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 love 2 work on bikes
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Apr 11, 2021 00:06
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Shelvocke posted:I also really like my Hagon, didn't know you could get them in the US. Both Hagon and YSS have a US distributor with kickin rad websites. You can also get them shipped from the EU on ebay. Sagebrush posted:- replaced the front wheel bearings Nice! The Hawk does have a very good stock front brake setup that is pretty loving great with some stainless lines. For the subframe remove that lower bolt, sand the rusty bits, slip some newspaper behind for overspray, then touch it up with Dupli-Color DE1650 Cast Coat Aluminum. The top bolts will hold the subframe but prop it up with something on the rear tire it will sag a bit.
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Apr 11, 2021 03:06
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Bold new graphics Just got done priming the front brakes so I haven't had a chance to do anything other than boing the front end in the garage but...it's going to be good.
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Apr 11, 2021 04:05
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I love it
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Apr 11, 2021 05:05
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Gorson posted:Bold new graphics How do the emulators interact with the trac? Do you just disable it entirely?
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Apr 11, 2021 05:59
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Slavvy posted:How do the emulators interact with the trac? Do you just disable it entirely? Yeah totally disables it. Going from a .37kg spring stock to a .80 straight rate spring is going to eliminate so much dive it makes TRAC unnecessary. The TRAC damper rods have two thin spacers at the bottom separated by a spring instructions were to remove and discard:  I'm also not going to run any air in these, though I did leave the short upper springs in place and made up the difference between main spring lengths with a spacer. I can always remove that upper spring later and replace it with a spacer. Best option here would be to remove the air fork caps and put some with adjustable preload on them instead.
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Apr 11, 2021 11:36
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On the docket for my lazy Sunday: Also bought a concealable 12v -> 5v USB adapter to wire in parallel with the in-dash USB ports so I can get rid of the cable running from my cockpit to the fork stem. I can route the rest of that stuff under and between plastics where it’s less of an eyesore. I guess that really eliminates the only reason I’d ever need an in-dash USB port since I’m not sure what else I’d ever plug into my bike at this point.
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Apr 11, 2021 16:39
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Speaking of chargers and stuff. I'd like to add some leads to my battery for a trickle charger. I'd also like to add a USB port for my phone, and maybe a handlebar mount for said phone. Is there any kind of solution where the USB port can connect to the battery leads? And uhhh I'm just not sure where to begin.
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Apr 11, 2021 18:29
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Speaking of chargers and stuff. I'd like to add some leads to my battery for a trickle charger. I'd also like to add a USB port for my phone, and maybe a handlebar mount for said phone. Is there any kind of solution where the USB port can connect to the battery leads? And uhhh I'm just not sure where to begin. yes. get battery tender leads for your battery, then just get plugs for whatever the hell you want to run off your battery. easiest way to have something removeable so you aren't that godawful PO who positaps their headlights or something else lol stuff is all available on amazon
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Apr 11, 2021 18:34
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right arm posted:yes. get battery tender leads for your battery, then just get plugs for whatever the hell you want to run off your battery. easiest way to have something removeable so you aren't that godawful PO who positaps their headlights or something else lol This works, but I still say you're better off running a relay from head/tail light (whichever's closer/easier) so that the charger etc is only powered when the bike is on (headlight is even better for this when you've got a modern bike with automatic lights so you're only draining when the engine is actually running). Also it's always worth checking, if you *do* have a modern bike, to see if it actually has an accessory socket already wired in - buried away in the wiring diagram for MY DUCATI was the fact there's a perfectly usable switched 7.5A socket tucked away under the fuel tank as well as the pre-installed battery tender cable under the seat, which is handy because the battery box is in a bloody annoying place.
