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Thanks again! Should Be all good then
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Apr 2, 2021 22:40
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Looks like the track day thread is long since dead. By any chance, is anyone here doing the Ridesmart event at COTA this weekend? I'll be in the novice group on Sunday.
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Apr 3, 2021 07:31
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If I want to mark a bolt’s position to see if it’s coming undone over time, what kind of marker do I use? My OEM bolts have the same style marks and I think it would be great to be able to do that with my brake banjos once I replace them. Like am I overthinking it? Is it just a sharpie? Whatever OEM used seems to be heavy duty as it’s survived washes, lubes, etc.
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Apr 4, 2021 03:21
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Martytoof posted:If I want to mark a bolt’s position to see if it’s coming undone over time, what kind of marker do I use? My OEM bolts have the same style marks and I think it would be great to be able to do that with my brake banjos once I replace them. Sharpie or paint pen... Depending on what solvents of any are ever applied to the area. I had a yellow harbor freight paint pen for that purpose on my KTM 625SMC paint shaker for that purpose. (Also copious loctite and some safety wire on the oil filter.)
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Apr 4, 2021 03:47
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It is engineer's paint pen.
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Apr 4, 2021 03:48
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Nail varnish will do the same trick if you're on a budget (obviously being careful not to get it on plastics).
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Apr 4, 2021 09:37
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I noticed this while washing the bike today. This is "get new wheel bearings," right? (Has sound.) https://i.imgur.com/bQIwRWs.mp4 I am basically squeezing the brake rotor and the fork leg and there's about 0.5mm of play between the wheel and the fork. It's not just the rotor floating.
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Apr 5, 2021 00:24
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 Yes, replace the bearings
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Apr 5, 2021 00:37
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Yeah over the last few months I've been noticing a bit of a judder now and then while coming to a stop, but I've barely been riding thanks to *gestures* so this is the first time in like a year that I've really gone over the bike and tuned everything up. And this is definitely new. lol e: oh and don't forget to lubricate your cables now and then. I hadn't done it in probably 2 years and man I forgot how smooth the clutch is supposed to feel Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 00:43
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Lol holy poo poo. That would've made for some interesting steering.
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Apr 5, 2021 01:21
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Jealous of your extra suspension.
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Apr 5, 2021 01:27
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What do people do with motorcycle titles that are sold only as titles ? For instance, I’ve recently seen a state issued Harley that appeared to be filled out and dated sometime in the 80s for $500 and sell instantly.
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Apr 5, 2021 21:13
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Dr.Caligari posted:What do people do with motorcycle titles that are sold only as titles ? For instance, I’ve recently seen a state issued Harley that appeared to be filled out and dated sometime in the 80s for $500 and sell instantly. custom choppers would be my guess.
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Apr 5, 2021 21:23
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Titles let you get a license plate. Never have I ever seen a cop or anyone verify a physical title against a frame, or the vin on a frame against the one listed for the license plate. Someone plating a title-less bike would be my guess.
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Apr 5, 2021 21:24
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Sagebrush posted:I noticed this while washing the bike today. This is "get new wheel bearings," right? (Has sound.) It's like an AK47 now it functions better because of the loose tolerances Jim Silly-Balls posted:Titles let you get a license plate. Never have I ever seen a cop or anyone verify a physical title against a frame, or the vin on a frame against the one listed for the license plate. I would of course never encourage giving the middle finger to such a grand empire  but if victimless crimes blow your hair back and you own two bikes and have only one registration you're going to be fine just swapping that plate between them.
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Apr 5, 2021 21:54
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With the whole Vermont registration trick, you don’t really need much plate fuckery these days anyway.
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Apr 5, 2021 21:58
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I live in Vermont and I have like 9 bikes and I don't own a single bike new enough to need a title in Vermont. The Vermont DMV gives so few shits, it's kind of bizarre. Is it 16 years old? No title. Under 300cc? No title. Light blue? No title. Made in Slovenia? No title.
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Apr 6, 2021 04:06
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I honestly believe Vermont knows they’re the only state that does what they do and they like the cash flow. Seriously when I registered my RV90 the company that did it (International Title Sevices) had to do all kinds of weird poo poo including power of attorney with regards to the title just to get it registered, it took like 3 months and cost hundreds of dollars There used to be other states with title loopholes, like main, Nevada and Louisiana, but they’ve all closed them over the years. Vermont is almost laughably easy, relatively cheap, and literally everyone who needs a title turns to them. They probably have the most profitable DMV in the US Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Apr 6, 2021 |
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Apr 6, 2021 16:18
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I honestly believe Vermont knows they’re the only state that does what they do and they like the cash flow. North Dakota still, I think? I don't know because around here certain riding areas recognize VT plates but not others (although I've always wondered about this - can't imagine actually getting turned away with some other plate).
