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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:A cheap lovely one. MDF is really hard on bits and blades and dulls them. I melted the Kreg hinge jig doing all the doors for my bookcases because they were MDF. Calidus posted:Is that half shank rule of thumb for hardwood? I am trying to figure how dumb I been cutting 1/2” deep grooves with a single pass in pine with my Dewalt trim router. I mean it will do it, but you're introducing risk to an already risky tool. Routers are dangerous and using underpowered routers or cutting too deeply in each pass encourages you to put more and more force on it. This means the chances of a bit snapping increase. Pair that with a trim router where your hands are closer to the cutter and its not something I would recommend.
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Apr 14, 2021 19:28
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Even with a full sized router, I’m pretty sure taking too heavy of cuts with long bits caused the spindle bearing on my Bosch router to go bad. It was an easy and cheap part to replace, but something I’d rather not have to do all the time.
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Apr 14, 2021 19:38
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I'm getting closer to starting on this sofa table in earnest after I finish puttering with a minor decorative project. I might go with staked legs as suggested. The table is going to be 66 long by 12 wide by 30 high (revised measurements from friends). I'm going to make the top out of nice 3/4 inch birch ply that I already have laying around and do the exposed ply on the edge again. I have a bunch of ash in my shop but I'm not sure that the honey-coloured ash makes for a nice contrast with the birch, so I'm thinking about picking up some other wood - my local hardwood supplier has some reasonably-enough priced rough cut maple and walnut shorts right now. Out of ash, maple, and walnut, are any of those a bad choice for legs, or an especially good one? I don't have a lathe so I'll be plane-rounding the legs. If I go with a staked design on this, what splay and leg thickness would be safe or advisable for such a light-duty but long and high table? Or are there any other designs that might be suitable?
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Apr 14, 2021 20:21
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I have the full MKii sharpening jig system, its good but bulky, especially when you buy the accessories like the skew angle jig. They also take up a lot of space and my miata-scaled toolchest is always tight on space. These new sharpening jigs, both the side clamping one and the short blade sharpening jig make me want to sell my mkii's
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Apr 14, 2021 21:10
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Those sharpening jigs make me extra annoyed with my own sharpening jig because it sometimes bounces on its e-clips or whatever. Then you got Matt Estlea's "how to sharpen a chisel" video where he uses a machine to do most of it. Sometimes I look at Japanese woodworking videos and I see their chisels and I just feel pain 
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Apr 14, 2021 21:42
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CommonShore posted:I'm getting closer to starting on this sofa table in earnest after I finish puttering with a minor decorative project. I might go with staked legs as suggested. I'm sure I'm misreading, or need meds or something here. It looks like a 3 Stooges disaster.
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Apr 14, 2021 22:10
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Mr. Mambold posted:I'm sure I'm misreading, or need meds or something here. It looks like a 3 Stooges disaster. It's a long skinny table to go behind a sofa - I posted about it about a week or so ago and someone suggested staked legs, maybe (probably) as a troll. I gave it serious consideration after my last thread-related adventure. I've been thinking about how I might do that (and the weakness of the legs has been the big concern, and that's why I asked), but as I said I'm considering other designs too. How would you approach a table of these dimensions?
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Apr 14, 2021 22:36
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Bloody posted:This is a code requirement now TIL. I would have used them anyway, as I am a fallible moron, but good to know!
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Apr 14, 2021 23:02
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CommonShore posted:It's a long skinny table to go behind a sofa - I posted about it about a week or so ago and someone suggested staked legs, maybe (probably) as a troll. I gave it serious consideration after my last thread-related adventure. I've been thinking about how I might do that (and the weakness of the legs has been the big concern, and that's why I asked), but as I said I'm considering other designs too. Behind a sofa, like between it and the wall? Here I am assuming a sofa has a back, but then that make sense with 30" height. Something like that sounds like a sideboard type thing, for which 12" is still pretty narrow. If there's a wall, I'd just attach a shelf there.....staked legs would be a troll, imo because there'd be hardly any space between them on the narrow end.
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Apr 14, 2021 23:04
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Mr. Mambold posted:Behind a sofa, like between it and the wall? Here I am assuming a sofa has a back, but then that make sense with 30" height. Something like that sounds like a sideboard type thing, for which 12" is still pretty narrow. If there's a wall, I'd just attach a shelf there.....staked legs would be a troll, imo because there'd be hardly any space between them on the narrow end. Console Table 12" is on the shallow end but still plenty of examples that dimension. Even the ones that are 15-16" deep, (which on the larger side for the form) often have legs an inch or so inside that envelope (so 12-14") GEMorris fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Apr 14, 2021 |
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Apr 14, 2021 23:08
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CommonShore posted:It's a long skinny table to go behind a sofa - I posted about it about a week or so ago and someone suggested staked legs, maybe (probably) as a troll. I gave it serious consideration after my last thread-related adventure. I've been thinking about how I might do that (and the weakness of the legs has been the big concern, and that's why I asked), but as I said I'm considering other designs too. All the woods you listed are strong and easy to work-just whatever you like best imo.
