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Motronic posted:I get the coast to coast difference but just lol......that's factory fresh 2 weeks off the lot on rust. The rubber is looking much worse to me but not super concerning yet. It's only cause it's right on the welds that I bring it up, wasn't sure if that's more of a problem. From scooting under the car real quick I don't see any other signs of cancer that bother me. Nothing on the body at all. Yeah rubber is no surprise for the age and of course the shocks are pretty spent. It's been amazingly reliable for an old German car (nothing major but the a/c) but has been sitting unused so it's time to move on.
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May 15, 2021 07:17
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I grew up in the desert, and I've spent my entire life in Texas - cars here don't rust unless you're in the panhandle (where they get actual snow). It's a 27-28 year old car depending on build date. I'm gonna go with:Motronic posted:What rust?
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May 15, 2021 14:34
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I think my third gear synchro is chipped (it usually grinds going into third, less often when shifting up but always when downshifting). Will double clutching into third prevent wear for the rest of my transmission?
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May 15, 2021 16:46
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kastein posted:poo poo man, Datsuns came off the boat with worse rust than that I seem to recall stories of Chevy Vegas rusting in the showrooms.
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May 15, 2021 17:34
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DildenAnders posted:I think my third gear synchro is chipped (it usually grinds going into third, less often when shifting up but always when downshifting). Will double clutching into third prevent wear for the rest of my transmission? Change your transmission fluid first. Also, what kind of car? I know 90s Hondas in particular benefited very well from GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh once they started grinding. I went from not having a working 2nd gear at all (and a barely working 3rd gear - 2nd would pop out if I did manage to get it in, 3rd would grind badly) to only grinding if I tried to go into 2nd above ~6000 rpm on a $200 beater Civic. Never popped out again, 3rd didn't grind anymore. Always remove the fill plug first too - it sucks draining it only to realize you can't refill it.
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May 15, 2021 18:02
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06 Mazda 3. I don't have enough jack stands to keep the car level, will that gently caress me over when I try to change the fluid?
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May 15, 2021 18:05
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:I seem to recall stories of Chevy Vegas rusting in the showrooms. I knew a guy in high school (late 70s) whose Vega snapped in half going over a rough railroad crossing.
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May 15, 2021 18:07
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DildenAnders posted:06 Mazda 3. I don't have enough jack stands to keep the car level, will that gently caress me over when I try to change the fluid? What fluid are you changing?
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May 15, 2021 18:41
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Manual tranny fluid. Would putting it up on ramps work? Or will it not fully drain then?
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May 15, 2021 18:44
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My 2006 was always super sensitive to fluid changes being missed (30k mile interval) and would get super notchy and hard to change. Don't remember that it ground at all, but it's worth trying. It's odd that it was so clunky compared to my wonderful Protege, even though it was a newer version of the same transmission. I had a shop do it though, so not sure. Edit: used Redline MT-90, don't think it was that great, though don't have a good comparison.
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May 15, 2021 18:48
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DildenAnders posted:06 Mazda 3. I don't have enough jack stands to keep the car level, will that gently caress me over when I try to change the fluid? No. Lift it enough to get yourself SAFELY under the car and able to reach both the drain and fill plugs. That might only take one jack stand, it might take two - it depends on your mom/dad bod and where the plugs are located. You can use ramps if you have them. There's generally a magnet built into the drain plug, it should capture all the nasty poo poo. Draining it while on stands may miss 1/4 to 1/2 a quart of fluid. Not a big deal so long as the transmission isn't the the process of self-destruction. If it is, there's nothing you can do to save it anyway. If you're super paranoid, run half a quart of new fluid through it while the drain plug is out.
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May 15, 2021 18:55
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I am in the market for a new car. I was settled on a 2021 Mazda 6 Carbon but then I saw the Merc A 220 in rose gold and I can totally swing it. Please tell me it is okay to buy the Merc and style upon everyone I hate. Alternatively, tell me to gently caress myself and be real and hit up that Mazda SkyActiv goodness. The 2022 Mazda 6 Concept is hot AF.
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May 16, 2021 10:42
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bij posted:I am in the market for a new car. I was settled on a 2021 Mazda 6 Carbon but then I saw the Merc A 220 in rose gold and I can totally swing it. Please tell me it is okay to buy the Merc and style upon everyone I hate. THe Mazda is a car that you'll safely be able to own outside the warranty if that matters to you.
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May 16, 2021 14:23
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I'm no expert but the Mazda will probably be a much more fun and reliable car to drive. Don't let the, uh haters, make you buy a worse car for more money. Stick with the Mazda.