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Apr 6, 2021 16:35
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I think it's South Dakota that had the "get a title and plate issued for your off-road only bike" loophole, was pretty popular with motard dudes
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Apr 6, 2021 17:15
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Yeah I'd say these bearings are shot lol https://i.imgur.com/Z0ukIdY.mp4 I kinda wanna pry one apart to see what it looks like inside. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Apr 9, 2021 |
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Apr 9, 2021 22:22
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Just flick the seals out with a pick or small screwdriver.
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Apr 10, 2021 00:09
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Considering picking up a 2014 bike with only 1500 km. This basically means it's sat for 7 years with almost no activity. It's not exactly a barn find either though, appears to be in perfect condition. Aside from flushing all the fluids and changing the tires, what should I be scared of? It's a Sportster with EFI, no gummed up carbs to worry about. Tank rust?
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Apr 14, 2021 21:46
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epswing posted:Considering picking up a 2014 bike with only 1500 km. This basically means it's sat for 7 years with almost no activity. It's not exactly a barn find either though, appears to be in perfect condition. Aside from flushing all the fluids and changing the tires, what should I be scared of? Sat on the owners property or the dealership? Not that I trust dealerships but they'd be more likely to refresh the fluids. Barring any serious PO malfeasance there should not be any bad problems like tank rust or rusty brown poo in the brakes, but every single fluid should be flushed and replaced. Tires should be replaced because of age. Other than that I bet it's fine.
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Apr 14, 2021 22:21
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epswing posted:Considering picking up a 2014 bike with only 1500 km. This basically means it's sat for 7 years with almost no activity. It's not exactly a barn find either though, appears to be in perfect condition. Aside from flushing all the fluids and changing the tires, what should I be scared of? When you do the fluids make triple sure you're using the right brake juice. Harleys come with birth dot4 and dot5 systems, they are very not compatible, there is no rhyme or reason to which bike has what kind as far as I can tell. Also the drive belt will gently caress out on the first long journey so I'd replace that preemptively.
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Apr 14, 2021 22:57
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Slavvy posted:Also the drive belt will gently caress out on the first long journey so I'd replace that preemptively. I actually happen to have an extra in-box OEM drive belt that I was going to use on a previous sportster, but it’s also a few years old. Do drive belts time out, similar to tires? If so, is it a slow process that would show signs before failure?
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Apr 14, 2021 23:33
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epswing posted:I actually happen to have an extra in-box OEM drive belt that I was going to use on a previous sportster, but it’s also a few years old. Do drive belts time out, similar to tires? If so, is it a slow process that would show signs before failure? They seem to last much longer when they're used constantly, if the bike has stood still for literal years then it's guaranteed to be hosed. Sometimes you can see them cracking but most of the time the only warning you get is when a few teeth go missing. They don't expire sitting on a shelf afaik. Another thing I would plan on doing is the clutch fibers, they'll be weakened from cementing themselves together over the years, the brass rivet center plate will probably blow. It is much, much cheaper and easier to spend $100 on some fibers than to replace the whole basket assembly.
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Apr 15, 2021 00:28
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OK, thanks. So it sounds like: Engine oil Primary oil Fork oil Front/rear brake fluid Clutch plates Drive belt Tires As a rule, I flush the fluids on every used bike I've picked up (except in one case where a seller had receipts from the dealership), but the other stuff... how many km per year do you guys figure will actually keep a bike in good working order?
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Apr 15, 2021 02:18
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I don't think you need to change the fork oil. The rest of that list seems reasonable. New battery too of course, but I assume you were just taking that for granted epswing posted:how many km per year do you guys figure will actually keep a bike in good working order? like 1000 if you spread it out properly (50 kilometers twice a month should at least keep things moving) Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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Apr 15, 2021 02:25
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Also didn't there used to be a specific tires thread? Place down the street from me has these sets of tires that fit my CL  I kinda like the chunky old fashioned block tread look considering it's a 50 year old scrambler. It basically never sees more than 70mph because the suspension is terrifying above that speed. Any reason to NOT get either the Dunlops or the Metzelers for this application?
