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Krakkles posted:Top edge of the door / window frame. Ohhhhh...now that you point it out (I'm sure it's super obvious in person) that really does look a lot better.
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Apr 11, 2021 01:11
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Imperador do Brasil posted:New wheels on the Si sedan. I’ve had it over two years on stock wheels for summer, which is some sort of record for me. 17x8 Enkei RPF1 and 235/4517 G-Max RS tires. Significantly lighter than the stock setup, about 10lb per corner. Sup rpf1 buddy. Just switched to 17x9s with hankook rs4s  
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Apr 11, 2021 01:21
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Motronic posted:Ohhhhh...now that you point it out (I'm sure it's super obvious in person) that really does look a lot better. I’ll try to get better pics another day when my fingers aren’t scalded from hot vinyl. honda whisperer posted:Sup rpf1 buddy. Looks good! I thought about going wider but I wanted to keep the weight down, and my fuel economy with 235’s is like 38-40mpg with the 19.5/23.5psi tune; I’d really like to keep it up there. I debated going with black but my other Si and my S2000 have black wheels so I rolled the dice on gold and I have to say I’m diggin’ it.
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Apr 11, 2021 01:55
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Looks good! I thought about going wider but I wanted to keep the weight down, and my fuel economy with 235’s is like 38-40mpg with the 19.5/23.5psi tune; I’d really like to keep it up there. The gold looks great so good call. I debated the 235s but was mostly motivated by autox so I went bigger. Also the brz has surprisingly poo poo fuel economy anyway.
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Apr 11, 2021 02:19
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My new-to-me Saab convertible was distressingly dark at night, zero lights on the interior until the ignition is turned on or the map lights are switched on. The fuse was fine, but the middle light just in front of the soft roof wasn't coming on, that was a loose wire. That happy easy win led me to investigate other lights, and I got the glovebox light working, too - with some accidental parts-dropping as well, of course. There's a little bracket or holder behind the glovebox light that is now rattling around behind the dashboard trim, I guess I'll re-seat it when/if I ever take apart the passenger side. When I went to the boot light I discovered it was missing the bulb. Off to the parts shop and the replacement light didn't work. Somehow, messing with the boot light blew the 7.5a fuse for the interior lights (and for the retractable antenna, jammed since the PO bought the car). So, I found an electrical gremlin. I *could* dive into the weird world of Swedish electrics, or I could just buy a $5 battery-powered stick-on light and put that into the boot, and ignore the jammed-retracted antenna because we never listen to broadcast radio anyways. I'm gonna go with plan B, that a couple of accessories at the back-left corner don't work is not a problem I really need to properly solve. I do need to figure out the left headlight, though. It points too far up and I found the reflector is a bit loose in the housing. The right side light is solid and seems to be aimed roughly correctly. I think I can half-rear end it by wedging something under the rear of the left-side reflector assembly, which would tilt it down by a few degrees. I also need to pull the head unit, it's a (pretty good) JVC aftermarket double-DIN unit and I suspect a similar loose wire is the reason for the silent right-side speakers. I am deleriously happy that all of the issues with this 23-year-old weirdo are so trivial. Presumably, the transmission will fall out the same time the roof tears in half and the steering goes to poo poo, probably in mid-September right after the registration is due to be renewed.
