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Nebalebadingdong posted:Yeah that's the game base. Warmaster uses 40x20 bases for everything except characters. I've seen STL files for Warmaster-specific bases that have recessed "trenches" for slotting in strips of dudes/dudettes like you have here, so that the texture would sit flat.
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 17:24 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 22:09 |
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jesus WEP posted:I’m always a bit nervous of throwing something as flammable as meths or ipa into the ultrasonic. probably completely irrational My buddy puts the models in a small jar of acetone and runs that in the ultrasonic cleaner full of water. No problems to speak of. he still does this in the garage of course
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 17:36 |
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jesus WEP posted:I’m always a bit nervous of throwing something as flammable as meths or ipa into the ultrasonic. probably completely irrational I've used mine with meths a good few times, I had a big ebay lot needing stripped and its only a small ultrasonic cleaner, so it was running continuously for about half an hour, the meths heated to about body temperature, so I let it cool back down for a while before running it again, because better safe than sorry. I kept an eye on it obviously, but it was fine.
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 17:59 |
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Don't throw your IPA into a ultrasonic. It will probably be fine but it also may burn your house down. Someone in a discord I hang out in had their ultrasonic cleaner full of IPA spontaneously combust, and would probably have burned their house down completely if they hadn't had quick reactions and a fire extinquisher nearby.
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 18:09 |
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So if theoretically you were an idiot and forgot to clean out your airbrush... what would that theoretical person do? Soak the whole brush in airbrush cleaner? Something else?
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 18:20 |
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Harvey Mantaco posted:So if theoretically you were an idiot and forgot to clean out your airbrush... what would that theoretical person do? Soak the whole brush in airbrush cleaner? Something else? Don't have a good solution but I do know that you shouldn't soak the whole thing, you can destroy the seals that way
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 18:22 |
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ipa, pipe cleaners, interdental brushes
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 18:22 |
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Harvey Mantaco posted:So if theoretically you were an idiot and forgot to clean out your airbrush... what would that theoretical person do? Soak the whole brush in airbrush cleaner? Something else? Disassemble it and clean each piece as thourouly as you can. Use only airbrush cleaner otherwise you'll melt any plastic bits like the joints (obviously if you're cleaning a piece with no plastic then have at it). Buy some of these dental hygiene pick things, they are cheaper than the hobby ones and work better (and also being made of plastic they won't damage your airbrush). When you tighten the nozzle back on, stop screwing as soon as you feel even the smallest resistance - this is the most fragile piece of the airbrush and many people broke it. Check your reassembly with water, if there are bubbles it's either still clogged or you didn't tighten the nozzle enough. Source: That theoretical person you're talking about is me 3 years ago, then 2 years ago, and almost a week ago.
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 18:31 |
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Furism posted:Disassemble it and clean each piece as thourouly as you can. Use only airbrush cleaner otherwise you'll melt any plastic bits like the joints (obviously if you're cleaning a piece with no plastic then have at it). Buy some of these dental hygiene pick things, they are cheaper than the hobby ones and work better (and also being made of plastic they won't damage your airbrush). When you tighten the nozzle back on, stop screwing as soon as you feel even the smallest resistance - this is the most fragile piece of the airbrush and many people broke it. Check your reassembly with water, if there are bubbles it's either still clogged or you didn't tighten the nozzle enough. Thanks, I'll theoretically do this!
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 18:33 |
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BaronVanAwesome posted:I've seen STL files for Warmaster-specific bases that have recessed "trenches" for slotting in strips of dudes/dudettes like you have here, so that the texture would sit flat. I actually got in touch with someone who does just this. It also inspired me to start messing with blender: The Knights are made by Forest Dragon, but I've created a base with an insert and am adding some 3D grass tufts. Maybe it would print okay?
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 19:51 |
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I actually got in touch with someone who does just this. It also inspired me to start messing with blender: I lurk in like a dozen 3D printing threads/groups but I don't own one myself (yet), so I don't have a lot of expertise on the actual process side, sadly. We DO have a really experienced 3D print thread in hobbies/crafts/houses here on SA if you're not already in there. One day a Saturn will come up for not 1 million dollars and I will finally be made whole. And maybe a PLA printer. And maybe a wash station. And maybe...
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 19:58 |
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BaronVanAwesome posted:I lurk in like a dozen 3D printing threads/groups but I don't own one myself (yet), so I don't have a lot of expertise on the actual process side, sadly. I dont own a printer and have no space for one, but I'll check out to make sure I'm not missing something obvious for when it comes time to printing!
