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I just haven't ever done a timing belt and the idea of doing it on an interference engine is intimidating. I am not a great mechanic, let's put it that way.
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May 4, 2021 17:33
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STR posted:it was a Gates kit, so no telling when the tensioner would fail I kept the stock tensioner and put that gates pulley on it (which looked like good NTK Japan-stamped bearings). The gates tensioner itself was just really sketchy looking. As was the water pump.
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May 4, 2021 17:35
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Timing belt is pretty easy on the SOHC engines. AFAIK the procedure in the manual has you put the engine in an orientation where you can not drive a valve into a piston no matter what you do with the cam. Take the radiator out as well...I don’t think the manual mentions that. It’s very simple, gives you a lot more room, and you’ll be draining the coolant anyway. Also, isn’t the EJ22 a non-interference engine? And this might be a crazy thought, but if the engine is suspect anyway, a timing belt is really just preventative maintenance. They will last a lot longer than the specified interval unless abused. Doing a timing belt at the specified interval on an engine that has high oil use or other signs of excessive wear sounds like rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic. You could inspect it for cracks and make a decision that way if it’s a big challenge to change it.
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May 4, 2021 18:23
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You can also look at Aisin kits. The one I used a few years ago was good.
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May 4, 2021 18:46
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Question, then. As I understand it there's timing marks on the camshafts and crankshaft, anywhere else? What do you do if you accidentally bump one of the gears out of alignment? Are they tight enough that you should be able to tell which way it got turned? The last time I got the belt done on this was... probably longer ago than I should have, so I'm going to borescope the belt and see what it looks like without taking off the timing cover. I am using more oil than I should, but I'm unsure how much of that is leaking seals, I know I have leaky valve cover gaskets and I wouldn't be surprised if I was also leaking from the front main seal and the oil pan gasket. The engine is 220k miles so I wouldn't be surprised if the rings were wearing but I also wouldn't be surprised if they weren't because the EJ22 is a ridiculously durable engine. I found out I was running through more oil than I should by my idiot light coming on, I managed to pull into a parking lot about 10 seconds later and dump a bunch of oil in it but when I took it to the shop to have them change the oil there were no sparkly bits and it has gone another 13k miles without incident. I take it to the shop for oil changes because Jiffy Lube dented my oil pan ages ago and it takes more torque than I can get on it without a lift to stop it leaking. If I re-do the oil pan gasket I'm going to put a new pan on while I'm down there.
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May 4, 2021 19:55
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At least on the EJ253, there are marks on the crank sprocket, cam sprockets, and timing belt. You crank the engine with a socket on the crank bolt until everything is aligned. The marks on the original belt will probably be worn off. Line up the marks on the new belt. You can count teeth if there are no marks to double check.
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May 4, 2021 20:40
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It was always my fear that I would one day get a timing belt without the timing marks.
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May 4, 2021 23:12
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Okay, completely unrelated problem to the timing belt, my SVX is throwing an EGR code and from what I've seen with others it's almost certainly insufficient flow, although it might not be. Is it safe to drive like that to shake down the rest of the car until I can get that whole system cleaned out? It apparently tends to get gunked up a loooonng way down so I need to figure out my angle of attack unless there's such a thing as an absolutely massive pipe cleaner. If not, that's fine, I'm just antsy to actually drive this thing with a functioning throttle position sensor and good struts for the first time after two months of owning it.
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May 5, 2021 01:54
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Can you put an air chuck up to it and see if it's clogged? I'd unscrew the intake side and blow air into the EGR pipe. Blow that schmutz back into the header. If that doesn't work I'd order a jug of carbon deposit remover like Piston Kleen and also unscrew the header side and plug it and pour it into the EGR pipe until it's full and let it soak. You may need to clean the bunghole in either end as well. Edit: How about a drain snake with small diameter head? I have no idea what diameter your EGR pipe is but it's definitely smaller than what snakes were designed for, you'd have to go for the smallest head you could find. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 02:37 on May 5, 2021 |
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May 5, 2021 02:09
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay, completely unrelated problem to the timing belt, my SVX is throwing an EGR code and from what I've seen with others it's almost certainly insufficient flow, although it might not be. Is it safe to drive like that to shake down the rest of the car until I can get that whole system cleaned out? It apparently tends to get gunked up a loooonng way down so I need to figure out my angle of attack unless there's such a thing as an absolutely massive pipe cleaner. If not, that's fine, I'm just antsy to actually drive this thing with a functioning throttle position sensor and good struts for the first time after two months of owning it. Trouble code 56, so not the sensor right?