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May 16, 2021 14:35
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DildenAnders posted:I'm no expert but the Mazda will probably be a much more fun and reliable car to drive. Don't let the, uh haters, make you buy a worse car for more money. Stick with the Mazda. Getting a lot of hater vibes from this post tbh don't listen to him OP
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May 16, 2021 15:56
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Do Mazdas still evaporate when exposed to the weather? I can't remember if they've made the corrosion protection any better.
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May 16, 2021 15:59
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It's ok, the A class isn't proper bougie anyway
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May 16, 2021 16:36
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I don't really know where else to ask this - anyone familiar with the best (cheapest) places to buy tires online in Canada? Normally I'd order them shipped to the states and drive down but not happening for awhile.
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May 16, 2021 16:37
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bij posted:I am in the market for a new car. I was settled on a 2021 Mazda 6 Carbon but then I saw the Merc A 220 in rose gold and I can totally swing it. Please tell me it is okay to buy the Merc and style upon everyone I hate. 
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May 16, 2021 16:43
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General feeling where I lived before was A or B Class is the Merc for your wife, C class is where it begins and anything lower than halfway up the C range was Babby's First Merc for people who couldn't afford better than the base model. If you were over 22 and still driving a basic C class you were a failure in the eyes of your Merc peers. Where I live now nobody can afford a mercedes lol. Really though if you want the car for yourself, get it. But if you want the car to impress others, forget it.
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May 16, 2021 17:10
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VelociBacon posted:I don't really know where else to ask this - anyone familiar with the best (cheapest) places to buy tires online in Canada? Normally I'd order them shipped to the states and drive down but not happening for awhile. You would think there would be a place that sells tires, in Canada.
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May 16, 2021 17:31
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spankmeister posted:You would think there would be a place that sells tires, in Canada. The business you're suggesting is better equipped to sell me patio furniture or cheap kitchen appliances. Don't be fooled by the name.
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May 16, 2021 17:36
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VelociBacon posted:I don't really know where else to ask this - anyone familiar with the best (cheapest) places to buy tires online in Canada? Normally I'd order them shipped to the states and drive down but not happening for awhile. I have no personal experience, but blackcircles.ca comes up a lot on redflagdeals They have a 10% code now on top of the mail in rebates and such https://www.blackcircles.ca/en/vipcircles Just poking around, before the discount they're more expensive than Costco on a bunch of stuff.
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May 16, 2021 17:54
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VelociBacon posted:I don't really know where else to ask this - anyone familiar with the best (cheapest) places to buy tires online in Canada? Normally I'd order them shipped to the states and drive down but not happening for awhile. The last time I bought tires, a couple springs ago, I got them from a place called 1010tires.com They were slightly more expensive than another place for the same thing, but they happened to have a facility about 10 minutes away from where I live. The other place was in Quebec.
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May 16, 2021 18:17
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kastein posted:Do Mazdas still evaporate when exposed to the weather? I can't remember if they've made the corrosion protection any better. My '07 was just starting to show rust in the rear wheel arches when I sold it a year ago but it was assembled in japan so maybe they did something different over there? Is Mazda actually moving forward with this rwd I-6 model?
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May 16, 2021 19:12
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Can you cover up hail damage with body putty when you're repainting a car?
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May 16, 2021 20:46
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NotNut posted:Can you cover up hail damage with body putty when you're repainting a car? Sure. It's not gonna last very long, but you "can" do it.
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May 16, 2021 21:05
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NotNut posted:Can you cover up hail damage with body putty when you're repainting a car? Generally no, unless it's very very light. The filler will separate once it heat cycles in the sun a few dozen times. If you're repainting anyways and dropping the cash on supplies to paint it anyways, spend the little extra on a stud gun and fix it right.
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May 16, 2021 21:05
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Powershift posted:Generally no, unless it's very very light. The filler will separate once it heat cycles in the sun a few dozen times. It is pretty light. The lightest pic of hail damage I can find on Google is heavier than what I've got.
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May 16, 2021 21:26
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NotNut posted:It is pretty light. The lightest pic of hail damage I can find on Google is heavier than what I've got. If it's that light you should be able to get a PDR guy to repair it.
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May 16, 2021 21:49
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bij posted:I am in the market for a new car. I was settled on a 2021 Mazda 6 Carbon but then I saw the Merc A 220 in rose gold and I can totally swing it. Please tell me it is okay to buy the Merc and style upon everyone I hate. I bought a mazda3 turbo awd, it gets compared to the A class on price and specs along with the cx-30. It's a very good car, the only thing the A class might have it beat on is the fake leather formulation, vented seats, and lease deals. There's some excellent ergonomics, I can drive like a total jerk and stay very comfortable. I did spend a while hunting down and fixing a weird rattle noise (passenger footwell air vent), that part is classic Mazda.
