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Evil SpongeBob posted:Had my EGR cooler recall completed this week (4 months after the notice, no parts of course). Now there's a kind of sweet, maple syrup smell from my engine after I shut it off. I was on a long drive out camping and on a long, uphill 4x4 grade I started smelling maple syrup or cotton candy, neither of which I had packed. All my gauges were normal so I kept going. Once I made camp and unloaded I realized my spare bottle of ATF had leaked onto the carpet over the trans tunnel - once it heated up on the grade it smelled exactly like a sugary treat.
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Mar 25, 2021 17:41
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DildenAnders posted:On the radiator for the 4.0l in the WJ, does anyone sell the transmission cooler lines pre-bent? I suck at bending/flaring pipe, and the lines on my car are crusty enough where I doubt they'll survive being removed, and the radiator I got doesnt come with any. Not sure, if you haven't, check rockauto. Be warned, on some 4.0 WJs the AC condenser and trans cooler are the same unit and the threads in it for the line blocks are extremely soft. We stripped them out on a coworkers WJ years ago and it was A Bad Time.
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Mar 25, 2021 18:00
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Checked RockAuto, doesn't seem like they're there. I managed to pull the old ones out of the radiator, I think I'll bring them to a shop and ask if they can make copies of them. And that arrangement sounds horrible, thankfully the transmission lines and condenser lines are on opposite sides.
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Mar 31, 2021 15:55
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DildenAnders posted:Checked RockAuto, doesn't seem like they're there. I managed to pull the old ones out of the radiator, I think I'll bring them to a shop and ask if they can make copies of them. And that arrangement sounds horrible, thankfully the transmission lines and condenser lines are on opposite sides. It is goofy as hell setup and yeah, it feels like the condenser is made from pot metal.
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Apr 1, 2021 13:34
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C-Bangin' it 
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DildenAnders posted:Checked RockAuto, doesn't seem like they're there. I managed to pull the old ones out of the radiator, I think I'll bring them to a shop and ask if they can make copies of them. And that arrangement sounds horrible, thankfully the transmission lines and condenser lines are on opposite sides. The only option (other than custom fab) that there probably ever was, was Mopar - and based on a conversation I had with a Jeep dealership while trying to buy parts for my TJ, I think anything older than a JK is starting to get the short end of the stick in terms of parts support from the factory.
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Apr 1, 2021 15:08
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My WK decided the engine needed some self-modding and joined the dropped valve seat casualty list.  At least it had the decency to implode in town this week instead of at the National Wilderness last week. IOwnCalculus posted:based on a conversation I had with a Jeep dealership while trying to buy parts for my TJ, I think anything older than a JK is starting to get the short end of the stick in terms of parts support from the factory. Yeah, in between making bribe payments to the UAW, FCA seriously cut the parts support window and moved to a dynamic pricing system heavily influenced by stock. And that's on top of other changes they'd already made, like moving primarily to just-in-time manufacturing, and marking a whole slew of parts as non-stock backorderable (and then not making them until enough backorders piled up). Getting factory parts for an older FCA/Stellantis portfolio vehicle is rapidly becoming a nightmare. Even a pre-refresh JK is long in the tooth under the current system. There's poo poo on my WK that is now priced at 10x what it ever was, and a bunch of parts that are simply discontinued, which made it much easier to hear "dropped a seat, it's trashed, probably need a long block." Put a new engine in the thing I almost couldn't repair last year? Oh boy, let me get right on that. (I am still lightly tempted to tear it apart in my driveway, TBH. It is the path to only pain, but I'm tempted.)
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Apr 1, 2021 16:49
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Another 4.7/5.7 joining the party I guess? Sucks. Finding those in the junkyard is hard, though possible, and IIRC you can get them rebuilt on rockauto as well... If you want to dump money into it.
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Apr 1, 2021 16:53
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kastein posted:Another 4.7/5.7 joining the party I guess? Sucks. Finding those in the junkyard is hard, though possible, and IIRC you can get them rebuilt on rockauto as well... If you want to dump money into it. I got lucky back when i had my '04 KJ liberty, trans went out at 160k, but never had a head gasket or valve issue when i sold it at 199k.