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May 5, 2021 02:17
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Trouble code 56, yeah. Not sure what all that can cover, OBD1 is not very helpful. I do have an air compressor, I could try sticking a small piece (maybe a tire inflating tip) into the hose and just blowing that thing out as thoroughly as possible. I hadn't thought of that. I'm not sure how wide the hose is, I haven't gotten to the point of checking it out because the throttle position sensor seemed essential to making sure the engine wasn't knocking and the struts are essential to making the 60mph drive to town safe, removing the damper from a spring mass damper equation makes the front end a little squirrely. I got one off over the weekend before the snow hit and had to work my way through about 2mm of caked on dirt/strut oil mixture.
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May 5, 2021 03:09
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This outback 3.6 i’m looking at looks about perfect for the price, but the head unit has visible touch sensor lines, which is apparently a common issue. Anyone here find an easy solution to that? How does an anti glare screen protector affect it?
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May 5, 2021 03:31
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Trouble code 56, yeah. Not sure what all that can cover, OBD1 is not very helpful. Maybe a split in the pipe could be the unusually low EGR flow rather than a physical blockage?
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May 5, 2021 12:12
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Has anyone ever fixed a P0021 code without 1 gallon of gasoline on top of the car?
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May 6, 2021 20:45
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Well after owning used Camry’s my whole life I’m now the owner of a 2021 Forester Limited with some stupid crazy accessory package. I keep telling myself it’s for the kids. But really, anything extra I should grab for this thing? Already got the all weather floor mats, but I need to pick up some crossbars if there are many brands aside from the stock Subaru ones I should go after.
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May 8, 2021 16:57
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New cars always make me think of a few things: paint correction, ceramic coat, tints, floor mats, sound system. Not so much sound systems anymore since they're all integrated into infotainment, but the rest of that list should cost enough to satisfy and spending urges and directly help the longevity and resale value of the car. You also get the best bang for buck the closer you do these things to the purchase date.
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May 8, 2021 17:10
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Husky or Weather Tech laser sized floor mats are the answer for sure. Especially since you have kids.
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May 8, 2021 17:18
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Subaru also sell their own all weather mats that you might be able to squeeze out of the dealer if it's a new car. When I got mine it was included in the sale.
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May 8, 2021 19:42
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WeatherTech windshield screen. It actually fits well.
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May 8, 2021 22:26
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net work error posted:Subaru also sell their own all weather mats that you might be able to squeeze out of the dealer if it's a new car. Yeah. I have those in my Outback. They suck compared to a Husky or Weather Tech set.
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May 9, 2021 15:18
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Is it bad for an EJ22 to be revving around 4-5k RPM for an extended period? I live in the CO high country and there are stretches of highway (even I-70) where I can't maintain 70 in 5th gear, so I have to drop it to 4th. I kind of worry what revving that high for an extended period of time is going to do to the 22-year-old engine but maybe I just drive like a granny most of the time, I tended to shift around 3k when driving around town at lower elevations.
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May 9, 2021 21:38
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I say do everything to give your car the best chance it has. Make sure the radiator is clean, fans are clean, make sure you run as much water in the coolant as you can. Change oil more regularly than recommended and I think you should be okay. You aren't tracking the car so I'm not recommending you add coolers or upgrading radiators.
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May 9, 2021 22:02
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I'm not seeing any issues on the temperature gauge, just worried about putting extra strain on the engine. I guess as far as oil goes I could go up to 5w-40 or something from the normally recommended 5w-30, it says to use 10w-50, 20w-40, or 20w-50 for high temperature or heavy duty use but I'm up where it rarely gets over 70 degrees and frequently gets below zero in the winter at night so it seems like going up to 10 or 20 cold weight would be ill-advised. Not sure if by heavy duty use they mean high RPMs or "Why are you towing a trailer with your hatchback anyway?"