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May 17, 2021 02:56
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You can use fancier modern body filler products that will handle thermal cycling but you still should try to use the minimum possible. Kosmoski talks about it in this video, first half is body prep. https://youtu.be/10xfzZ7-0MA Motronic posted:If it's that light you should be able to get a PDR guy to repair it. Do they have special pdr techniques for many small dents? glances at peppered hood
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May 17, 2021 03:17
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taqueso posted:Do they have special pdr techniques for many small dents? glances at peppered hood I've seen them pull tiny stuff, but it's just the standard (but smaller) "rivet" thing that they epoxy/hot glue whatever (I don't know the specifics) and then pull it out. I've seen them use suction cups for larger stuff but that probably doesn't work on the tinier stuff.
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May 17, 2021 03:44
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taqueso posted:Do they have special pdr techniques for many small dents? glances at peppered hood I've had insurance send me to PDR plenty of times after hail storms - roof, hood, trunk, tops of fenders, tops of doors, etc. I'm talking the entire body panel covered in hail damage, if not nearly the entire car. You usually can't tell it had hail damage once they're done, so long as it's not super deep and the paint didn't crack. Stuff on a complex curve or something creased will need a bit more love than PDR, but they can still massage it a bit.
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May 17, 2021 05:21
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I'm sorry if this is not enough details but this https://imgur.com/crj8xTA is coming off the side of my car doors. How do I go about fixing this myself or will I need to go to a mechanic? It seems like such a minor thing to go to a mechanic for.
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May 17, 2021 14:36
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Brokeback is a writeoff. $200 1996 Maxima that's been sitting for 3 years - how deep does the well go? It had a new fuel pump when parked, ~160k, automatic, tach needle broken off of the gauge (lol). Original timing belt and the tires are flat, so both of those issues need to be addressed immediately. I helped move it out of its slumber last year, and it was not very happy - but it had a very dead battery and 3-4 year old gas in it. It then drove 40 miles to its current resting place without any real issue, once the tires got aired up, but it ran a bit rough (probably the ancient gas). I'm just after a running vehicle right now, and $200 for something that only needs tires immediately (and a timing belt ASAP) is pretty appealing. It's a VG30 with the 4 speed auto. GLE trim, very clean overall. It's exempt from smog here due to age, just has to pass safety (though obviously I'd be fixing anything tripping the CEL). The timing belt is my biggest concern, I'm not sure how difficult it is on the VG30 in FWD configuration. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:00 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 14:56
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You'll spend many multiples of the original purchase price digging it out of maintenance debt. VG30 things: Do the coolant pump/tstat and all the coolant hoses in the valley. Might as well shotgun all the belts/hoses now. Thing is probably gonna eat another fuel pump too. It'll probably have a few leaks crop up from sitting.
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May 17, 2021 15:55
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I don't care about maintenance debt at this price - for the price, it's gonna be a "if it lasts 6 months, I'll be happy" deal. Fully expect all belts/hoses, (maybe) fuel pump, timing belt, water pump, all fluids. The timing belt is maybe the only thing I can't tackle myself. But it's confirmed to run on the current fuel pump 6 months ago, so it MIGHT not need that yet. The car is in good shape, body/interior wise, aside from the tach being broken (needle fell off). Even has clearcoat still - a rarity for any 90s car, but especially a 90s car with white paint. Which hoses are in the valley? I know the knock sensor is down there, but Nissans eat knock sensors for breakfast anyway (and NA ones don't usually throw a CEL if you disconnect them when they die; they'll store a code, but no light and won't pull timing - they'll sure as hell pull timing hard as hell if you use a knockoff knock sensor though!). I can't drive the Matrix much bc my knees are too hosed to drive anything with 3 pedals. I also want to do a compression test on it before I grab it - it ran like total poo poo last time I saw it, but the gas was also a few years old. It would drive, definitely down on power, wouldn't idle until it warmed up. The way it ran sounded kinda like it either jumped time by a tooth on one cam, and/or had bad gas. For $200 I'm willing to chance it, but we already agreed I won't buy it if I don't think I can make it roadworthy. She's going to junk it otherwise. e: there's a chance I can get my hands back on an Outlander Sport I flipped awhile back. High miles, but drives well (especially for a high mileage CVT). e2: nope, they also flipped it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:32 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 16:15
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Come to Seattle and I'll give you my Mercedes, lol.
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May 17, 2021 19:55
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Thinking about repainting a car myself with rattle spray paint. The current paint has peeling clear coat and is a color I don't like and the car itself is worth less than $1500, so it's not like it'd be a huge loss if I mess it up. How bad of an idea is that?
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May 17, 2021 19:57
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