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Alright, that makes sense. In the interest of science I will start paying attention to runtimes and surfaces. In the interest of being able to turn an 8 year old loose with the car without smoking it or dealing with things other than “wheeeeee!” is going brushless and staying on 2S a pretty surefire way to go? The goal being no restrictions on surfaces, driving finesse, or runtime? Sounds like the first order of business is to grab the shortest (looks like 11t vs stock 14t) 48p pinion I can get to start and see where that gets me. Next would be brushless upgrade (provided people here think the efficiency and headroom of running 2S on a 3S motor/ESC is a good bet to solve this), and then finally tuning with the pinion (different pitch to match the new spur, I’m aware I can’t use the pinions I started with).
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Mar 24, 2021 15:03
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Brushless is incredible. Virtually maintenance free and will have the same consistent performance outing after outing. As long as you never overgear the thing and get it too hot they will last virtually forever. They are more efficient, they make more power. The ability to overpower the chassis is quite easy to do. They are better in every single way. You also can just program the thing so that you are only using 50% power or whatever you want so that it is not balls out in your face fast all the time. I just use the end point adjustment on my radio before handing it over to a younger kid. The extra bonus of running them at a lower output means you will get longer run times. I mean expect like a 30 minute run time with a standard 2S lipo battery. This will also mean you have a built in upgrade as soon as your kid is capable of driving faster.
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Mar 24, 2021 17:18
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Brushless is incredible. Virtually maintenance free and will have the same consistent performance outing after outing. As long as you never overgear the thing and get it too hot they will last virtually forever. They are more efficient, they make more power. The ability to overpower the chassis is quite easy to do. They are better in every single way. Thanks, it sounds like this is the way to go. This Granite is for the kids so currently on an entry level radio that does give 50/75/100 throttle limits, but our DB Pro I have on a DX5C and have been able to adjust the throttle to basically match the Granite so both kids or their friends can have two cars to run. I did dick around with the NiMH battery and it seems to give like 7 or 8 minutes run time. The ESC says low voltage cutoff is 6.4V on NiMH jumper setting but it consistently shuts off at around 8.4 V (unloaded), so I assume the pack voltage is sagging hard enough to trip the protection. On the 2S at 50% throttle limit it seems to be good to go thermally for a while, haven't even tried a constant entire pack yet since I'm supposed to be working and all, but I will probably just keep that 50% for now until I figure out the right parts to throw at this thing. In the thread opinion should I try to source the BLX100 ESC and the motor that goes on the brushless Granite, or is it one of those cases where I'd be better off with something third party? I was looking at this combo but I'm not really sure if I'm asking for trouble with an 85A ESC as opposed to the 100A one. I also can't really figure out the difference between the packaged SPMXSM1300 3300 Kv motor (which looks like it's a $35 motor if purchased separately) and the SPMXSM2000 3200 Kv motor that looks like is standard on the brushless Granite and looks to be a $90 motor... I am sort of a fan of having the telemetry even though the radio for the Granite can't do anything with it, I assume I can bind it to the DX5C for troubleshooting and whatnot if I go with all Spektrum electronics which is why I'm leaning that way.
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Mar 24, 2021 20:55
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mattfl posted:So the guy who designed the Jeep I printed out has just released a new model Well, it took forever but I finally finished this up today and holy poo poo is it awesome. Some finished shots    Full throttle lol https://imgur.com/syOIuei Is gluing the tires to the wheels a thing? This thing just rips them right off! Here's a full gallery of shots I took throughout the printing/build process https://imgur.com/gallery/UTeP2k7
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Apr 1, 2021 21:13
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mattfl posted:Well, it took forever but I finally finished this up today and holy poo poo is it awesome. holy gently caress that thing is badass Part of me really hoped it was gas just because I wanted to hear it but its still awesome regardless
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Apr 1, 2021 21:33
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mattfl posted:Well, it took forever but I finally finished this up today and holy poo poo is it awesome. drat that rules. I really want a VW body for my TRX4.
