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 Finished the last two plasmagunners while on a work call today. Decided to take a photo of the Valour Korp I've painted. My only complaint is the banner. I didn't know what to paint it and was feeling pretty lazy, and the Flesh Tearers Red I used elsewhere seemed like a good fit but came out remarkably flat since the folds of the fabric are vertical rather than horizontal. I may just repaint the banner doing my best to avoid overspray on the soldier itself, but idk
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May 27, 2021 19:36
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Looks awesome! Maybe do some orange-y/red highlighting onto the banner to make it pop?
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May 27, 2021 20:23
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thanks to whoever mentioned pre-shading. Its something i've never done and i gave these german casualties a pretty heavy drybrush in white. i think it will make a pretty big difference once color is added.
punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 00:49 on May 28, 2021 |
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May 27, 2021 23:37
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punishedkissinger posted:thanks to whoever mentioned pre-shading. Its something i've never done and i gave these german casualties a pretty heavy drybrush in white. i think it will make a pretty big difference once color is added. "They died mid-cheer."
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May 28, 2021 02:52
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Kylaer posted:I painted my first model ever yesterday and it looks godawful, as might be expected. I used a mixture of Vallejo Model Color metallics, which seem really nice, and Reaper Master Series flat colors, which, uhh, don't. Granted that's probably my lack of talent speaking, but there definitely seemed to be a difference in the ease of use of the two brands in my totally inexperienced eyes. The Vallejo paint seemed to have solid coverage with only one coat over the primer, whereas the Reaper paint required multiple coats and still didn't look clean. Reaper MSP are great, you just have to shake the everliving gently caress out of them Also buy a vortex mixer
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May 28, 2021 02:54
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Having a really annoying glue problem lately and for some reason it's only been with Marvel Crisis Protocol miniatures. I've painted a whole trove of minis, mostly Warhammer stuff, and if I glue a model to a base, they are solid as a rock---they will not come off and they're stuck on there pretty firmly. However, as of late if I jostle a Marvel mini a little bit, they snap right off like the glue is just some brittle poo poo. No idea why this is happening to all of them---all the miniatures are on the same shelf. They are next to a closed window, there isn't anything environmental happening, and I've used the same glue for all the models (Tamiya Extra Thin for most, Testors for a few others, especially Marvel ones if they snapped off.) Idk if this is because the plastic quality of Marvel minis is crappier or if there's something wrong with the base. Anyone have any thoughts? I've had zero instances of this happening with GW products.
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May 28, 2021 04:38
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Silhouette posted:Also buy a vortex mixer So I’m just getting into the hobby too and I’ve seen this mentioned in a few places. Is there a recommended one that people like that’s not too expensive? Seems like that and an airbrush could be good investments since I’m really enjoying it so far.
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May 28, 2021 04:39
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DLC Inc posted:Having a really annoying glue problem lately and for some reason it's only been with Marvel Crisis Protocol miniatures. Ah ok yeah I had a feeling this would happen when attaching models to bases. I only ever used CA glue up until a few days ago when I decided to use some tamiya extra thin to attach some marines to their bases in the hopes that it would be an easy, secure method. Normally I pin models to the base and use CA glue. This stuff works my melting the plastics together, but since you're welding Plastic A to Plastic B the glue will melt them differently and won't work as cleanly as when gluing the same type of plastic together. I did run into an issue with the first model where it didn't secure properly enough so I just coated the whole sole in glue and pressed down firmly for a few seconds to secure it. IDK what the marvel models are like, but worst case scenario just use CA glue or pin and use the plastic cement.
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May 28, 2021 04:55
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Spanish Manlove posted:This stuff works my melting the plastics together, but since you're welding Plastic A to Plastic B the glue will melt them differently and won't work as cleanly as when gluing the same type of plastic together. I did run into an issue with the first model where it didn't secure properly enough so I just coated the whole sole in glue and pressed down firmly for a few seconds to secure it. Good point, I'll use that stuff instead, though it's still curious how it has worked fine with GW models and not so much with Marvel CP. To be fair, the bases for Marvel stuff are def a very different plastic material than the ones I get with Warhammer stuff---that could be part of the problem.
