Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



peanut posted:

Do those tiles have a 1:2 ratio? You could do 2 vertical, 2 horizontal, in a checkboard pattern (like a loss edit, see below) or fat herringbone.

川三川三
三川三川
川三川三

That's often called a basket weave pattern.

actionjackson posted:

don't think I want to do a regular grid pattern, any thought on 1/2 offset vs. 1/3? The bathroom is pretty small and the tiles are 12x24". It seems like the visual effect of the 1/3 might not really be that noticeable in such a small space though (the sort of "ladder" of vertical lines as you look across horizontally).


Most tile companies will say to use a maximum 1/3 offset.
The reason is that the tiles often "cup" as they cool, creating (usually) a high point at the center and a low point at the corners. The easiest way to tell is to put them back to back and hold it up to the light edge wise to see if you can see daylight.

If you set a 50% running bond, you're creating the worst case scenario for lippage (when one tile sits higher than the one next to it), because you have your highest point sitting right next to the lowest point. A 1/3 bond mitigates this risk. Considering a lot of people want nice tight grout joints (think 1/8") this is a problem.

On the other hand if it's your house and the space isn't that big and you don't give a poo poo about lippage (which can be mitigated by opening your grout joint) go nuts. Your floor isn't going to burst into flames if you set with a 50% running bond pattern, you just might feel the edge of the tile with your bare feet.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

peanut posted:

I agree with this plan. You gotta keep that corner built-in cabinet.

My ideal plan would require putting the stove under the window (or removing the window)… whatever it takes to keep that proper outside-vented hood.

You also need to consider placement of counter-top appliances like microwaves, toasters, and coffee makers. Good luck!

This is the first thing that comes to mind whenever I see a stove under a window. And then all I can think about is the window getting gunked up and that you can't really keep your herbs and stuff on the window sill if there's a stove in front of it. It's fine if you don't cook and just have a show kitchen for pouring wine and reheating takeout, but OP's kitchen looks like it gets cooked in.

But if the stove vent really can't be moved from that wall, it's an option to put the stove under the window and to put the sink where I've drawn the stove. I'd also view taking out that window as a last resort because it would leave the kitchen windowless. Would be mitigated by adding a new window on the porch wall. However, moving windows and poo poo starts getting expensive, probably more so than a new stovepipe.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

AFewBricksShy posted:

That's often called a basket weave pattern.

Most tile companies will say to use a maximum 1/3 offset.
The reason is that the tiles often "cup" as they cool, creating (usually) a high point at the center and a low point at the corners. The easiest way to tell is to put them back to back and hold it up to the light edge wise to see if you can see daylight.

If you set a 50% running bond, you're creating the worst case scenario for lippage (when one tile sits higher than the one next to it), because you have your highest point sitting right next to the lowest point. A 1/3 bond mitigates this risk. Considering a lot of people want nice tight grout joints (think 1/8") this is a problem.

On the other hand if it's your house and the space isn't that big and you don't give a poo poo about lippage (which can be mitigated by opening your grout joint) go nuts. Your floor isn't going to burst into flames if you set with a 50% running bond pattern, you just might feel the edge of the tile with your bare feet.

thanks for the replies, I'm pretty much looking to go with the 1/3 or 1/2 offset. herringbone feels a bit more retro to me, like chevron, for some reason.

just to be clear, are you suggesting 1/3? it's a small bathroom (only buying 48 SF of tile) if that matters.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



actionjackson posted:

thanks for the replies, I'm pretty much looking to go with the 1/3 or 1/2 offset. herringbone feels a bit more retro to me, like chevron, for some reason.

just to be clear, are you suggesting 1/3? it's a small bathroom (only buying 48 SF of tile) if that matters.

The Tile Council of North America, as well as the manufacturers, will suggest 1/3.

I suggest going with what will make you happy, just understand that if you do 1/2, you may have a more difficult time with your joints, especially if you go with a thinner grout joint. On the other hand you probably wouldn't have noticed anyway had I not pointed it out.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

AFewBricksShy posted:

The Tile Council of North America, as well as the manufacturers, will suggest 1/3.

I suggest going with what will make you happy, just understand that if you do 1/2, you may have a more difficult time with your joints, especially if you go with a thinner grout joint. On the other hand you probably wouldn't have noticed anyway had I not pointed it out.

thanks!