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Apr 1, 2021 21:39
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mattfl posted:Is gluing the tires to the wheels a thing? This thing just rips them right off! Yes, typically you mount tires to the wheels with superglue unless it's a crawler with beadlocks. Looks amazing!
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Apr 1, 2021 22:36
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That Beetle is awesome! It looks like an absolute riot! Also, Crawler guys / anyone else who might have an idea: Does anyone have a good suggestion for a pre-made interior for my SCX10? Or something along those lines if that makes sense. I have a JConcepts GMC K10 body on the way along with a bunch of other scale bits, and I REALLY want to do clear windows with a scale interior and action figure driver to really complete the look, but I genuinely have no idea where to start. Do peoples / companies make scale interiors that you can just glue to the body or whatever or is that sort of thing almost entirely custom fabbed?
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Apr 1, 2021 23:01
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T1g4h posted:That Beetle is awesome! It looks like an absolute riot! You can try this if you want Go here -> https://www.thingiverse.com/ and search for SCX10 stuff and if you find something you want I'd be more than happy to print it out for you.
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Apr 1, 2021 23:04
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mattfl posted:You can try this if you want Awesome, I'll look through what they have and get back to you! I'm genuinely new to realistic scale stuff so I have like, zero idea how this sort of thing is usually done 
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Apr 2, 2021 02:24
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powderific posted:Yes, typically you mount tires to the wheels with superglue unless it's a crawler with beadlocks. Omg yes, the RC10 absolutely rips the tires off the rims now and I have to rebead them 20 times a minute. I have to glue them so bad but my gorilla glue us a brick and I keep forgetting when I'm out to get some. Trying to remember to get some video soon, this car is just hilarious now
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Apr 2, 2021 03:02
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mattfl posted:Well, it took forever but I finally finished this up today and holy poo poo is it awesome. Holy poo poo this is goals now. My next one was going to be an early 70s GTR but now I'm torn. That Beetle is the coolest poo poo, it's perfect. shy boy from chess club posted:Omg yes, the RC10 absolutely rips the tires off the rims now and I have to rebead them 20 times a minute. I have to glue them so bad but my gorilla glue us a brick and I keep forgetting when I'm out to get some. Trying to remember to get some video soon, this car is just hilarious now
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Apr 2, 2021 03:04
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uwaeve posted:Thanks, it sounds like this is the way to go. This Granite is for the kids so currently on an entry level radio that does give 50/75/100 throttle limits, but our DB Pro I have on a DX5C and have been able to adjust the throttle to basically match the Granite so both kids or their friends can have two cars to run. This is a pretty good deal for a Spektrum 3150kv motor and 130A ESC: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Losi-S...1MAAOSwwf1gVlbn Bought the same motor/ESC for the LMT roller I just put together (it's what the RTR comes with), plenty of power on 3S.
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Apr 2, 2021 03:33
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Shout out to Tekno for releasing the ugliest truck ever. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csyegLIPYCY
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Apr 9, 2021 14:00
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Is there a trick to mounting beadlocks? The end result no matter how I approach it seems to be slightly larger rubber bead circumference than the channel I’m trying to lock it into. I’ve watched some tips and tricks and its possible I’ve stretched them but I really did take care to minimize it when installing the foams. For reference, it’s garbage Amazon wheels that are just stamped/punched sheet metal with the solid rings for rims (turned down slightly for the bead to sit) and a separate hub. That could be my problem, just bad wheels. The other stuff I would expect to work correctly, pro line super swamper and dual stage foams, everything in 1.9. I have taken great pains to get the foams in folded up then even everything out before getting the ring in and starting the front and back bead-locking pieces. I can’t seem to keep the bead down in the ring evenly on both sides of the wheel when going like a turn at a time, always wind up with an unseated bead that doesn’t get captured correctly. I can put pics up but figured I’d start with a description and maybe someone would say “try real wheels” or “use dish soap” or something. And thank you for the motor/ESC combo suggestion, i forgot to respond. Wound up just going for the cheap option of the 85A with 3300 Kv motor for $95 and buying an assortment of pinions. Other than getting used to the startup (son is sad he can no longer blast backwards and immediately peel out forwards, my lawn is visibly relieved), the thing is a different animal. Absolutely flies and have geared down a bunch and happy motor temperatures abound for now.
