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I can't seem to find a good answer outside of duct-tape, so figured I'd see if anyone here has any ideas. The seat covers in my miata keep sliding forward off the bottom cushion. There are three inch wide velcro straps that go under the seat cushion to join up with a strip that goes to the back of the cushion, but the movement of getting out of the seat keeps tugging the seat cover forward. Does anyone have a good idea how to secure the seat cover in place? I hate leather seats but I'm starting to think that might be the only alternative for this car and the way I want it to look. e: worth a shot, I'll give it a try later this week. thanks! As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 16:43 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 16:37
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A healthy application of fabric tape might do the trick.
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May 25, 2021 16:40
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Popete posted:Cool thanks for sharing. I'm sure it'll be fine, if Tire Rack was recommending it to me after knowing the size I was getting they can probably handle it just fine. If it works out that might just be how I get tires done going forward, very convenient and costs basically the same as going to a shop.
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May 25, 2021 17:12
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The exhaust manifold of the car I was going to buy was missing a bolt that caused a leak with the usual symptom of a roaring engine. The seller put in a bolt, which made it better but didn't stop the leak completely (the engine sound isn't perfect and I can still feel the leak when I put my hand down there). How big of a deal is this? I should be able to just replace a gasket or get a better fitting bolt if necessary, shouldn't I?
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May 25, 2021 20:12
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How would one figure out the correct distance from valves/center of cylinder to the butterfly valve of a ITB? Some s65 ITB (52mm) might have fallen into my lap. might do something stupid to the extra 2zzge I have sitting around. Staged injectors? Launch control? sheeeeeit. I have found calculators for ITB size, runner length, runner cross-section. Not where to put the butterfly valve in the runner. Stock 2zz 50hp per cylinder, 6800rpm peak torque, redline ~8.2k. Stock s65 50hp per cylinder, 3400rpm peak torque, 8.3k redline For reference, calculations on the 2zzge cylinder bore. 82mm cylinder stroke. 85mm cylinders. 4 cm^3 1795 target rpm 6800 (stock 2zz torque peak) Intake Duration 292 Ideal runner lenght, 1st & 2nd resonance distances 475mm, 236mm ~18.7", 9.35" Ideal Runner Diameter 41.65 mm, ~1.6" Basically, I want to design a runner to maximize stuff but I am dumb as poo poo. I have researched some of the other things to consider. Like shape. Having draft to build velocity to a smaller diameter that goes into a parallel section for atomization/uniform air, small resonance relief on top of valve. I would also appreciate any info on stuff I was to stupid to consider. no lube so what fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 20:30
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NotNut posted:The exhaust manifold of the car I was going to buy was missing a bolt that caused a leak with the usual symptom of a roaring engine. The seller put in a bolt, which made it better but didn't stop the leak completely (the engine sound isn't perfect and I can still feel the leak when I put my hand down there). How big of a deal is this? I should be able to just replace a gasket or get a better fitting bolt if necessary, shouldn't I? If you have to ask this question you should probably not be buying a car with an exhaust leak, which I have to assume is only one of many things wrong with it. You should also specify useful information like year/make/model an in this case, which engine it has in it. Regardless to the answer to those questions it's overwhelmingly unlikely that the manifold is supposed be held on with bolts, and rather should have studs and nuts. The newer the car the mor likely this is a nightmare of a job, especially for someone without a proper shop and lift. Otherwise one would imagine the seller would already have done this job before trying to sell it.
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May 25, 2021 20:45
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no lube so what posted:How would one figure out the correct distance from valves/center of cylinder to the butterfly valve of a ITB? S65 ITBs are a nice design to retrofit to things because you can respace them pretty easily and are sized reasonably. So we're at one of those things where "optimum" from theory falls down to constraints you're stuck with; first off not exactly sure what calculations you were using to arrive at runner length; a standardish sort of guideline for boosting resonance at 6800ish RPM is around 15" (380mm) from valve to trumpet horn to catch the 2nd harmonic, but plus or minus a bit isn't going to kill things too much. In the real world it's hard to package that and an air box of adequate size; I'd rather sacrifice runner length, pick up the 3rd harmonic at 11"ish (280mm) and have an adequately sized airbox than have longer runners and airbox issues. Also not sure where you got the runner diameter - frankly that's just kind of a "whatever it ends up to mate the ITB to the head in the least distance" thing, I can pretty much guarantee the port cross-section of the 2ZZ is bigger than that. For throttle response you want the butterflies as close as practical to the head so as to have the least throttled volume, and smooth the transition from the ITB exit shape to the port entrance shape as well as you can. This is all a bit "rules of thumb and packaging" so what I'd do in practice is design it so that trumpets/airbox clamps onto the ITBs so you can try things if the first guess doesn't turn out right.
