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hey maybe don't fuckin speed in a "densely populated city" or drive in a manner where you're worrying about red light cameras
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Apr 4, 2021 19:39
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Apr 4, 2021 21:32
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Always buy a Valentine One. The newer model they now have on offer has mitigation in place for those nuisance signals. If I werent stuck at home for the last year Id have a better idea of how well that mitigation works, but get a V1. Edit: wait, red light cameras? Why would a radar detector catch red light cameras? And even if they did/could, yeah, maybe consider not running red lights.
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Apr 4, 2021 22:14
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Possible unpopular opinion: Radar detectors are basically worthless these days. Much of this will be regional, but I just don't see the point of radar detectors anymore. Many states have moved to systems that can't easily be detected until they already have your speed. I was getting ready to post a big long diatribe about it, but basically Waze exists, Laser/Lidar guns exist, and there's way too much crap out there to make getting a radar detector worth it. Don't drive like an idiot, know your area (you won't get pulled over in TX for anything less than 10% over), and pay a lawyer to make the moving violation go away if you do get busted. Save the 600 bucks for something else.
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Apr 4, 2021 23:10
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Krakkles posted:Always buy a Valentine One. The newer model they now have on offer has mitigation in place for those nuisance signals. Thanks for the advice. V1 is exactly what I was leaning toward already, just wanted to avoid digging through radar forums to see if maybe theres something better around nowadays. Btw I dont really speed much, certainly not in the city anyway. I have other reasons to want to avoid getting pulled over. And red light cameras are treacherous whether you run lights or not btw (and to be clear, I dont). Weve got extra short yellow lights in the city to help drive revenue, its a whole mess and it ultimately makes intersections a lot less safe, but anywaymy purpose for knowing about them in advance is to approach them with extra caution. Thanks again. skipdogg posted:Possible unpopular opinion: Radar detectors are basically worthless these days. Thanks for this too. I think its solid advice, and fwiw I already do all of these things, but Ive been driving with a radar detector ticket-free (and more importantly, police-interaction-free) for going on seven years now and Id feel naked without one. Just hoping that a new V1 will be less annoying with respect to false alerts than these older units. If it is, Ill buy a second one, and if not then I guess Ill just deal with it. new friend from school fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Apr 4, 2021 |
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Apr 4, 2021 23:12
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skipdogg posted:you won't get pulled over in TX for anything less than 10% over That's absolutely up to the cop; I've been stopped for 2 over on a 35.
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Apr 5, 2021 00:33
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Speaking of speed, is there anything that could make the needle on a cable driven speedometer bounce around? My 93 Capri used to bounce a bit at low speeds, but now it's going +/-10mph no matter what and is messing with the cruise control
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Apr 5, 2021 00:54
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You gotta lube it up. I'm not sure exactly where you do it. I think you use white lithium, but there might be a special grease for it too. I bet there are videos on YouTube. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 00:59
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new friend from school posted:And red light cameras are treacherous whether you run lights or not btw (and to be clear, I dont). Weve got extra short yellow lights in the city to help drive revenue, its a whole mess and it ultimately makes intersections a lot less safe, but anywaymy purpose for knowing about them in advance is to approach them with extra caution. Thanks again. Bear in mind that whether you think the yellow is too short or not has absolutely no bearing on whether or not you ran a red. If you entered the intersection when the light was red, you ran a red. If you dont do that, my experience has been that the cameras dont do anything to you. Granted, Im sure cameras somewhere probably ticketed people erroneously, but I consider it an error because I think the yellow should be longer aint it. new friend from school posted:Just hoping that a new V1 will be less annoying with respect to false alerts than these older units. If it is, Ill buy a second one, and if not then I guess Ill just deal with it. (I cant remember if the BT module actually does it or just lets you configure the V1 itself to do it, but who cares)
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Apr 5, 2021 01:43
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STR posted:That's absolutely up to the cop; I've been stopped for 2 over on a 35. Yes and no. It's nearly impossible to win against even the most half hearted defense if you are writing for minor amounts over. "Minor" depends on the technology used to determine the speed. The more it involves the officers discretion/reflexes (like vascar or pacing) the more useless it is. This of course requires someone with enough time and money to show up in court and/or pay for someone to do that for them.