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Apr 10, 2021 19:52
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I don’t remember having any particular trouble mounting my RC4wd tires on my g-made beadlocks (the ones that look like steel wheels.) There was a little bit of tugging around to get them more even, but I don’t remember it being overly challenging.
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Apr 10, 2021 21:40
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Alright, I took some more shots at it and once I get more than a few threads of engagement the bead isn't getting pulled in. Get a little bead hernia every time. Will probably just bring it next time I go to the shop and see if I'm missing something or its' garbage wheels or I'm just an idiot (spoiler alert it's all three) edit: found someone else with potentially the same issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz8LNsFW6G4&t=78s Now what's a good middle of the road wheel recommendation that goes with the ProLine Super Swamper XL? uwaeve fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 18:24
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Decided I should get a lipo bag now rather than later and now I'm seeing these Bat-Safe boxes also. Anyone used one and have thoughts? Not concerned about price, especially relative to the value of my garage.
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Apr 14, 2021 00:35
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Sloppy posted:Decided I should get a lipo bag now rather than later and now I'm seeing these Bat-Safe boxes also. Anyone used one and have thoughts? Not concerned about price, especially relative to the value of my garage. Speaking of which, I assume it's not safe to store batteries in a garage with no ac in Texas? Is it better to store them in a temp controlled environment?
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Apr 17, 2021 06:07
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Temperature controlled, storage voltage, fireproof container.
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Apr 19, 2021 20:09
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I store batteries inside. I think the storage voltage stuff is bogus or perhaps a relic of past chemistry issues. I have never used a lipo bag. But I usually don't charge over 1C, and I recycle batteries that start to get puffy. If I were worried enough about a battery to put a bag around it to charge, I would just get rid of it.
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Apr 19, 2021 20:19
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I have this urge to try and take a touring car chassis and slap longer suspension onto it to make a rally car. Information on doing this is either long out of date recommending a chassis that isn't sold anymore or to just get a Tamiya. I'm eyeballing a 3racing Sakura Advance S for a chassis. Main problem seems to be it is belt drive and exposed which may prove problematic with intended use case of screwing around off road. Shaft driven kits seem to be banggood specials or a Kyosho and Yokomo kit. Kyosho seems to have trouble stocking parts, but they're all parts bin specials so it seems like it'd be easy to take bits and pieces from their other models to make it work. Worst case I have fun building a kit that is bad at racing and rallying. Best case a non-tamiya rally car. Was curious if anyone has done this before.
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Apr 22, 2021 20:02
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Well "non tamiya" really hurts you there. The TT02 is a good choice. BUT.. if you want performance, you're looking for the XV-01. I think LC Racing has a 1/10 platform that's shaft drive.. Ah, they do! https://www.rcmart.com/lc-racing-ptg-2hk-00106594 LC Racing makes very good stuff.
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Apr 22, 2021 20:45
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Really loved my XV-01 for rally car style fun. A lot of the other rally car chassis out there are short course truck based and kinda too capable to feel like rally cars to me. Why no tamiya?
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Apr 22, 2021 20:56
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Not sure what my Tamiya hangup is, but I feel like if it isn't a lunch box or other silly vehicle then I should look elsewhere. Good suggestion on that LC racing, more to ponder.
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Apr 22, 2021 21:00
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I tossed the rally and truck parts catalog at my TT-02 touring kit. So far, zero regrets.  Edit: Running 80mm length shocks vs the stock Tamiya 50mm(?).
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Apr 22, 2021 21:23
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Terminus Est posted:Not sure what my Tamiya hangup is, but I feel like if it isn't a lunch box or other silly vehicle then I should look elsewhere. You should least give the XV-01 a look — it's ideal for what your describing since the sensitive bits are decently sealed away but it's still a touring car really. It's also a relatively new kit so it's go bearings, etc, and you don't have to upgrade everything out of the box.
