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Haven't had much time to paint this weekend but I managed to finish a couple of these soldiers.
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Apr 26, 2021 19:53
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The theme of this month's painting contest at my LGS was "Big, Bad, Evil Guy" so I made a viking. The new thing I tried with this guy was making a large, fancy base for it out of a wooden plinth and a bunch of xps foam. I didn't have a lot of time to devote to it but it came out decently, even though there's a lot of stuff I could have put more effort into if I had the time. Anyway, meet Hreðjar the Hairy      I turned it in at the store today and all the staff were super stoked by it. It was such an awesome feeling. Oh and apparently I did win the contest last time, in that they just picked the top quarter of the entries as winners, not like a structured first, second, third etc list. But hey, still did better than expected. Hope to do well again this time.
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Apr 26, 2021 23:52
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Beefeater1980 posted:And now I feel terrible. It was really striking! I took this as a suggestion and punched up the Warhammer's panel lining with a little bright orange. Since the metallic red panels weren't as striking as I'd hoped, I brought back some of the gold to make them shine.  I also finished a little over a lance of Crucis Lancers. Unfortunately I can't paint the rest of the company until Wave 2 hits, but it's nice to know in advance that my colors really work. BattleMaster  Locust  Marauder  Shadow Hawk  And House Davion's premier totem 'Mech, the very living emblem of the Federated Suns' military prowess: the Valkyrie!  The Valkyrie is a piece of garbage nobody outside of House Davion was stupid enough to use until Hanse Davion tricked Defiance Industries into making it in 3025. 
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Apr 27, 2021 00:04
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Crosspost: I made a cherub to replace the monopod I lost. Ended up cutting the sword out of its hand and reshaping the banner a little bit. Then added a computer to its back.   I'm not sure how I'm going to attach this though. I was thinking steel hook in the hand holding some yarn dipped in pva or something for the texture of rope, but I think that might be a bit weak in terms of strength. Ended up just throwing some wire on it so I could get an idea of a look. 
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Apr 27, 2021 00:16
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Trying to find a good satin varnish for minis should I just get this? https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Mecha-Varnish-Painting-Accessories/dp/B074TSFT7V/ I have a cheapo airbrush
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Apr 27, 2021 01:38
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My friend and I have been laboring on 3d printing Epic forces in AT scale, and I finally got paint on my centerpiece:   She's got a ways to go, and I'm still waiting on an 80mm base but this is my first time airbrushing stripes and I am not going back.
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Apr 27, 2021 02:01
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moths posted:3d printing ... waiting on an 80mm base  Just print one
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Apr 27, 2021 02:21
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I'm buying non hobby paint a bunch lately. Can anyone point me to a guide on what to grab re soft/hard body acrylics, Gouche etc. I literally have no clue what I'm dealing with
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Apr 27, 2021 02:24
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Trying to find a good satin varnish for minis I dunno about the Satin, but I highly recommend the Mecha Matte, so I'd assume the Satin would be good too.
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Apr 27, 2021 02:48
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Anyone recommend a solid primer? My buddy swears by Mechanicus Standard Grey, but I mostly just swear when I see a $45 price tag on spray paint. OP is a bit vague, was hoping for some specific direction. Grey preferred, but I see no reason white or black wouldn’t work.
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Apr 27, 2021 04:03
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I ride bikes all day posted:Anyone recommend a solid primer? My buddy swears by Mechanicus Standard Grey, but I mostly just swear when I see a $45 price tag on spray paint. OP is a bit vague, was hoping for some specific direction. Grey preferred, but I see no reason white or black wouldn’t work. I use Rust-oleum 2x ultra-cover primer "flat gray" and it seems to work great on all the GW plastic I've done with it.
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Apr 27, 2021 04:40
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w00tmonger posted:I'm buying non hobby paint a bunch lately. Can anyone point me to a guide on what to grab re soft/hard body acrylics, Gouche etc. I literally have no clue what I'm dealing with I like Golden hard body. Plus they offer both a zinc and titanium white so you can cover your transparent and opaque needs. They also have a high flow series which I've been enjoying. Just be sure to grab various mediums, like thinning, glaze, matte, etc. Vallejo has some very inexpensive bottles.
