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Rad as hell and I kind of wish the valve cover said HONZDA
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May 4, 2021 06:49
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got off on a technicality posted:
Fully sick. I'm looking at getting an aftermarket steering wheel for my NB to get the ergos to fit me better. Is there a consensus on 330/340mm? Looking at a Nardi wheel with a deep dish and a quick disconnect hub. Probably NRG for the hub.
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May 5, 2021 20:18
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I ordered a sparco seat, pci mounts, 4 piece harness (I think I should have got a six) and the hard dog m4, oh and some motor and diff mounts. For a club nd1 
Virgil Vox fucked around with this message at 06:57 on May 6, 2021 |
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May 6, 2021 06:49
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Cancel the 4pt if you can, most clubs aren't going to let you run them
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May 6, 2021 17:08
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BlackMK4 posted:Cancel the 4pt if you can, most clubs aren't going to let you run them I’m too late on that one but I’m gonna run it and stock belts only using the 4pt for auto x (roughly 2x a month). Gonna wait to try nasa till I have more cooling on the transmission (NDs are fragile) and differential (.6l !?) If I recall right your in AZ right? If you or someone could help me with a first track day when I get all this gear sorted that would be cool. Although my ultimate goal is to be pretty good at solo and do a hill climb or two
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May 7, 2021 07:30
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Speaking of cooling, I highly recommend the versus brake ducks
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May 7, 2021 07:33
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Virgil Vox posted:I’m too late on that one but I’m gonna run it and stock belts only using the 4pt for auto x (roughly 2x a month). Gonna wait to try nasa till I have more cooling on the transmission (NDs are fragile) and differential (.6l !?) I am  I run the whole NASA AZ schedule and mix in some ProAuto/SpeedVentures/Cali club stuff. NASA isn't going to let you run without a roll bar, but ProAuto is the wild west.Shoot me a PM whenever or when the time comes.
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May 7, 2021 17:15
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I'm thinking of getting a glass-window compatible roll bar for my '95 NA - is this a dumb thing to run on the street? I really want to take my car to the track since I upgraded the wheels/brakes/suspension, but I don't want to risk cracking my head open during street driving - is this a helmet-only thing or are there any that work well without a helmet?
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May 7, 2021 18:48
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Voltage posted:I'm thinking of getting a glass-window compatible roll bar for my '95 NA - is this a dumb thing to run on the street? I really want to take my car to the track since I upgraded the wheels/brakes/suspension, but I don't want to risk cracking my head open during street driving - is this a helmet-only thing or are there any that work well without a helmet? Here in the UK at least — and I imagine everywhere else too — you can get "street" or "race" bars. Street ones typically mount in line with the seatbelt pillar and put the bar mostly out of your heads way, where race ones are further out in front. TBH it's a trade-off of risks even with a street bar but there's no way in hell I'd run a race bar without a helmet.
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May 7, 2021 23:41
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Holy poo poo yea don't run a race bar. Racing cages is one part of a safety system than includes a harness and helmet with a HANS, eliminate one part and the whole safety system is compromised.
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May 7, 2021 23:56
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Yeah, race bars are for racing. Not to mention, any properly engineered street bar will provide you with the protection you need in a rollover:  (Via https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/your-mx5-is-floppy-heres-how-to-stiffen-it-up/)
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May 8, 2021 13:54
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That article mentions door bars stiffening up the car front to back. Might have to invest in the door bar/rollover bar combo in future. I do want to look into the fender bars too eventually though I could probably knock those together myself without much trouble.
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May 8, 2021 14:58
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The door bars were without a doubt the best bang-for-the-buck mod I've made to my NA6, bar maybe 200tw tyres. I can jack up a single corner of the car and the doors still open and shut perfectly, the whole car is noticeably stiffer. (ignore the terrible bodywork, that was the previous owner and most of it is already gone with the rest to go soon) I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 15:07 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 8, 2021 15:02
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Cool, those are definitely on the list then once I get it back on the road. What's the mounting of the main roll bar like? I'm assuming you have to do some drilling? The bofi one said the door bars bolt to the bar and using existing mounts by your feet.
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May 8, 2021 15:13
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Super simple stuff. 1. Remove the carpets, seats (it's four bolts each and makes it much more comfortable), some plastics and sheetmetal 2. Clearance some of the sheemetal that you're not able to remove 3. Test fit the bar and mark the holes 4. Remove the bar and drill the holes 5. Put the rear on jackstands, remove the wheels and the wheel liners 6. Put the bar back in and bolt it all up 7. Cut out some room for the bar on the plastics, sheetmetal and carpet 8. Put it all back together Only on the race bars do the door bars bolt into the same holes, just because of how much more forward the race bars are. But yeah there's two tiny bolts in the front quarters that each door bar bolts to, it's surprisingly solid even so. I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 15:20 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 8, 2021 15:17
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Awesome, doesn't sound like much of a faff to do. Thank you.