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 20:02 |
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There's also a 3d printing for tabletop thread right here in trad games. It's pretty new though https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 20:11 |
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With the earlier talk about stippling, do you think the stippling technique could replicate/approximate the mottled/tortoiseshell pattern of moth wings like this? Edit: vvvvv That makes total sense, and I hope my wings come out as good as your capes. Dienes fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Apr 19, 2021 |
# ? Apr 19, 2021 21:36 |
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I think so, but a slightly faster version would be to use a very small sponge. Which is sort of a less accurate stipple. Really depends on the scale of the object. If it's a little part of the model, stipple. If it's a cape or robe then use a sponge with some stippling for really fine detail touchups. I'm still very very proud of the sponging/stippling I did for the camo cloaks on my space marine snipers, which was just done with an eyeshadow sponge and mixing a grey scale gradient from black and white So for that, start with a black base. Then sponge grey, then an orange brown, then mix off-white or a pale yellow into the orange brown to do the bright colors. Something like that.
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 22:22 |
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Crossposting from the BattleTech thread.PoptartsNinja posted:Finally finished up my Fortress-class DropShip. Not sure what I'm going to call it yet. Probably the Quilt or the Patchwork or something.
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 22:32 |
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Harvey Mantaco posted:So if theoretically you were an idiot and forgot to clean out your airbrush... what would that theoretical person do? Soak the whole brush in airbrush cleaner? Something else? https://spraygunner.com/createx-4008-restorer-4oz/ Disassemble and soak metal parts (not the body). Do not spray it through the airbrush. You can strain, rebottle and reuse the restorer afterwards.
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# ? Apr 19, 2021 23:06 |
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Finished painting up this bloodbowl werewolf! Really happy with how these guys are coming out so far. Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Apr 20, 2021 |
# ? Apr 20, 2021 04:10 |
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Verisimilidude posted:
Another great one; a simple scheme executed cleanly paying back dividends. That verdant green looks fantastic. I must have missed the zombie lineman earlier but that skin tone gradient is also excellent.
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# ? Apr 20, 2021 17:31 |
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Can somebody from Europe recommend a good bottle shaker that isn't overpriced? I only need it for the more difficult paints like "Liquid Pigment" and some metallics, or bottles I haven't used for a few months.
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# ? Apr 21, 2021 12:46 |
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Furism posted:Can somebody from Europe recommend a good bottle shaker that isn't overpriced? I only need it for the more difficult paints like "Liquid Pigment" and some metallics, or bottles I haven't used for a few months. I just got one of these. Not the most powerful thing in the world but it works just fine.
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# ? Apr 21, 2021 12:59 |
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Does anyone have any tutorials they can share for blocking off with tape / painting those cool fleur-de-lis and such on Bretonnian models?
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# ? Apr 21, 2021 17:23 |
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Did couple of more blood ghosts. Kinda happy with photographing this time!
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# ? Apr 21, 2021 19:02 |
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Chunkystyle posted:Did couple of more blood ghosts. Kinda happy with photographing this time! I love the gloopy blood ghosts. Everyone's seen spooky ghosts, spectral ghosts, wispy ghosts, and gossamer ghosts. These guys are all messy, moist and ready to mangle.
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# ? Apr 21, 2021 22:35 |
Help me pick out some paints, friends! I've been having fun following the fairly basic painting guide for the clanrats and I will finish this regiment soon, I'm down to 5 more rattos and then its time for a second regiment. Now, I've been having my own ideas for a paint scheme. It's going to be a modification of this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAU8Xv_U3lA I want to use matte black as the primer, and I want to use kind of a brownish, rusty and metallic cover for the weapons and metal bits for my next one. Agrax and Leadbelcher worked great, i will likely just continue to do that. For clothing, I wanted something that was like a purple. I've got Army Painter Purple and i bought Genestealer Purple for a lighter shade. I've heard good things about using Nuln Oil as a shader, what do you guys think? Also with purple, I wanted to use a very bright green for the warpstone and such, what as the best ways to get that creepy, glowy green for poison-tipped blades and warpstone powered weapons and stuff? That's the general Aesthetic i wanted to go for my personal rat army, a nice 90's kid's show aesthetic with bright purples and greens, poison with green and opulence with the purple. I even came up with my own idea for a clan( I'm going to assume the fact that you just pick a clan type, each of which has millions of sub-clans is an open invitation to make up your own fanfiction.). I've even been looking into doing a bit of Kitbashing, having seen someone put a Verminlord's head and tails on a slaneesh thing. This hobby is fun Kitbash I found: TheDiceMustRoll fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Apr 22, 2021 |
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# ? Apr 22, 2021 03:16 |
So I didn’t realise until too late that dreads aren’t supposed to be chicken walkers. Battletech / Blood Angels crossover!
