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Oh, drat, my new saturn build plate will be here later today! Apparently these shipped a bit earlier than expected. Thought I was getting it next week sometime. Got the vat in yesterday. This are looking up this week! Now to just ensure I don't check the screen while the build plate has resin on it.... again. 
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Apr 1, 2021 09:44
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aldantefax posted:I double checked the temperature levels for the Prusament PLA I was using and 230 was definitely too hot. I'm knocking it down to 220 for this current print and then I'll see how it goes. If I'm seeing more of the same I'll try 210 and then 200 and see what ends up happening with these pieces. The CaliCat takes a little less material and is a little faster than the Benchy, so I'll keep using it as I make more finetune adjustments and then go back to the Benchy later when I'm in a better spot calibration wise. Print at 215, that's what Prusa's own profiles mandate for their own printers with that filament.
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Apr 1, 2021 12:09
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Prusa throwing shade with their April Fools video today. https://youtu.be/mmJOTRqaMEs
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Apr 1, 2021 13:12
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Aldantefax, I had a FFCP too. They're too hot to reliably run PLA, since they don't have part coolers. They have PTFE barrels and can't run 260C for PETG. They pretty much do ABS, and are pretty good at it.
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Apr 1, 2021 15:27
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For the moment I don’t have the space to print ABS so PLA it is for now, and I’m not about to head back out to pick up a new 3D printer since I have five of these things already. I see that I could mount some separate fans on the front door port to run off a separate power supply to cool the prints for smaller prints given that the bed only travels maybe 30 to 40mm, one or two fans mounted side by side overhanging the front like an apron would probably do fine for the cooling portion. I looked at some vents for the turbo cooling fan that were on Thingiverse but they looked complex, needed to be printed out of polycarbonate, and generally seem like they require a heck of a lot of work, so more forced-air cooling from bigger fans may be in the future.
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Apr 1, 2021 15:47
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Prusa throwing shade with their April Fools video today. 
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Apr 1, 2021 16:26
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insta posted:Aldantefax, I had a FFCP too. They're too hot to reliably run PLA, since they don't have part coolers. They have PTFE barrels and can't run 260C for PETG. They pretty much do ABS, and are pretty good at it. Why do you need 260c for PETG? That seems way high (I print PETG a good 20-30 degrees cooler than I print ABS on the same machine).
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Apr 1, 2021 21:45
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260 is on the high end. I print translucent at 255 to keep max transparency, but otherwise at 240.
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Apr 1, 2021 21:54
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Hey folks, I bought a used Ender 3 from a friend and I'm trying to print some examples. The nozzle is printing, but the PLA isn't sticking to the surface. It's either curling up immediately, or getting pulled off whenever the printer moves in a different direction. I've cleaned the bed and levelled each corner to a paper's width. Any ideas for something to try next?
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Apr 2, 2021 00:44
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Like I posted earlier, try making sure the nozzle is almost touching the bed at auto home height (sounds like you are?), and set the bed hotter.
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Apr 2, 2021 00:47
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Apr 2, 2021 00:55
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Baronash posted:Hey folks, I bought a used Ender 3 from a friend and I'm trying to print some examples. The nozzle is printing, but the PLA isn't sticking to the surface. It's either curling up immediately, or getting pulled off whenever the printer moves in a different direction. I've cleaned the bed and levelled each corner to a paper's width. Any ideas for something to try next? Are you sure it's actually PLA you're using? Bring the nozzle closer to the bed. Put glue on the bed.
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Apr 2, 2021 01:01
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In a reverse April fools I tried a different resin and my issues have corrected themselves. If you buy a photon printer, toss that green poo poo asap!
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Apr 2, 2021 01:15
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Sagebrush posted:Are you sure it's actually PLA you're using? Yep, Amazonbasics PLA. I brought the nozzle even closer, almost uncomfortably so, and that seems to have helped quite a bit. Still had some first layer issues, where segments were popping off the bed, but it was minimal enough that the subsequent layers seem to be printing okay. This is so ridiculously cool.