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May 8, 2021 16:48
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Trimming the panels on the ND hard dog really sucks
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May 9, 2021 07:37
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https://v8roadsters.com/product/hd-sway-bar-mounts/ Anyone wanting to use these sway bar mounts as replacements/upgrades front the OEM ones be aware the mounting holes for the sway bar brackets are wrong and you'll need them BETWEEN the ones they've knocked out for you. (NA and NB at least) You either get some different sway bar brackets or weld up a few holes and drill the ones you need. I've done the latter. Oh and their bends are wrong so you'll need to adjust them for that too  I bought them from Bofi and there was nowt on their site about the mounting hole issue so I've left a review on the site for anyone else. I went to take a look at the above site and of course they mention it.
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May 9, 2021 17:57
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V8R is to be avoided
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May 9, 2021 18:03
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BlackMK4 posted:V8R is to be avoided I'm listening...
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May 9, 2021 19:02
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Today I had to change the driver's side lowbeam bulb on my 06. This is apparently the recommended method to do so: I'm beginning to regret not holding out for an NA.
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May 10, 2021 00:24
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As Nero Danced posted:Today I had to change the driver's side lowbeam bulb on my 06. This is apparently the recommended method to do so: drat that's rough. But I like NC's. 
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May 10, 2021 02:17
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For what it's worth it was only a 3-hour job with my brother, it wasn't really that bad just a major inconvenience. I would recommend doing all the bulbs at once because I am not doing that poo poo again.
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May 10, 2021 02:55
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Finally got the M4 bar on, trim panels back and sparco evo in. Lots of ins and outs on the seat. Full forward and up a few pegs equally front to back on the PCI mount which is still lower and further back then what I did OEM. Passes broomstick test. Clearance for tightening stuff is horrible. Still need to somehow secure the original floor pretensioner but then I should be set. I’m amazed at how difficult blind spot checks are. It’s comfy and the harness bar works great.
Virgil Vox fucked around with this message at 06:59 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 06:56
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"Only" a 3 hour job? Takes 1 minute on the NB. I looked up the procedure on the Fit since one of the bulbs is out and even there you can do it through the wheel well by undoing one clip. At least that's not something you have to do often nowadays.
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May 10, 2021 07:11
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I’m not sure where to post this but I took my NB autocrossing on Conti ECSes this weekend and it had so much grip that I felt like I was going to squeeze my innards out through my mouth before the rear would break loose. I cannot believe how much grip these tires have.
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May 10, 2021 07:28
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As Nero Danced posted:Today I had to change the driver's side lowbeam bulb on my 06. This is apparently the recommended method to do so: Gonna have to do this with my pal's one soon cuz one headlight is badly pitted and the other has moisture inside it. Can't be as bad as doing the rear bumper, well it can probably because every single one of those trim screws had 0 thread on em thanks to a long life in Scotland
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May 10, 2021 12:59
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Check out this  digital dash somone made for a Miata with an arduino. Different display modes, can tell what gear the car is in based on RPM and Speedometer readings. All kind of neat things.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4QwvA_xGU4 Coredump fucked around with this message at 14:06 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 14:03
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Virgil Vox posted:Finally got the M4 bar on, trim panels back and sparco evo in. Lots of ins and outs on the seat. Full forward and up a few pegs equally front to back on the PCI mount which is still lower and further back then what I did OEM. Passes broomstick test. Clearance for tightening stuff is horrible. Still need to somehow secure the original floor pretensioner but then I should be set. I’m amazed at how difficult blind spot checks are. It’s comfy and the harness bar works great. I ran the long blindspot mirrors in my S2000 for this reason Olympic Mathlete posted:I'm listening... There are a lot of posts floating around about poo poo that doesn't fit and part failures, as they say, it is known
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May 10, 2021 19:58
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BlackMK4 posted:There are a lot of posts floating around about poo poo that doesn't fit and part failures, as they say, it is known I would've replaced the OEM ones with OEM ones plus those little stiffening blocks if I could've gotten some OEM ones. Seems like choice is a little limited here unfortunately, this is one of only about 3 V8 roadster parts they sell. Lesson learned immediately with these, I imagine they'll be fine once fitted though. Certainly sturdier than what I cut out 
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May 10, 2021 21:58
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Love it  Im fixing to run stock belts too. But It’s amazing how little your body feels g forces now, I’m sure I’ll get used to it quick.
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May 11, 2021 06:27
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3 best things I did to my NB for the track before sacrificing it to the Volkzda; steel braided brake hoses, manual steering conversion, track seat. Like driving two different cars (same suspension, tires, brakes).
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May 12, 2021 01:48
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Joe Mama posted:3 best things I did to my NB for the track before sacrificing it to the Volkzda; steel braided brake hoses, manual steering conversion, track seat. Like driving two different cars (same suspension, tires, brakes). Thank you for this. I'm wanting to track my NB Miata this year. I'll keep power steering though.