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Apr 5, 2021 02:35
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skipdogg posted:Possible unpopular opinion: Radar detectors are basically worthless these days. Ive been pulled over for going less than 5 over. Ive also been pulled over for briefly going over the speed limit to pass an 18-wheeler. Sometimes a cop just loves pulling motherfuckers over. I got pulled over in one county by a sheriff deputy for not having a front license plate on a car that had no place for one and I had it in my windshield. But driving around in my own town, the cops there have never once given a gently caress about it. So yeah like one other person said, it depends on the cop and the county or city even. In my own experience, the smaller the town or more sparsely populated the county, the more likely they are sticklers about the speed limit That said, overall its rare here in TX to get pulled over for going 5mph over the limit, when I get to use cruise control I set it at 5 over and its been years since I was stopped, much less ticketed
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Apr 5, 2021 02:54
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Krakkles fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Mar 16, 2022 |
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Apr 5, 2021 04:15
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Charles posted:You gotta lube it up. I'm not sure exactly where you do it. I think you use white lithium, but there might be a special grease for it too. I bet there are videos on YouTube. Something of that age likely has an electronic speed sensor on the back of the speedometer, assuming it is a cable driven speedometer. That's how it worked on my 91 Integra and 88 Accord, anyway.  I don't know much about how it worked on cars much older than that.
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Apr 5, 2021 05:00
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Krakkles posted:In what way are they treacherous if you don’t run reds? Cities have absolutely been caught shortening yellow light times when implementing cameras. It's the equivalent of podunk towns dropping the speed limit on a short stretch of highway just to collect more ticket revenue.
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Apr 5, 2021 05:27
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Not necessarily relevant here but there was one red light camera in my town that was loving notorious for going off when cars weren't in the intersection too. Granted, you can fight it assuming the camera doesn't catch you doing anything else illegal but it's still a pain in the rear end. One of the two tickets I've ever gotten in my life was a speed camera ticket, except it was my mother, in her minivan, I have to assume it came to me because I was the last person to have gotten pulled over in it. I got out of it by sending in a letter contesting it by saying "I'm a 20-year-old man, this is a middle aged woman, whoever wrote this needs their eyes checked" although I'm sure it's automated. I've considered getting a radar detector before, I'd argue there's one big safety reason for it. Going on the highway at whatever the flow of traffic is (5 over here, 20 over on the east coast), the people five cars in front of you see a cop and slam on their brakes, then all the other cars slam on their brakes, then you have to do the same. Or, if they still have detectable speed guns you get warned ahead of time and slow down so it's not a brake check. I live in the mountains now, though, and up here I doubt it would even work right it would have to bounce of so many rock walls before it got from the cop to me.
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Apr 5, 2021 05:53
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Krakkles posted:In what way are they treacherous if you don’t run reds? If it helps, think of the traffic light programmers as cops. I say that because you're absolutely right on your other post above, so it's surprising that your response on this is to follow the law. Sometimes the law is enforced wrong. (or unjust to begin with). It's useful to know if it's a red light cam, it can be the difference in anticipating it turning red extra hard vs normal because of the choices of the state. In its worst case it means blasting the brakes when it turns yellow and at its best its slowing down before it turns yellow in case you need to stop quickly. Generally running yellows even if it turns red when you enter the intersection doesn't hurt anyone.
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Apr 5, 2021 05:58
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StormDrain posted:Generally running yellows even if it turns red when you enter the intersection doesn't hurt anyone. I mean, that's in accordance with both the spirit and letter of the law.