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Most kitchens in houses I lived/visited in the US had the sink under a window, and the stove/oven on the opposite wall, or a parallel galley setup without windows.
Most kitchens in houses I lived/visited in Japan have the sink and stove (no oven) on the same unit, with a dish cabinet on another wall. Older houses put the sink/stove unit against the wall, with a dining table nearby (DK "dining-kitchen.")
House floorplans have changed to open layout (LDK "living-dining-kitchen"), with the sink and stove facing the living room. It's very nice to be able to see the living room while I'm cooking.

This site has very real before/after photos for each sample. Please enjoy the big grandma's house energy.
https://www.takara-standard.co.jp/reform/system_kitchen/case/

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

this one is pretty dope, too bad the fridge isn't counter depth but I suppose that would make the side wall look weird

Only registered members can see post attachments!

bee
Dec 17, 2008


Do you often sing or whistle just for fun?
Those look similar in colour to the ones we just used in our bathroom, which is also small in size. We ended up using square ones on the floor to avoid there been too much visual busy-ness in the room.



We did go with longer tiles laid horizontally on the walls and it seems to have worked well to make the room look like it's a little more spacious than it actually is:

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

that's a nice toilet

I'm going to see about having an electrician put in a new outlet behind mine (I'll be getting a new toto toilet along with the new tile) so I can use something beyond the most basic bidet seat

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

actionjackson posted:

This is going to be my new bathroom floor tile (my current floor is hideous). I don't think I want to do a regular grid pattern, any thought on 1/2 offset vs. 1/3? The bathroom is pretty small and the tiles are 12x24". It seems like the visual effect of the 1/3 might not really be that noticeable in such a small space though (the sort of "ladder" of vertical lines as you look across horizontally).


Unsure what you're doing for underlayment but be sure to look in to DITRA-HEAT if cold feet are a concern.

Over simplified video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7MrB_NBnzg

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I'm guessing they are using standard backer board

I have a 2.5x6 mat that covers most of the area I walk on

https://www.dwr.com/bath-bathroom-accessories/nodi-cotton-bathmat/2516273.html?lang=en_US

edit: no I did not pay $170 for that!!! haha

definitely an outlet purchase

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Apr 29, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

AFewBricksShy and others maybe you will have some thoughts on this

My mirror is cracked due to me being stupid, and it's 42x48 which is not a standard size at all. The vanity top only has a very short backsplash, so there is about 2.5 inches between that and the bottom of the mirror currently (see pic). The closest size I can find that is still 48" wide so that it matches the vanity width is 36" high, so that would then be an 8.5 inch gap. Do you think that size would look fine if I put in a backsplash? The backsplash area goes to the wall on the right side, and is open on the left. I could reduce the height of that area of course if I moved the top of the mirror down, but I don't really want to do that because it's a good position for my height.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

actionjackson posted:

AFewBricksShy and others maybe you will have some thoughts on this

My mirror is cracked due to me being stupid, and it's 42x48 which is not a standard size at all. The vanity top only has a very short backsplash, so there is about 2.5 inches between that and the bottom of the mirror currently (see pic). The closest size I can find that is still 48" wide so that it matches the vanity width is 36" high, so that would then be an 8.5 inch gap. Do you think that size would look fine if I put in a backsplash? The backsplash area goes to the wall on the right side, and is open on the left. I could reduce the height of that area of course if I moved the top of the mirror down, but I don't really want to do that because it's a good position for my height.



Pretty much any glass store should be able to cut you a mirror to whatever size you want.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Booley posted:

Pretty much any glass store should be able to cut you a mirror to whatever size you want.

I'll get a few estimates, thanks

edit: there are also some good circular frameless options that are quite affordable. Might be nice to have something that isn't rectangular in there.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fab-Glass-and-Mirror-Medium-Round-Beveled-Glass-Mirror-36-in-H-x-36-in-W-799456351780/304231697

edit:

I "drew" on the 36" and 42" diameter size. consider me the black box :p

I think 36" would work fine

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Apr 29, 2021

cheese eats mouse
Jul 6, 2007

A real Portlander now
So when are the monkeys showing up

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



Would a $4 glass cutter, a straight edge and a nice flat work surface be the easiest thing?
Just slice the mirror to a point where there's no broken corner anymore and rehang.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

AFewBricksShy posted:

Would a $4 glass cutter, a straight edge and a nice flat work surface be the easiest thing?
Just slice the mirror to a point where there's no broken corner anymore and rehang.

easiest for someone who knows what they are doing? sure. for me? doubt it. and having someone else involved will make it cost at least as much as just getting a new mirror.