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May 12, 2021 18:30
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I love my electric power steering
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May 12, 2021 18:38
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BlackMK4 posted:I love my electric power steering Is it on a NB? How's the feedback feel through it?
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May 12, 2021 18:41
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Yes, it is on a NB. The feedback works great for me, I keep it set to the lowest assist level but I think it can be turned down even further with a different rheostat. It is kind of expensive though.
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May 12, 2021 18:43
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I don’t know other threads to ask but I guess here goes: in general wider tires have more grip, but why specifically? Is it the wider track? If it is the wider track could a smaller offset with a skinner tire say a 215 +38 instead of 235 +45 be just as quick? I’m considering another set of wheels, I like the quick turn in feeling of skinnier tires but I want to be faster at performance driving. I noticed a difference between 205 and 215 (not the same exact tire but both 200tw fatties) with the stock wheels and prefer the 205s.
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May 17, 2021 06:57
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Contact patch with two different width tires are actually the same. The tire has to support the weight of an identically heavy car regardless of width. When you start cancelling out both sides of the equation you soon realize that tire pressure is the only part that effects contact patch. I, for example, run 235mm street tires at 35 PSI. I did the math and found out I needed to run 29 PSI in my 275mm tires to get the same vertical deflection, and therefore get the best performance (In reality the pressure is higher because the translated loading on the tire during autocross ends up being much higher than street driving, but the same principle applies). As to why one has more grip than the other, it doesn't always. Naturally the physics of high performance driving/racing cannot be boiled down to a single sentence. The real answer, as you may have been able to guess by this point, is "it depends". The suspension geometry actually has the largest effect. Any good race car will be designed around the tire. Slip angle is the measure of the angle between the direction the tire is facing, and the direction the traction surface (the road) is moving. There is a critical slip angle in which the cars inertia overcomes the tire ability to grip the road. You want to stay below that. But also you don't want that to be a sudden transition into oversteer or understeer because you won't be able to tell when it happens unless you are a seasoned pro, but more about that in a second. You want your terminal grip to happen gradually. You want the tire to slowly lose grip to give you enough feedback to be able to correct by letting up on the throttle, brake, or steering angle (lock). That lets you stay closer to the edge and therefore maintain the highest grip and, theoretically, the fastest lap times. Pros need a smaller transition zone because they can react faster, making them even faster on a similar performing set up. You can manually change the transition feel of a tire with the suspension. The easiest way is with camber. By increasing negative static camber, you can improve overall lateral grip by introducing more tire width as the car leans into a turn. However as tires start cambering positively relative to the road, the transition to loss of grip is very sudden and may result in snap oversteer or front end plowing. The opposite is true for close to zero static camber. The tire begins to roll off it's tread as it leans, resulting in a smoother slip angle transition. This is more dramatic with a wider tire. Dynamic camber can provide a near zero static camber, but provide negative camber in compression as the car rolls, increasing cornering grip while mainting good straight line traction. Again increasing dynamic camber reduces the slip angle transition making the car snap oversteer or plow. Again, this is more dramatic with a wider tire. Another way you can maximize grip is by reducing the roll of a car in cornering. But because the tire doesn't slowly roll off the tread as it leans, it also increases snap oversteer or plow. This is why if you want an autocross car to rotate more, you stiffen the rear antisway bar, making the rear slip faster than the front. Again, this is more dramatic with a wider tire. Not tied with the grip discussion explicitly, Miata guys are faster on 275s for autocross, but when you do time attack, 245s are optimal because the additional grip does not overcome the need for straight line speed. So be careful why you seek grip, it may not be faster, though it may feel that way. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 13:58 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 13:56
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um excuse me posted:a quality tire grip post Thank you for the effortpost! Still digesting the info but it's making sense; after I did an alignment (maxed castor, about -2 camber all around, small toe in) and sways I was surprised how quickly it suddenly oversteered with little warning. Getting a lot better at catching it though; I auto x as much as I can and ran some all seasons in the winter, they certainly helped train me to be even smoother. Doing the chalk on the sidewall trick and running 205/45/17 200tw Re71s, hot is around 30 PSI and I'm still not rolling the sidewall, I haven't really dipped under that but I should find a parking lot at night and see how low they can go. I kinda want to keep the car as light and flickable as possible hence an aggressive offset but w/ a more OEM sized tire. On the other hand I want to be competitive in STR auto x but everyone there is running 9in wide wheels with a 245.
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May 17, 2021 20:20
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the car can still be flickable, you'll just have to run some toe out in the front (which will destroy your tires if you want to drive several hundred miles on the freeway every week) also um excuse me's post starting with "tire width has nothing to do with contact patch" is factually just wrong. the rest of the post is good, though.
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May 17, 2021 20:48
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