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May 25, 2021 21:27
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mekilljoydammit posted:S65 ITBs are a nice design to retrofit to things because you can respace them pretty easily and are sized reasonably. Cool. Sounds practical. I used an online calculator. The 2zz cross port section is ~2.1"x1.475" oval/rounded square. Like you figured. Also looking at the s65 trumpets in the plenum, they look pretty short. The packaging would be tight. The intake is up against a fire wall. I couldn't have them going straight out or I wold have to cut the fire wall, like this guy  Clearance is going to be a bitch. I am going to have to bend stuff downward. Either trumpets bent or pre ITB runner bent. Then plenum (what % of displacement?) ducted to passanger side vent. There is enough clearance that people have fit the greddy celica supercharger kit in the spyder without having to alter the firewall, but the standard supercharger found on the lotus cannot fit without altering the firewall. For $150 I might just get the ITB and see what's up.
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May 26, 2021 00:20
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no lube so what posted:Cool. Sounds practical. Don't forget this is "distance from valve to trumpet" - so the runner length in the head helps. FWIW the S65 manifold-side cross section is about 2.1"x1.3"ish, and is about 4.25" long from manifold side to where the trumpets would seat... so ballpark, 2.5" of runner in the head, plus 4.25" of length in the TB, maybe an inch to join the head to TB, and you're at 3-4" for trumpet length. I got a set of S65 bodies to figure out some stuff, I can take measurements if you want. All this stuff gets to "constrained optimum" though; I'm not sure how you'd get this to fit into a ZZW30 without cutting the firewall. Really would be easier if it were flipped like the S motors.
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May 26, 2021 04:06
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tactlessbastard posted:Went out to get pictures and dry her out just now. The trunk liner was merely damp but when I removed it there was a good 1/4" of water in it Took a look immediately after driving home from work in the rain last night, it's coming in from under this plastic trim at the front of the trunk. I'll remove those trim pieces for further exploration this weekend, but I checked the seal that fits around the base of the canvas and it seems to be in good condition, no debris interfering with the junction.  This is frustrating because the seller was like 'no leaks' and for the first 4 months, no leaks, and now it's catastrophically leaking out of nowhere. Sigh. At least it isn't into the cabin.
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May 26, 2021 15:43
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tactlessbastard posted:Took a look immediately after driving home from work in the rain last night, it's coming in from under this plastic trim at the front of the trunk. Did you have a chance to inspect the drains? Could have gotten plugged up from autumn debris and started leaking. Something like this: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=389787
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May 26, 2021 18:24
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iv46vi posted:Did you have a chance to inspect the drains? Could have gotten plugged up from autumn debris and started leaking. Thanks, I'll get me a trombone snake at first opportunity
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May 26, 2021 19:08
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Is there a newbie car enthusiast thread? The big boy job I got last year is starting to give me the (over)confidence I need to look at sporty and/or legitimately hot cars and destroying their warranties with a tune as soon as I'm tempted I want a '22 BRZ or a FoRS or whatever the heck Toyota is going to try and spit out as a GR Corolla next year. Miata RF with the top never down is also a consideration. gently caress the sun Alternative northern Continental US weather/SHTF hellscape option: Outback Wilderness trim or other safari'd dumb thing that isn't a Porsche. (I'm not very good at planning trips to be during good weather) I don't have feelings one way or another about electrics. gently caress Elon and the earth TBH For insurance purposes, I'm a 33 and a guy and my skill at driving is probably middling at best. I can't drive stick because I never hung out with the cool kids. I never bothered to spend the effort to change my own oil on my non-hot Fiesta. Timetable for when I can actually afford the car is fluctuating because I am also spending used car prices on my gun hobby insanity and gacha games that I never should have let myself into Any suggestions on which of the above I should pick? Edit: I forgot to make it clear that i want an autocrossing/tracking daily driver as my only car and and definitely not what I have right now. I'll move over to the car buying thread. Sidesaddle Cavalry fucked around with this message at 00:03 on May 27, 2021 |
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May 26, 2021 19:58
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Nomyth posted:Is there a newbie car enthusiast thread? This is the right place for your newbie questions. There is, however, a thread for car buying questions.
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May 26, 2021 21:06
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Why might my (92 ram) van suddenly develop a stuck caliper on the freeway? Last time this happened I had been flogging the brakes down a steep BLM road on nearly dead pads, so it was entirely my fault, but this was flat rear end ground on 10 month old pads E: it's the same caliper though. After the last incident, I changed the pads and haven't had any issues until now Javid fucked around with this message at 00:56 on May 27, 2021 |
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May 27, 2021 00:53
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Javid posted:Why might my (92 ram) van suddenly develop a stuck caliper on the freeway? Last time this happened I had been flogging the brakes down a steep BLM road on nearly dead pads, so it was entirely my fault, but this was flat rear end ground on 10 month old pads To be clear, you changed the pads but not the caliper?