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Apr 11, 2021 02:41
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Brushed off (some of) the snow and took the FJ62 to Costco to buy a freezer. This is why I love older vehicles; they actually have usable interior space:
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Apr 11, 2021 05:55
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I bought a 1995 Ford E-150 Econoline with 188K miles on it that was converted by Explorer into a camper. The plan is to fix it up a bit and do some fishing and camping in semi-style this summer. It was pretty cheap and knew I'd have some work to do. I know next to nothing about repairing cars, but I figured I (probably) can't make it irreparably worse. I've managed to change the oil, oil filter, air filter, coolant flush and refill, really basic stuff.   The first actual thing I tried to fix was the electric seat. From everything I can find on the internet, the '95 E-150 did not come standard with electric seats, but it was added by Explorer Van as part of the conversion. The driving position the seat is currently in is untenable, it's rear end down to the floor and knees up in the steering wheel. The forward and back motion works fine, but the tilt buttons would have the motor give a little grunt and then do nothing. Ended up taking the whole seat apart, removing the motors and hitting them with contact cleaner, lubricating the little springy drive shafts, reassembling and...nothing. Forward back still works great, no tilt. Took it apart again, figuring maybe the gears inside the housing are seized up. Hit it all with some PB B'Laster to lube everything up and it seems the internal gears/drives are just fine since I used a square driver to at least get the seat into a more comfortable position and it offered no protest. I'm pretty sure motor 1 & 3 are just bad and I've reached the end of my diagnostic ability. I'd like to replace the whole thing, but since it was non-standard for the year and model, the closest I can find is the Motorcraft MM-951, which first went onto 2003 Lincoln Towncars, so that doesn't feel right either. There is a label on the front of the motor, but it has a bunch of numbers that don't seem to mean much. At least my legs won't go numb tooling around.   Today, I had some more time to kill, so I thought I'd give a stab at fixing the turn signal indicator on the dashboard. I got the correct bulb from O'Reilly's and figured this would be an easy win. Nope! Turns out you have to remove the internal engine cover, the ashtray, and a shitload of plastic trim to actually get at the dash lights. Finally, all this stuff is off and I manage to remove the old bulb and install a new one into the twist lock. Before bolting anything back together I put the ignition into the ON position and tested the turn signal dash indicator. SUCCESS! Happy with my win, but slightly miffed at Ford for how complicated the dash is to take apart, I put it all back together aaaaand, now the turn signal doesn't work at all. Not just the internal dash lights, but the entire turn signal, front and back on the outside of the car...gently caress. I also managed to lose two bolts that secure the dials and light panel to the dash frame. It was getting dark, so I put all my tools away, drove it around the block (using hand signals to indicate my turns now) to park it in front of the house. I'll have another go at this some other time, maybe tomorrow or next weekend. Pray for me.   
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Apr 11, 2021 06:10
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Ha, Explorer is about 30 minutes west of me, on the way to Chicago. Back in the day that lot was overflowing with vans. These days it's maybe a quarter full. Guess conversion vans ain't so popular anymore.
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Apr 11, 2021 08:18
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It was actually yesterday, but I got my semi-annual alignment and brake fluid/clutch flushed. Then went to the car wash. Of course its raining today.
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Apr 11, 2021 14:39
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chrisgt posted:Claybarred and waxed the metro. So shiny, so smooth (and the loving water drop off the mirror the same second i took the picture...) I really need to do that on the Outback. Given how the nose polished up when I removed the wind deflector patches, it should come up nicely.
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Apr 12, 2021 16:50
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kastein posted:That sounds like the hydraulics are hosed up. My second Forester was like that and I had to replace a few things. It's felt this way since it was new, and the porter at the Toyota dealership told me every mid=00s manual Corolla that comes in feels about the same.  (he's the only porter they have that can drive stick)I don't drive it much - likely going to sell both to try and get into something newer sometime this year. I've actively tried to kill Brokeback and it just keeps kicking, but it still has issues. I just flat out don't like the Matrix even though it's in good shape mechanically.
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Apr 12, 2021 17:21
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Diff and trans fluid on the S2000. This was one of those where I said “it can’t possibly be that easy” when I looked it up, and well...it really is just that easy. Took about 35 minutes including jacking the car up and pumping MTF into the trans and gear oil into the diff with a hand pump. No stuck fill or drain plugs for once. Trans got Honda Genuine MTF and the diff got Mobil1 75w-90. Both got new OEM Honda crush washers. I can’t imagine what the dealer charges for the two services but I did it for $38 in fluids, washers and the hand pump I didn’t have.
