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Getting one in June and they are doing a no scalpel version which I don’t really know what works, but they are giving me some Valium to get in the “don’t care do whatever” so that sounds cool
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 02:37 |
Yeah they just poke a hole and fish out the tube, tie it off in a couple places, snip snip burn burn off you go. No external stitches, I don’t think it even needed glue, doc just pinched the hole together for a sec. Next up in “tool” chat
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I've had tattoos, piercings, and dental work that was all significantly more uncomfortable than my vasectomy. The entire thing was over in less than 10 minutes and painless. Tiny incision, tug tug, snip snip, burn burn, single stitch, and you're all done. My only advice is to wear compression type underpants, and don't switch back too early. I thought I was fine day 2, went back to normal boxer briefs, and that was a drat mistake.
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My local wore off 3/4 through and I about jumped through the goddamn roof.
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Bad Munki posted:Oh poo poo, I remember that too, now. I think I'd forgotten because I was juuuuust sedated enough to not care at the time. Oh yeah baby, valium ![]()
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Last week my buddy was telling us about his vascetomy and he said it was the best day of his life
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:My local wore off 3/4 through and I about jumped through the goddamn roof. As a redhead who is naturally more resistant to anesthesia, this is my nightmare.
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FCKGW posted:As a redhead who is naturally more resistant to anesthesia, this is my nightmare. ![]() please proceed gingerly / ![]()
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CommonShore posted:Last week my buddy was telling us about his vascetomy and he said it was the best day of his life Here's why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixCrLAgk4YI
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tangy yet delightful posted:Shop around for a vasectomy doctor and find yourself one that will give you IV sedation for the procedure. Well worth it, source: my balls The anesthetist costs more than the entire vasectomy if you do that.
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just get a case of beer and a precision heatgun nozzle
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So uh, how bout those wrenches? ![]()
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:So uh, how bout those wrenches? We’re talking about our tools. Even our hammer drills.
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~Coxy posted:The anesthetist costs more than the entire vasectomy if you do that. That may be true. I'd already hit out of pocket max for the year due to an appendectomy so it didn't matter to me. edit: also I should clarify this was conscious sedation so I was still breathing on my own, no intubation. To my knowledge this was done with just an RN and MD. Certainly more pricey than taking a valium before hand if you have to pay though tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Apr 14, 2021 |
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Rutibex posted:just get a case of beer and a precision heatgun nozzle Two cases and a couple of bricks
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Steakandchips posted:Wira Vindolanda posted:Narex for chisels and similar things Thanks. I have some woodworking tools and I was looking for more generic tools like wrenches, screwdrivers and simple everyday tools.
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Screwdrivers: Wera Wiha Wrenches: Snap On
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refleks posted:Can anyone recommend two things for me: Dieter Schmid has a whole assembly tools section with tasty stuff and meets the two requirements! https://www.fine-tools.com/schr.html
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah they just poke a hole and fish out the tube, tie it off in a couple places, snip snip burn burn off you go. No external stitches, I don’t think it even needed glue, doc just pinched the hole together for a sec. Yeah, this version of the procedure is the way to go. I’d have given it better than 3.5 stars, but my balls DID hurt afterward and the doctor, while pleasant and a professional, looked uncannily like Paul Ryan, so I was unnerved despite the drugs.
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Discernibly Turgid posted:Yeah, this version of the procedure is the way to go. I’d have given it better than 3.5 stars, but my balls DID hurt afterward and the doctor, while pleasant and a professional, looked uncannily like Paul Ryan, so I was unnerved despite the drugs. If you don't cry out "FREEEEDOOOOOOM" midway through the procedure, you're doing it wrong. Just a tip for anyone going in. That's the end of my contribution to this topic.