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Apr 1, 2021 17:29
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Molten Llama posted:Yeah, in between making bribe payments to the UAW, FCA seriously cut the parts support window and moved to a dynamic pricing system heavily influenced by stock. And that's on top of other changes they'd already made, like moving primarily to just-in-time manufacturing, and marking a whole slew of parts as non-stock backorderable (and then not making them until enough backorders piled up). Getting factory parts for an older FCA/Stellantis portfolio vehicle is rapidly becoming a nightmare. Even a pre-refresh JK is long in the tooth under the current system. I admit I was kinda surprised that even something as common as a timing set for a late 4.0 was completely out of stock, but then it dawned on me that the last vehicles produced with those in the US are 15 years old. Doesn't excuse the absolute poo poo-tier quality control on the aftermarket versions of those parts though.
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Apr 1, 2021 17:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:I admit I was kinda surprised that even something as common as a timing set for a late 4.0 was completely out of stock, but then it dawned on me that the last vehicles produced with those in the US are 15 years old. I'm sure a Cloyes timing set would do just fine.
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Apr 1, 2021 18:16
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Kirk Vikernes posted:I'm sure a Cloyes timing set would do just fine. You'd think, but the crank gear on the Cloyes set I got from Autozone was cut too tight to fit on the crank. The Autozone no-name set had the cam gear cut too tight to fit on the cam. So now it has a mix of parts. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Apr 2, 2021 03:18
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Well that's a weird probation
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Apr 2, 2021 15:22
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Pulling into my garage after work today I notice that my engine fan is running full blast which is odd as it never does that, happen to look down and see temp gauge is a tick over half which, also odd. Turn Jeep off and step out, hmm that's a weird smell Son of a...  Seriously Jeep, I buy you nice things, keep you clean and this is how you repay me? The lower rad hose has been rubbing against the hydro steer hose and has rubbed a hole in itself, of all the random poo poo. Welp guess that's my weekend project.
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Apr 2, 2021 22:13
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New thread title. Jeep, hmm, that's a wierd smell.
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Apr 3, 2021 07:51
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Just move that ziptie an inch to the right  [e] I guess instead of just shitpost I can post pics of my new14bolt from ECGS that finally arrived after months, (72" WMS, 4" .50 tube, 4.56 ARB locker, shave kit), which completes the complete axle replacement for the m715... Once the perches and tabs arrive and I get the driveshaft changed to 1410.  
tuna fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Apr 3, 2021 |
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Apr 3, 2021 08:28
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Evil SpongeBob posted:New thread title. Jeep, hmm, that's a wierd smell. Mine smells like gear oil!
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Apr 3, 2021 15:18
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Floors are not included in mine and the carpet has given up the battle too, so it smells like whatever is outside. Amazingly right now I have five Jeeps still and *four* of them run and drive. Quite a change of pace from when the thread was renamed a few years ago. That 14 bolt looks great. I didn't go quite that beefy with my rear 60, goddamn.
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Apr 3, 2021 15:24
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kastein posted:That 14 bolt looks great. I didn't go quite that beefy with my rear 60, goddamn. The stock axles on the 715 are about 73" wms front and back which makes replacing them a pain in the arse. The rear leafs are spaced about 52" or so wide. I couldn't find anything wide enough for the rear (the front was a bit easier with a classic GM 60 from a CUCV), so I had to get something made to spec regardless. ECGS charge about the same for a 60, 80 or a 14 bolt so a 14 bolt it was! I would've just kept the stock dana 70 rear it has but it's the black sheep of the dana family - impossible to find parts for, and I couldn't find a way to convert the lug nut pattern to 8x6.5. tuna fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Apr 3, 2021 |
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Apr 3, 2021 22:38
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DildenAnders posted:Mine smells like gear oil! Close enough. 
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Apr 4, 2021 01:17
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tuna posted:The stock axles on the 715 are about 73" wms front and back which makes replacing them a pain in the arse. The rear leafs are spaced about 52" or so wide. I couldn't find anything wide enough for the rear (the front was a bit easier with a classic GM 60 from a CUCV), so I had to get something made to spec regardless. ECGS charge about the same for a 60, 80 or a 14 bolt so a 14 bolt it was! I would've just kept the stock dana 70 rear it has but it's the black sheep of the dana family - impossible to find parts for, and I couldn't find a way to convert the lug nut pattern to 8x6.5. I hate to say it this late in the game but I've got a set of factory hubs off a 74 ihc 1300 front 70 that are 8x6.5 if they will fit it. It might at least make it easier to sell? I dunno. I'll have a set of 0.5" pinion offset lp 4.88s that should fit it sitting here too since I'm putting 5.13s in my front. Speaking of which... Here's what I spent my evening cleaning up and prepping for tube slugs I need to turn to attach my open knuckles to it now that I hacked all the gross old closed knuckle drum brake junk off. Turns out the passenger side leaf spring perch is exactly parallel to the pinion gear centerline so I've a feeling I'm going to dislike making my front driveshaft a lot. In fact I'm not sure what I was thinking on this project at all. I should have just 3 linked it with the kingpin 60 I had sitting here. 
