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so no suggestions for satin varnish?
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Apr 27, 2021 22:11
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GreenBuckanneer posted:so no suggestions for satin varnish? Vallejo's Mecha Satin is my go-to if you've got an airbrush. It should brush on just fine too, but I haven't had a chance to test that yet.
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Apr 27, 2021 22:14
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Is that $99 Master airbrush kit on amazon any good?
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Apr 27, 2021 22:29
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Toebone posted:Is that $99 Master airbrush kit on amazon any good? It's a perfectly serviceable kit. My badger setup is more comfortable to use over a painting session (quieter and better ergos), but you'll be able to squirt paint with the master with little issue.
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Apr 27, 2021 22:44
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Toebone posted:Is that $99 Master airbrush kit on amazon any good? If it's the one with the tank-less compressor, I don't recommend that. You really want a compressor with a tank like this one https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Airbrushing-Multipurpose/dp/B01M33C8MV You get more even airflow, and the motor isn't running all the time. My friend even had an issue with tons of water coming through the hose of his tank-less compressor used in a cold garage.
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Apr 27, 2021 23:09
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Thanks for the recommends on primer. Think I'm going to go with the rust-oleam. Been out of the hobby for a decade, just can't bring myself to delve into the mysteries of airbrushing.
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Apr 27, 2021 23:14
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We'll be here when you are 
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Apr 27, 2021 23:30
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Brand recommendation for inks? I want to start trying more glaze/filter style painting. I mostly use scale75 for paints and a few of those feel pretty inky with low viscosity and translucency (violet and jade from their fantasy range especially) but I've not tried the real thing before.
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Apr 28, 2021 00:07
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Daler Rowney and Liquitex are two solid ink brands you can find at most art supply stores
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Apr 28, 2021 00:13
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sassassin posted:Brand recommendation for inks? I want to start trying more glaze/filter style painting. I mostly use scale75 for paints and a few of those feel pretty inky with low viscosity and translucency (violet and jade from their fantasy range especially) but I've not tried the real thing before. Scale 75 sells ink if you want small amounts of lots of colours, otherwise Liquitex is everywhere and is decent.
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Apr 28, 2021 00:26
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And if you can find it try to get some Schmincke Transparent White ink. Most white is Titanium White and titanium is extremely opaque, which is great if you want things to look white. Transparent White is, as far as I know, a Zinc White which is, well, transparent and won't obliterate anything underneath it or mix it with so it's a nice tool.
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Apr 28, 2021 00:26
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Painted up a mini for one of the players in a D&D campaign I'm running! Really happy with the color choices here. Everything contrasts well and the golds are all distinct. The cloak and the sword tie in nicely since they both used Nihilak Oxide, and the red has a solid muted look, which makes the saturated cloak and flames really pop.
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Apr 28, 2021 02:32
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Verisimilidude posted:Painted up a mini for one of the players in a D&D campaign I'm running! Really happy with the color choices here. Everything contrasts well and the golds are all distinct. The cloak and the sword tie in nicely since they both used Nihilak Oxide, and the red has a solid muted look, which makes the saturated cloak and flames really pop. dang that turned out good!
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Apr 28, 2021 02:45
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More adventures in contrast, here are a couple of Khagra's Ravagers from Underworlds I've done over the past week or so.  The NMM's still a bit rough in places, but I think I've got the idea. Everything else (including the base for the NMM) is Contrast over a shade-and-white-drybrush preshade.
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Apr 28, 2021 08:45
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I want to paint a sort of "grim dark" Orruk (got the Morgok's Krushas Beastgrave box for that). By this I mean I'd like the armor to be a kind of battered, worn-out, hosed up steel armor. But simply painting it a steel color with some highlights seems like it wouldn't be very interesting. So I plan on using some chipping medium to reveal some rust and damage but I'm not sure what to do for the overlay color. Should I mix some sort of Corvus Black/German Grey paint with a Steel color (I use Vallejo's Metal Color line) to make that color more interesting, with appropriate glazing of black ink in the recesses and a lighter metal color on the highlights? Should I apply a shade/thinned down contrast paint overall (including the rust) or should I do that before I chip the paint away? And for the sake of contrast I was thinking of going for a brighter shade of green for the skin. Does it mean I should add some very subtle touches of green on the armor, or quite the contrary? I have paralysis by analysis 
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Apr 28, 2021 09:18
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Bit of a long shot but has anyone tried the battery powered airbrushes? Watching video reviews/testing it appears that it needs some thinner for acrylic primer and paint but they seem like a less space intensive and quieter option for apartment dwellers.