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Apr 12, 2021 17:39
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Diff and trans fluid on the S2000. This was one of those where I said “it can’t possibly be that easy” when I looked it up, and well...it really is just that easy. Took about 35 minutes including jacking the car up and pumping MTF into the trans and gear oil into the diff with a hand pump. No stuck fill or drain plugs for once. Yeah, it's super simple. Gravity bleeding the brakes is super easy too. I had to buy all of the stuff you did as well as the wrench for one of the fill plugs as it was a somewhat weird size I didn't have in socket or wrench form.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:21
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good ol 23mm diff fill bolt
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Apr 12, 2021 18:24
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The last time I did a trans and diff change on the Miata, I found the washer on the ground a few days later. Oops. It never leaked so hopefully it's not completely rusted to the case either.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:29
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I did some stuff Darchangel posted:So, for this episode, we start with the pile of front suspension in the back yard: That's the shorter, edited version, if you can believe it. More detail, mainly about how my media blaster was being a pain, at the actual post on my thread.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:53
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BlackMK4 posted:good ol 23mm diff fill bolt I had a 23 box wrench in the toolbox amazingly. The trans being a 17 for the fill and just a 3/8 square for the drain was also brain-dead easy.
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Apr 12, 2021 19:11
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I had a 23 box wrench in the toolbox amazingly. Careful with square drives for Japanese drain plugs. That's actually a 10mm plug, which is just bigger than 3/8, same goes for the 13mm plugs, they're just a bit over a 1/2" drive. Putting a socket extension in them works if they're not too stuck, but I learned the hard way that it's a great way to turn a square drive into a round drive.
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Apr 12, 2021 19:36
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BlackMK4 posted:good ol 23mm diff fill bolt Yup, that's it. I think ended up at a Sears that was the last remaining store in a defunct mall to grab a Craftsman one because I couldn't find it anywhere else locally.
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Apr 12, 2021 20:19
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The last set of tires I had on the Saab had one tire that would (slowly) loose pressure. I had a couple tire shops try to fix it to no avail. Last year I got new tires. Low and behold, one has a slow leak. I wasn't driving much, so I kind of suffered along just filling it when I needed to drive. When I swapped the tires/wheels for my winter set, I took that one mounted tire in to the tire shop I've been going to who normally does good work. I told them, "This one has a slow leak, it did it with the previous set of tires on this same wheels, so I think it may be the wheel itself." Pull the wheel out to swap out the winter tires again and notice it didn't hold pressure. Figure maybe a fluke, fill it, wait a week, lost about 5-6 psi. Clearly professionals cannot be trusted to diagnose things: https://i.imgur.com/vdDUTYW.mp4 https://i.imgur.com/1gyZNtH.mp4 Filled a big tub with water, dunk tire, carefully look at the whole thing. While these are 16+ year old wheels, they spent most of their life in North Carolina and even now in Michigan, don't get driven in winter. So maybe a casting issue? Not sure. Either way, new wheel on the way.
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Apr 14, 2021 12:04
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nadmonk posted:The last set of tires I had on the Saab had one tire that would (slowly) loose pressure. I had a couple tire shops try to fix it to no avail. Is it cracked, or just a pinhole in the casting? You're a better person than me, I'd just scuff up the inside and put a blob of JB weld over the hole...
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Apr 14, 2021 15:09
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I'd probably piss some brakleen on it and gob on some black rtv 
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Apr 14, 2021 18:18
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chrisgt posted:Is it cracked, or just a pinhole in the casting? You're a better person than me, I'd just scuff up the inside and put a blob of JB weld over the hole... No crack I could see. It looked like it was from at least a few different pinholes.
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Apr 14, 2021 18:35
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nadmonk posted:No crack I could see. It looked like it was from at least a few different pinholes. Can you drill it, tap it and thread in a plug? You'd have to do another 180-off to keep it balanced 
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Apr 14, 2021 19:08
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Boys who love boys
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monsterzero posted:Can you drill it, tap it and thread in a plug? You'd have to do another 180-off to keep it balanced I doubt that would add too much weight, wheel weights would correct it. I'd still scuff up the inside and JB weld the thing... If it's coming from multiple places, it could very well be a crack, though.