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Apr 27, 2021 04:41
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I ride bikes all day posted:Anyone recommend a solid primer? My buddy swears by Mechanicus Standard Grey, but I mostly just swear when I see a $45 price tag on spray paint. OP is a bit vague, was hoping for some specific direction. Grey preferred, but I see no reason white or black wouldn’t work. Badger stynylrez.
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Apr 27, 2021 04:50
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 Just the basic color scheme, but this is the first one I did so I wanted to post it.
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Apr 27, 2021 05:29
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The Demilich posted:Badger stynylrez. It's this.
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Apr 27, 2021 05:33
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Finished another couple of 'Mechs tonight. Commando  Griffin 
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Apr 27, 2021 06:27
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I ride bikes all day posted:Anyone recommend a solid primer? My buddy swears by Mechanicus Standard Grey, but I mostly just swear when I see a $45 price tag on spray paint. OP is a bit vague, was hoping for some specific direction. Grey preferred, but I see no reason white or black wouldn’t work. Whatever costs less than $5
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Apr 27, 2021 08:09
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Just picked up a bottle of Mr Dissolved Putty on the recommendation of this thread and holy poo poo, I didn't know what I was missing. It makes filling cracks and divots a cinch and files down really nicely. I'll never go back to just filling joins and imperfections with green stuff.
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Apr 27, 2021 08:54
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Any acrylic primers that come in a big cheap rattlecan are just as good as each other imo. Shake a lot and heat in warm water before use. Poor workmen blame their tools (I know I do). The only reason to pay more is if you want a specific colour (like the army painter range) as a quick primer and basecoat in one.
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Apr 27, 2021 11:34
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tangy yet delightful posted:I use Rust-oleum 2x ultra-cover primer "flat gray" and it seems to work great on all the GW plastic I've done with it. Yeah, these. I use black, but I have to imagine their grey/white/whatever is just as good.
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Apr 27, 2021 14:05
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sassassin posted:Any acrylic primers that come in a big cheap rattlecan are just as good as each other imo. Shake a lot and heat in warm water before use. Poor workmen blame their tools (I know I do). This might be true for GW models, but it doesn’t apply to all types of plastic, Reaper Bones are notorious for not being compatible with many primers. When in doubt, test on some sprue or test figures before committing to expensive models.
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Apr 27, 2021 15:12
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Army Painter primers work great on Reaper Bones, at least.
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Apr 27, 2021 16:52
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PoptartsNinja posted:Army Painter primers work great on Reaper Bones, at least. I used an army painter primer on two reaper bones minis recently and it made them extremely tacky messes 
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Apr 27, 2021 17:57
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Wrr posted:I used an army painter primer on two reaper bones minis recently and it made them extremely tacky messes I only have that issue if I am over-optimistic about how much painting I am going to do and they sit around with just primer for a while. If its less than a couple days, it works great.
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Apr 27, 2021 18:03
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I'm finding the new gray Bones take spray primers pretty well.
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Apr 27, 2021 18:06
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Wrr posted:I used an army painter primer on two reaper bones minis recently and it made them extremely tacky messes Oh, man, that sucks! I believe you, I've just never had an issue with them. The Army Painter sprays were supposed to be just paint + whatever they use to aerosolize it without any of the usual suspects that gently caress with Reaper's PVC. I'll have to stop recommending it.
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Apr 27, 2021 18:17
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I use vallejo gloss black primer but brush it on because I'm a barbarian.
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Apr 27, 2021 18:42
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If you can, please save up and get a cheap airbrush/compressor even if it's only for priming. You will save money in the long run when you consider you'll no longer have to buy cans of primer. Instead I buy one bottle of vallejo primer that lasts me about 6-10 months, and I prime a ton of models. You can do it indoors, you can do it at any temperature/humidity/weather event, and your chance of skunking or messing things up drops to about 0%. Over the last year or two before I got my airbrush I've spent about $150 just on primer, whether it's GW, AP, Vallejo or cheap rattlecans. That's enough to buy a decent compressor/airbrush combo to get started with. It also opens up a lot of painting potential. My minis skyrocketed in quality once I got an airbrush. I can go from unprimed to painting in about 5 minutes, all from the comfort of my office. I can add zenithal highlights, finish large area base coats in a few minutes, and utilize my inks and contrast paints to the best of their capabilities. It is the most invaluable tool I've gotten for painting, and 90% of the time I'm just using it to prime models. Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 18:52
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These 38mm Conquest minis are big enough, let enough this 8"-ish tall Abomination. Full simple paint job though. 