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May 27, 2021 01:02
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Yes. The pads were definitely hosed going into that drive, but once the wheel cooled off the caliper retracted and didn't cause any more problems
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May 27, 2021 01:07
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I want to get some bodywork done on my Miata and I'm a bit surprised how cheap the quote I got was from the local body shop. There is a big rear end dent in the rear fender and because the paint is cracked and the panel creased they said they are going to need to pull it out and do some filler and repaint the entire driver side of the car (so the paint matches), all for like $950. This shop seems to mostly do insurance work for normal late model cars actually worth something, so I am assuming their work is fine. But the price is really throwing me off. Seems low for all the work they described. Does that seem reasonable? Is there a way to figure out if a body shop actually does good work? Are they going to do a poo poo job for me because I'm not a big client like an insurance company?
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May 27, 2021 01:34
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I was quoted $400 by two places to do basically that for a bumper, so seems reasonable?
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May 27, 2021 01:41
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Javid posted:Yes. The pads were definitely hosed going into that drive, but once the wheel cooled off the caliper retracted and didn't cause any more problems My guess is the piston is binding when hot. If you can, pull the piston out, sand it down, lube it up liberally, and see if that improves things. It should slide around smoothly, otherwise you might need to replace the caliper.
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May 27, 2021 01:50
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GOD IS BED posted:My guess is the piston is binding when hot. If you can, pull the piston out, sand it down, lube it up liberally, and see if that improves things. It should slide around smoothly, otherwise you might need to replace the caliper. I think it's much more likely the slider pins need replacing/lubrication but I guess it could be the piston, that would be wild.
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May 27, 2021 02:00
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That's what I meant, the slider pins. Been a while since I messed with my brakes.
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May 27, 2021 02:08
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Uthor posted:I was quoted $400 by two places to do basically that for a bumper, so seems reasonable? Just hard to imagine how bodywork and spraying half the car could be $950. Maybe I am just used to cost disease in contractors working on your house, where every time you sneeze it's another two grand.
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May 27, 2021 03:15
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What car is this?
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May 27, 2021 19:27
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Don't abandon the possibility of learning stick shift late. It's not hard, I promise, and it makes spirited driving much more engaging when engagement is what you want. I'm not one of those people who's all about driving purity or some poo poo - go auto if that's what you want, I'm just saying don't be intimidated from trying it if you dont' know how to shift yet. This is especially important if you're considering the BRZ - it's not that the autobox is bad (Lexus derived IIRC) - it's just that it's a rewarding vehicle to drive with a manual. Another vehicle I'd be considering is the new 400Z - we don't have much official yet but it's expected to be a twin turbo V6 like the one you get in high-spec Infinitis which would put horsepower at around 400. The styling isn't for everybody but I think it looks great.  There's a lot of cynicism out there for Nissan these days given the bulk of their current offerings (and garbage CVTs) but I (and others) think you should keep the 400 in mind. if I were never going to put the top down I'd take a 400Z over a Miata but then again you should not take my opinions very seriously - my reliable car is a 2000 Jaguar.
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May 27, 2021 20:37
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I took my 13 Corolla (odom 85k) to a service center for wheel alignment* and they recommended me a whole bunch of poo poo: "coolant flush, replace transmission fluid, fuel injection, throttle body service, AC refresh"... I can just ignore all that right? Is any of that something I should do eventually? The car drives fine rn *e: because my usual mechanic doesn't have the wheel alignment machine(?) The Klowner fucked around with this message at 20:42 on May 27, 2021 |
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May 27, 2021 20:40
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midge posted:What car is this? 48 dodge [business] coupe. https://barnfinds.com/business-1948-dodge-business-coupe/ https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/a-deluxe-restoration-1948-dodge-business-coupe-2
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May 27, 2021 20:42
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The Klowner posted:I took my 13 Corolla (odom 85k) to a service center for wheel alignment* and they recommended me a whole bunch of poo poo: "coolant flush, replace transmission fluid, fuel injection, throttle body service, AC refresh"... I can just ignore all that right? Is any of that something I should do eventually? The car drives fine rn The coolant flush and transmission fluid need to be done periodically. Your manual will tell you how often. The rest: are you having issues with those systems?