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Apr 14, 2021 20:30
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Most sketch shops I've seen just take some quality 3m silicone and lay a nice dab inside above the pinhole. Same stuff most 3 piece wheel companies glue their barrels together with.
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Apr 14, 2021 20:36
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Agree with spyder on silicone, but if you get in there and find any evidence of a crack toss the thing in the trash
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Apr 14, 2021 20:38
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Drill and tap it and use it as an excuse to install a CTIS connected to it
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Apr 14, 2021 22:17
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nadmonk posted:The last set of tires I had on the Saab had one tire that would (slowly) loose pressure. I had a couple tire shops try to fix it to no avail. LOL that you think the goobers at tire stores are "professionals."
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Apr 14, 2021 23:51
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Darchangel posted:LOL that you think the goobers at tire stores are "professionals." The last place I took it to is a local shop that has always done really good work and has a good rep. Guess they can't all be wins.
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Apr 15, 2021 12:41
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Been cleaning the interior and doing some stone chip repair on my Optima as I'm going to try to sell it asap. Was on a good run so decided to do some stuff to the S10 and managed to curb my stupid project creep. It won't ever be perfect, nor does it warrant a frame off restoration or anything silly like that. So I decided to call the rust removal I've done good enough and soaked everything in Dinitrol rust proofer. The rust is has is maily of the scaly stuff, the frame is solid. The Dinitrol should help to postpone any further rust. Now I only need to get the exhaust bolts off and mount it, then it's off to inspection (lapsed since I haven't had the time to do it).
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Apr 17, 2021 20:55
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New rotors and pads up front for the FiST Ben going through a lot and didn't pay attention long enough that I had to use BRAKEBEST PREMIUM CERAMIC PADS because I can't wait for them to be shipped At 50 bucks a set they are vastly overpriced. They are poo poo. I hate them. But they work. And I can drive again. So I'm pretty happy.
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Apr 17, 2021 21:52
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A small but significant change-new side markers. I wouldn’t have paid a ton of $ for these but at under $20 I think it was worth it. 
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Apr 17, 2021 21:52
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I started putting in new struts today. Given how often I’m interrupted by my children/life/wife, I’m curious to see how long this takes me and what else I ruin in the process. Having said that, the first side came out shockingly fast. 
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Apr 17, 2021 22:07
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 Tried my hand at vinyl wrapping. Complex curves suck. It doesn't look bad from 20ft. I really just wanted to see how it looked. Probably end up scuffing it down and painting it.
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Apr 17, 2021 23:10
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Looks great with the black top
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Apr 17, 2021 23:33
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I replaced the fuel sock in the Miata since common wisdom says that these things shouldn't fuel starve below 1.5G sustained even making pretty good power, but I was dropping from 60psi to 40-50psi on 1.3G sustained left turns. I like what Mazda did with the front quarter of the tank being a sump and it looks like the OEM fuel sock is designed to trap a pretty decent amount of fuel in it. The sock on it was probably some kind of aftermarket piece of poo poo. Honda had the chance to copy this tank setup for the S2000, instead they came up with some dumb bowl design that you can reliably starve on 200tw tires with a sustained left, wtf     
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Apr 18, 2021 03:22
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Following up from above. I actually completed all of this in about 4-5 hours. Old and new  All back together. I really don't like using spring compressors.  Back in the car.  Wheel gap.  Thankfully, it came down after a test drive. E: I'm interested in vinyl wrapping the CHROME grill on my wife's car. For those of you that have done this can you give me some pointers to get started ie quality/value wrap material, technique, or videos. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 14:39
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Depending on the geometry of it, black plastidip may be easier and just as reversible. Post a pic.
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Apr 18, 2021 18:04
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EvilBeard posted:
I love it, but I also love fourthgen Camaros since my dad had one in that exact red/black combo.
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Apr 18, 2021 18:34
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