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Slavvy posted:That climbing idle sounds like your idle mixture is about half a turn too rich... more Slavvy, when are you making a carbs post that you can copy-paste snippets from, or in its entirety, any time someone asks a carbs question (which are probably 90% of the questions in this thread?). Also, I'd like to point out that I am super happy my fuel injected bike Just Works and needs zero carb fuckery.
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May 6, 2021 13:01
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about carbs.
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Steakandchips posted:Slavvy, when are you making a carbs post that you can copy-paste snippets from, or in its entirety, any time someone asks a carbs question (which are probably 90% of the questions in this thread?). I did, ages ago, there's just no convenient way to archive and present them afaik, computers are dumb and strange. I've got like ten effort posts about various things that just stay in my head cause if I type them out they'll vanish forever after a page or two. You'll be super happy until something breaks and it isn't even possible to diagnose the problem without paying a dealer hundreds for the privilege. This isn't a problem with efi but a problem with implementation - current efi is roughly like if you built a bike with carbs that were sealed for life with special fittings and bespoke welding techniques so they can only be taken apart in the dealer's special carb room.
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May 6, 2021 20:33
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Slavvy posted:I did, ages ago, there's just no convenient way to archive and present them afaik, computers are dumb and strange. I've got like ten effort posts about various things that just stay in my head cause if I type them out they'll vanish forever after a page or two. Is the bieks wiki still alive? You could chuck them there.
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May 6, 2021 20:41
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Slavvy posted:I did, ages ago, there's just no convenient way to archive and present them afaik, computers are dumb and strange. I've got like ten effort posts about various things that just stay in my head cause if I type them out they'll vanish forever after a page or two. You could make a <subject> thread and throw your effortpost in the op. Subforum's slow enough that they probably won't fall off page 1 for months let alone page 2.
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May 6, 2021 22:58
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Lol I was about to make a post about wanting people to actually read them, not just type them out somewhere that gets no eyes. Then I decided to check the front page and sure enough, turns out there's a thread and it is extremely embarrassingly pretty much only my posts. I'll type some stuff out there when as it comes to me or if someone asks something that sets off my brain.
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May 6, 2021 23:25
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How do you feel about pushrod engines slavvy¿
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May 7, 2021 08:41
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They're cool and good.
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May 7, 2021 09:18
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The HD Pan America has a ohc engine with competitive (though not top class) power output and also has hydraulically adjusted valve clearance, why don't we see that more often. Are manual valve clearance checks a way for manufacturers to generate income for the dealers?
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May 7, 2021 09:42
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As far as I remember, hydraulic valve lifters limit top end power because they don't do too well at the top end of a high-RPM rev range. Honda apparently fixed this with the Nighthawk 700S from the mid-eighties, which had hydraulic valve lifters and could rev beyond 10,000 RPM... But then, they went back? edit: valve lifters, not valve adjusters. And clarity. Slide Hammer fucked around with this message at 00:20 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 7, 2021 13:30
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High Protein posted:The HD Pan America has a ohc engine with competitive (though not top class) power output and also has hydraulically adjusted valve clearance, why don't we see that more often. Are manual valve clearance checks a way for manufacturers to generate income for the dealers? Honda loooooves hydraulic lifters. Other manufacturers haven’t been as excited about it
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May 7, 2021 18:57
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Slide Hammer posted:As far as I remember, hydraulic valve adjusters limit top end power because they don't do too well at the top end of a rev range. It's this, plus the extra cost and complexity for what is now an absolutely minute noise benefit, because solid valve lifters have become so refined and metallurgically advanced. It makes sense if you're designing an engine from scratch and know in advance it's going to be an adv/touring type of motor, but it's not worth retrofitting to an existing design. Unless you're Honda, because 'not worth the trouble' is a concept they aren't familiar with.
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May 7, 2021 19:23
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I'm fighting with a leaky front caliper. Between weather and nearly slicing the tip of my finger off two weeks ago, I'm having a bit of trouble getting everything apart. Would it be irresponsible to buy a basic rebuild kit before diving in and dissassembling completely? Or should I wait and see if I need a more complete kit with pistons and things?
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May 8, 2021 00:06
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You have to disassemble a caliper to replace the seals anyway; check the piston(s) while they're out but it's unlikely they need replacement.