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Apr 28, 2021 15:59
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MasterBuilder posted:Bit of a long shot but has anyone tried the battery powered airbrushes? Watching video reviews/testing it appears that it needs some thinner for acrylic primer and paint but they seem like a less space intensive and quieter option for apartment dwellers. Yeah watching review videos it looks like they could be used for priming. They're cheap so it's worth trying out.
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Apr 28, 2021 16:04
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Trying some new techniques with this one: Primed Grey Stippled on dark grey, then light grey, then white with some torn up foam Agrax earthshade in deep recesses Highly watered down Troll Slayer Orange for rusty effects. https://imgur.com/d5SPjKc How do I make this image just show up in the thread?
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Apr 28, 2021 17:20
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SERPUS posted:Trying some new techniques with this one: You need to link the image, rather than the "post", and use the either img tags or timg tags (if its big and you'd like it to be small but expandable), like this:  Once you upload an image to imgur you can click on something like "get share links" to get the link to the image.
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Apr 28, 2021 17:34
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SERPUS posted:Trying some new techniques with this one: The rust on the vertical surfaces reads right but on the horizontal ones it kinda looks more like an oil spill. But the sponging looks great so try doing rust with sponging just like you did the wear and tear, and if you added a teeny bit of bright metal sponging at the most worn areas it will look like the wear has gone all the way to the bare metal.
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Apr 28, 2021 17:36
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Furism posted:I want to paint a sort of "grim dark" Orruk (got the Morgok's Krushas Beastgrave box for that). By this I mean I'd like the armor to be a kind of battered, worn-out, hosed up steel armor. But simply painting it a steel color with some highlights seems like it wouldn't be very interesting. So I plan on using some chipping medium to reveal some rust and damage but I'm not sure what to do for the overlay color. You can actually get quite a bit of depth of out metallics by focusing on texture and volume. The Orruk armor lends itself well to this since you want it to be beat to hell, which means lots of grimy washes, drybrushing, rust effects, etc. I see a lot of people doing the classic ork freehand flames / checkerboards on them too, which is a nice way to make it more visually interesting. Here's a few examples of different ways you could approach it:  This one is using chipping fluid and painted armor, which is probably the way I've seen it done most often. The color definitely pops, but it's not what I'd call "grimdark" - I do think you could use a darker, desaturated color for it just fine though - something like a dark yellow or dark maroon would look good, and the combination of darker rust chips and brighter edge wear creates a lot of interesting texture and contrast.  This one went the all-metal route, and went for a bronze look instead of iron. You could do the same thing with heavily rusted armor - building up texture by using chipping fluid / sponges for different rust tones, with a really bright fresh rust in the deepest crevices and around rivets, and bright metal on the highest points where the armor rubs / smacks into things. If you're going for a brighter green skin tone, this would work pretty well since orange complements green almost as well as red does, but doesn't have that unfortunate "christmas tree" effect that the red / green combo creates.  This one is some maniac's NMM version, but it's still a really good example of using volume shading to create visual interest. Lots of contrast from the painted lighting source alone while using a fairly muted palette, and you get some really nice subtle contrast from the use of a dark blue in the shadows and a bright orange for the rust. You could do the exact same thing with metallics by just using dark blue glazes in the shadows and using some rust-colored washes / pigment powder in the recesses. At the end of the day you probably want the viewer's attention on the Orruks' faces, so having darker, beat-up armor that isn't immediately dragging your eyes away from the model's face is not a bad thing. In fact I'd say the sculpts basically do a perfect job of "framing" the face / upper chest region that way. Grizzled Patriarch fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 18:19
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I have some doge money and i'm thinking about getting a proper set of paints. Games Workshop doesn't sell them, of course, because why would they?? Is Army Painter well regarded? Is there another big value set y'all would recommend to give me a good chromatic base?
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Apr 28, 2021 20:22
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I like Army Painter's big D&D themed box. They're half-sized bottles, but you get a ton of variety for $60 (assuming discounters) and it comes with an owlbear.