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Apr 2, 2021 02:11
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Doing some more tests at 230, 220, 210, and 215C, 215 seems to be the sweet spot but I might try to bring it down to 212 later. I adjusted the nozzle speed down from 60mm/s to 25mm/s (I read somewhere that slower nozzle speeds make for better prints) and also dropped the layer height in successive prints from 0.2 to 0.1 (same reason). With the 0.1 I had the worst looking CaliCat print by far, lots of deformity in the overhang area and the corners and not much improvement anywhere else. I'm trying with 0.3 for the layer height and we'll see how that goes if it is any better than 0.2 going the other way. I'm learning quite a bit through incremental changes but I do hope that at some point soon I will be able to actually get to printing stuff instead of one cat or boat after another. It's not an unenjoyable process to go through, but I can tell that there's always a bit of chasing the sweet spot that will take some more doing to compensate for the weaknesses in PLA printing for this printer. Is there a way I can swap out parts to make the nozzles run cooler to be more friendly to PLA? I think for the foreseeable future with this printer (unless I end up reselling everything that I just bought and end up with a Prusa or something) I think if I can change out parts to make it actually friendlier for PLA printing, that should be an acceptable added overhead to getting this to print without any rough corners caused by overheat.
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Apr 2, 2021 02:27
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It's not cooling the nozzle that you want to cool, it's cooling the plastic after it's deposited. I know there are ff compatible part cooling fan mounts out there. The one in front of me has one on it. You can also run it with the door open and w/o the hat. Pla doesn't need either.
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Apr 2, 2021 02:47
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What is the shopping list of extra crap I should buy for an Ender 3 Also I'm planning on acetone-welding stuff together, RC boat parts, what filament do I want. I think only certain filament types work well. Nylon absorbs a poo poo ton of water (25% of it's weight) and gets heavy/bendy. Being big curved surfaces I'm probably going to be printing whatever is fast mode, and then sand/paint my way to victory.
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Apr 2, 2021 02:51
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sharkytm posted:Brass nozzle. That might have something to do with it, for sure. Steel really doesn't transmit heat very well. Do you have a silicone sock on it? wait, is that little rubber cap that was on my printer nozzle supposed to stay on there during operation? i thought it was just for shipping and that it would surely melt when the printer heated up 
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Apr 2, 2021 02:54
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Hadlock posted:What is the shopping list of extra crap I should buy for an Ender 3 Pure ABS is what you want. Of all the filaments in common use it's one of the only ones that can be welded together with acetone (ASA works okay but not as well), it sands and polishes up better than most, and it's the least dense and therefore makes the lightest parts. Lutha Mahtin posted:wait, is that little rubber cap that was on my printer nozzle supposed to stay on there during operation? i thought it was just for shipping and that it would surely melt when the printer heated up assuming you aren't joking, no, those little silicone socks are meant to stay on and both insulate and reduce the gunk buildup on the heater block. Silicone does not melt and it doesn't burn at common printing temperatures either. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Apr 2, 2021 |
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Apr 2, 2021 03:06
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I know this is a joke, but in a weird way I almost agree with the point this fake advertisement is making. I remember being obsessed with 3d printers and the reprap community around 12-13 years ago. I lusted over this stuff, followed all the developments, and planned what features my eventual printer would have. I finally own a personal printer, and there's a very "end of history" feel to the whole thing. All I invested was $200 and a couple hours of fiddling, and it's rivalling the $20 thousand dollar commercial printer I had access to 15 years ago. As someone who really did want to tinker with 3D printers, it's a little disappointing to have missed out.
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Apr 2, 2021 03:30
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3d printers enable turbotinkering with so many other things though, so it should even out.
Scarodactyl fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Apr 2, 2021 |
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Apr 2, 2021 04:27
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Baronash posted:I know this is a joke, but in a weird way I almost agree with the point this fake advertisement is making. But there's still significant improvements to be gained on a $200 printer.
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Apr 2, 2021 04:49
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Baronash posted:I remember being obsessed with 3d printers and the reprap community around 12-13 years ago. I lusted over this stuff, followed all the developments, and planned what features my eventual printer would have. I finally own a personal printer, and there's a very "end of history" feel to the whole thing. All I invested was $200 and a couple hours of fiddling, and it's rivalling the $20 thousand dollar commercial printer I had access to 15 years ago. As someone who really did want to tinker with 3D printers, it's a little disappointing to have missed out. If that's just an original Ender 3 then you can do plenty of tinkering with it, even if all you want to do is make it more reliable. Don't go crazy with modzzzz or anything, but there are plenty of legitimate upgrades.