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May 27, 2021 20:49
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midge posted:What car is this? Why that looks like a 1946-ish Dodge Coupe to me (but I can only find decent pictures of 4-doors)   e: beaten
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May 27, 2021 20:59
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The Klowner posted:I took my 13 Corolla (odom 85k) to a service center for wheel alignment* and they recommended me a whole bunch of poo poo: "coolant flush, replace transmission fluid, fuel injection, throttle body service, AC refresh"... I can just ignore all that right? Is any of that something I should do eventually? The car drives fine rn In short: yes. It's all a fishing expidition. Your transmission fluid should be checked periodically for leaks or burning, and changed only if it's really low AND burnt.
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May 27, 2021 22:54
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Our 2010 Mustang has chipping / bubbling paint at the front edge of the hood. The hood itself seems fine, but it’s starting to look ugly. How would that normally be fixed?
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May 27, 2021 23:00
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smackfu posted:Our 2010 Mustang has chipping / bubbling paint at the front edge of the hood. The hood itself seems fine, but it’s starting to look ugly. How would that normally be fixed? It's a common issue on them, the aluminum begins to corrode underneath. The spot needs to be taken down to bare metal , the corrosion cleaned up, and the spot body worked and painted. depending on your paint color/your skill/expected level of result, you could do it yourself with some sandpaper, glazing putty and rattle cans for about $50. A body shop repair could be anywhere from $200-$1000 depending on the paint color and your location.
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May 27, 2021 23:08
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Thanks! That seems reasonable. It’s black which is hopefully the cheapest color?
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May 27, 2021 23:11
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smackfu posted:Thanks! That seems reasonable. It’s black which is hopefully the cheapest color? Easier than metallics, but harder to make look perfect. With a regular gloss color you also have the option of covering the leading edge of the hood with black vinyl like you would apply a clear bra after body work and have it look decent. Powershift fucked around with this message at 23:19 on May 27, 2021 |
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May 27, 2021 23:16
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Is there a website that is like TrueCar used to be? I am beginning the process of trying to price things out, but TrueCar seems like they are now in the car sales business and not as good as I remember.
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May 28, 2021 00:08
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2021 Subaru Ascent, bought new in February, 3500 miles on it. Sat in the driveway for 24 hours. Started it today, steering system light comes on, eyesight off warning comes on, RAB off warning comes on, dash alternates between those warnings continuously. I got no steering and am wary of who knows what else is on the fritz. What the gently caress. I can post a video of what it does on startup if that’s useful. I call the dealer, operator suggests this shouldn’t happen. No poo poo! She says I should bring it in. I live out of town and ask her if I should really be going for a 30 minute drive with it like this, which is met with silence until her brain kicks back into gear. So she has me call the 24 hour number stuck to the window and request a tow. Two questions: 1) I assume it’s probably okay to drive like this? I can still steer it as long as I’m rolling, there’s just no power steering. I could take back roads to the dealer, but it still seems sketch, like maybe I’d be exacerbating whatever is wrong. I assume in this condition I’m supposed to just drive far enough to get to safety. 2) What the hell? Manual suggested this sort of thing could be from the pump overheating but it was literally off for a day. Parked with the wheels straight. Also that wouldn’t explain the eyesight and RAB disablement. I am so fired up right now. e: lol this has been “processing request” for two hours, car’s not going anywhere today 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:20 on May 28, 2021 |
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May 28, 2021 01:00
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Have you taken a good look under the hood? Sounds like squirrels got in and ate a bunch of wires. source: I have had 4 vehicles wrecked by squirrels at work over the past decade, most recently 2 weeks ago
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May 28, 2021 01:25
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I looked and saw no sign of animal intrusion. e: I checked again, got in there good with a super bright flashlight. Nothing, it’s beautiful in there. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 02:01 on May 28, 2021 |
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May 28, 2021 01:56
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1994 Subaru SVX, I'm getting a squeaking from the front left that varies with wheel speed and goes away on braking. I thought it was the brakes, but replaced them today and it's still happening.When I pulled the old outer pad the backing plate/shim had been dislodged and was rubbing against the center of the rotor, wearing it away. I thought that was the cause of the noise, but I guess not. Used the old caliper, but lubed the slide bolt/pin. All of the bracket/shim things between the side of the pad and the caliper got replaced, I scrubbed some of the worse oxidation off the hub and caliper housing with brake cleaner and a wire brush, new pads, new rotors, after bedding them in I'm not getting any braking noise. Any ideas what to look for? It started after replacing the strut, I'm wondering if I deformed the rotor backing sheet metal but I didn't see anywhere it would be interfering with the rotor.
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May 28, 2021 03:12
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Bad Munki posted:2021 Subaru Ascent, bought new in February, 3500 miles on it. Don't drive the car like this. From searching around, I found some reports of people getting their whole steering rack replaced for this. I'm not sure if that's really what the problem is though.
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May 28, 2021 03:50
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