I think part of it also is I figure with someone come in to repaint, including fixing up and repainting that wall, and with my other bathroom changes, it's a good time to make a change. And the round mirrors are very affordable. I also do like that a round mirror would introduce a shape to the bathroom that isn't rectangular, like everything else is.

https://www.fabglassandmirror.com/mirrors/wall-mirror-round

If this wasn't an option I'd definitely have it cut, probably by someone who knows what they are doing. I have no idea how much a good mirror is supposed to cost - the room and board ones are like 600 wtf

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Apr 30, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

seems like the 30" round with beveled edge might work well. The light fixture is 27.5" wide, and the sink is 20" wide. It obviously needs to be wider than the sink, but I think it needs to be at least a bit wider than the light as well.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Hi everybody! I recently closed on a 2BR/2BA condo. It's not gigantic, so I would like some help and opinions on what you all might choose to furnish a space like this.

The photo at the bottom here is the previous owner's setup. My TV will be in the same place, and I'll probably buy a couch and have a coffee table to go in the same space as they did, too. I have very little furniture currently as my roommate owned most of the stuff at my previous apartment.

I'm probably planning on this Article couch: https://www.article.com/product/3250/sven-briar-gray-sofa

I'm also considering instead a left sectional like this one https://www.article.com/product/3254/sven-briar-gray-left-sectional-sofa but my concern is the main room is a little small, so the chaise part would eat too much into the space. You'd have to awkwardly walk past it or walk close to the TV, around the coffee table, to get to the other side of the couch.

I considered a Sactional from Lovesac to give me more flexibility, but sadly it is past my budget at $3k+ for any reasonable 3-seater ~85" width couch.

What do you all think? Any ideas or opinions are welcome!



Also I'll skip the end table on the left side of the photo, instead I'll probably get a small 2 seater kitchen table, I feel that may look better to have a dedicated dining space.

Here's the light situation, you can see the fixture should be dedicated to some small dining area:

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 17:41 on May 6, 2021

Godspeed You! Black Conservative
Dec 30, 2006

by Fluffdaddy
Don’t get a lovesac sactional, they’re uncomfortable and expensive (and I own too many pieces of it now, trying to store them inside various closets)

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

Inner Light posted:

Hi everybody! I recently closed on a 2BR/2BA condo. It's not gigantic, so I would like some help and opinions on what you all might choose to furnish a space like this.

[...]

What do you all think? Any ideas or opinions are welcome!



I'll come right out and say that I dislike sectionals in any setting that is not a basement rec room and would recommend against one anyway, but in this case, I think you're right about a sectional being too dominating for the space and the protruding chaise part being disruptive to your living room pathways given the size of the space.

I don't think you can go wrong with a typical 3-seater sofa plus a couple compact armchairs. Sofa would go where the sellers have theirs so you can watch TV and the chairs could go wherever to combat the unidirectional seating/pew vibe you get by having the couch only. When you have people over and want to sit down, it's nice to have seating facing towards each other so you can chitchat/do things where the TV is not the center of attention.

In general, in my subjective personal opinion, I vastly prefer standard sofa + armchairs (or dueling sofas/dueling sofas + armchairs, depending on room size) over comparable sectional configurations in living rooms because with your seating more broken up rather than being a continuous mass, you have more places to put end tables and lamp lighting (and more places to put down your drink), and easier access around the room and to seating. Also several pieces of normal-sized furniture is less visually dominating than one giant one. And you can play with different upholstery/colors/finishes with multiple pieces of furniture.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

what size is the sofa and rug in that picture?

I agree that a chair is needed on the side of the rug farther from the window

I would check how much article will charge you to return the sofa if you don't like it. Buying sofas without trying them first is generally not the greatest idea, but see what they say.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:03 on May 6, 2021

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



actionjackson posted:

what size is the sofa and rug in that picture?

I agree that a chair is needed on the side of the rug farther from the window

I'm guessing that is around a 86" 3 seater sofa, I am not sure on the rug either but I'm guessing it's an 12' x 9' area rug. I would probably get a smaller area rug that doesn't go underneath the couch.

Unfortunately the edges of the rug left scuff marks on the flooring so a smaller rug will show them, but it shouldn't be a big deal. Haven't found any product that can hide the scuffing, I'll try to get a photo at some point.