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Let's swing this back to liquid metals, please? Verman posted:Thankfully all my years of shop class and what not I never saw a kid chop off a finger or anything too severe. In our foundry section of shop class, my cast pouring partner hosed up and dropped the crucible of molten aluminum on the floor. That was cool watching liquid aluminum move across the floor lighting everything on fire but also super sketchy since I had to jump up onto a table to not get burned. I was helping someone pour silver; I was holding the mold and they the crucible. I saw the glowing silver filling up the little pool at the top and said "full." They kept pouring. I tried to keep it level, but a drop rolled off the top and fell directly onto their shoe. They pulled their foot away and there was a shiny spot of steaming silver on the concrete floor. Shucked the shoe off, and there's a hole through the top, through the sock, through the foot. They went to the hospital, who said "didn't hit any bones or anything; keep it dressed and let us know if it gets infected. Healed up just fine with a neat-looking scar.
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Let's swing this back to liquid metals, please? I hope they have a hole through the foot that teaches them a valuable lesson whenever they look at it
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I need to pick up a brad nailer and a pin nailer, both pneumatic. I don't want to go super cheap (the Arrow ones have a reputation for jamming and bending the driver, I'm reading?), and I'm willing to spend a few bucks; is there a pressing reason to buy, like, a DeWalt or a Metabo over something cheaper like a Porter Cable? Are there significant build differences once you get out of the ultra-budget range? Some people say they really like the Ridgid "clean drive" and that it actually does jam less, but it's 2021 and the internet is mostly lies, so I have no idea.
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tracecomplete posted:I need to pick up a brad nailer and a pin nailer, both pneumatic. I don't want to go super cheap (the Arrow ones have a reputation for jamming and bending the driver, I'm reading?), and I'm willing to spend a few bucks; is there a pressing reason to buy, like, a DeWalt or a Metabo over something cheaper like a Porter Cable? Are there significant build differences once you get out of the ultra-budget range? I have a mixture of air nailers, and I like my hitachi/metabo the best. I find you can often get good deals on them, to make the price reasonable.
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I have the Ridgid brad nailer and I've never had it jam or anything. But I also don't use it an awful lot.
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Have used porter cable and senco for years without issue. I now fully expect the next one I use to self destruct.
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Let's swing this back to liquid metals, please? ![]()
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I have the 6 gallon porter cable compressor with 3 guns and a stapler and it has worked fine for home owner diy stuff.
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McSpergin posted:I hope they have a hole through the foot that teaches them a valuable lesson whenever they look at it Jesus was a carpenter, though.
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Quick miter saw question: I’m saving up to buy one and I’ve narrowed my choices down to either a DeWalt DWS779/DWS780 (since google pulled up a comment saying the 779 might’ve been discontinued already), or a Makita LS1219L. I’m wondering is the Makita worth the extra money over either of the DeWalts, and does the laser provide any appreciable benefit (like, for an average person, not necessarily for a neurotic perfectionist like me)? Or am I better off just getting one of the DeWalts and saving some cash? I’m guessing the consensus here will be “get a DeWalt you dumb loving lunatic don’t waste money on stupid poo poo like lasers wtf is wrong with you why is this even a question”, but I’ve been wrong before so I figure I should ask to be safe. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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I think my miter saw has a laser that takes AAAs, I've never used it. I think what it would be good for is quickly lining up against a pencil line. So in a situation where you're cutting up a bunch of framing lumber or something where 1/32" isn't a big deal, it probably lets you go faster, but otherwise I wouldn't bother. There's not an awful lot of differences between miter saws though, so get whatever fits your budget and has the features you want.
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If it's the dewalt that casts a shadow then that's just gonna be all around nicer than the laser. No calibration or alignment to worry about ever Re: nailer chat my senco pin nailer is ancient and excellent
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MrPete posted:Dieter Schmid has a whole assembly tools section with tasty stuff and meets the two requirements! https://www.fine-tools.com/schr.html Oh yeah. I completely forgot about that. I bought some woodworking tools there, I didn't realize they had "regular" tools. Thanks for reminding me.
