|
Luminous Cow posted:I’m using Army Painter brand paints. I've found that a lot of AP paints have pretty bad coverage in general and they often don't mix well with water. You have to shake most of them for an absolute age for them to work properly. If you have some form of agitator beads, throw them in there and shake the bejeezus out of them and they should work somewhat better at least. I've been phasing out my AP paints in favor of Vallejo.
|
# ? May 23, 2021 17:46 |
|
|
# ? Jun 2, 2024 21:04 |
|
Latest Magnus WIP. How it started: How it’s going:
|
# ? May 23, 2021 17:55 |
|
I will never stan a Magnus that forgoes the nipple horns That withstanding, it looks gorgeous
|
# ? May 23, 2021 18:04 |
|
TheDiceMustRoll posted:Is that space wolves grey(contrast) on the wings? It's really good. It's 2 coats of full-strength apothecary white over wraithbone, then 2-3 coats of aerhermatic blue thinned down a lot with contrast medium.
|
# ? May 23, 2021 18:12 |
|
Winklebottom posted:I've found that a lot of AP paints have pretty bad coverage in general and they often don't mix well with water. You have to shake most of them for an absolute age for them to work properly. If you have some form of agitator beads, throw them in there and shake the bejeezus out of them and they should work somewhat better at least. Yeah I learned early on you have to shake the hell out of them. I’ve got an agitator bead in each of my paints. Luminous Cow fucked around with this message at 18:55 on May 23, 2021 |
# ? May 23, 2021 18:46 |
|
Completed a Deathwatch Redemptor Dreadnaught of the Retributors Chapter today!
|
# ? May 23, 2021 19:53 |
|
Painted up a dragonborn spellcaster from Stonehaven I should probably get started on Cursed City now...
|
# ? May 23, 2021 19:53 |
|
Virtual Russian posted:Are they? I work in ceramics and we ball mill stuff, we never ever use glass as they can leach soda and significantly alter what you are mixing. You have to be 100% certain of the origin, type, and quality of glass due to that possibility. Maybe it is more forgiving with paints though? We eat and drink out of glass all the time specifically cause it doesn't leach chemicals. Maybe when it breaks or heats to a high temp?
|
# ? May 23, 2021 20:24 |
|
Winklebottom posted:I've found that a lot of AP paints have pretty bad coverage in general and they often don't mix well with water. You have to shake most of them for an absolute age for them to work properly. If you have some form of agitator beads, throw them in there and shake the bejeezus out of them and they should work somewhat better at least. AP paints are a lot like 90s citadel paints, thin and translucent. If you're not used to layering, you won't like them. Also buy a vortex mixer
|
# ? May 23, 2021 22:12 |
|
https://twitter.com/klimtbizkit/status/1396572051041828866
|
# ? May 23, 2021 22:38 |
|
thats a pro-tier twitter name
|
# ? May 23, 2021 23:24 |
|
I finally got two chaos space marines in a finished state. I’m still terrible at painting but I’m absurdly proud of them. The funny part is I’ll probably never use them. I’ll put up pics once I’m not stuck on lovely 4g.
|
# ? May 23, 2021 23:48 |
|
Finished the Crimson Court, not super happy with how Vellas came out but I'm done loving around with her.
|
# ? May 24, 2021 00:36 |
How the hell do people commit to a single color scheme for their entire army, especially a horde? I have 60 clanrats painted and I did a different scheme for each batch for fun.
|
|
# ? May 24, 2021 00:59 |
|
Printed and painted this Archvillain Games dark elf adept! These AV minis are all kind of busy with unnecessary detail. This one had a weird cloth spike thing protruding from under the arm that I decided to clip off. They're definitely not very painter-friendly, but when they're done I think they look pretty cool.
|
# ? May 24, 2021 01:45 |
|
I made some Romans!
|
# ? May 24, 2021 01:47 |
|
Cat Face Joe posted:We eat and drink out of glass all the time specifically cause it doesn't leach chemicals. Maybe when it breaks or heats to a high temp? I deal primarily with glaze (glass) and let me assure you tons of stuff can leach out of glass. We eat and drink out of very specific compositions of glass because they do not leach, not all glass is created equal though. Leaching doesn't occur due to heat or breakage, leaching happens when the glass is in contact with a chemical compositions that can join with molecules not 100% fused in the crystalline matrix of the glass. Most often something even just mildly acidic will do it. Most good tableware glass is made to have zero chance of this happening, but it would shock you how much tableware available can leach, especially cheap stuff coming out of undeveloped countries. Anything cheap while also bright and colorful should always be treated with suspicion.