Here's another angle in case it helps. Note, the middle window is a Juliet balcony door, so it complicates things because I want to be able to always open that door. It's also the only openable window-thing in this room. It swings all the way back on itself, which is why they had a small end table there instead of a full sized chair, otherwise the door would hit a chair.

I'd probably move my couch closer to the wall, right of the photo, and not have an end table there.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 18:02 on May 6, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

don't do anything with the rug until you figure out the couch situation. do you want leather or fabric? You can get a really good 86" fabric sofa for under 3k. My sofa in the 92" version with the really nice maharam fabric is 2500 https://www.bludot.com/the-new-standard-92-sofa.html

you want at least six inches of rug on each side, so if you get another 86" rug, the smallest size to get would be 6x9. With a sofa like the one you linked to where there's space between the floor and the seat, you can have it go under the legs 3-6" so you can see both the rug and the floor underneath the sofa seating.

A reading lamp or arc-style lamp would work well on the side of the sofa closer to the balcony door.

also definitely pull the sofa out from the wall, try 3-4" to start

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



actionjackson posted:

don't do anything with the rug until you figure out the couch situation. do you want leather or fabric? You can get a really good 86" fabric sofa for under 3k. My sofa in the 92" version with the really nice maharam fabric is 2500 https://www.bludot.com/the-new-standard-92-sofa.html

you want at least six inches of rug on each side, so if you get another 86" rug, the smallest size to get would be 6x9. With a sofa like the one you linked to where there's space between the floor and the seat, you can have it go under the legs 3-6" so you can see both the rug and the floor underneath the sofa seating.

A reading lamp or arc-style lamp would work well on the side of the sofa closer to the balcony door.

also definitely pull the sofa out from the wall, try 3-4" to start

Great advice thanks! I think 92" is a liiiitttle on the big side vs. 86", the couch in that photo might be 92" for all I know. I feel it might cut into the space available for a small dining table next to the breakfast bar. I will try to decide....

you seem very knowledgable on this stuff, please have a look at the rest of the place if you want and go hog wild: https://rebrand.ly/o8n2uq5

The bathroom setup isn't great or modern, like the countertop color. But I'm not going to go crazy with reno to change the bathroom tile and vanities, I just don't have the funds and don't think it's necessary.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 18:14 on May 6, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Inner Light posted:

Great advice thanks! I think 92" is a liiiitttle on the big side vs. 86", the couch in that photo might be 92" for all I know. I feel it might cut into the space available for a small dining table next to the breakfast bar. I will try to decide....

take some measurements of the room, it will make it much easier, for starters what is the length from the balcony door to those stools, and what is the width wall-to-wall

and what size/shape dining table do you want?

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



actionjackson posted:

take some measurements of the room, it will make it much easier, for starters what is the length from the balcony door to those stools, and what is the width wall-to-wall

and what size/shape dining table do you want?

I have some measurements. Listing says 19x14 'living room'

Length of balcony door to stools: approx 18-19 feet.

Width wall to wall, TV to couch wall, 14 feet.

Dining table, I am thinking like 4ft x 2.5ft, rectangle or oval.

Empty photo:

86" couch will take you to almost the leftmost outlet, more towards the middle of the photo. Looks like enough room for a small dining table. Like I said the fixture seems to indicate that was the intent, I guess.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 18:51 on May 6, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I might do a smaller table if you are going to keep the stools there as it would get cluttered.

Since the room is 14' wide, I'd prob do an 8x10 rug, but it depends on what you are going to put on the rug and their size (coffee table, chairs). It also depends on the size/shape of the dining table. I do think circular or oval might be better because the other big stuff in the room is all rectangular.

here's just a bare bones outline of 14x19, with a bunch of ugly furniture that is sized as follows: 86" sofa, 8x10 rug, 5 foot wide tv stand. That circle at the bottom is a 54" diameter table for scale. I have a similarly sized "living room" but it's two feet narrower, and similar length, and a 6x9 rug works well there. So I think that 8x10 will be best for you.

What furniture for this room do you already have that you 100% want to use?

If for example you have a decent sized coffee table, you could do one armchair at the "bottom center" of the rug, and one angled at the top right corner.