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May 28, 2021 05:02
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DLC Inc posted:Good point, I'll use that stuff instead, though it's still curious how it has worked fine with GW models and not so much with Marvel CP. To be fair, the bases for Marvel stuff are def a very different plastic material than the ones I get with Warhammer stuff---that could be part of the problem. GW bases and GW models are both made from the same polystyrene so the bond together with polystyrene cement, which is what Tamaya extra thin and testors are. If the Marvel minis or the bases are not made of polystyrene than they won't bond with cement, you'll need to use a real glue like CA or gorilla glue.
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May 28, 2021 05:21
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Bucnasti posted:GW bases and GW models are both made from the same polystyrene so the bond together with polystyrene cement, which is what Tamaya extra thin and testors are. the minis themselves are cited as being polystyrene, which makes sense---never had trouble attaching parts ever. The bases might not be. Either way I'll certainly give the CA a shot since the other two glues have had trouble on only these bases.
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May 28, 2021 06:06
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   In the process of repainting my crons for the 3rd time. I have a really hard time finding a color scheme that looks good, isn't to detailed and still doesn't make me look like a lazy rear end. I am not a talented painter but I can maybe at least pick a color palette that looks pleasing.
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May 28, 2021 07:55
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Silhouette posted:Reaper MSP are great, you just have to shake the everliving gently caress out of them I'm going to have to paint a lot of things to make all this upfront equipment investment worth it. Guess some of my friends may be the recipients of gifts of terribly-painted nerd stuff in the near future, but the upshot is I'll have people to play against 
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May 28, 2021 14:54
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Trying to step up my photo game with a backdrop made from a box. I have a bunch of construction paper sheets somewhere, I should try that one day.   This guy is a tester for a Hammer/Shield vanguard vet squad. I'm really digging the shields and shoulderpads from kromlech, and I think that the Champions of Fenris heraldry on the shoulders works a lot better on the shoulder color as it stands more than the all black ones. The icy hammer is just VMC magnesium, Contrast aethermatic blue, then drybrush p3 frostbite. The most annoying part of painting marines is panel lining. I'm using Drakenhopf Nightshade to do it but it's tricky to get a nice dark line without much spillover that needs to be tidied up. I want to try some tamiya panel liner but I have a feeling that my OCD will still need to go through and tidy it up to get the crisp lines in the shadows that only I notice or care about.
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May 28, 2021 15:00
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Vidmaster posted:So I’m just getting into the hobby too and I’ve seen this mentioned in a few places. Is there a recommended one that people like that’s not too expensive? Seems like that and an airbrush could be good investments since I’m really enjoying it so far. Seconding the question, all I see are lab-certified equipment which I'd assume instantly makes it 5x more expensive for negligible modeling-related benefit.
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May 28, 2021 15:12
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Vidmaster posted:So I’m just getting into the hobby too and I’ve seen this mentioned in a few places. Is there a recommended one that people like that’s not too expensive? Seems like that and an airbrush could be good investments since I’m really enjoying it so far. This is the one I have and it's not too bad. https://www.amazon.com/Pigment-Shaking-Machine-Lacquer-regulations/dp/B08VW4Q423/
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May 28, 2021 15:19
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I got the lab mini (the white one with the square-ish base) when it was on sale on Amazon for about half price. It's pretty ok, about the only thing it can't handle in a few seconds is GW Auric Armor which needs several minutes and multiple angle changes as well as manual shaking, it separates out really badly. I've got three agitator beads in there, and the biggest trick is freeing them from the clumps. TLDR: that's why I replaced most of my golds with stormhost silver and an overbrush of contrast snakebite leather. 
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May 28, 2021 15:48
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PoptartsNinja posted:I got the lab mini (the white one with the square-ish base) when it was on sale on Amazon for about half price. It's pretty ok, about the only thing it can't handle in a few seconds is GW Auric Armor which needs several minutes and multiple angle changes as well as manual shaking, it separates out really badly. I've got three agitator beads in there, and the biggest trick is freeing them from the clumps. I've replaced all my golds with scale75 or p3 and haven't looked back since. Just wish that the p3 stuff was also in dropper bottles.