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May 8, 2021 03:48
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epswing posted:I read this as "Mailbox" and thought that would look great on a beater. New top case 
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May 9, 2021 01:14
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Dog Case posted:New top case Had to really zoom in before I realized that wasn't genuine Suzuki
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May 9, 2021 01:16
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Fauxzuki
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May 10, 2021 15:04
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Is there anything I should know about working on a throttle body? I've pulled one from a Husky TE510 in order to clean out the fuel injector and thought I'd clean up other parts of it too while I'm in there. There's a big plastic module on the side that looks like it's for some kind of mass airflow sensor (I guess Mikuni calls it a MAQS: Modularised Air Quantity Sensor, just not sure if it differs from a MAF). A lot of things are telling me to be careful when messing with it, such as the security torx bolts it's fastened with and some white alignment marks painted on said bolts:  I'm used to MAFS having their little sensor bit stick in and look like an exposed wire, which need to be handled carefully (don't get finger oil on it, only clean with stuff specifically for MAFS). This one doesn't look like it has an exposed wire, but I just want to know of any precautions I should take: 
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May 12, 2021 03:55
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Dog Case posted:New top case Lol put razzled on it
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May 12, 2021 04:38
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yergacheffe posted:Is there anything I should know about working on a throttle body? I've pulled one from a Husky TE510 in order to clean out the fuel injector and thought I'd clean up other parts of it too while I'm in there. There's a big plastic module on the side that looks like it's for some kind of mass airflow sensor (I guess Mikuni calls it a MAQS: Modularised Air Quantity Sensor, just not sure if it differs from a MAF). It's kind of like a pitot tube with the maf element inside. If you take it out it'll just have an o-ring around it. I'd avoid being super aggressive with it.
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May 12, 2021 05:36
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Sounds good, I'll just unscrew it and put it to the side then. I think the plastic unit is also a tps with a pot-like thing that turns with the butterfly valve in the throttle body, so I'll just have to make sure the valve is positioned the same way when I reinsert the unit.
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May 12, 2021 07:35
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If that's the case it might have eccentric holes for zeroing, so either line everything up perfectly with the markings or do whatever the reset procedure is.
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May 12, 2021 08:06
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Anyone happen to know whether the race-style fairing for the Thruxton RS can be adapted for the earlier 900?
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May 13, 2021 02:58
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Martytoof posted:Anyone happen to know whether the race-style fairing for the Thruxton RS can be adapted for the earlier 900? Seems unlikely as it's a completely redesigned bike. Might be possible to adapt one to the other but at that point (unless you happen to have lucked into a free fairing) you're better off just buying a part designed especially for the bike from Skidmarx or Airtech.
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May 13, 2021 09:02
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My thoughts as well. Just curious. Love the look of the RS with the upper fairing, wondering how feasible it would be to take its older brother and produce something similar.
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May 13, 2021 11:45
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Phone posted:Went out for a short ride today, and after about 40 minutes I was hearing a buzzing that sounded like it was like near the front fender, but turned out to be RPM dependent. Brought it home, and revved it a bit in the driveway (apologies about aspect ratio): Slavvy posted:That is a bad noise. As above I'd look at the cam chain area first. I'd suggest not riding the bike until you fix it. How handy are you? Update on this one! I took the bike to the local independent motorcycle shop for tires and to take a look at the noise back in February. They didn't hear a noise. About a month ago I went for a ride and it started making some very very unfun noises about 5 minutes from home. I took the bike to the local dealership and they've had it in their parking lot for about 4 weeks now. Worst case scenario: I'm out about $2k. Best case scenario: It spun a bearing. Honda will warranty it if it's due to the crankshaft recall. vOv
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May 14, 2021 23:21
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Is there a good lubricant primer/roundup you guys like? I generally do some research and use what I'm told for the application, but I don't really know the difference between wd-40, gear oil, penetrating oil, brake cleaner, and plain old so-called "grease". I'm looking for a high-level overview that would give me a sense of what types of places each of these are used, and why.
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May 26, 2021 03:29
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This is not quite as general as you asked for, but F9 has a pretty good analysis of the different chain lube types out there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnPYdcbcAe0
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May 26, 2021 03:37
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epswing posted:Is there a good lubricant primer/roundup you guys like? I generally do some research and use what I'm told for the application, but I don't really know the difference between wd-40, gear oil, penetrating oil, brake cleaner, and plain old so-called "grease". I'm looking for a high-level overview that would give me a sense of what types of places each of these are used, and why. Any factory repair manual for any bike, unless you mean where they're used literally everywhere in which case you need a textbook on lubricants I guess? I know enough to know what goes where and why and roughly what it's made of but never had any formal education, am not an engineer. I've spoken to engineers who work with this stuff but they all seemed distant from the application end and were mostly interested in chemical chains and other stuff over my head. So what I'm saying is, is there a good lubricant primer/roundup you guys like?
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May 26, 2021 03:50
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epswing posted:Is there a good lubricant primer/roundup you guys like? I generally do some research and use what I'm told for the application, but I don't really know the difference between wd-40, gear oil, penetrating oil, brake cleaner, and plain old so-called "grease". I'm looking for a high-level overview that would give me a sense of what types of places each of these are used, and why. WD-40 is good for cleaning things like the front sprocket cover when it's absolutely packed full of chain lube and dirt. Leaves a bit of a "protective" residue, that also collects fresh dirt. You can try to use it as a penetrating oil, but it's probably a waste of time. Penetrating oil is what you use when you're dealing with a really corroded and stuck fastener. Doesn't work as good as having the right tools and know-how, but it probably has helped someone at some point. Brake cleaner is good for cleaning things without leaving any residue, hence the reason it's good for brakes. Keep everything else away from your brakes. Grease is used for high-pressure and/or low-speed friction areas. Suspension pivot points, head bearing, wheel bearings. Anywhere that you need the lubricant to stay mostly in place, because it won't just run away like oil would. Gear oil is for cars, and I guess Harley transmissions?