This avoids an issue I need to remedy, which is having too many things go the same direction as the longer wall.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:31 on May 7, 2021

bee
Dec 17, 2008


Do you often sing or whistle just for fun?
Hello thread! Our bathroom is finally almost finished - we're just waiting on the glazier to come and install the sliding shower door but here's some before/after pictures:












And a bonus of the new shower alcove and bench:



We're pretty happy with how everything turned out, even if it took about twice as long as we expected to get done thanks to supplier issues.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



What brand tub is that?

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

bee posted:

Hello thread! Our bathroom is finally almost finished - we're just waiting on the glazier to come and install the sliding shower door but here's some before/after pictures:

Looks really good! Is there another drain in the shower alcove or does all the water drain to the middle of the room?

E. Nm I see it under the bench.

Phil Moscowitz fucked around with this message at 13:46 on May 14, 2021

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

bee posted:

Hello thread! Our bathroom is finally almost finished - we're just waiting on the glazier to come and install the sliding shower door but here's some before/after pictures:












And a bonus of the new shower alcove and bench:



We're pretty happy with how everything turned out, even if it took about twice as long as we expected to get done thanks to supplier issues.

Looks great, like the renders. Is there an air vent / fan hiding somewhere?

bee
Dec 17, 2008


Do you often sing or whistle just for fun?

AFewBricksShy posted:

What brand tub is that?

It's this one: https://decina.com.au/product/alegra-back-to-wall-freestanding-bath/

Yep, there's a channel drain under the bench. Once the glass door is in it'll stop the water going all over the place too :)

There's one of those ixl-tastic 3 in 1 heat fan light combo things in the centre of the ceiling, I guess I just didn't angle my phone enough to get it in the shots.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Wet rooms are fascinating to me as an American. Does the floor get all soapy and grimey? The drain is just that little rectangle cutout thing in the center of the room?

I have never been in a wet room bathroom.

e: or is the drain under the shower bench seat?

e2: whoa I got beaten on all this and didn't read!

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 17:04 on May 14, 2021

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

Inner Light posted:

Does the floor get all soapy and grimey?

Get this: it gets rinsed a lot.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

A lot of commercial bathrooms are wet rooms with room drains, even in America.

bee
Dec 17, 2008


Do you often sing or whistle just for fun?

Inner Light posted:

Wet rooms are fascinating to me as an American. Does the floor get all soapy and grimey? The drain is just that little rectangle cutout thing in the center of the room?

I have never been in a wet room bathroom.

e: or is the drain under the shower bench seat?

e2: whoa I got beaten on all this and didn't read!

Our ensuite is a wet room and it's a pain in the arse. It wouldn't be as bad if the tiling sloped towards the drain instead of away from it but after every shower you gotta squeegee the water back into the shower and at the drain or it just stays in a puddle in the middle of the room forever :argh:

Loucks
May 21, 2007

It's incwedibwe easy to suck my own dick.

bee posted:

Our ensuite is a wet room and it's a pain in the arse. It wouldn't be as bad if the tiling sloped towards the drain instead of away from it but after every shower you gotta squeegee the water back into the shower and at the drain or it just stays in a puddle in the middle of the room forever :argh:

This rules.

Having cleaned a LOT of wet rooms that are properly set up they’re incredibly convenient bc you can just hose them down with soap and then rinse with water and let the filth drain away. Pity your contractor trolled you.

bee
Dec 17, 2008


Do you often sing or whistle just for fun?

Loucks posted:

This rules.

Having cleaned a LOT of wet rooms that are properly set up they’re incredibly convenient bc you can just hose them down with soap and then rinse with water and let the filth drain away. Pity your contractor trolled you.

It wasn't us, it was the people who owned this house before us. My next door neighbour told me that when the previous owner had the bathroom and ensuite renovated, the contractors involved screwed things up on such a grand scale that eventually the owner came to fisticuffs with them in the front yard over it.

We discovered all kinds of exciting things during the renovation! Joists that didn't go all the way down to the floor, water damage where the waterproofing wasn't done correctly, and the shower drainpipe had gotten a bunch of grout dumped into it at some point, so it was clogging and full of hair and slime which explained why the bathroom always smelled bad.

But yeah, I see the appeal of a wet room, especially for a small space like our ensuite. But when it's not executed by someone who knows what they're doing it turns into a nuisance rather than something functional.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

bee posted:

Our ensuite is a wet room and it's a pain in the arse. It wouldn't be as bad if the tiling sloped towards the drain instead of away from it

It should be against the law (code) for a floor to slope away from a floor drain. Time to :guillotine: everyone.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply