo poo I refuse to use them.
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Mar 30, 2021 00:51
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The front lower strut mount on the 5x114 sti (and now also wrx, legacy, outback), are wider/larger and the holes are spaced farther apart. You definitely can't just,like, pry on a wrx strut to cram it over an sti upright. But you can, like, sort of make a spacer and drill a new hole to do it the other way around. The rear uprights are the same across all the impreza/legacy as far as strut mounting goes. (well fwd are a little different. I've never looked close at an svx or compared the stuff to other subarus but yeah it is all just a little bit different.
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Mar 30, 2021 01:34
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Motronic posted:Who's water pump was put on there? Most of the remans I've come across are such unmitigated poo poo I refuse to use them. The shop invoice says "Water Pump Turbo-N 21111AA026G" which seems like a Subaru OEM part number if you take the G off the end. Any tips on how to determine if it's water pump vs other possible causes?
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Mar 30, 2021 01:40
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Carbocation posted:Issue: Overheating when idling after a highway trip My car roughly did that when my gasket went. Get a mechanic to put a sniffer in the coolant to rule it out.
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Mar 30, 2021 01:55
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Chiwie posted:My car roughly did that when my gasket went. Get a mechanic to put a sniffer in the coolant to rule it out. Yeah, I mean.....I don't know it's that, but between checking water pump flow vs. a coolant exhaust gas test.......you do the latter first since it's cheap and easy.
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Mar 30, 2021 01:57
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Bad head gasket on a WRX I fixed did this. It was also pushing coolant into the overflow. If it's not bubbling like this one it could just be the radiator cap too if you're lucky. The symptom where your heat went out may mean it pushed enough coolant out so that it was low enough to not run through the heater core and revving it will fix that temporarily. https://youtu.be/-RW-hkTjGcQ A bad pump won't push coolant out of the system as far as I know but I've seen enough weird poo poo to never count any weird poo poo out.
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Mar 30, 2021 03:45
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jamal posted:The front lower strut mount on the 5x114 sti (and now also wrx, legacy, outback), are wider/larger and the holes are spaced farther apart. You definitely can't just,like, pry on a wrx strut to cram it over an sti upright. But you can, like, sort of make a spacer and drill a new hole to do it the other way around. Yeah, the SVX has a lot of weird little quirks that they ended up discarding it seems. One small blessing is that they basically did most of the basic upgrades that people want to throw at it straight out of the factory. The intake manifold and runners are massive, I haven't gotten under it because my "driveway" is mud and snow at this point (working on getting a paver driveway put together) but by all accounts the exhaust is big enough you don't get any benefit from a custom exhaust. The biggest issue with using an aftermarket suspension aside from needing to use the original strut mounts (unless you want to cut and weld the strut mount area with something to fit the Impreza mounts) is that they decided to attach the front sway bar to the strut rather than the LCA. Here's a picture of a set of coilovers that shows it.  I was talking with a friend about it and he basically told me "Just get some stock parts so you can actually enjoy the car for a while before you try custom work." I can't say he's wrong, I guess. I was just kind of looking forward to swapping a complete assembly rather than replacing the struts because I've found that 10 year old struts love to get all frozen together and I'm pretty sure these are 27 years old given that the fronts are basically dead at 80k miles. Being able to just pull the whole assembly and yeet it is very appealing compared to getting 27 years of road grime and magnesium chloride apart and back together. I couldn't even buy all the parts for a new assembly for the SVX if I wanted to, the bump stop and boot are NLA and I think some of the other parts are as well but I don't remember off the top of my head. There are SVX coilovers as seen above but a lot of them either have no reviews or are sub-BC quality. Would there be interest in a thread of what I do on this car? I don't plan on doing a ton is the only thing. I mainly want to restore it and then pay for someone that actually knows what they're doing to do a manual swap once the auto starts to go.
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Mar 30, 2021 03:57
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Instead of piecing suspension, what is the fesibility of swapping hubs to something that will then allow you to run easier sourced suspension? Edit : Really would be clearer if I knew what all the measurements off a SVX hub was then I'ld be fairly certain what could be or couldnt be done - not being harsh on you, I just genuinely dont know and finding it hard to find much. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Mar 30, 2021 |
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Mar 30, 2021 05:08
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Oh believe me, I get it being hard to find information. When you say hub, do you mean the entire knuckle? It seems to me (and I could be wrong, I'm not sure how to tell with no parts to compare) that the issue is more the lower control arm, which is a completely different design in terms of shape. STI struts are known to work with the SVX strut mounts (or drilling new holes and grinding the Impreza strut mounts to fit inside the car). It seems that some people using WRX suspensions have also just ground down the mounting point on the knuckle, but I'm not in love with the idea of a destructive modification like that. It's seeming more and more like I should just bite the bullet and gamble on the lower quality coilovers because they will still probably ride better than a 27 year old worn out suspension. If you know what points need measuring, I can do that tomorrow (hopefully), I just don't know what the relevant points are.