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Apr 15, 2021 00:01
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are you just staking the legs through the top? That seems like it would be really bouncy. Plywood isn't very stiff when it's flat like that, so I'd think about some kind of aprons or understructure. 12"wide x30"h table is probably a little skinny and tippy anyway so I'd play around some with a simple scale model maybe to get some idea of how the leg splaying might work? I think if I stake the legs Im going to stake them into plates of the same wood underneath, which I then attach to the top, so they don't go through the surface. Regarding the plywood bending, I've been thinking about laminating a 3" wide strip to the centre underneath to reinforce it. The other model I'm considering is making 2 or 3 bridle joint sawhorse structures out of 1x material as legs and screwing the top to that. Probably more work and wood but fewer opportunities for idiotic mistakes.
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Apr 15, 2021 01:07
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GEMorris posted:Console Table If he goes that route, he def ought to follow most of those and add a bottom shelf for stability. 29" Legs inside 12" is really asking a lot of a beginner.
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Apr 15, 2021 03:09
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Staked legs was idk a half troll but in plywood that sounds like a recipe for misery
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Apr 15, 2021 04:08
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I would treat the plywood as non-structural and design the rest of the table to stand on its own without it. Adding the top then increases the strength and stability of it. That way I would be sure it wouldn't sag or twist due to lack of support.
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Apr 15, 2021 06:49
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Deteriorata posted:I would treat the plywood as non-structural and design the rest of the table to stand on its own without it. Adding the top then increases the strength and stability of it. I like thinking about it that way, and that settles it. Thanks for the input all - I'm going to make the lower structure out of three light bridle joint structures, probably made from those maple shorts I saw. It'll be a good hand/power tool project mix as well, so that's fun.
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Apr 15, 2021 15:45
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A bit of "Its fine" woodworking today. I needed some storage space so I put two of my old pallets to use. I scrapped a lovely pallet for the internal timbers to make legs than I screwed the legs onto one of the nicer pallets that has a solid surface. Gave me a chance to try out my new impact driver! Wow this thing is way better at driving screws than a power drill. I used construction screws for this one (unlike my work bench which is simple nails). The screws seems to hold it together better than nails:  
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Apr 15, 2021 20:01
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Urban Reclaimed Wood dining room table $2000
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Apr 15, 2021 20:11
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JEEVES420 posted:
Distressed Urban Reclaimed Wood dining room table $3000
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Apr 15, 2021 20:14
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Apr 15, 2021 20:32
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Those metal edges would bruise the poo poo outta legs, and the corners would tear your skin off, drat.
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Apr 15, 2021 22:07
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Covered in genuine BMW owner blood, +$800.
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Apr 15, 2021 22:08
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I bring home hardware in the back of my BMW. I should sell poo poo and advertise that.
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Apr 15, 2021 22:15
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OgreNoah posted:Those metal edges would bruise the poo poo outta legs, and the corners would tear your skin off, drat. Anyone stupid enough to buy that deserves it.
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Apr 15, 2021 22:25
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Even more it's fine woodworking: Knocked together a little firewood shed out of the pallets that all of my vinyl fencing was delivered on. Even better, they used pt lumber to distribute the pressure on the packaged, which became the columns. Even more better, I had just enough pieces left to make a little roof.
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Apr 15, 2021 23:25
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NomNomNom posted:Even more it's fine woodworking: Hell yeah I love this 
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Apr 15, 2021 23:34
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Just took a rusty lightly pitted plane iron that was at the bottom of a garage sale bin, cleaned it up and put an 8" radius on it and slapped it into a crummy no4 plane to make a scrub. Holy poo poo scrub planes are amazing
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Apr 16, 2021 19:39
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CommonShore posted:Just took a rusty lightly pitted plane iron that was at the bottom of a garage sale bin, cleaned it up and put an 8" radius on it and slapped it into a crummy no4 plane to make a scrub. How did you put the radius on it? Bench grinder? I picked up a spare iron for the same reason and haven't gotten around to reshaping it.
