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OMGVBFLOL posted:Honestly, I would suggest trying slowing down when climbing those grades, not as much for the car's sake as for the sake of your peace of mind. if you merge right and go 55 (or whatever speed the trucks are going) you may find that you're more at ease about the whole thing. or you might find that it stresses you out even more, who knows, we're all different I've considered that, but also that would add so much time to the drives given how long the distances I deal with are. I've just always tended to keep it in the highest gear it will run smoothly in unless I'm doing a pull onto the interstate or something, I'm wondering if I have been unnecessarily conservative the past 10+ years. I got my SVX back together after replacing the front struts today and took it out. Feels much better, no check engine light at all, but I definitely need to get an alignment done and I'm getting a hot brake smell after parking, so I'm thinking I need to track that down. Still a massive improvement over a failed throttle position sensor and struts that had no oil whatsoever left in them.
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May 14, 2021 01:34
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Anyone got a recommendation for a brand of aftermarket CV axles? I'm debating between buying a parts store / online aftermarket one and getting one rebuilt for my SVX, they are NLA at Subaru like 90% of the parts for this car.
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May 15, 2021 22:02
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Alright. Did it. New ‘21 wrx in the driveway. It had 111 miles on it new, i dont know how anyone test drives these cars and then doesnt buy one. Its like driving the best go cart ever.
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May 16, 2021 03:05
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Built EJ207 stroker (built for 650+hp according to the shop that built it) in a 2010 STI. Good idea or best idea? E: to replace the EJ257 making knock knock jokes.
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May 16, 2021 04:02
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Bajaha posted:Built EJ207 stroker (built for 650+hp according to the shop that built it) in a 2010 STI. Good idea or best idea? With or without ACVS?
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May 16, 2021 05:04
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Anyone got a recommendation for a brand of aftermarket CV axles? I'm debating between buying a parts store / online aftermarket one and getting one rebuilt for my SVX, they are NLA at Subaru like 90% of the parts for this car. i just got the one autozone recommended, and got a new one rather than a remanufactured one per reccommendations here and elsewhere e: for a 95 impreza, so similar generation but not the same, fwiw
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May 16, 2021 05:33
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:With or without ACVS? V9 heads so that would be with ACVS I poked the seller and he'll get me in touch with the shop that built it to get more info. From the seller "I believe it's manly piston and rods. King bearings and a nitrated ej257 crank." Diving into nasioc I'm getting the sense it's not as simple as I was hoping for, but I'll chase down this rabbit hole a little and see where it takes me.
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May 16, 2021 06:00
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Anyone got a recommendation for a brand of aftermarket CV axles? I'm debating between buying a parts store / online aftermarket one and getting one rebuilt for my SVX, they are NLA at Subaru like 90% of the parts for this car. Raxles. A bit pricey for CV axles and ordering is kind of a pain in the rear end (you have to email / call them - no webstore), but very well regarded. I got a set for my old Prelude a number of years back and they were excellent.
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May 16, 2021 07:58
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Anyone got a recommendation for a brand of aftermarket CV axles? I'm debating between buying a parts store / online aftermarket one and getting one rebuilt for my SVX, they are NLA at Subaru like 90% of the parts for this car. I can tell you what NOT to get. Advance Auto's house brand (I got a brand new one, outer CV was popping within a month... though it's over a year later and hasn't blown up yet, just pops more), and a Napa reman (came with the car, tried to shake my teeth out under acceleration). Gonna agree with Black88GTA, Raxles was the go-to when I was into Hondas and very well regarded, especially for high HP builds or some of the more "different" motor swaps that needed a custom axle.
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May 16, 2021 09:05
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Bajaha posted:V9 heads so that would be with ACVS I poked the seller and he'll get me in touch with the shop that built it to get more info. Yah def problematic, the ECU will likely have a shitfit. I think KaptainBallistik has a real issue too with finding accurate info on getting to actually work. I'd feel that you really need a aftermarket ECU to make this work but I havent tried to use differeing heads from what the ECU expects before. I'll go ask
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May 16, 2021 10:40
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fresh_cheese posted:Alright. Did it. New ‘21 wrx in the driveway. Goongrats on the new WRX. What color?
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May 16, 2021 16:00
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net work error posted:Goongrats on the new WRX. What color? Crystal white pearl Was not part of the selection criteria, but im really happy with it. Put 150 mi on it yesterday just enjoying how it drives. I get it now. I understand why people _really_ like scoobaroos.
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May 16, 2021 16:08
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When I bought my WRX color was the last thing I cared about. Except silver, silver is awful.
