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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:surely that's the type of thing that's readily available at a junkyard It's a part that commonly fails, so they get snatched at junkyards pretty quickly. Plus, I am in a junkyard desert. 
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May 12, 2021 14:05
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:It's a part that commonly fails, so they get snatched at junkyards pretty quickly. Plus, I am in a junkyard desert. yeah in hindsight that makes sense and I should have thought through it! surprised there's no AM part. otherwise you can glue it but it might crack eventually instead of flexing and that would be bad, although nothing worse ought to happen than you needing to replace it at that point.
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May 12, 2021 14:44
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I'd take it apart further to get a better idea of what's broken, but if replacements cost that much I'd be eyeballing some JBweld.
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May 12, 2021 14:52
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They sell transparent red tape at autozone.
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May 12, 2021 16:49
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Probably a snapped tab that goes into what looks like the socket you can just about make out. Double sided glue pad or JB weld / plastic weld and call it a day?
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May 12, 2021 17:14
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4 hours later: Can I just pretend that it's like this for a while? Because I think i'm going to pretend that it's like this for a while.
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May 12, 2021 18:12
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meatpimp posted:4 hours later: Put some quick setting jb weld on it when it starts to get warm. It will flex itself in to place and hopefully stay there once it cools down.
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May 12, 2021 18:55
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tater_salad posted:That's goign to be a state specific thing. if you renew your license with a realID one in my state it resets your renewal Krakkles posted:This is correct, and in CA, your RealID is your driver's license - when you get it, it will extend the expiration. Thanks all!  Mr. Wiggles posted:Real ID deadline got extended a year fyi. Yeah I heard that, I'm not worried about the RealID part since I have a valid passport/card but I do need to renew the license side. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 19:04 on May 12, 2021 |
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May 12, 2021 18:59
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edit: all set
Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 19:34 on May 15, 2021 |
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May 13, 2021 02:46
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Quick question, my yaris has loads of these plastic buttons or fasteners, how do I get them off in a non destructive manner. I can't seem to work out how they're supposed to work, because they are likely so old they're stuck so I can't tell if I am supposed to push something in or pull something out, or if I just gotta destroy them to remove them.
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May 13, 2021 06:25
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I'm not a hundred percent sure, because of all the road grime, but I think they're the same ones as the bottom left in this image.  Which means you use a tiny screwdriver to lift up the middle part, which means that the wings on the lower part can press inwards, meaning it will pop straight out.
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May 13, 2021 07:15
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And if you want them to come out in one piece - maybe - you need that tool in the upper right.
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May 13, 2021 07:20
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I've had incredibly poor results with trying to get any form of multi-part plastic clip out in one piece. Age and heat cycles make them brittle, and dust jams them up. Just plan on having replacements on hand.
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May 13, 2021 07:23
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Buy replacements before you start. You will break ar least 1/3 of them.
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May 13, 2021 07:31
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Glad I'm not the only one that has that problem.
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May 13, 2021 07:31
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My Fit uses similar ones. No problem to pull them out with a screwdriver but some are indeed too brittle and break regardless.
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May 13, 2021 07:35
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The worst ones are the ones you have to screw out a bit to be able to pop them out. The plastic always gets rounded and sucks to get out. A heated philips head screw driver is my go to method then, but man do I hate dealing with poo poo like that.
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May 13, 2021 08:12
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Some silicone spray helps a bit but they're a PITA
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May 13, 2021 08:23
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Rhyno posted:Buy replacements before you start. You will break ar least 1/3 of them. I got maybe 2/3rds out using a knife and small crowbar. I can get by until I get new ones. Spent the morning cutting and grinding and shaping new sheet metal. Just started welding. Also I had two types, one had a center portion you could retract (in theory) and that made it easier to pull out and reuse.
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May 13, 2021 09:15
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Memento posted:I'm not a hundred percent sure, because of all the road grime, but I think they're the same ones as the bottom left in this image. Got a link for that kit? I've just been ordering specific sizes as I need them; that's the most complete one I've seen. I could particularly use all those trim pullers. Between the Matrix, Brokeback, friend's Cruze, and two different Tacomas I'm helping keep on the road, I really need a good supply of these fuckers (and maybe start charging more than  +actual parts cost from Rockauto for a brake job/"hey while I'm in here this poo poo is loose"...). The Cruze in particular seems to hate keeping them, both front fender liners are ziptied right now. It has 3 broken clips on the driver's door card from replacing the window regulator too. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:38 on May 13, 2021 |
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May 13, 2021 09:27
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STR posted:Got a link for that kit? I've just been ordering specific sizes as I need them; that's the most complete one I've seen. I could particularly use all those trim pullers. Haha yeah going over to someone's house to do a quick pad slap and getting "hey would you mind taking a look at why it's running so poo poo?" is always a fun time. The kit I grabbed that picture from is this one: https://www.amazon.com.au/Retainer-Plastic-Fasteners-Tailgate-Fastener/dp/B07GRJ8QSY
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May 13, 2021 09:41
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STR posted:Got a link for that kit? I've just been ordering specific sizes as I need them; that's the most complete one I've seen. I could particularly use all those trim pullers. I got this kit last year and it's been a life saver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z83X5CD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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May 13, 2021 18:35
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The seller of a 07 civic says the car shakes when it tries to go 80 for the first time in a drive. How much do you suppose it'd cost to fix a transmission problem like that?
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May 13, 2021 19:05
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Too little information to even know that it's a transmission problem.
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May 13, 2021 19:08
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More than you're going to want to spend. Don't buy a car with a major problem.