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# ? Apr 22, 2021 04:06 |
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TheDiceMustRoll posted:Help me pick out some paints, friends! I haven't tried it but Tesseract Glow is a contrast paint for all the glowy bits on Necrons so that might work for Warpstone and poison blades if you play around with layers and tinting.
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# ? Apr 22, 2021 04:10 |
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TheDiceMustRoll posted:Help me pick out some paints, friends! Sounds like a good strong colour scheme, you'll have to post pictures when its done! Tesseract glow might be good for warpstone like Eej said; Its what I used to paint the magic flames on this guy; Literally just white undercoat, then slap on the Tesseract Glow. It naturally pools green in recesses and leaves the raised areas tinted yellow. You could go in with some white afterwards if you wanted to push the effect I think. Also makes for easy mode object source lighting, as its quite translucent you can slap it on top of your base colours to give a passing impression that the flame is casting light onto the figure. If thats too bright you could maybe think of Hexwraith Flame, its a similar idea but the effect isnt as pronounced and its a more sickly green, less yellow and vibrant. Not the best picture but this guy Is just white undercoat, Hexwraith flame, and a white dry brush. You can use both of course, this guy had his magic flame painted with Hexwraith, then the end (and the bit in the middle where a flame was sort of forking off) was heavily drybrushed white and then Tesseract glow over that.
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# ? Apr 22, 2021 17:34 |
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Got another gloss varnish of a different brand and this one tints blue instead of yellow. But unlike the previous one over bare white plastic there's no colouring at all. Think it's reacting with the white primer I'm using. I'm ruining a lot of plastic this week.
sassassin fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Apr 22, 2021 |
# ? Apr 22, 2021 22:48 |
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I finished another take. I know I'm going to redo the sword, whenever I figure out what that's going to be, but I do like how some of this turned out.
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 04:22 |
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sassassin posted:Got another gloss varnish of a different brand and this one tints blue instead of yellow. But unlike the previous one over bare white plastic there's no colouring at all. Think it's reacting with the white primer I'm using. I'm ruining a lot of plastic this week. You can always use pieces of sprue to test on.
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 06:55 |
I finished my first squad of Clan-rats. Tons of fun, very enjoyable. Glue for the base is still drying but this...this a good hobby. I liked it. The warhams community is pretty great and kind.
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 10:41 |
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Crossposting for Space skaven love The back piece that goes up top is just warpstone, with chain dangling holding even more warpstone.
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 16:45 |
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Needed a break, painted a tiny Ian McKellen
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 16:49 |
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Blocked in all the colors for this Valor Korp general. I think I want to go for a colorized black and white photo look, so I won't be going much further than this in terms of definition. Really happy with the color choices here as I start working out how to paint this army quickly. Sticking with as few steps as possible, this took me about 30 minutes to get to this point.
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 17:17 |
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Winklebottom posted:Needed a break, painted a tiny Ian McKellen Now throw him down a neverending hole and he'll come out the other side white and that's how you paint white. nice work
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 18:14 |
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Finished this model I think (except for some kind of varnish, but I'll hold off until I finish a few more). Really happy with the glow effect but I can't seem to capture it effectively on camera, it's much more noticeable in person since the blue of the coat and the glow of the blade are very different saturation levels and tones.
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 22:09 |
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Last Christmas my 6 years old convinced his grand mother to buy him one of the new SM vs Necron box. I asked him if I could paint the two "bosses" but he said I should paint them all except a couple he wanted for himself. Cool, free minis to train / test on! So I painted Shiny Marines as a way to test a metallic base with something like 6 or 8 layers of ink glaze over it. I think they turned out a little too dark but I kind of like them. The main problem with this is you can't really gently caress up it seems. Mistakes are virtually impossible to fix, unless you re-do the whole process for even the slightest wrong brush stroke. I wasn't that committed to them so I was just extra careful, but there are a bunch of mistakes that are hard on the eye. Oh well, I really like how shiny they are. I used Vallejo Metal Varnish and it seems to be giving just the right amount of gloss. Sorry for the crappy pictures.
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 22:24 |
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Verisimilidude posted:
That is a very cool glow effect!
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 22:29 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 22:09 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:nice work Thanks, he's going down the first neverending hole I find, together with his balrog buddy once I get that done
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# ? Apr 23, 2021 23:01 |