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Apr 5, 2021 07:07
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Not sure if this would be more appropriate here or in the detailing thread, but.. I have JDM HID headlights on my car (2003 Subaru Outback) - these are a factory option in Japan. Well, had. The light output started going to poo poo, plus one of them would flicker occasionally, so I'm back on the USDM halogens. I just tried plugging one of the JDM ones in (remember these are a factory offering in Japan, so not a lovely aftermarket HID kit...and I've painted the RHD "tick" on the reflector to avoid blinding people). Saw this...  All of that is on the inside of the plastic cover - I'm assuming UV degradation, since (a) it really looks like a whole bunch of tiny cracks and (b) HID bulbs do put out a bit of UV compared to halogens (and these housing are made to accept either halogen or D2R bulbs, according to the marks on them). Is there any saving those covers, or should I just junkyard some USDM lights and swap the covers? (I want to keep the originals on hand, I'd rather not rip them apart) It's not fog, or condensation, or anything like that - it's cracks on the inside of the cover. I also have 3M Windo-Weld on hand, which I think will seal them up at least as good as new. Downside to swapping USDM covers is losing the clear corners (I keep amber bulbs in there anyway, but like the look without the amber reflector). I've also had them apart to cover up the 2 facets of the reflector that cause the RHD tick, so getting them back apart might be.... interesting (didn't use Windo-Weld that time, at least!). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 09:06
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IOwnCalculus posted:Cities have absolutely been caught shortening yellow light times when implementing cameras. It's the equivalent of podunk towns dropping the speed limit on a short stretch of highway just to collect more ticket revenue. StormDrain posted:If it helps, think of the traffic light programmers as cops. I say that because you're absolutely right on your other post above, so it's surprising that your response on this is to follow the law. Sometimes the law is enforced wrong. (or unjust to begin with). I 100% agree that whatever the law is, it's often just bad, and often enforced badly, because of course it is, ACAB. Red camera lights are bad, but I have a bigger problem with people running red lights than I do with people getting caught running red lights. However, drivers should not do things that will obviously lead to driving into each other - I don't question that, and I don't think you do either. Better or worse, red lights are, broadly, how we've decided to take turns. Driving through them is almost entirely avoidable - sure, if they shortened the yellow, you might well make a mistake. If you're worried about it happening more often than that, you probably need to re-evaluate how you're driving. Anecdotes are roughly meaningless, but in 20+ years of driving all across this country, I can count the number of red lights I've run on one hand, and have six fingers left over. But only on my left hand. Basically, my point was this: Krakkles posted:If you entered the intersection when the light was red, you ran a red. Actually, now that I think about it, my point was really "Since when do red light cameras trigger radar detectors?". That was why I originally questioned the original poster.
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Apr 5, 2021 10:00
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Krakkles posted:
Mine uses GPS and a database to tell me where red light cameras are.
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Apr 5, 2021 14:22
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Oh, that makes sense. I'd still rather have a V1, but now I know that's a thing!
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Apr 5, 2021 14:42
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Heyyyyyy I did something dumb and left my wifes car in the driveway without driving or maintaining it for like 3 months. Went to start it up the other day and the battery was completely dead. I bought a new one, and Im fully ready to replace the dead one with the new one as Ive done that several times before in the past. But unfortunately the corrosion is making it very difficult to get the old one out. This is after cleaning it with a little baking soda and water. Also the guy at Autozone used a little cleaner, but I think he made a pretty mediocre attempt. Honestly I cant even tell whats the terminal and whats the battery. My question is, can I extract this battery myself somehow or have I hosed up to the point where I need to take it to our mechanic and maybe get a new terminal (or is that also something I could do myself?) The car is a 2010 Volvo S40 if that matters. TIA Car Goons!