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Apr 4, 2021 04:19
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I've been busy lately. Pulled my Locked, One-Pieced AMC20 and swapped in a Dana 60 that I had narrowed to CJ width (56 WMS) 4.56 gears, full float, ox locker. Setting up the Gears, Decent pattern at .007 backlash. (spec is .006-010)  Bringing the axle back from the welding shop after getting a shock mount re-welded  Assembled the hubs, and rolled it under the Jeep:  Locking hubs on the rear to allow for flat towing (don't flat tow a D300!)  Close up of the U-Bolt Eliminators i'm running.  Waiting on the correct (shorter) shocks to come, but pulled it out of the garage after spinning the diff in 2nd gear for 15 mins to get some inital no-load breakin on the gears/bearings. 
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Apr 5, 2021 15:37
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That came out awesome.
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Apr 5, 2021 16:04
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Looks awesome - just one thing, because I forgot this once and it looks like you might have too. Did you make sure your bumpstops aren't about to hammer your brake lines flat? I'm curious about the hubs too - standard front hubs and lockouts plus custom shafts? Neat idea. Could even use it to drive home in FWD if you had to, not that you're gonna hurt a 60...
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Apr 5, 2021 16:27
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kastein posted:Looks awesome - just one thing, because I forgot this once and it looks like you might have too. Did you make sure your bumpstops aren't about to hammer your brake lines flat? I re-routed the brake lines actually after those pics, zip-tied some -3an stainless line to the T for now, going to add cutting brakes to the rear in the not too distant future.
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Apr 5, 2021 16:29
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Excellent. I didn't, and then wondered why my rear brakes stopped working
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Apr 5, 2021 16:30
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What are the benefits of the U-bolt eliminators?
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Apr 5, 2021 18:14
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:What are the benefits of the U-bolt eliminators? I'm going to guess - based on my own fun experiences two decades ago getting U-bolts for the C10 - that its easier to find replacement straight bolts instead if/when needed since you only have to worry about diameter, length, and strength, instead of adding in the width between the legs of the U.
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Apr 5, 2021 18:35
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm going to guess - based on my own fun experiences two decades ago getting U-bolts for the C10 - that its easier to find replacement straight bolts instead if/when needed since you only have to worry about diameter, length, and strength, instead of adding in the width between the legs of the U. Stronger -- you're dealing with a 5/8 ASTM rated bolt (stronger than grade 8). Easier to get torque -- Those are torqued to 150 ft/lbs Easier to service -- still one time use but much easier to live with More clearance -- I'm running u-bolt skids in the front to protect the u-bolts. in the rear i just have the bolt heads hanging down and that's it, less things to get snagged on off road.
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Apr 5, 2021 18:50
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I am considering doing an LS swap into my 01 TJ. Normally I would say it isnt worth it but I happen to have a donor vehicle sitting in my driveway with a good running motor. The TJ has a cracked head (0331 head nightmares) but is still running at this point. The hurdle I am facing is that I live in Arizona where we have to do emissions tests. The tests are checked by VIN both on the dash and on the OBD port scan. They plug the computer into the port and verify that no CELs are on and that the entire drive cycle is done. But if the VIN doesnt match on the computer it will certainly fail. Ive researched this a bit but it sounds like I will have to find a way to get the Jeep computer reading off the Chevy engine, which doesnt sound easy. Any insight on this?
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Apr 15, 2021 15:13
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Drunk Beekeeper posted:I am considering doing an LS swap into my 01 TJ. Normally I would say it isnt worth it but I happen to have a donor vehicle sitting in my driveway with a good running motor. The TJ has a cracked head (0331 head nightmares) but is still running at this point. AZ is... somewhat hosed in this regard. CA is strict as hell, but they have very clear rules and procedures around effectively 'updating' the chassis to now smog as whatever the donor car was. AZ doesn't publish poo poo, and yes, having the OBD2 port report the same VIN as the chassis is an absolute requirement. Miss that and you're probably getting sent to the referee and getting hosed. The only way you'd ever get the Jeep's computer to actually report everything is okay, would be to feed it a boatload of false data and/or program it to report ready on all of its emissions PIDs, because there's no way the JTEC is going to actually run a LS. The other option - which I've been considering at a very low level - is to make the GM computer report the Jeep VIN, and make sure the only OBD2 port visible on the vehicle goes to the GM computer. I've seen reports that they will instant-fail / referee any vehicle with two OBD2 ports. So if you keep the Jeep PCM just to run the gauges, you'll need to remove the OBD2 port for it. Also, making a GM computer return a non-GM VIN means you can't use HPTuners at all. The whole thing is obnoxious enough that it makes building my TJ into a 4.7 stroker more tempting than a swap.