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Apr 22, 2021 22:33
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I have no idea what is going on but I need one. https://twitter.com/TamiyaUK/status/1387269257264869378?s=19
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Apr 28, 2021 16:10
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McTinkerson posted:I have no idea what is going on but I need one. This better come flat pack in a large box and use an over sized tamiya plug to charge. Rally car adventures, ordered the Yokomo SD9. Should be here Friday. I'm thinking 12mm big bore front buggy shocks will work pretty well for suspension. Planning on fabbing a shock mount extension out of aluminium to get as much travel as possible if needed. Car has a plastic tub that looks like it will take nicely to some filing and cutting to maximize travel. One nice thing, this chassis has conversion kits to make it a drift car so there are a lot of factory dog bones, tie-rods, and universals of longer length available if I start popping dog bones out of cups. Going for a Peugeot 205 group B body. Thinking of going for camel yellow like their Dakar entry. Should be fun.
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Apr 28, 2021 19:36
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Terminus Est posted:and use an over sized tamiya plug to charge. Do you want a garage fire? This is how you get a garage fire. Oversized Deans plug or bust.
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Apr 28, 2021 20:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do you want a garage fire? This is how you get a garage fire. Exposed high current terminals with no vague suggestion of strain relief has gotta be the best option. (I use Deans..)
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Apr 28, 2021 21:30
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XT90s are rated to 4,000W, so a couple of those in parallel should do it, right? Right? 
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Apr 29, 2021 00:46
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scandoslav posted:XT90s are rated to 4,000W, so a couple of those in parallel should do it, right?
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Apr 29, 2021 22:07
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I have an XV-01 and it performs well. I did a pseudo long damper conversion but it might not be necessary depending. I think the chassis layout is frustrating. It was a pain mounting electronics and routing wires. The battery tray requires extra concern depending on what you're putting in there. But it has been very reliable in the dirt. So all that dust protection must be worth something. Also, the body looks incredible. 
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Apr 29, 2021 22:51
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FYI that picture has made me almost pay top dollar plus expensive shipping for a lancia xv-01 like fifteen times in the past few weeks. God damnit I just like tamiya so much.
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May 13, 2021 04:58
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I think my brother will be thrilled to hear that review of his photography. Are they out of stock or something? I didn't know there was a shortage.
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May 13, 2021 18:01
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I've got a TT02 that I plan on going full rally-build for and I just want to drop a ton of money on sweet sweet Tamiya rally bodies.
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May 13, 2021 20:38
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kuffs posted:Are they out of stock or something? I didn't know there was a shortage. I've only found them for sale on eBay and then it's generally 3-400+ for an unopened kit so I'm guessing out of production.
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May 14, 2021 02:19
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Looks like some shops have the subaru in stock still https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-1-10-xv01-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-ep-58528-00035267 https://www.asiatees.com/display?Tamiya-XV-01-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Tamiya&model=XV-01&id=87042&pid=1 Apparently Tamiya released an XV-01T? https://www.asiatees.com/display?Tamiya-XV-01-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Tamiya&model=XV-01&id=87037&pid=1 Which might technically be a Long Damper version underneath? But with different tires, wheels, and bumper. I'm pretty sure I've bought from both of these retailers before. They tend to be better about stocking Tamiya stuff.
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May 14, 2021 04:09
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 Rip in peace to my Turbo Optima's glorious paintjob. I was really proud of how it turned out, but it flexes a lot. So I decided to reinforce it with fiber tape and shoe goo. A process I had done on my Endura and was really pleased with. Unfortunately...The paint I used for the Optima did NOT handle it and it went entirely crinkly and gross. I ended up just spraying the outside flat black so it doesn't look completely ridiculous while I wait for a Javelin roll cage body to arrive. Oh my god it drives like a dream though. I always wanted one of these, and when I got a nice bonus from work I pulled the trigger. So satisfying to build. I'm running it with a 4750kv generic brand brushless motor, and it flies. Practically glued to the ground, it just refuses to lose grip. One of the steering linkages loves to pop free though, I'm going to have to work up a solution. There's a metal upgrade version, but I've only seen it from Hong Kong and dislike waiting for half a year for parts.
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May 19, 2021 00:08
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