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Apr 5, 2021 15:30
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How the gently caress does that happen to a 2010 MY car? VVV: Very humid climate or live by the sea then? MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 16:36
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I had basically the same thing happen to my partner's 2017 car. It's a pandemic, if you actually (can and do) stay home like we all should, it's pretty easy for that to happen. You're on the right track with baking soda and water - I like to use warm water, and you need to get in there with an old toothbrush and scrub scrub scrub. You'll need to focus on the right side of the terminal in the picture - I.e., opposite the wire - and there's an upside down T-shaped bolt attached to that nut. In my case, I had to knock that bolt loose from the terminal to get it to release the terminal. If I was doing it again, loosen the nut but do not remove, tap the top of the bolt with a hammer. Up to you how much you clean before that point, but the more you clean, the easier it should be.
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Apr 5, 2021 16:49
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MrOnBicycle posted:How the gently caress does that happen to a 2010 MY car? Krakkles posted:I had basically the same thing happen to my partner's 2017 car. It's a pandemic, if you actually (can and do) stay home like we all should, it's pretty easy for that to happen. Well that's good to hear; I honestly couldn't tell if it was fully fused or not since it's hard to see what's going on there with all the corrosion. Also the bit of scrubbing I did on Saturday didn't seem to be doing much so I was losing faith, but I was also kind of over doing car stuff that day and didn't put in a very concerted effort. I'll take another crack at it today and try it whole-assed. Thanks for weighing in!
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Apr 5, 2021 16:56
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timp posted:Well that's good to hear; I honestly couldn't tell if it was fully fused or not since it's hard to see what's going on there with all the corrosion. Also the bit of scrubbing I did on Saturday didn't seem to be doing much so I was losing faith, but I was also kind of over doing car stuff that day and didn't put in a very concerted effort. I'll take another crack at it today and try it whole-assed. Thanks for weighing in! Here's the picture from when I had to fix the same basic issue on the 2017:
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Apr 5, 2021 17:23
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Some helpful tips for avoiding running red lights and also cops**: If you're coming up to an intersection and you don't know if the green is about to change, look at the pedestrian signal if there is one. Is it counting down? Or is the don't walk signal flashing*? Is the Don't walk signal solid and not flashing? If so the light might change before you get there so the obvious solution is to floor that poo poo. *supposedly* around here if you are going faster than a certain speed, when the light is red and you hit the red light camera sensors it will trigger the camera. If you're going slow enough, it will *allegedly* not trigger them. Its supposed to be 20kmh+ here, but don't quote me on that, so run red lights, but do it slowly. Avoiding cops: Don't drive something that stands out. No shiny rims, or jacked up bro-mobiles. Blend in. Camoflage yourself. If your car is an old beat rear end pile of poo poo, at the very least keep it clean. Obviously being a white guy helps, cause all them non-whites are up to no good. This guy wants to gently caress your day up. ** Note that I'm an average looking white guy which helps. * I don't know about other places, but here in Ontario, a solid don't walk symbol means don't walk, other places a flashing one might mean don't walk. Always know your traffic signals.
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Apr 5, 2021 17:47
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Well I got the tranny from my Fit/Jazz out with the help of a friend who's a real-deal mechanic. The transmission disassembly went fairly smoothly and I replaced the known to fail front input shaft bearing without any issues. It was slightly noisy. I then decided to check the other bearing, which I don't have and everyone said is usually fine. It's not. https://i.imgur.com/89kPqbj.mp4 (sound, obviously) Also the outside of the bearing seems to turn inside the transmission housing if I spin it faster or maybe apply more pressure, though not in this clip sadly. Some of the balls seem to be damaged pretty badly.  The thing is, I hammered the other one through the input shaft hole, but this one is sealed in there. There's also some sort of plasticky thing in there which obstructs the center hole. Any ideas on how to pull it out? E: Just realized what I actually said. If the outside spins too, it can't be pressed in too tightly. I ordered the replacement and will try just prying it with one of those seal removal hooks. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 18:56
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Charles posted:You gotta lube it up. I'm not sure exactly where you do it. I think you use white lithium, but there might be a special grease for it too. I bet there are videos on YouTube. One of the first results on YouTube uses my transmission, so that's convenient. It doesn't look like it completely fixes the problem, based on the video, but anything is better than what I've got going on now. I never really thought about how my CC actually worked, but it's kind of funny that I could deal with a speedometer that didn't tell me any useful information, but my CC surging, that was a bridge too far
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Apr 5, 2021 19:23
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STR posted:Rockauto has the correct one for $85. ONLY ONE REMAINING!!1! I wanted a grill or something off rockauto and it was under $100 for the part. But they wanted close to $200 for shipping. I got probably the same exact plastic thing off ebay for $140ish.  be careful at checkout ppl.