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May 10, 2021 00:32
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So update on the new forester, started getting this warning in my app. All of that stuff seems to be working afaik so I’m not sure what’s up. I’m gonna schedule service to get it looked at but has anyone seen this before? Literally just showed up the second day I owned it.
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May 10, 2021 02:25
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:So update on the new forester, started getting this warning in my app. Maybe try re-pairing your phone to the car.
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May 10, 2021 03:09
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Midjack posted:Maybe try re-pairing your phone to the car. That's never a bad idea, but I don't think that the Starlink emergency services have anything to do with the phone that's paired to it. None of those links give more information?
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May 10, 2021 07:44
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Maybe this is better suited for the car buying thread in Ask/Tell. I'm in the market for a new car to replace my 02 WRX wagon, and am interested in the Crosstrek. A dealer near me has a few 2018 and 2019 CPO Crosstrek Premiums with lease mileages (~30,000) on their website for $21-22,000 before fees and taxes, and new ones for $26-$27,000 also before fees and taxes. Does is make sense to be looking at used cars in this market? Subaru has also been doing the 0% APR in 2021 models, which makes me think going for new is the better decision when it come to warranty and PO lease fuckery. When it does come to warranty, why does the CPO program offer a 7 year/100k mile vs. the new 5 year/60k mile. I know you miss out on the 3 year/36k mile warranty. I'd also like to sell the 02 WRX, but can't find too many comps for pricing. It has 160k miles and is showing its age cosmetically and getting some rear wheel well rust, but drives fine. KBB value is in the $4-5,000 range. NASIOC has a few 02s, but mostly 04s and 05s listed around $6-8,500. Noting on Craigslist in my area (NYC and suburbs). Any thoughts here?
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May 10, 2021 19:31
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Majere posted:Has anyone ever fixed a P0021 code without 1 gallon of gasoline on top of the car? You need matches? Cant say it ever got fixed but changing the oil more frequently prolonged the code from showing up. Other than that I've never been able to make it fully fo away. Short of maybe attempting to rewire the entire front end and replace the solenoids. Which who wants to do that. But my car has some freaky weird electrical issues when it rains as it is.
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May 11, 2021 00:16
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PolishPandaBear posted:Maybe this is better suited for the car buying thread in Ask/Tell. I'd def go new if you can swing it. WRX's seem to be Covid taxed so....... You might get more than redbook ATM?
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May 11, 2021 01:50
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There are A LOT of young men willing to pay too much for a wrx with 150k+ miles on it. I see them listed for well above kbb in the north east all the time. When I was looking for a car a few years ago, I could either get a wrx with 130k+ miles (and hard miles at that) or a civic si with 28k on the odometer for 13 large. Have you checked craigslist to compare?
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May 11, 2021 17:06
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The Subaru trading group I'm in on Facebook regularly has high mile bugeyes for $10k+. They really do go for stupid money, especially if they're stock.
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May 11, 2021 22:23
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If I still had my bugeye, it would probably be a pile of red dust by now.
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May 11, 2021 22:38
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poo poo. Can I get a link to said group? It's mostly stock. The previous owner installed an aluminum radiator, Perrin fuel rails, cat less up pipe, a new down pipe, and a cat back. Its running a Stage 2 map on the hilarious v1 Accessport. I haven't done anything except maintenance since buying it in 2009. Would it be worth it to fix the wheel well rust and repaint the waist spoiler before listing it?
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May 12, 2021 03:57
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PolishPandaBear posted:poo poo. Can I get a link to said group? It's mostly stock. The previous owner installed an aluminum radiator, Perrin fuel rails, cat less up pipe, a new down pipe, and a cat back. Its running a Stage 2 map on the hilarious v1 Accessport. I haven't done anything except maintenance since buying it in 2009. I would imagine, since most are rusted in the northeast, having no rust on it would increase the value more than the cost of the rust repair. A rust free car will usually bring at least a thousand more than a rusted car unless it’s very, very minor.