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May 16, 2021 17:06
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Just bought a new to me ‘17 outback 3.6r. I adore it, and I can’t wait to do all sorts of dumb boy things like black out the badges and chrome trim, swap the rsb with a 19mm, and maybe throw on a louder axleback. But i’ve noticed the driver-side headlight has had condensation it in since I picked it up. All times of day, even if it’s been in the shade. The passenger side one is fine. From some googling, it’s possible a vent is plugged, but I couldn’t seem to find any vent holes when I looked under the hood. Any suggestions I can try before schlepping back to the scheister dealer?
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May 17, 2021 17:08
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My Granddaughter's 2011 Forester is leaking oil from what looks like the back of the engine. It's a car she inherited from my father in law with 60,000 miles on it. Apparently these FB motors are complete garbage when it comes to oil leaks because Subaru used RTV instead of actual gaskets? You would think after all the years of head gasket failure that Subaru would figure this garbage out.
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May 18, 2021 12:51
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The engine in my '13 Outback went from that at about double that mileage. Fun fact, they're going to need to pull the engine to fix it. I went through this last fall, and I was having the clutch done anyhow, so I expected an engine pull. Third party shop quoted me around $2500 (can't remember if this included clutch parts). When they got it out and had a look under the timing cover (also leaking) they found the cam gear teeth were razor sharp and on the edge of failure from being run dry by the previous owner. Those cam gears are $250 each, and with all the other poo poo that likely could fail from running on low/no oil, I wound up buying an FB out of a rear end wrecked car for $1600~ to swap in with 80k less miles. The good news is, any FB25 will swap in just fine. Mine came out of an auto trans car. My VIN reading as a manual trans threw off the ebay engine resellers and they sat on it for an extra week because they didn't understand it would bolt up just fine, that's an ECU thing and all that was to be swapped over anyhow. If it's a small leak, just feed it oil. If it's like mine was, drinking a quart a day just to leave it on the pavement, go fix it now or sell it to Carvana/highest bidder. CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 13:45 on May 18, 2021 |
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May 18, 2021 13:42
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Wait, like the rear main seal is just RTV? I've heard of using a little bit of RTV along with a normal rubber gasket on stuff but just RTV sounds like structural bondo levels of engineering.
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May 18, 2021 23:27
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Rear main seal is not RTVquote:Subaru used RTV instead of actual gaskets Subaru have been using rtv for a multitude of non head gasket stuff for a while and before the FB25 and it's fine. If anything it's good enough to be a right PITA to split components where it's used. The main area where a oil leak will occur is usually the rear main seal (Not rtv) and the cam covers in areas not slavered in rtv - the cover uses a rubber ring that has rtv used in about 30-40% coverage alongside. When the rubber gasket deteriorates, that's when you get the leak.
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May 19, 2021 00:12
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Either way it's complete bullshit that an engine leaks oil at less than 70,000 miles. Subaru quality is just as bad as ever. My son and I will probably pull the engine out sometime this summer and I'll post photos. Never pulled an FB before!
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May 19, 2021 13:26
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Then sell it to carvana and buy a toyota. RTV has been around for ages. It was probably one of the more vital things I used wrenching in the army 15 years ago, because half the humvee is sealed with RTV or it's acceptable in a pinch for non-pressure holding gaskets. There's genuinely nothing wrong with RTV. Using it in place of cork gaskets is a good thing, because cork is beginning to become scarce. It's still susceptible to heat and dry rot just like rubber seals, which will eventually give you the same problem anyhow. There's nothing saying you can't personally half-rear end it by getting underneath, cleaning the area of the leak, filling the area with a small amount of RTV, and leaving the engine off while the silicone cures. Besides, a decade old car is still a decade old car. If you don't want to deal with it, someone else will be glad to buy it off carvana or vroom or a local lot. CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 13:56 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 13:31
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Then sell it to carvana and buy a toyota. Easier to just pull the motor and fix it right. My son is a Subaru tech so he can tell me what I do wrong.
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May 19, 2021 16:10
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daslog posted:Either way it's complete bullshit that an engine leaks oil at less than 70,000 miles. Subaru quality is just as bad as ever. You already said it was inherited with low miles. It's a 10-11 year old car (going by build date) with <70k. That car has sat A LOT - it either got driven a couple of times a month on reasonable trips, or driven a few times a week down the road and back. This is exactly what happens when cars sit and don't get driven often. It could be a Chevy, Yugo, Volvo, AMC, Toyota, Lexus, Mercedes, Aston Martin, BMW, etc... you let them sit, the seals dry out (especially crank seals), they leak. Period. There's no way around that. The rest of the car has a lot less wear, but everything else will also leak pretty soon (hello struts/shocks; tires will also be dryrotted before they wear out). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:08 on May 19, 2021 |
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May 19, 2021 17:03
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I'm trying to track down the cause of a misfire on my BRZ. It is only happening on cylinder 1 while the car is idling after it has warmed up, there are no codes/lights or other indication aside from feeling it and the misfire count increasing for that cylinder on my Openflash Tablet (car has a catted header and accompanying tune). No other drivability issues, and if I give enough throttle to hold the RPMs at around 950 or more at idle it doesn't seem to happen. So far I've tried swapping the coils on that side to see if the problem moved with it, but its still happening only with that cylinder. I have a new set of plugs on order, but it will be a couple weekends before I can swap them out. In the meantime is there anything else I should be checking/monitoring? From what I've read once the car is warmed up it is using 100% DI while at idle, so maybe the injector is going bad/dirty? I could waste  on some injector/fuel system cleaner, but it seems the best way would be to pull the injector and clean/reseal it.