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I. M. Gei posted:Quick miter saw question: I’m saving up to buy one and I’ve narrowed my choices down to either a DeWalt DWS779/DWS780 (since google pulled up a comment saying the 779 might’ve been discontinued already), or a Makita LS1219L. Lasers are cool for rough work.. but I wouldn't' trust them for precision. It's really not a huge amount of effort to push blade down and verify that your blade /kerf is going to hit your pencil mark. If they're there cool if not.. don't seek it out. You'll be better of spending any money spent on upgrading to LaZorZ and getting a good miter saw stand. they'll have arms that you can adjust once and make several of the same cut by just butting the end of the wood to the end of the arm. differences in cheap vs decent vs real good miter saws is going to be the amount of play. The HariboFrigate one will have a lot of "slop" especially the sliding ones, where it'll impact the precision and accuracy. Go to the store and see if you can play with them and see which oens feel better. You really aren't going to go wrong with Dewalt, Metabo was a decent budget brand but their sliding miter saws are as much or more than the dewalt at this point. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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I. M. Gei posted:Quick miter saw question: I’m saving up to buy one and I’ve narrowed my choices down to either a DeWalt DWS779/DWS780 (since google pulled up a comment saying the 779 might’ve been discontinued already), or a Makita LS1219L. I agree entirely with what others have said - lasers are amazing for doing the rough big-joinery cuts where you want to run out a few metres along a tape, make a mark, think for a second then blast a slice off that might be within a cm or so but that doesn’t really matter. My impression is that you, like me, are someone who prefers cuts to land precisely and not to have too much fettling work. That being said, lasers are fun and frankly I think Makita is a more tasteful colour.
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Thanks for the nailer advice, y'all. As far as miter saws go, I think the laser guide is pretty handy (though no replacement for setting a stop, IMO) so long as you are working indoors. The one on my old saw wasn't very visible against light wood outdoors. I've heard that the drop shadow guides are better in bright light and more accurate, but I haven't used one.
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Lasers always seems to get bumped. The shadow line thing dewalt does is a much better system imo and I like mine alot
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Any suggestions for a miter saw stand? I think it’d be nice if it could tuck away, so I’m guessing I’m looking at portable ones in that case. Really only need it occasionally, but I could spend a bit more if it was worth the money. Some possibilities are below. Ryobi: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Universal-Miter-Saw-QUICKSTAND-A18MS01G/205642391 Wen: https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-Collapsible-Rolling-Miter-Saw-Stand-with-3-Onboard-Outlets-MSA330/306588128
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tracecomplete posted:I need to pick up a brad nailer and a pin nailer, both pneumatic. I don't want to go super cheap (the Arrow ones have a reputation for jamming and bending the driver, I'm reading?), and I'm willing to spend a few bucks; is there a pressing reason to buy, like, a DeWalt or a Metabo over something cheaper like a Porter Cable? Are there significant build differences once you get out of the ultra-budget range? I love my Hitachi (metabo now) framer and narrow crown stapler, but I think the bostitch 'smart point' brad nailer is worth the price of admission if you are doing a lot of trim/visible work. Tiny little entry hole and very easy to put the brad right where you want it, good visibility. nitsuga posted:Any suggestions for a miter saw stand? I think it’d be nice if it could tuck away, so I’m guessing I’m looking at portable ones in that case. Really only need it occasionally, but I could spend a bit more if it was worth the money. Some possibilities are below. I have (and am very happy with) the folding RIGID with the big wheels because I use it outdoors a lot, and its great for that purpose, but none of the rolling/mobile stands are gonna save you that much room with the saw attached. They are pretty hefty even folded up. Much nicer to move around, though. Captain Organ fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 02:37 |
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nitsuga posted:Any suggestions for a miter saw stand? I think it’d be nice if it could tuck away, so I’m guessing I’m looking at portable ones in that case. Really only need it occasionally, but I could spend a bit more if it was worth the money. Some possibilities are below. Get one with wheels. It's a game changer. This is the one I have and I think I got it on sale for $100. RIDGID Universal Mobile Miter Saw Stand with Mounting Braces https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Universal-Mobile-Miter-Saw-Stand-with-Mounting-Braces-AC9946/206992161 SKU# 206992161
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