|
# ? May 24, 2021 02:31 |
|
Another quick one tonight. Bugbear I 3d printed and painted.
|
# ? May 24, 2021 03:34 |
|
Verisimilidude posted:
I love the color gradient you achieved on the cloak.
|
# ? May 24, 2021 13:21 |
|
Dienes posted:I love the color gradient you achieved on the cloak. Thanks! That’s the part I’m happiest with
|
# ? May 24, 2021 13:40 |
|
AndyElusive posted:Completed a Deathwatch Redemptor Dreadnaught of the Retributors Chapter today! Looks friggin great. Just finished one this week too, your lettering is pretty dang good.
|
# ? May 24, 2021 21:06 |
|
I added too much super glue to one plastic joint, and I need to reglue. I should be able to remove the excess glue using acetone, right?
|
# ? May 24, 2021 22:34 |
|
Fingat posted:Looks friggin great. Just finished one this week too, your lettering is pretty dang good. Much appreciated! I recently discovered Micron and Artist's Loft illustration pens with 0.05mm tips and they're super ideal for lettering at that scale. I highly recommend them.
|
# ? May 24, 2021 22:49 |
|
Here’s my first ever CSM painted. Be gentle, I’m new at this
|
# ? May 25, 2021 05:18 |
|
Luminous Cow posted:Here’s my first ever CSM painted. Be gentle, I’m new at this Off to a good start ! I'd say they want a wash to bring out the edge detail and fill in the shadows.
|
# ? May 25, 2021 06:08 |
|
mllaneza posted:Off to a good start ! I'd say they want a wash to bring out the edge detail and fill in the shadows. Yeah I forgot to mention I hadn’t done a wash yet. I want to watch a video on doing a wash before I do it
|
# ? May 25, 2021 06:17 |
Luminous Cow posted:Here’s my first ever CSM painted. Be gentle, I’m new at this To bring it to the next level without too much difficulty I strongly recommend a wash and highlighting (I really recommend it and it's not as hard as it might seem, especially with practice). It'll really bring out the shapes. You could also color in some of the details like the tubes and trim. Keep these miniatures since it can be really fun and motivating to compare your skill later on to when you just started.
|
|
# ? May 25, 2021 06:23 |
|
Asking the thread before I try this: if I brush primer onto a Reaper Bones and then hit it with a zenithal from a rattlecan, it shouldn't get tacky, right?
|
# ? May 25, 2021 15:55 |
|
Lumbermouth posted:Asking the thread before I try this: if I brush primer onto a Reaper Bones and then hit it with a zenithal from a rattlecan, it shouldn't get tacky, right? Hard to be sure, I would test it on a mini (or piece of sprue) you don't care about first.
|
# ? May 25, 2021 16:05 |
|
Bucnasti posted:Hard to be sure, I would test it on a mini (or piece of sprue) you don't care about first. I'll try it out on one of my kobolds, I bought like 30 of them. I've done enough reading to know a) Bones get tacky if sprayed directly with primer and b) you can use brush-on primer or even just hobby paint to do a first coat on them. I'm hoping the initial coat is enough of a seal to allow for a zenithal spray.
|
# ? May 25, 2021 16:25 |
|
Lumbermouth posted:I'll try it out on one of my kobolds, I bought like 30 of them. I've done enough reading to know a) Bones get tacky if sprayed directly with primer and b) you can use brush-on primer or even just hobby paint to do a first coat on them. I'm hoping the initial coat is enough of a seal to allow for a zenithal spray. Yeah, I think I'd be concerned about that too. I would definitely make sure your undercoat was fully cured before spraying it. I think the big question is if the aerosol spray would be able to penetrate the undercoat and react with the plastic underneath.
|
# ? May 25, 2021 16:50 |
|
Maigius posted:I added too much super glue to one plastic joint, and I need to reglue. I should be able to remove the excess glue using acetone, right? Acetone will probably melt a plastic mini, the glue should chip off fairly easily with a knife.