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May 20, 2021 02:16
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my 95 impreza wagon does not have a rear sway bar. anyone happen to know if one will bolt on or will I need to do some welding
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May 20, 2021 22:29
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Would STI seats fit in a WRX?
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May 20, 2021 22:52
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net work error posted:Would STI seats fit in a WRX? Yes on general, as long as the seat wiring matches. quote:my 95 impreza wagon does not have a rear sway bar. anyone happen to know if one will bolt on or will I need to do some welding The holes for mounts should be there so bolt on. Also the rear lateral arms should have some mounts for a sway bar link and TBH I thought the wagon had a small bar standard? CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 23:13 on May 20, 2021 |
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May 20, 2021 23:11
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Yes on general, as long as the seat wiring matches. Cool. I've thought better of it now though. Someone was parting out a wrecked STI and maybe getting those seats is not the best idea...
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May 21, 2021 01:17
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Sounds like I am going to need a new clutch on my 2014 WRX. I had brought it to a couple of different mechanics saying it didn't feel right and no one could see anything wrong with it, but it failed on me while in the highway a few days ago. I have the non-STI, so it's a 5 speed. I vaguely remember hearing that some people replace the transmission with the 6 speed from the STI when they replace the clutch, since it's already going to be out, because the 6 speed is more durable. Something I should look into? Alternatively, any better type of 5 speed clutch I should put in? I only had like 35k miles on it, but it was a lot of city driving and sitting in traffic on hills. Also my first manual. I don't do clutch drops or anything like that. Not sure exactly what happened, guess I'll know more when they pull it. Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 23:24 on May 24, 2021 |
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May 24, 2021 23:13
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Did you have it in gear while sitting in traffic on the hill? I'd imagine that a clutch handling a turbo engine doesn't take well to beginners, so that may have to do with it. Unless it has changed recently the 6 speeds have a longer body than the 5 speeds so you'd need the drive shaft replaced and depending on the gearing of the 6 speed you may need the rear differential replaced as well, I don't understand the math that goes into it though. 6 speed transmissions are also significantly more expensive, at least on the used market. Someone else can speak to any Canbus issues, I've never had a car new enough to be concerned about that.
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May 24, 2021 23:52
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How exactly did it fail? Do you mean that you can no longer depress the clutch pedal, or that the clutch no longer transmits power to the transmission, or something else perhaps?
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May 25, 2021 00:05
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Did you have it in gear while sitting in traffic on the hill? I'd imagine that a clutch handling a turbo engine doesn't take well to beginners, so that may have to do with it. I don't think so? I'd usually put it in neutral and hold the brake, put the emergency brake on of it was going to be a minute. You're in Colorado, so yeah, a bunch of trips to Red Rocks. I think I described what happened the first time I ran into issues in this thread, it was coming home from Red Rocks in a particularly slow concert exit. For sure there's been some times where going up has resulted in a bit of clutch smell. I don't _think_ I'm doing anything wrong, but maybe. Thanks for the other info. Naked Bear posted:How exactly did it fail? Do you mean that you can no longer depress the clutch pedal, or that the clutch no longer transmits power to the transmission, or something else perhaps? I dropped down in gear to pass a semi, didn't redline it or anything but accelerated at a safe pace, then like 2-3 miles later it started jumping in RPMs just from accelerating enough to keep up to highway speeds, even in 5th gear. It started to smell like burning brakes or clutch. I found a safe spot to pull over and let it sit for a bit, then when I turned it back on I could shift into gear, but if I let off the clutch it didn't accelerate or stall. Tried all the gears including reverse. Thanks thread!
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May 25, 2021 00:21
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Internet Explorer posted:I dropped down in gear to pass a semi, didn't redline it or anything but accelerated at a safe pace, then like 2-3 miles later it started jumping in RPMs just from accelerating enough to keep up to highway speeds, even in 5th gear. It started to smell like burning brakes or clutch. I found a safe spot to pull over and let it sit for a bit, then when I turned it back on I could shift into gear, but if I let off the clutch it didn't accelerate or stall. Tried all the gears including reverse. Okay, so your clutch is slipping. It's probably the clutch. But does it leave puddles in your driveway/garage? Because a bad rear main seal puking oil can do this too.