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Apr 15, 2021 19:29
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Wow that's ridiculous. I bet they did it to prevent people from running the wrong car on emissions tests to get their sticker, but it does make swaps hard.
kastein fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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Apr 15, 2021 20:06
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Yeah, I'd argue that for swaps into an OBD2 chassis AZ* is now more strict than anywhere else in the US. CARB states at least have a well documented process to follow. Pre-OBD2 chassis have it much easier in that as long as you can make it pass the sniffer and the very cursory visual, you're good. The other tricky thing for getting a swap like this done under the radar is you have to make sure the number of readiness monitors is the same. People running Hondata setups in S2000s got hosed on that one because the RSX-based Hondata computer doesn't have a monitor present that the factory S2000 computer does. The only upshot here is that the TJ JTEC has a pretty minimal set of monitors to begin with. *technically, only the Phoenix metro area and Pima county, but that's over 80% of the state by population. I'd bet most AZ-registered LS-swapped OBD2 Jeeps are registered to a non-emissions address.
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Apr 15, 2021 20:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, I'd argue that for swaps into an OBD2 chassis AZ* is now more strict than anywhere else in the US. CARB states at least have a well documented process to follow. Pre-OBD2 chassis have it much easier in that as long as you can make it pass the sniffer and the very cursory visual, you're good. Thanks for the advice! I think one option may be to build my own gauge cluster that feeds off all the GM data. I think the basics would be easy such as oil pressure, tach, voltage, etc. I do know from experience that the emissions guys also check for the presence of a functioning CEL. As in they turn the key to On but not run, wait ten seconds and verify the light shows up, as all other cars would. The reason I know about that process is the PO of my other donor vehicle actually took the cluster apart and put black electrical tape over the CEL. Probably to get it sold easier. I eventually figured it out by taking it apart and shining a flashlight through each dash light area and realizing that no light came through. They had it between the matte background piece and the actual light so it was very difficult to see. Building a gauge cluster is unknown territory for me. Ive been watching the YouTube channel Jeep Gear & Gadgets where they document their LS swap into an LJ. But they are clearly not in an emissions state and dont seem to care that the VIN doesnt match. Also seriously considering registering the Jeep with family out of state just to get around this.
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Apr 16, 2021 01:42
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Drunk Beekeeper posted:Thanks for the advice! I think one option may be to build my own gauge cluster that feeds off all the GM data. I think the basics would be easy such as oil pressure, tach, voltage, etc. This is an option as well, though the TJ's fuel sender doesn't play nicely with any known aftermarket fuel gauge. I think there are some that will be "close enough" but expect either full or empty or possibly both to not really be full/empty. If you're going for full CA-style emissions compliance you'd likely need to retrofit GM parts back there so that the GM computer can run evap tests.