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Apr 15, 2021 02:32
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Imo the mileage isn't the thing, it's the frequency of drive cycles. By drive cycle I mean the engine gets fully warm, the tyres and suspension and brakes get warm and everything has a chance to circulate and lubricate. It doesn't really matter how far you go as long as you're doing the full cycle. You need to be doing this about once a month to keep everything mint, less frequently that that and you'll see some deterioration.Sagebrush posted:Also didn't there used to be a specific tires thread? You are smarter than picking tyres based on their wow cool appearance, those tread patterns are ancient and deadly, it's like wearing a leather skull cap for a helmet because it looks period correct aka a really dumb way to add shitloads of danger for no reason. Get the most modern tyres that fit. I would go for those bt45's as they still look nice and are an excellent piece of rubber, I've ridden several 80's Japanese shitters with those and they are perfectly suited to that type of old, wobbly bike. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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Apr 15, 2021 02:33
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I was curious whether the tread patterns actually make that significant a difference in street use, considering that every manufacturer has their own house style and the real innovation over the decades appears to be in compounds.
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Apr 15, 2021 02:39
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The tread pattern isn't the only thing different about those, they have old style construction and profiles that suuuuuck baalllls it is seriously not worth it unless you're going to be doing concourse restoration or vintage shows or whatever, that's who those are made for not people who actually ride the bike.
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Apr 15, 2021 02:48
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Bleh, that's lame. The Bridgestones look fine, I just like the look of the chunky square tread so if there was no downside then why not. Oh well. Also this is the only place I can go for actual useful tire information because holy poo poo. Ask ten people and you'll get twenty anecdotes and twelve different entirely contradictory opinions and everyone's convinced that everyone else is an idiot. It's worse than oil. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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Apr 15, 2021 03:05
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Yeah cause you can't feel it when you change oil brands. I'm super biased (pirelli and bridgestone and sometimes dunlop are the only good tyres) but I try to keep that in mind and be objective, like with everything. Except ktm.
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Apr 15, 2021 03:18
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Slavvy posted:I try to keep that in mind and be objective, like with everything. Except ktm. And anime. Edit: hey anyone ever used one of these? How'd that work out? 
Strife fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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Apr 15, 2021 04:25
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Strife posted:And anime. A hitch rack or that specific hitch rack? It depends on your bike and the vehicle. Hitch racks are fine if your vehicle has a good enough receiver that can support the weight of the bike and rack and good ground clearance/suspension. Putting 300+ lbs that far behind your rear axle will give you some negative rake (rear sag/front lift) and might unweight the front of your car making it feel a bit floaty at high speeds. Also watch departure angle as you'll likely scrape the hitch rack coming out of steep driveways but the vehicle and it's ground clearance will be the biggest factor. Universally, a hitch stabilizer/tightener/anti rattle clamp will make it way more secure. I use one (not that exact one) for my dirt bike on my 4runner and it works great. My bike only weighs 240lbs though so a heavier bike might feel different and I might not trust it the closer you get to it's 500lb max. I even notice a bit of front lift with that might of a bike back there at highway speeds.
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Apr 15, 2021 04:51
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Strife posted:And anime. What I can tell you is that if you build your own hitch rack out of 2x4’s and angle iron and attach it to a 1985 Plymouth Caravelle and use it to haul a 1960’s Arctic Cat mini bike from MKE to the UP it will irreparably flatten the gently caress out of your suspension, leading to perma rear end dragging. Gets the job done though Ask my dad. That’s pretty specific and may not be applicable to your situation, however
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Apr 15, 2021 12:00
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Verman posted:A hitch rack or that specific hitch rack? Just in general. I'm going to use it to move my KLX230 around with my WK2 Jeep, so weight shouldn't be too much of a concern. The Jeep has an adjustable air ride, so I assume it can compensate for the bike/hitch rack well enough. I ordered that specific one, and reviews on Revzilla seemed positive enough, with the only major complaint being the tilt stabilizer and someone trying to haul their Ninja around. Good point on the ground clearance and general highway floatiness though. I'm going up to ME at the end of the month, and it's about 4 hours of highway driving, so I'll be careful. Jim Silly-Balls posted:What I can tell you is that if you build your own hitch rack out of 2x4’s and angle iron and attach it to a 1985 Plymouth Caravelle and use it to haul a 1960’s Arctic Cat mini bike from MKE to the UP it will irreparably flatten the gently caress out of your suspension, leading to perma rear end dragging. Gets the job done though Quality engineering has nothing on the sheer determination of our ancestors, nailing poo poo together and welding it to a wood-paneled station wagon. ABS? Seatbelts? Fuel injection? Ratchet straps? These things mean nothing.
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Apr 15, 2021 15:22
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I've only ever used a hitch rack to haul my DRZ and XCW300 around, longest drive was ~5 hours, no problems on a 4runner which only has a load rating of 500 lbs tongue weight
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Apr 15, 2021 15:33
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