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May 12, 2021 13:23
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PolishPandaBear posted:poo poo. Can I get a link to said group? It's mostly stock. The previous owner installed an aluminum radiator, Perrin fuel rails, cat less up pipe, a new down pipe, and a cat back. Its running a Stage 2 map on the hilarious v1 Accessport. I haven't done anything except maintenance since buying it in 2009. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1504279213153801 is one of them. The other is https://www.facebook.com/groups/1731110593695971
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May 12, 2021 21:00
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm not seeing any issues on the temperature gauge, just worried about putting extra strain on the engine. I guess as far as oil goes I could go up to 5w-40 or something from the normally recommended 5w-30, it says to use 10w-50, 20w-40, or 20w-50 for high temperature or heavy duty use but I'm up where it rarely gets over 70 degrees and frequently gets below zero in the winter at night so it seems like going up to 10 or 20 cold weight would be ill-advised. Not sure if by heavy duty use they mean high RPMs or "Why are you towing a trailer with your hatchback anyway?" you might try seasonally changing the weight of the oil. and the lowest temps don't matter as much as the lowest temp the engine is started in. The nighttime low matters less if you work from noon to 8pm, for example. Honestly, I would suggest trying slowing down when climbing those grades, not as much for the car's sake as for the sake of your peace of mind. if you merge right and go 55 (or whatever speed the trucks are going) you may find that you're more at ease about the whole thing. or you might find that it stresses you out even more, who knows, we're all different
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May 12, 2021 23:51
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I just purchased a 2019 Crosstrek, 2.0, 6-speed. I've only had it a couple weeks, but when I drive it I notice a "hot" smell. Can't be 100% what it is...I don't' think it's the oil. I checked it and it's at a fine level (after my commute yesterday (~60 miles) it was just barely above the max fill line, and still a nice tan-ish color, not dark or black.) But I looked at the coolant/radiator reservoir tank and it was bone dry. I would think with the engine decently hot, it would be filled up at least a little, but nada. My temp light wasn't going on or anything, but between that and this weird "engine mildly overheating" smell, I feel like that should be topped off, no? So I looked things up, and I guess Subaru wants me to get super-specific Subaru only coolant? I imagine all OEMs say that, but I've never had a car this new, and haven't had a Subaru since 2006 (which was a '98 model) so I want to be drat sure I do things right. I assume that regardless if a generic coolant will work overall, I probably need the Subaru Super Coolant now because that's what's in the engine originally, and only being 2 years old and 30k miles, it is unlikely it's been flushed or replaced at all, right?
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May 13, 2021 14:03
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It might have been changed, but the service interval is usually longer than 30k miles, more like 60k miles iirc. Can you get it in to the dealer you bought it from to have it checked? In a pinch, you can just add water (deionized/distilled) to the overflow, but you'll want to do a full change before winter hits again. Do NOT open the radiator hot, like within an hour of running at operating temp, if you value your skin. If the overflow tank is pressurized (has a radiator or pressure cap on it), same thing, just wait for it to cool down. Check your radiator hoses, overflow tank hose, and at the back of the engine bay, you'll find the heater core hoses running to the interior. Coolant typically has a sweet smell, maybe a little peppery. If you can get it into the shop to let them deal with it, do that, especially on the dealers dime.
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May 13, 2021 14:23
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:
Ehhh...dealer is about 2 hours away from me. It was a drive to get there, but they had better reviews that other, closer, Subaru dealers and had a better selection of years I was l interested in. They did let me know that any warranty repairs (and recalls,) I can get done at any authorized Subaru dealership, but I'm not sure just a "I smell something odd" checkup would get covered unless I brought it back to them, which isn't high on my list since it's so far away. As far as I can tell it's not a pressurized overflow tank, just had a regular pop off cap like what's on the windshield fluid reservoir.
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May 13, 2021 15:35
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You can always call and ask the closest dealership service department. If it's something common, they'll likely know offhand. You can probably just drop by and ask them to top off your coolant since it's under warranty, and have them poke/prod the hoses while they're at it, maybe take a glance around the heater core. Check the radiator itself when the engine is cold. If that's low, top it off with water and take it in, because it's likely leaking somewhere if that's low. CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 16:18 on May 13, 2021 |
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May 13, 2021 16:16
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