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May 25, 2021 00:30
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Motronic posted:Okay, so your clutch is slipping. It's probably the clutch. But does it leave puddles in your driveway/garage? Because a bad rear main seal puking oil can do this too. Not that I've ever noticed and there wasn't a big puddle of liquid where I stopped the car either. When you say "rear seal," what is that exactly and where is it located? [edit: there was no engine temp increase, but I realize that's not as exact for oil pressure as an oil pressure gauge would be.]
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May 25, 2021 00:54
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Internet Explorer posted:When you say "rear seal," what is that exactly and where is it located? Rear MAIN seal. It's where the crankshaft exist the rear of the block. So it holds oil in. If that starts to piddle it can get on the clutch surface. If you're not seeing drips where you park it's probably not an issue.
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May 25, 2021 01:55
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Is the front sway bar different between a 2005 Legacy GT sedan and a GT Limited sedan? I need sway bar bushings and links, and the part # I pull from Alldata (20464AG08A) doesn't work according to the Subaru dealer website. FWIW, I measured the bar and it is a 21mm, which matches with that bushing. I have no idea if a previous owner might have swapped it from the factory one, but it certainly looks as old as the rest of the car.
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May 25, 2021 16:46
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PitViper posted:Is the front sway bar different between a 2005 Legacy GT sedan and a GT Limited sedan? I need sway bar bushings and links, and the part # I pull from Alldata (20464AG08A) doesn't work according to the Subaru dealer website. FWIW, I measured the bar and it is a 21mm, which matches with that bushing. I have no idea if a previous owner might have swapped it from the factory one, but it certainly looks as old as the rest of the car. I'm 99% sure GT vs GT Limited is just things like leather, sun roof and seat control. Identical drivetrain and suspension.
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May 25, 2021 22:57
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So my front bumper cover on my 2015 WRX is pretty close to the end of it's life. It's covered in rock chips and is pretty smashed up from murdering cones. Anyone know the go to for Subaru bumper covers? Is CAPA certified worth it?
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May 26, 2021 02:02
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Splinter posted:I'm 99% sure GT vs GT Limited is just things like leather, sun roof and seat control. Identical drivetrain and suspension. That's what I assumed. But Subaru seems to think the 21mm bar is for all the models except the base model GT. I'll just order the 21mm bushings anyway.
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May 26, 2021 02:25
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The lift gate latch release handle on my Forester XT is sticky as hell so I'm looking to either clean it up or replace it. I also want to add a back-up camera but the best location for it taken up by the latch handle. As a result, I'm thinking about replacing the handle with an electric actuator and fill in the space where the handle was with a mounting surface for the camera mounted in the center and a weather-proof button that will actuate the release actuator. I'm also aware that I should incorporate some kind of manual release that I can actuate from the interior in case the actuator fails. I have two plans of actions. One is to keep the current latch and retrofit a linear actuator (maybe a power lock actuator) to work the release mechanism. Downside to this approach is that I'll need fabricate a mounting feature for the actuator and still need to figure out the manual override. I would also like for the actuator to have a lockout that prevents the actuator from working while the latch is locked which means limit switches and a potential point of failure. On the other hand, the latch mechanism does have features to make operating the latch while locked not an issue as I've come to be familiar with when the current handle constantly getting stuck in the open position. My only concern with not having the lock out is someone repeatedly working the switch or the switch getting stuck closed which will constantly operate the actuator and drain the battery. As for powering the actuator, there is a 12V power socket in the cargo area that I'll probably tap directly off of. The other is to find a latch that has a power lock, power release with the lockout, and manual override that will fit my Forester. I don't know how plug and play these things are but, while I haven't broken out my calipers yet, anecdotally the latch assembly on my '13 Impreza appears to be similar to the '05 Forester. The housing on the Forester does appear to be larger than the Impreza and the mounting angle may be different but I might be able to place a newer latch mechanism into the latch housing for the Forester. I haven't pulled the door card off in the Impreza so I don't know what's inside and if there are additional wiring beside the power lock, power release, and release switch wire that would make this approach unfeasible. EDIT: I think I'm going to go with option 1 since there are kits for remote trunk releases that should work in my application. I also think I can use a relay to act as a lockout by having the signal pins connected to the power lock wires which will control power going to the release switch and solenoid. (That is assuming that the relay acts as a latching relay) That should be a lot less fussy to set up a limit switch that gets actuated by the lock arm to act as a lockout. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 02:11 on May 29, 2021 |
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May 26, 2021 17:38
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I was changing out transmission and differential fluid and the front diff dipstick shows as slightly over full. Could this cause and big problems or is a slight overfill going to be ok?
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May 30, 2021 14:48
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