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Apr 16, 2021 19:51
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:How did you put the radius on it? Bench grinder? Yeah I made a template, marked it with a sharpie, and used the bench grinder. I could do it with a file but I don't think I'd want to, given the option. If you've never used the scrub plane just quit procrastinating (like I did) and do it. It's an unbelievable tool and I now wish I had done it as soon as I picked up that iron. It took me like 5 minutes to resurface my low Roman work bench - scrub, jack smoother - with it.
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Apr 16, 2021 19:59
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CommonShore posted:Yeah I made a template, marked it with a sharpie, and used the bench grinder. I could do it with a file but I don't think I'd want to, given the option. Awesome thanks. I don't need a scrub plane for anything at the moment but I'll get that job done before I do need it for an upcoming project.
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Apr 16, 2021 20:46
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Awesome thanks. you need a scrub plane for making chips and shavings 
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Apr 16, 2021 20:54
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Scrub planes - they're not just for scrubs
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Apr 16, 2021 21:09
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CommonShore posted:you need a scrub plane for making chips and shavings I'm doing some shop upgrades right now so mostly plywood work and electrical. Regularly scheduled shaving production will resume in a couple weeks.
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Apr 16, 2021 21:46
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A fore plane (which includes no5 jack planes and no6 fore planes) with a radiused blade is not the same thing as a scrub plane. A scrub plane is much smaller, has a narrower blade, and is overall much less versatile. I agree with everything said about the usefulness of a heavily raidused blade, but that alone doesn't make something a scrub plane.
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Apr 17, 2021 00:43
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On that topic, what's the difference between a jack plane and a smoothing plane? I've been working on this inherited Sargent but I'm not sure what it actually is.
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Apr 18, 2021 02:12
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Stultus Maximus posted:On that topic, what's the difference between a jack plane and a smoothing plane? I've been working on this inherited Sargent but I'm not sure what it actually is. Primarily length, secondarily how you set them up Smoothing planes: 8-13" Fore (jack) planes: 14-18" Try (jointer) planes: 22"+ You'll note some gaps, Stanley never made 20" planes in metal but they did in their transitional line. Is it a fore? Is it a try? Who knows. Set it up with a heavily curved blade and serve as the former, a more shallow curve or straight edge and it will serve as the latter. Shorter planes can get into smaller areas and smooth surfaces without resorting to removing tons of material. Longer planes will ride across the tops of ridges and flatten them down to level the entire board. Fore planes in the middle are short and light enough to do heavy roughing work, but long enough to establish a reasonably-towards-flat surface for the try plane to start working on.
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Apr 18, 2021 02:31
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Okay, so at 10" this one is probably meant to be a smoothing plane.
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Apr 18, 2021 03:24
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I bought all the stuff (minus the sjoberg tail vise) to make the rob cosman workbench. Talk me out of it, and tell me what else I should do with a sheet of 1" MDF. My next big splurge purchase will probably be a decent set of handplanes. The WoodRiver set comes with a #4, a #6, and a low angle block plane -- the Veritas set comes with a Small Bevel Up Smoother, a low angle jack, and a low angle block plane. They're basically the same price. I'm leaning towards the Veritas set, because as a hybrid woodworker in a very small shop space I feel like the low angle jack is maybe better for using as a jointer to establish a flat edge to be able to run through a table saw, and also as a fore plane for flattening high spots enough to send a board through a thickness planer. I currently have two kind of lovely hand planes, a new Stanley low angle block plane that I've been able to make work pretty well for finishing edges and breaking corners and things, and a Grizzly #4 that Rex Krueger convinced me was actually pretty good and I think it just sucks, actually, because I've never been able to take more than like two good shavings from it before something about it gets misaligned and hosed up. The chip breaker seems like a big problem, it was nothing like flush to the iron when I got it, and I think I've gotten it pretty close, but the plane has just never worked well for me. Part of the reason the Veritas low angle set is appealing is that they're all bevel up planes and I wouldn't have to worry about a chip breaker. But there's wisdom in our ancestors and they used bevel down planes, so what am I missing?
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Apr 18, 2021 07:53
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If you're doing hybrid, I agree the Veritas is probably the better choice. At least, almost all the hybrid folks that I follow and ITT like them.
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Apr 18, 2021 13:29
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Even though I'm a big fan of the no6 I absolutely agree that between those two choices the veritas set is the hands down pick. Also on the workbench front: its not too late to switch to the Roubo style anarchists workbench, which, just when comparing the weight/joinery looks vastly superior to me, but I've only usee the roubo not the cosman.
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Apr 18, 2021 15:10
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