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Apr 16, 2021 02:26
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How does this work with a full aftermarket ECU? Alternatively, if you left the Jeep ECU connected to basically just power, o2 sensors, and the OBD2 port, how much would you even need to trick it so it doesn't realize something is wrong? Like it's reading legit emissions data about the cat and otherwise merrily sending injector pulses etc to an engine it doesn't realize isn't there. My experience with a late 90s jeep that never threw a code about the fist sized lump of catalyst rattling around an otherwise empty can leads me to believe engine computers from that era weren't super sophisticated. Edit: Would it be possible for a shop to change the VIN in the GM ECU? I can think of some reasons they'd want to make this borderline impossible, but not every decision prioritizes security. Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Apr 16, 2021 |
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Apr 16, 2021 03:16
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A few things that the last few posts bring up: - GM ECU with Jeep VIN might work, but I'm not sure if the ECU will even allow it, it'll mean you can't use hptuners since it checks VIN to know what it's working with, it won't get you out of the monitor count issue, and it won't save you from emissions test systems where they do an ECU cal whitelisting system or checksumming system, which is common IIRC. - custom gauge cluster might work but it's non trivial. One of my acquaintances is working on a project to build a data converter that takes in LS ECU data from CAN bus (07 up IIRC) and outputs Chrysler CCD which will work with many 97-mid 00s Jeeps. He might do PCI as well which would add support for other Jeeps. He is considering contracting me to do the final hardware design and board layout (he's a software guy and has the software doing great, but the hardware only at a prototype level right now) but we haven't actually signed anything yet. - running both ECUs. A common trick, works well for most gauges, the tach can be hard but if you put a tone wheel on the harmonic balancer that matches the Jeep pattern it'll work. The only issue with emissions testing this kind of setup is the ECU will have a LOT of DTCs set - every coil driver, every injector driver, basically every sensor and actuator other than oil and temp will be set and most of the emissions monitors won't ever run because of the codes set, and even if they did, the ECU is no longer in charge so you'll still get a bunch of rationality codes and it will refuse to try and run emissions. Essentially you'd have to "blue pill" the ECU into thinking everything is fine and it absolutely is not. It would be easier to modify the Jeep ECU firmware to not actually run the engine and simply report everything is fine, but even that is fraught with hazards because there's a good chance you'll get caught unless you know a smog guy and can basically beta test this with their machine and run through all the corner cases to make sure it doesn't accidentally give the game away if you do something in the wrong sequence, for example outputting data as if the engine is running and everything is fine even when the engine is off or something. I'm honestly not sure what to do about vin check plus plugin emissions. There's no easy answer. Federal compliance is easy, you swap the engine and all emissions equipment from the donor, here's your cookie, you comply. Getting your patched together Frankenstein vehicle to comply with the particular state system rules that were written by people who don't swap engines and don't understand or care because 99.99% of the voters buy a new car every 5 years and never swap the motor? Good luck.
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Apr 16, 2021 05:27
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kastein posted:I'm honestly not sure what to do about vin check plus plugin emissions. There's no easy answer. Federal compliance is easy, you swap the engine and all emissions equipment from the donor, here's your cookie, you comply. Getting your patched together Frankenstein vehicle to comply with the particular state system rules that were written by people who don't swap engines and don't understand or care because 99.99% of the voters buy a new car every 5 years and never swap the motor? Good luck. Ive heard a theory that the more strict states are better about this than the less strict states (in places where you need a smog check, of course) because the places where they want the stricter rules actually work on the implementation. In places where they believe everything the government does is bad they dont bother paying for a decent implementation. A Land Cruiser shop recently moved from Wyoming to California and he said the difference was night and day - nobody in Wyoming could actually tell him what the rules were or how to meet them. In California they had a process for everything. He might disagree with the rules but at least he could figure out how to meet them.
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Apr 16, 2021 06:24
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I wouldn't be surprised if you were right, honestly. It's easier to get people mad about incompetent government so you can throw it all out if you just make it useless in the first place.
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Apr 16, 2021 08:08
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Cat Hatter posted:How does this work with a full aftermarket ECU? It'd never pass an OBD2 inspection anywhere. Cat Hatter posted:Alternatively, if you left the Jeep ECU connected to basically just power, o2 sensors, and the OBD2 port, how much would you even need to trick it so it doesn't realize something is wrong? Like it's reading legit emissions data about the cat and otherwise merrily sending injector pulses etc to an engine it doesn't realize isn't there. A valid question and I also wonder how many of the emissions codes can be set to report always-ready via HPTuners or the like. Unfortunately it requires the MPVI2 instead of ye olde original HPTuners interface so I haven't bothered trying to do anything with my TJ's computer yet Cat Hatter posted:Edit: Would it be possible for a shop to change the VIN in the GM ECU? I can think of some reasons they'd want to make this borderline impossible, but not every decision prioritizes security. Most shops probably would not, but it is possible. HPTuners can't do this because their licensing model is based on VINs and they have no way to license something like "2003 Tahoe computer but with a VIN that says 1999 Jeep" - the VIN and the OS have to match. Programming methods that aren't based on this licensing (PCMHammer, LSDroid, etc) are not held to this and the GM computer will take whatever VIN you feed it. But yes, this would also run afoul of "certified calibration". It's stupid because a 4.7 stroker is not, never was, and never will be a "certified calibration" anywhere, but it's infinitely easier to get that through emissions even though it'll certainly put out worse exhaust than a stock LS or Atlas. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Apr 16, 2021 |
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Apr 16, 2021 20:00
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I wish they'd let people with edge cases just opt for a sniffer test. I bet an LS with no cat is probably cleaner than a 4.0 married to my old cat that passed Atlanta's emissions: I only replaced it because it sounded like I was driving around with a rock tumbler under the car.
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Apr 16, 2021 22:15
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