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Apr 5, 2021 22:03
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Alright, here's a dumb question. I had a strut on my '17 Golf replaced under warranty. Right after that, I had to hold the wheel significantly to the right. The dealer told me that was because they hadn't performed an alignment. They did, and now I have to hold the wheel to the right. So I'm curious, would the new strut's ride height normally affect an alignment like that? Is it any sign I should replace the other too? I guess that's an assumption that it is the ride height, but alignments have always confused me. The car's got 60,000 miles on it, so they're not fresh by any means. I am going back to hopefully get the wheel straightened, and hopefully get a spec sheet this time. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Apr 6, 2021 |
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Apr 6, 2021 01:01
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So just how long were you running around after the repair that absolutely requires an alignment? Because it sounds like your front tires are trashed now. Or they aligned it wrong. Or both.
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Apr 6, 2021 01:27
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Motronic posted:So just how long were you running around after the repair that absolutely requires an alignment? Because it sounds like your front tires are trashed now. Or they aligned it wrong. Or both. Really not that long I hope. It was less than 80 miles on my winter tires and about 100 on my all seasons.
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Apr 6, 2021 02:26
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timp posted:
Update: cleaned it off real nice and easily got the old battery out and replaced it with a new one. Easy peasy!
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Apr 6, 2021 02:37
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Hey AI, need some input and maybe some problem solving. I recently sent the ECU from my 2001 Corvette off to be mail order tuned to account for some mods. I got it back today like this: (The gouged lip of the connector, not the corrosion. That part was already there) Unless I'm wrong about how this plug interfaces, this will never form a watertight connection as-is. Even better, the ECU sits behind the front wheel covered by an entirely unsealed panel. From what I can tell, the plug is part of the ECU itself and not the housing / heatsink portion. Any ideas on how to unfuck this? I don't exactly drive the car in the rain regularly, but would rather not have to cringe every time I drive through a puddle. The male end of the connector if it makes a difference: 
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Apr 6, 2021 05:14
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Seems to me that unfucking it will entail getting the place that broke your stuff to replace it.
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Apr 6, 2021 05:18
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I had a car (unplanned) sit for about 9 months. Aside from changing the oil (already changing the coolant since it's a radiator that kept it from moving for so long) what else should i take check/replace? Also, rotors were in good shape prior to parking it, will I be alright just braking the rust off them, or should I get the rotors resurfaced?
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Apr 6, 2021 05:30
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Generally speaking, what kind of maintenance issues are more time based than mileage based? I ask because my 13 year old NC has only 29k miles on it. I did all the fluids immediately just so I'd know when they had been done, but nothing else is due, if you're going only by mileage.
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Apr 6, 2021 06:08
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tactlessbastard posted:Generally speaking, what kind of maintenance issues are more time based than mileage based? I ask because my 13 year old NC has only 29k miles on it. I did all the fluids immediately just so I'd know when they had been done, but nothing else is due, if you're going only by mileage.
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Apr 6, 2021 07:33
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WTFBEES posted:Hey AI, need some input and maybe some problem solving. I recently sent the ECU from my 2001 Corvette off to be mail order tuned to account for some mods. I got it back today like this: Uthor posted:Seems to me that unfucking it will entail getting the place that broke your stuff to replace it. Either this or it was damaged in shipping, in which case, you insured your $$$ ECU when shipping it, right?
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Apr 6, 2021 10:00
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