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Apr 11, 2021 18:55
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Gorson posted:Yeah totally disables it. Going from a .37kg spring stock to a .80 straight rate spring is going to eliminate so much dive it makes TRAC unnecessary. The TRAC damper rods have two thin spacers at the bottom separated by a spring instructions were to remove and discard: When you say upper springs, do you mean the wing has two springs in compound so as to create a rising rate type of effect? I'm picturing the smaller spring sitting where the preload spacer is on a normal bike. Unless you're referring to the ones in the picture in which case no don't take those out they are top-out springs and you really really need those.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:51
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Speaking of chargers and stuff. I'd like to add some leads to my battery for a trickle charger. I'd also like to add a USB port for my phone, and maybe a handlebar mount for said phone. Is there any kind of solution where the USB port can connect to the battery leads? And uhhh I'm just not sure where to begin. You can do it any number of ways. The most plug and play way I think is just to get a battery tender connector such as this: https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ And then you can get a USB end for it such as this https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4 And run a long USB cable under your bodywork. Mind you that’s not how I’d really do it. I’d probably just wire up a battery tender connection by itself, then wire a second “accessory” harness with a fuse and run that under your bodywork to the front of your bike and make all the connections there. What you’d be looking for is a 12v to 5v USB adapter such as: https://www.amazon.ca/Keenso-Waterproof-Converter-Charger-Motorcycle/dp/B07GC1NB43 These are all just example parts, you can interchange pretty much everything, except the battery tender connector is standard so at least get something that terminates into that if you want a tender.
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Apr 11, 2021 20:37
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Speaking of chargers and stuff. I'd like to add some leads to my battery for a trickle charger. I'd also like to add a USB port for my phone, and maybe a handlebar mount for said phone. Is there any kind of solution where the USB port can connect to the battery leads? And uhhh I'm just not sure where to begin. One of these (battery tender and battery hook up lead) https://www.optimate.co.uk/products/optimate-1-duo and either one of the below two will sort you out nicely (hooks up to the battery hook up lead): https://www.optimate.co.uk/products/o100-usb-charger https://www.optimate.co.uk/products/o108-usb-charger
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Apr 11, 2021 20:42
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goddamnedtwisto posted:This works, but I still say you're better off running a relay from head/tail light (whichever's closer/easier) so that the charger etc is only powered when the bike is on (headlight is even better for this when you've got a modern bike with automatic lights so you're only draining when the engine is actually running). This is advanced stuff; let him figure out regular ringlet-style hookups first. Baby steps!
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Apr 11, 2021 20:44
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Martytoof posted:On the docket for my lazy Sunday: Quadlock rules, but I had a hard time with the Qi charging lock screwing up my GPS. I haven't tried it on my new phone (iPhone 12), so let me know how you fare.
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Apr 11, 2021 20:46
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Steakandchips posted:This is advanced stuff; let him figure out regular ringlet-style hookups first. Baby steps! No, they're right, and I'm no stranger when it comes to mechanicals and vehicle electronics. I'd rather have something switched. Thanks for the help.
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Apr 11, 2021 20:53
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Nae bother mate. Post a trip report once you are done!
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Apr 11, 2021 20:56
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OK so here’s my Sunday Funday electrical adventure. The accessory harness to the front of the bike is OEM so I didn’t have to do any horrible magic to run anything to the front, but I did try to keep all my wiring removable, neat and tidy, and avoid the “meth head PO” wiring jobs you sometimes see. Everything heat shrink wrapped, 12v leads doubly so. Only thing I didn’t do was waterproof covers for the bullet connectors but what can you do. The other termination of this splice is the in-dash USB connector which I won’t be using for now, but I’ll keep powered anyway. No harm in that.  I velcro’d the 12v USB adapter to the inside of my windshield fairing stay. I’m probably using that term improperly. Expect me to keep using it improperly because I don’t know what else these pipes are called. Also ziptied the slack in the 12v supply cable to the fairing stay piping.  Speaking of zipties, I made liberal use of the fairing stay piping to hold everything down. Here’s a later shot of where I mounted the actual USB port (with the eventual mating of the Quadlock USB cable). Both sides are ziptied in place and hopefully won’t move. Not the end of the world if I have to figure out some other way to do this though.  Mounting the actual quadlock charger wasn’t even worth posting about, it’s literally just unscrew the old head, screw in the new one. I ran the cable down to some cable stays on my triple tree.  After checking how much slack I needed to get full lock range of motion, I ziptied the cable to the centre brace to keep the run somewhat out of sight.   Since I used the longer cable that came with the Quadlock I had to bundle the excess and ziptie it to yet another fairing stay (bonus shot of the original USB charger).  Anyway, surgery was success and was a really fun project. The hardest part was getting my hands behind fairings when I needed to. Taking the front plastic off would probably have been beneficial but   It’s just going to take a minute to get used to the new way of unclipping the phone. I struggled with it for a bit. E: Now that I look at the second photo, there’s a bit of a kink in the wiring leading to the velcroed usb adapter that I’m going to want to fix or reposition before I take it out riding long term. Didn’t notice that while I was going over everything before buttoning up the hood again. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 21:03
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goddamnedtwisto posted:This works, but I still say you're better off running a relay from head/tail light (whichever's closer/easier) so that the charger etc is only powered when the bike is on (headlight is even better for this when you've got a modern bike with automatic lights so you're only draining when the engine is actually running). I completely blanked on this, yeah, this is probably way better. I wired an ACC harness into my first 250 with a relay off .. something, probably license plate light.