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Apr 2, 2021 05:05
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Setting up to print from a drybox is worth it even for just petg and tpu
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Apr 2, 2021 05:13
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Hadlock posted:What is the shopping list of extra crap I should buy for an Ender 3 Stiffer bed springs. They keep your bed level much longer. An aluminum extruder. The tension lever on included plastic one almost always eventually cracks. Of the commonly printed materials only ABS and ASA really solvent weld with acetone. You should be able to get HIPS to work with Limonene, and I think MEK as well. Neither of which are too nasty. For PLA, PETG, nylon and such you're looking at very nasty stuff. Baronash posted:Yep, Amazonbasics PLA. At z=0 (which may not be home) the nozzle should be right on the bed. A piece of paper is used because it's also bad to drive the nozzle into the bed, and for consistent spacing. If you used thick paper and had a light touch you're probably too far. It's also possible your bed is warped, and you may need to level for local parallelism where your printing rather than across the whole bed. How did you clean it?
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Apr 2, 2021 06:27
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Aurium posted:You should be able to get HIPS to work with Limonene, and I think MEK as well. Neither of which are too nasty. Hips glues well with model cement, which is mostly mek I think?
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Apr 2, 2021 11:16
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Baronash posted:Yep, Amazonbasics PLA. Don't be afraid to manually level as the first layer is printing. in fact, I recommend it, even if you think you have it down. Watch the first layer for signs of the nozzle being too close (not as much filament being laid down as you think, very faint) and too far (nozzle dragging through over extruded filament leaving ruts, lines peeling up) and adjust the bed leveling knobs as needed. I used to be all about auto-leveling, but it's driving me crazy that I can't manually level or set the z-offset in fine degrees on my CR-6, so I'm thinking of selling it and getting something with manual leveling. If I can ever find an Elegoo Neptune 2 in stock I may buy two of those to replace it.
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Apr 2, 2021 13:22
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Print one of those 3x3 inch first layer calibration files and tune that sucker properly. I thought I had tuned both my prusas "well enough" already, but I hadn't
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Apr 2, 2021 13:27
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Got a weird issue. Same file, same supports. In chitubox says it'll be 3 hours to print and it prints fine. Open in Lychee, same settings for printer and resin as chitubox, but Lychee is saying 23 minute print and it only prints the base layer with the rest failing. Any ideas?
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Apr 2, 2021 18:51
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cakesmith handyman posted:Hips glues well with model cement, which is mostly mek I think? Model cements are incredibly variable. Looking up msds they can contain
I'm sure there are others. Most models are made of polystyrene which honestly works with a wide variety of solvents. MEK in particular is recommended because it's not too nasty and is pretty aggressive. I suspect people recommend limonene because it works ok, and they know it from using hips as a dissolvable support. It's also not so nasty and smells nice.
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Apr 2, 2021 19:27
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Baronash posted:I know this is a joke, but in a weird way I almost agree with the point this fake advertisement is making. As a machinist/designer initially approaching 3d printing as just another complementary manufacturing technique alongside the others I make use of, the relationship most people have with their printers is very striking and imo fairly unique. almost everyone who gets a hobby cnc mill/router wants it as a means to an end, but that actually seems quite rare with 3d printing, where people are really In To the machines themselves. What I think of as the “cultural” motivation is almost always there, often to the extent that yeah non-printer-upgrade parts are basically a sideshow/novelty. It strongly shapes the community and the Scene in both good and bad ways, imo- it’s an extremely accessible and DIY-geared hobby with tons of enthusiastic community members, but it also kinda partitions them off from the broader and more distinctly-professional Computer Design/Manufacturing Community in ways that seem quite limiting if you want to use the technology for serious manufacturing/prototyping with the usual attendant constraints/requirements. Can’t have it both ways, I guess. For purely selfish reasons I wish there was a more vigorous bridging/overlap of users and a bigger “DIY prosumer” niche like you get with machining or laser cutting or whatever.
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Apr 2, 2021 19:39
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Can’t have it both ways, I guess. For purely selfish reasons I wish there was a more vigorous bridging/overlap of users and a bigger “DIY prosumer” niche like you get with machining or laser cutting or whatever. The problem is probably just reliability of 3d printers at consumer prices. Even a prusa fails regularly on anything bigger than a few inches. CNC and laser cutters solved this problem by not having any priced within a magnitude of an Ender. The cheap end of machining tools is closer to a cutting plotter like Cricut. That community seems much more geared towards the "professional" side where they're producing things to be sold. Unsurprisingly, Cricuts are also 100x more reliable than any 3d printer and can make hundreds of stickers a day to sell at their fan conventions.