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Mar 30, 2021 05:25
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Actually cutting down the hub's strut mounts is.... something done on the AWD BRZ and it does work. Recommended? Nope! I'ld like to see the SVX hub next to a STI shock as well as the SVX's front suspension setup so I can visualise what could be swapped about. It's really one of those things you give me 10 minutes in person with and I'll have a possible solution. Edit : I think I just found a exploded view and..... holy poo poo WTF Subaru. Could you post a image of the front control arms to confirm? Edit 2 " Hmmm... front hub looks a lot like a 1995-1997 WRX hub. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 11:35 on Mar 30, 2021 |
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Mar 30, 2021 11:26
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Sure, I'll get a picture of the control arm, but I'm pretty sure the answer is yes, they actually look like that. They're weird. I found a used set of suspension assemblies in Japan that (assuming nobody else bids on the auction) will be about $150-200 shipped, so one option I'm considering is getting those, cutting those up for the Koni Sport inserts so A) I have spares in case I gently caress it up and B) I'm not leaving the car sitting unusable. Then I might try 3d printing the rubber cushion between the spring and mount from TPU if the old one is as worn out as I expect from 27 year old rubber, and put some King Springs on there if I can find a set that fits. Another option would be to print a cast for the cushion and then cast it out of silicone if TPU would be too hard. That does leave the question of how to replace the boots and bump stops, the bump stops could maybe be printed as well, and they would be facing compressive forces which is good for a printed object even though TPU has very good layer strength anyway. Boots would be much trickier, assuming I couldn't just find four of the eight that can be salvaged. I'm trying to avoid cutting much ride height, if any, because I have a set of slightly larger than stock winter tires that I still want to be able to use and because I want to keep the appearance as close to stock as possible. Also this thing is already low in comparison to the other cars I've owned, a Camry and an Impreza OBS, so I don't really feel like making it even more awkward for someone my height to get in and out of.
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Mar 30, 2021 16:24
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Seems like something's going to have to get machined to adapt regular impreza parts on there. An insert for the upright to take the ball joint pin is one option but puts a lot of extra leverage on the upright there than it's meant for. We had a ball joint extender crack an upright and pull out. on track, at high speed. Moving the ball joint so much farther away is probably not a good idea. The other option that I think I like better would be a new piece bolted onto the arm that takes the impreza ball joint taper. What this does to suspension geometry though I'm not sure. Either will likely result in a fairly big change to roll center height and bump steer. If there's a koni insert that fits in stock svx struts I think that's probably the best and most straightforward option. CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:
Was that a special year range where they put the ball joint in the control arm instead of the upright? jamal fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Mar 31, 2021 |
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Mar 30, 2021 19:48
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2 Things: 1. My wife and I are looking into upgrading her 2015 Forester Touring to a 2021 Ascent. I know the first few years of that cars existence had its issues, but is there any reason I should not be looking at it? It drives really nice and the extra room for the kids is a huge benefit. 2. My 17 WRX (full bolt-ons) has thrown a P0018 code for the left intake cam sprocket sensor. Last year I had the P0016 code show up and had the engine pulled, after putting it back to stock, by the dealer to replace right intake cam sprocket, sensor, and ecu. Has anyone else had these issues? I have the service bulletin from the NHTSA https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10160490-9999.pdf
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Apr 1, 2021 16:35
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I would not consider an Ascent just due to the physics of using something that big with a CVT. I don't believe that anyone can build one strong enough to put up with that much weight. Any reason why you aren't looking at a minivan instead? If you want space it's a better choice by far.
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Apr 1, 2021 18:04
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Wrar posted:I would not consider an Ascent just due to the physics of using something that big with a CVT. I don't believe that anyone can build one strong enough to put up with that much weight. Any reason why you aren't looking at a minivan instead? If you want space it's a better choice by far. My wife refuses the idea of the minivan. The CVT point makes sense since I heard of the issues the previous years had.
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Apr 1, 2021 18:57
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what's the warranty like on the cvt? i'd think it'd be fairly generous since it's tech people are still skittish about also if she doesn't want a minivan you should suggest a full size passenger van if you think the joke would land. chevy has optional locking rear diff, mercedes has optional 4x4, and they both have available diesels! lol
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Apr 2, 2021 07:09
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Finally got those pictures and it's weirder than I thought. I never realized a ball joint on the side of the knuckle was a thing. Also unless that's perspective, that's a hell of an angle on the strut.  
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Apr 3, 2021 |
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Apr 3, 2021 00:08
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