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Apr 11, 2021 21:07
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Slavvy posted:When you say upper springs, do you mean the wing has two springs in compound so as to create a rising rate type of effect? I'm picturing the smaller spring sitting where the preload spacer is on a normal bike. Correct instead of a spacer taking up all the, uh, space between the fork spring and fork cap the Wing has another spring about 8" long. I'm not 100% why it's there. I left it in for now but it's right at the top of the fork so I can remove it easily and replace with another spacer. It's raining out today and the rear master is leaking so I need to swap the one from the non-linked 82 or just replace it with whatever but I did get a chance to ride it around a bit and just aimed for potholes and road imperfections. This thing just soaks them up now. Braking is vastly improved even without the rear.
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Apr 11, 2021 23:17
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What did I do to my ride today? Pumped half a tube of grease into it. Wheel bearings just took a few squeeze's but the forks took a shitlload. 7 grease nipples on this old bike. One for each wheel. One for each fork. One on the headbearing. One on the clutch shaft. One on the speedometer gear. I also lubed all the cables and cleaned the chain. Just waiting for a set of tires to get delivered. 2.75x19 and 3.25x19 are not common sizes these days but I was able to find a Canadian supplier. 
helno fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 23:32
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Gorson posted:Correct instead of a spacer taking up all the, uh, space between the fork spring and fork cap the Wing has another spring about 8" long. I'm not 100% why it's there. I left it in for now but it's right at the top of the fork so I can remove it easily and replace with another spacer. Ok yeah that is a factory rising rate setup. Whichever spring is the softest will take up most of the bump, if the bump/dive is too big, that spring binds and turns into a spacer, at which point the other, presumably much stiffer spring sets the rate. So you're currently still running a rising rate setup but the starting point is higher. If it were a sporty bike I'd say replace them with a piece of pipe but being a wing it'll probably add to the comfort without really affecting precision or whatever.
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Apr 12, 2021 02:05
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Martytoof posted:Mounting the actual quadlock charger Does that wireless quadlock charger have the vibration damper?
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Apr 12, 2021 03:13
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mewse posted:Does that wireless quadlock charger have the vibration damper? No, but they are compatible.
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Apr 12, 2021 07:47
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mewse posted:Does that wireless quadlock charger have the vibration damper? It doesn’t include one out of the box, but I had one from before and as SEKcobra mentioned they are compatible. Ultimately that’s my beater iPhone anyway and I don’t care if it gets trashed. It tethers to my actual useful phone in the pocket of my jacket. If the dampener->charger stack was too annoyingly high I had no qualms about removing the dampener, but thankfully it looks like it’s not a problem 
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Apr 12, 2021 11:57
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Sagebrush posted:- replaced the front wheel bearings I just really like how that bike looks. I've used these and this for cleaning/polishing chrome with a lot of luck. helno posted:What did I do to my ride today? Nice bike. What's the grease doing on the forks/where's it going?