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May 13, 2021 19:27
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Car shaking at speed sounds more like a wheel or brake thing to me -- there's nothing in the transmission that should suddenly change at 80 miles an hour -- but in either case if you aren't prepared to diagnose and fix it yourself, don't buy the car. It is never a good deal to buy a broken car and then pay a mechanic to repair it for you. Spend more up front to get one in perfect shape and you'll save money in the long term.
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May 13, 2021 19:53
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I was wondering about an unbalanced wheel, but it would continue to be a bumpy ride, and not settle down, AFAIK.
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May 13, 2021 21:38
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Charles posted:I was wondering about an unbalanced wheel, but it would continue to be a bumpy ride, and not settle down, AFAIK. It depends. Rotating assembly balance/out-of-round issues can create sympathetic vibrations at certain speeds only.
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May 14, 2021 02:35
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Spent time on my car for nothing it feels like.  Both sides. Now I gotta weigh fixing vs scrapping. Can't fix this myself without a proper lift, which I don't got. Gonna take it to my local mechanic today and show him, he's honest and will tell me if it can be fixed and what it ought to be. My poor old car, only 382,000km on the meter. It looked fine all the years before until this inspection when the inspector put a hammer through it, rust was spreaing beneath the surface like a cancer.
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May 14, 2021 06:54
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Spoke to my mechanic over the phone and described the problem to him and he's pretty sure he can fix this without it being too expensive. He's worked on my car for years now (same mechanic since the 90s), and thinks I should definitely keep the car and that it has more life in it yet. So that's his opinion but on tuesday I am going there in person for an inspection. Hope I can keep it running, really like this old beater of a car.
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May 14, 2021 11:40
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I personally would not fix that, and I've fixed rustier cars before. Find a less rusty one. Fly and drive to get it if you have to. I guarantee you there are half a dozen (at least) other places the cancer is lurking and they're just as bad. At a certain point it is not worth it and you're probably going to find that point when it starts perforating in other places right after you pay the bill for attempting to fix those places, which is going to be hell because the rust definitely goes further than you think it does and is eating into spotweld seams you can't easily get it out of, which will only be found when trying to dig it out to fix the first problem or possibly when trying to weld to things that looked solid only to have it blow through because it's paper thin swiss cheese there too.
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May 14, 2021 15:19
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I dunno, from my perspective it'd be around 500-800 euros to fix, quick price look at other yarises from the same period... 2000-4900 euros, and those cars are as old so who knows what you are buying with those. I certainly can't diagnose rust in those any better than I did with this one where we went round and hammered on things. If I can get a few more years out of it, or just one year, I'd consider it worth it to not deal with the hassle of looking for a good used car on a budget of 2000 maybe. Then I can at least save up for a year for a newer car.
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May 14, 2021 15:57
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His Divine Shadow posted:I dunno, from my perspective it'd be around 500-800 euros to fix, quick price look at other yarises from the same period... 2000-4900 euros, and those cars are as old so who knows what you are buying with those. I certainly can't diagnose rust in those any better than I did with this one where we went round and hammered on things. If I can get a few more years out of it, or just one year, I'd consider it worth it to not deal with the hassle of looking for a good used car on a budget of 2000 maybe. Then I can at least save up for a year for a newer car. It's an understandable position, but I too think that rust is beyond what's worth repairing. It's getting pretty close to where that bushing mounts and a brace of some sort. So it's an area that's going to see lots of forces. In addition, I don't think a patch alone would do much good. An optimal repair would mean welding in a lot of new metal. You've gotten a lot of life out of the car, I understand, but I think it's time to move on. Admittedly, your budget is going to limit your options considerably, but I'm not sure I'd advise spending 25-50% of that on what probably isn't a sufficient repair for the car.
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May 14, 2021 16:53
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Let it go, unless you expect maybe 3-6 months out of the repair and just need to limp it along until then. That's some pretty significant structure missing there - that's normally very thick steel. And there's a LOT more rust hiding. If you do fix it, I wouldn't take it on any road trips, definitely not above city center speeds, don't try to swerve, don't take any hard turns, etc. You'll have to drive it like you're hauling a truck full of eggs.
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May 14, 2021 19:17
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Speaking of rust... My West Coast eyes don't have a good sense of the Sockington scale. Not a great pic but looks like rust on the welds of the rear subframe. I wasn't able to get a good pic but I know all the suspension adjustment points are pretty rusty and partially seized, and the alignment shop had a pretty tough time. Lots of surface rust on various nuts and bolts but I don't see anything else. So -- should I be worried about the subframe though? Car is a 1994 Mercedes C220 if it matters. I'm getting rid of it, just want to know if it's good to pass on to someone else or just get rid of it. The rest of the car is a gem and obviously not holy like above :P
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May 15, 2021 05:26
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Charles posted:My West Coast eyes What rust?
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May 15, 2021 05:27
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Please stop taunting us East Coast people with that car. That's how cars here look after a few months.
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May 15, 2021 05:39
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Motronic posted:What rust? OK that makes me happy. The original owner definitely cared for the car, but it was in the midwest for a while.
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May 15, 2021 05:47
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Charles posted:OK that makes me happy. The original owner definitely cared for the car, but it was in the midwest for a while. I get the coast to coast difference but just lol......that's factory fresh 2 weeks off the lot on rust. The rubber is looking much worse to me but not super concerning yet.
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May 15, 2021 05:53
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poo poo man, Datsuns came off the boat with worse rust than that
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May 15, 2021 06:30
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