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Apr 28, 2021 20:49
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Ignite Memories posted:I have some doge money and i'm thinking about getting a proper set of paints. Games Workshop doesn't sell them, of course, because why would they?? I think vallejo and citadel are probably the most well-liked work horse brands. I have some army painter paints, and I'm not quite as happy with them as I am with vallejo ones (edit: they're fine though, they'll paint stuff). Generally, people recommend against buying big sets of paint, because you invariably get a bunch you'll never use. You're not really saving much, if you're never using three of the paints you get in a set of 20 for example. That's without going into sometimes you want some contrast paints, sometimes you want some airbrush paints, you also want washes and metallics and so on. The most common suggestion is to just buy the paints you need for whatever project/army/whatever you are doing. Personally, I actually prefer using vallejo 'air' paints even when I'm using my brush, because they have the right consistency and I don't have to gently caress around with my wet pallet all the time. Regardless, you'll eventually build up a nice set of paints by buying the ones you need for something anyway. I guess if you're going somewhere outside the reach of modern postal services, then it might be useful to buy a huge crate. Getting something with a set of red, blue, brown, white, black, metal, etc. is not a bad start of course, if you don't have any paints, but personally I'd recommend against getting a big box of anything. Revelation 2-13 fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Apr 28, 2021 |
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Apr 28, 2021 21:15
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Ignite Memories posted:I have some doge money and i'm thinking about getting a proper set of paints. Games Workshop doesn't sell them, of course, because why would they?? Vallejo is excellent if you want a very good base to work from. Decently priced, available everywhere. Citadel paint is generally pretty good, but both comparatively expensive and the bottles are pants-on-head stupid for miniatures. Army Painter - well the consensus seems to be their washes are marvellous, their technicals are ok, and their paints are just ok. P3 is fun, but both difficult to source more and more, and you might find the available range limiting. Scale 75 is excellent, but for some people can be difficult to source. Pro Acryl is getting an incredible name for itself, and is meant to be excellent. Insanely hard to get your hands on reliably.
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Apr 28, 2021 21:30
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Hated every army painter paint I've tried. Thrown or given all of them away. Good washes and colour primers though.
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Apr 28, 2021 21:56
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Reaper also has good sets and they're probably my favorite paint. Every Army Painter I've used has had a problem and never the same one
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Apr 28, 2021 22:40
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the vallejo game color 16 paint starter set is an excellent value proposition, it has literally everything you need to get started. all the paints in it are worth your time. buy that and a pot of agrax from citadel, you’re good for a while
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Apr 28, 2021 23:14
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jesus WEP posted:the vallejo game color 16 paint starter set is an excellent value proposition, it has literally everything you need to get started. all the paints in it are worth your time. buy that and a pot of agrax from citadel, you’re good for a while that's exactly what I did and it's working out well. just need 1 or 2 more flesh tones
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Apr 28, 2021 23:17
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Flavius Aetass posted:that's exactly what I did and it's working out well. just need 1 or 2 more flesh tones Vallejo Model Color has two skin tone sets, one that's unfortunately mostly caucasian but also one that's more varied
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Apr 29, 2021 00:01
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Cthulu Carl posted:Vallejo Model Color has two skin tone sets, one that's unfortunately mostly caucasian but also one that's more varied This set is really cool for some different kind of fantasy skin tones https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D4VFCKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Apr 29, 2021 00:06
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Crosspost: Been working on and off on two Dreadnoughts for gods knows how long. Decided to put some effort into getting them "basically finished" today.   I think the pics look better than in real life but oh well. I still need to finish the bases, pin them to said based, and actuality glue the Redemptor torso to the legs (it's just blue tacked above).
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Apr 29, 2021 04:50
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The Demilich posted:Crosspost: Hell yeah, these guys look cool.
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Apr 29, 2021 05:01
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holy poo poo
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Apr 29, 2021 05:01
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Is there an alright 3d printer thread on SA? Seems related to minis, can't find one though.
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Apr 29, 2021 22:43
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Magnetized and painted a murderhorse   
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Apr 29, 2021 22:50
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Working on those Dreadnought bases:
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Apr 29, 2021 22:50
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Is there an alright 3d printer thread on SA? Seems related to minis, can't find one though. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573
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Apr 29, 2021 23:27
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So I need a bunch of little butterflies, sized so as to interact with 30mm (but not, like, actually to-scale at 30mm for real-life butterflies because that would be too small). How would I go about finding such a thing? I tried a couple of fantasy and wargaming sites but the best I could do there was Reaper has a set of insect wings for conversions, which doesn't help much. A generic search turns up plastic toys but they're mostly sized for children to safely play with, which is too big. I tried a website specializing in model train parts, and they have butterflies as part of a 2D foliage set but that isn't really what I'm after either. Worst case scenario I can just make my own out of putty but I'm no great sculptor and they'd look a bit pudgy and out of place. Any ideas?
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Apr 30, 2021 00:52
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https://www.amazon.com/Butterfly-Kalolary-Paillettes-Holographic-Decoration%EF%BC%882/dp/B07YDM5HWH
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Apr 30, 2021 00:55
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