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Apr 12, 2021 15:29
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Visited my folks' garage and started the Rex for the first time in months. I didn't drain the carbs this year because I was anticipating more regular visits to it but then lockdown and no indoor gatherings happened... Anyway after a bunch of cranking, all four cylinders are firing so that's an improvement over a couple years ago. I figure the gas in the float bowls dried up, hence the extended cranking, but as long as gas is now being supplied to the cylinders in an appropriate manner at all speeds I ain't opening those fuckers back up. Will give 'em a balance in the next couple weeks or so though.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:33
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Phy posted:Visited my folks' garage and started the Rex for the first time in months. I didn't drain the carbs this year because I was anticipating more regular visits to it but then lockdown and no indoor gatherings happened... Anyway after a bunch of cranking, all four cylinders are firing so that's an improvement over a couple years ago. Either dried up or it went....somewhere else 
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Apr 12, 2021 18:50
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builds character posted:I just really like how that bike looks. The Hawk is a timeless design. I've said before and still firmly believe that Honda could dust off the old tooling, make the following changes: - ABS - modern shock and forks - fuel injection - LED lights - 10mm wider front wheel and keep the bike otherwise identical and still sell the crap out of them today. Please hire me Hachigo-san
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Apr 12, 2021 19:32
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Suzuki have put considerably less effort than that into the sv650 and it's still among the most popular bikes in the category. Sadly Honda never, ever look back. They see their historic bikes as important but ultimately obsolete. They could poo poo out a breathed on efi cb750 and sell squillions but they thought making a near identical, yet completely different, 1100cc homage was the way to go.
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Apr 12, 2021 20:07
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Slavvy posted:Suzuki have put considerably less effort than that into the sv650 and it's still among the most popular bikes in the category. Given all the modern retros, if they made a fuel injected CB750 that looked 90% like their 68-76 CB750s in good colorways ... that thing would print money. I've always liked Triumph bonnevilles and its amazing how many of them I see around. I think a modern CB750 would fit a similar but maybe wider audience, plus some of the olds who "had one when I was a whippersnapper"
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Apr 12, 2021 20:44
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There are always people showing up in this forum and saying "I've never ridden a motorcycle but I want to get one, I really like the retro look of [picture of Norton Commando or T120 Bonneville or CB750], what can you recommend?" And in the USA the sum total of bikes with that style are: - modern Bonneville (too powerful and heavy) - SR400 (too expensive for what you get) - one of those tiny Sym things (too weak and tiny) - an actual vintage bike (too unreliable) So they're hosed and they end up with a Ninja 400, which is fine bike but not the style they want, or something too big or too busted or whatever. And Honda can totally do it too! That new India-only CB350 is absolutely perfect for the newbie-wants-a-vintage-bike market.  Why is the American motorcycle market so dumb Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 21:00
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Took the rear MC off the 82 Wing and it looks ok, doesn't leak, and pumps fluid. Definitely rebuilt at some point. The leaky one turned out to be the circlip. The PO had "recently rebuilt" this one. Either they hadn't or they didn't install the circlip correctly. The whole thing fell apart. A reminder that MC is responsible for about 60% of the braking on this bike. 
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Apr 12, 2021 22:19
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builds character posted:Nice bike. What's the grease doing on the forks/where's it going? The grease is the only damping in the forks. It pumps into the space around the springs and slowly gets pushed out the bottom.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:15
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Fantastic.  I think I see the grease on the sliders now that you point it out. lol
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Apr 12, 2021 23:33
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helno posted:The grease is the only damping in the forks. So if you go off a jump your forks just squirt grease everywhere? That's awesome.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:48
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Man, don't go riding on a track anytime soon. But also, thats exactly what I thought the grease was for. Basically just lube the spring.
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Apr 13, 2021 00:10
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builds character posted:So if you go off a jump your forks just squirt grease everywhere? That's awesome. Would it blow your mind to know that the best dirt bike of the 30's was (arguably, probably) a Harley 45ci with a hard tail and about 2" of undamped travel in the front?
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Apr 13, 2021 01:18
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Slavvy posted:Would it blow your mind to know that the best dirt bike of the 30's was (arguably, probably) a Harley 45ci with a hard tail and about 2" of undamped travel in the front? You can't fool me - all roads were dirt in the 30s.
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Apr 13, 2021 01:29
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Dammit 
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Apr 13, 2021 01:30
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