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May 26, 2021 03:58
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40oz of fury posted:WD-40 is good for cleaning things like the front sprocket cover when it's absolutely packed full of chain lube and dirt. Leaves a bit of a "protective" residue, that also collects fresh dirt. You can try to use it as a penetrating oil, but it's probably a waste of time. Some dirt bikes have separate oil for the gearbox too although I think they’ve all moved away from that now.
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May 26, 2021 04:04
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I don't yet know what the differences in greases implies (ie lithium, molybdenum, goose, white grease, axle grease, etc) so I pretty much use what the manual tells me to use (if the manual actually tells you to use goose grease congratulations on your Watt engine, I guess) Phy fucked around with this message at 04:19 on May 26, 2021 |
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May 26, 2021 04:16
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40oz of fury posted:WD-40 is good for cleaning things like the front sprocket cover when it's absolutely packed full of chain lube and dirt. Leaves a bit of a "protective" residue, that also collects fresh dirt work as good as having the right tools and know-how, but it probably has helped someone at some point. I've had penetrating oil save my butt more times than I can count, usually going behind another tech that over tightened a fastener, or a 20 year old corroded pipe union, not usually related to a vehicle. The best way to ensure you don't need to use PB blaster or similar products is to put some anti-seize on whatever you are working on. You don't have to go crazy and leave a copper ring around the heads, a little goes a long way.
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May 26, 2021 04:35
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Is all penetrating oil about the same or is there a particular brand or composition or something to look for? I have an old rusty quad I use to move tools and firewood and stuff around at like 10km/h and I'd like to take the rusty tow ball off so I can attach a cheap mower trailer, but it's so completely stuck that getting two big dudes on a wrench and cheater bar was just visibly bending the frame instead of moving the nut.
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May 26, 2021 06:23
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Is all penetrating oil about the same or is there a particular brand or composition or something to look for? I have an old rusty quad I use to move tools and firewood and stuff around at like 10km/h and I'd like to take the rusty tow ball off so I can attach a cheap mower trailer, but it's so completely stuck that getting two big dudes on a wrench and cheater bar was just visibly bending the frame instead of moving the nut. One brand vs another isn't going to be a huge difference. The next level up is adding heat with a torch or a heat gun.
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May 26, 2021 06:49
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Ola posted:One brand vs another isn't going to be a huge difference. The next level up is adding heat with a torch or a heat gun. Probably don't do this immediately after adding oil though 
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May 26, 2021 07:50
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When doing remember that heating + cooling repeatedly can loosen gigantic nuts of death that are otherwise beyond reach of even the rattlegun.40oz of fury posted:WD-40 is good for cleaning things like the front sprocket cover when it's absolutely packed full of chain lube and dirt. Leaves a bit of a "protective" residue, that also collects fresh dirt. You can try to use it as a penetrating oil, but it's probably a waste of time. A good post, I'll expound on the bolded bit and say a '"proper*"' Harley has thick goopy 20w50 or similar in the motor, gear oil in the box, and in the primary drive any one of half a dozen different fluids up to and including gm type IV transmission fluid depending on your preferred clutch feel  Shaft drive bikes usually have to have hypoid rated gear oil in the final drive, as I understand it the curving gear tooth surface shears through normal oils so special additives are chucked in to maintain the oil film that stops parts from actually touching. 2t bikes have by definition separate transmissions, sometimes with a dry clutch, that usually run thinner types of gear oils or even just 10w40 engine oil on really old stuff. *:an air cooled big twin variant with a separate primary and gearbox Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:21 on May 26, 2021 |
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May 26, 2021 08:18
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Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Is all penetrating oil about the same or is there a particular brand or composition or something to look for? I have an old rusty quad I use to move tools and firewood and stuff around at like 10km/h and I'd like to take the rusty tow ball off so I can attach a cheap mower trailer, but it's so completely stuck that getting two big dudes on a wrench and cheater bar was just visibly bending the frame instead of moving the nut. Youtube to the rescue! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st8dkGzJWtg
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May 26, 2021 11:31
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If you want a nice smelling penetrating oil that works well, check out Aerokroil https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F09CEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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May 26, 2021 17:38
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APl0edZ8gI8 This is the only advice on lubricants I'll ever need.
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May 26, 2021 18:52
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goddamnedtwisto posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APl0edZ8gI8 greatest animated show of all time
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May 26, 2021 23:19
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