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Apr 27, 2021 19:01
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Dang, how many forms does Frieza have
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Apr 27, 2021 19:07
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PoptartsNinja posted:Oh, man, that sucks! I believe you, I've just never had an issue with them. The Army Painter sprays were supposed to be just paint + whatever they use to aerosolize it without any of the usual suspects that gently caress with Reaper's PVC. I'll have to stop recommending it. Dienes posted:I only have that issue if I am over-optimistic about how much painting I am going to do and they sit around with just primer for a while. If its less than a couple days, it works great. Two of the three minis that I primed had that problem, but I don't think the third one did, mostly because I started painting that one first. Even then I feel like I remember it being tacky almost immediately? I don't really remember. Does the tackiness actually do anything to paint put over it or is it just gross? I wondering if I should buy a new version of the mini. Its the modern version of a mini I painted (poorly) as a kid and I want it to be a gift for my dad, so I really want it to be well done.
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Apr 27, 2021 19:21
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Wrr posted:I used an army painter primer on two reaper bones minis recently and it made them extremely tacky messes I actually did have an issue with rust-oleum white on the queen of hell mini making it tacky. I'm thinking I'll try matte varnish on it to then paint on top of that? It actually doesn't need to be perfect as I'm going to let my toddler paint it.
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Apr 27, 2021 19:42
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TotalHell posted:Yeah, these. I use black, but I have to imagine their grey/white/whatever is just as good. Their grey is solid. The white is ok but you have to have a light touch because it can get gloopy a lot faster than other ones.
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Apr 27, 2021 19:58
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Verisimilidude posted:If you can, please save up and get a cheap airbrush/compressor even if it's only for priming. You will save money in the long run when you consider you'll no longer have to buy cans of primer. Instead I buy one bottle of vallejo primer that lasts me about 6-10 months, and I prime a ton of models. You can do it indoors, you can do it at any temperature/humidity/weather event, and your chance of skunking or messing things up drops to about 0%. To add to this, get a cheap single action external mix airbrush for priming and basecoats. Harbor Freight sells a kit with a quick change airbrush and 5 or 6 jars that can be hot swapped, and it's like having infinite rattlecans.
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Apr 27, 2021 19:59
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The Demilich posted:I like Golden hard body. Plus they offer both a zinc and titanium white so you can cover your transparent and opaque needs. They also have a high flow series which I've been enjoying. Seconding Golden High Flow and Fluid Acrylics. I use those plus high flow mediums and thinners. Bonus: Golden is a employee owned company!
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Apr 27, 2021 20:35
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Wrr posted:Does the tackiness actually do anything to paint put over it or is it just gross? PVC is hydrophobic, it doesn't absorb water, so if you're in a high humidity area it could be water getting trapped between the primer and the PVC. I'm in a really low humidity area so that could be why I've never seen that happen? It could also be the paint reacting to any leftover release agent is left on the mini, Reaper doesn't clean their minis very carefully so I like to give them all a heavy scrubdown in soapy water before I try painting them. The big concern with Reaper Bones is: some solvents found in some rattlecan primers will break down the PVC and melt it. If that starts happening it pretty much destroys the mini. Army Painter sprays are supposed to be one of the 'safe' brands for PVC because they're not supposed to contain those solvents. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 20:42
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What kind of lamp setup do you recommend?
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Apr 27, 2021 20:44
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Virtual Russian posted:Seconding Golden High Flow and Fluid Acrylics. I use those plus high flow mediums and thinners. Oh that's awesome. I love Golden's Titanium White. Heavy body acrylic with some flow improver and gloss varnish gives you a white that can be applied smoothly with a brush.
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Apr 27, 2021 21:13
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Flavius Aetass posted:What kind of lamp setup do you recommend? Can't remember the name, but go get a pair of those articulating Ikea lamps with a good warmth of bulb. 10/10 and cheap
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Apr 27, 2021 21:33
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Tertial, I believe. I have two with Ottlite bulbs installed and they light up every fuckin thing. I got the bulbs at Joann's with a 40% discount, ymmv.
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Apr 27, 2021 22:06
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