|
# ? May 25, 2021 18:35 |
|
After picking up a new resin printer a while ago I've been getting into the painting hobby again after so long of being away. I used to play Warhammer a while back but my painting skills were certainly not something to be desired. I picked up a bunch of nice brushes, and a pretty decent array of different colours and washes. And here's the end result: These guys were my first jump back into it, I mistakenly base coated them grey and then realized I'd get better results with black: discovering the magic that is inks and washes I made this guy: And after all that I felt pretty into it: And here's a bonus few I've been working on lately: Was trying to get a holographic DJ table feel but I didn't have enough lighter coloured inks. Thought the blue would pop out more but I can't really go back once I put it on since I was working with transparent resin for this one: Sorry for the low quality pics, I don't have a lightbox setup but maybe I'll set one up if I want to keep posting. I'd love some feedback, I know these probably aren't quite as good as what I'd see with the same amount of effort of out most of the other posters I see here but I seem to be getting better as I go. One thing I have trouble with is lighter colours. Like pure white or yellow, I want to be able to ink wash the details and cracks in most places but it ends up just making the White or Yellow look all dirty instead. Most of the models I posted above were given a dark grey/black ink wash to try and get the details to pop out. I try to use more appropriate colours when I see it like brown ink on gold or skin but I feel like I'm not quite all there yet with how to use inks effectively. I like how most of them turn out when I give the entire model a grey/black wash, but not if there are any bright colours on the model. Any tips would be appreciated!
|
# ? May 25, 2021 20:00 |
|
DarkAvenger211 posted:Was trying to get a holographic DJ table feel but I didn't have enough lighter coloured inks. Thought the blue would pop out more but I can't really go back once I put it on since I was working with transparent resin for this one: Hell yeah. This owns. As for tips, maybe Citadel contrast paints might work well coloring transparent resin? Although they might be too dark.
|
# ? May 25, 2021 20:05 |
|
Luminous Cow posted:Here’s my first ever CSM painted. Be gentle, I’m new at this Take it from a Thousand Sons player - if you going for gold trim paint your gold first then fill in the rest of the colors. Give it an all over drybrush with gold (making sure to get all of the trim), a quick wash with a brown, then a very light highlight with lighter gold or silver. Then just go thin with your red paining in the non gold areas and dont kill yourself with trying to be super exact with getting it up to the trim. A brown wash on your red will not only work great with the red but fit in with the gold and will cover a lot of mistakes.
|
# ? May 25, 2021 20:10 |
|
I'm fairly new at this myself. I made a lot of mistakes with my latest guy, but I wouldn't be embarrassed to plop him on my table.
|
# ? May 25, 2021 22:37 |
|
5-Headed Snake God posted:I'm fairly new at this myself. I made a lot of mistakes with my latest guy, but I wouldn't be embarrassed to plop him on my table. That came out really well and I'd be proud to put that on a table too. Great job dude, keep it up.
|
# ? May 25, 2021 22:46 |
|
AndyElusive posted:Hell yeah. This owns. Yeah I did an experiment with contrast blue over a clear miniature sword and it looked very vibrant and retained the transparency but probably a bit too dark for a hologram look. Maybe the contrast turquoise or teal might get the effect you want. Also Contrast Apothecary White would probably help with getting the white to look shaded but not look dirty. Otherwise to do white over black base start with a thin layer of medium gray, then a thin layer of light gray and finally a layer of white. Painting white directly over a black base is the way of madness.
|
# ? May 26, 2021 00:38 |
|
Painted up a quick three Valour Korp plasmagunners. These are great because with the workflow I have set they take about 15 minutes per model to get to this point. I bet if I did more than three at a time I could cut that down.
|
# ? May 26, 2021 00:54 |
|
|
# ? Jun 2, 2024 21:04 |
|
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/redgrass/redgrass-wet-palette-2-the-best-painting-tool-for-miniatures?ref=project_link Forgot to link this here for anyone who is interested but Redgrass has a kickstarter for a second version of their wet palette now featuring more space, a better seal (idk why it needs to be better, my paints break and run everywhere if I leave the lid on) and interestingly reusable palette paper. I'm not sure exactly what kind of environmental impact disposable slips of wax paper has but I don't normally splatter a lot of paint on mine so the idea of being able to stretch some paper for 10 uses seems pretty good to me. Also it's bigger (but not like, as big as the huge one)
|
# ? May 26, 2021 01:02 |