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Apr 2, 2021 19:50
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Springfield Fatts posted:Got a weird issue. Same file, same supports. In chitubox says it'll be 3 hours to print and it prints fine. Open in Lychee, same settings for printer and resin as chitubox, but Lychee is saying 23 minute print and it only prints the base layer with the rest failing. Any ideas? Take this with a grain of "I think Lychee is overrated trash" salt, but it does seem to be a lot less tolerant of imperfect STL files than Chitu is. Maybe try running a repair on the model (Microsoft's 3D Builder in Windows 10 is great for this, if you're running in that environment) and see if Lychee will eat it then? Just a wild-rear end guess, but it's one thing to try/eliminate.
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Apr 2, 2021 19:53
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Well, despite my better judgement I've begun sourcing Voron 2.4 parts. Time to spend tonight dialing in ABS and all weekend printing parts.
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Apr 2, 2021 20:03
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Aurium posted:Model cements are incredibly variable. ABS is acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene (styrene being usually about half the blend) and HIPS is high-impact polystyrene. Both should work quite well with any glue designed for plastic models.
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Apr 2, 2021 20:12
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MeruFM posted:The problem is probably just reliability of 3d printers at consumer prices. Even a prusa fails regularly on anything bigger than a few inches. Not really? We print parts right up to the size of the bed (goddamn student projects) on the school lab's Prusas and essentially never have print failures any more. Printing PLA on smooth, heated PEI is a completely solved scenario. Ambrose Burnside posted:As a machinist/designer initially approaching 3d printing as just another complementary manufacturing technique alongside the others I make use of, the relationship most people have with their printers is very striking and imo fairly unique. almost everyone who gets a hobby cnc mill/router wants it as a means to an end, but that actually seems quite rare with 3d printing, where people are really In To the machines themselves. \ I dunno. I've seen plenty of people with hobby metal shops who spend most of their time making little upgrades for the machines and only occasionally turning out a little polished office toy doohickey. It's just a hobbyist/professional distinction, I think, and most of the people in here buying 3D printers for between 200 and 800 dollars are hobbyists hacking around. People who use the machines all day every day by and large are not buying Enders or assembling Vorons from scratch; they're getting anything from Prusas to Dimensions depending on their company/lab budget. Like, I have a couple of old motorcycles that I like to hack around on and make new parts for. I ride them a few times a week but don't commute on them. They are basically hobbies for me. If I was using them to get to work every day, I would absolutely not want to be loving around with them. I'd get something modern and reliable that I wouldn't have to think about. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Apr 2, 2021 |
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Apr 2, 2021 20:15
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MeruFM posted:The problem is probably just reliability of 3d printers at consumer prices. Even a prusa fails regularly on anything bigger than a few inches. Also, what? A cricut costs the same as an ender. I don't know what consumer grade 3d printer hurt you, but an ender 3 is perfectly reliable and capable of printing over and over again without any real issues. Mine has been running roughly 80% of the time for the past few weeks and I haven't had a single failed print. Most of those prints had a footprint on the bed that was at least 3x5.
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Apr 2, 2021 20:27
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Sagebrush posted:ABS is acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene (styrene being usually about half the blend) and HIPS is high-impact polystyrene. Both should work quite well with any glue designed for plastic models. On the one hand, yes. On the other hand the limonene HIPS dissolvable support method is supposed to worked with ABS prints. If ABS is remaining hard after being soaked in limonene until the HIPS is soft or even dissolved it's probably not going to solvent weld if your cement is limonene based. There are some people who complain that the abs hips limonene method doesn't work as well as advertised, reporting squishy, bleached, or brittle abs. And there are people who say they get it to work perfectly. I'm just going to shrug, say it probably depends on a specific material mix the spool/brand/color is made of, and point out potential issues.
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Apr 2, 2021 20:39
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Acid Reflux posted:Take this with a grain of "I think Lychee is overrated trash" salt, but it does seem to be a lot less tolerant of imperfect STL files than Chitu is. Maybe try running a repair on the model (Microsoft's 3D Builder in Windows 10 is great for this, if you're running in that environment) and see if Lychee will eat it then? Just a wild-rear end guess, but it's one thing to try/eliminate. drat, and I really like the user experience with Lychee. Guess it's back to the prusa/chitu hackjob process!
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Apr 2, 2021 20:46
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What is the current go-to tool chain for beginner level modeling and slicing? Fusion 360 + Prusa Slicer? To create some babbys first cube etc Fusion 360 recently changed their pricing model and I guess you can't export STEP? Or maybe they back tracked on that after everybody freaked out
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Apr 2, 2021 20:51
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