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May 28, 2021 15:51
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Two Beans posted:This is the one I have and it's not too bad. I got the exact same one for $20 on AliExpress, received it within a week. And I won't lie, it's awesome. Just 5-10 secs and you get a perfectly even paint, it's amazing. It's also smaller than I imagined.
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May 28, 2021 16:01
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So after watching one of the latest Hobby Cheating videos, I kinda want to try out using the Zorn palette on some figures. Thing is, I know I don't have the paints Vince used in the video, and at best my local hobby stores will carry only GW products, so I was wondering if anyone has figured out a good equivalent to the four paints used in the palette (yellow ochre, vermilion/cadmium red, ivory black and titanium white). Edit: also, and this is more an art and color theory question than a painting question, but considering the point of the Zorn palette in the first place is to have desaturated yellow, a blue-ish black and a bright red, would it make sense to change the colors around to have the same desaturated yellow, but a red-ish black and a bright blue instead? Aniodia fucked around with this message at 04:33 on May 29, 2021 |
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May 28, 2021 17:37
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I'm reading conflicting information on the topic of stripping paint from plastic models. If I use Simple Green, on GW plastic models held together with superglue, will it soften or otherwise damage the plastic? Will it break the superglue?
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May 28, 2021 17:46
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Kylaer posted:I'm reading conflicting information on the topic of stripping paint from plastic models. If I use Simple Green, on GW plastic models held together with superglue, will it soften or otherwise damage the plastic? Will it break the superglue? I have left plastic models in Simple Green for weeks and it did barely anything to the paint, let alone the plastic. A lot of cleaners will eventually dissolve superglue but they do it much more slowly than they do paint; I use Super Clean, which will strip a metal mini bare like new in 24 hours and get a plastic mini to "eh, good enough" in a similar time frame, and while a few of the models lost a limb or two the super glue mostly held together, and the plastic was unharmed. It's only when you start getting into acetone / mineral spirits / turpentine that you have to watch out for damaging plastic, in my experience -- these can be extremely effective if they're concentrated enough but imo they're not worth the trouble. Tuxedo Catfish fucked around with this message at 18:11 on May 28, 2021 |
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May 28, 2021 18:07
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Go to the dollar store and get the purple bottles of LA’s totally awesome cleaner (or something like that), that stuff strips the hell off model paint.
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May 28, 2021 22:46
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Vortex mixers can be had for around $20-30, and are an invaluable investment if your other hobbies include saving time or having working wrists when you're 40 https://www.ebay.com/itm/3933433326...0.c100930.m5375
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May 28, 2021 23:20
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Silhouette posted:Vortex mixers can be had for around $20-30, and are an invaluable investment if your other hobbies include saving time or having working wrists when you're 40 I have questions about your shaking technique.
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May 28, 2021 23:36
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 Finished another blob of guardsmen. These took me about 20 minutes each, longer than the plasmagunners since the rifles are a bit more detailed and finicky. Here's the full guide if people want it! 
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May 29, 2021 00:06
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sassassin posted:I have questions about your shaking technique. vigorous and extended
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May 29, 2021 00:29
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I got a vortex mixer to protect my shite elbows.
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May 29, 2021 00:46
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Simple Green overnight is an easy reset with a toothbrush the next day but I haven't tried it on a fully varnished model
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May 29, 2021 02:08
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Verisimilidude posted:
Ignoring the obvious quality of the technique I think they look a bit weird with such overpoweringly bright stonewash jackets and drab everything else. The plasma squad worked much better because you had that extreme blue drawing the eye.
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May 29, 2021 02:13
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Because it's mini-related I think it's fine to post here that Vince Venturella and Uncle "Tabletop Minions" Atom released a "mini-agnostic" skirmish game called Reign in Hell. TT Minions' video is, of course producted better than Vince's so here it is. I bought the PDF and it seems quite fun, I'll try it tonight with the missus.Verisimilidude posted:
Dude, I found your Instagram and you're putting out some seriously good work.
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May 29, 2021 08:36
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Someone in this thread mentioned pre-shading with contrast paints. What do you mean? I've noticed that if I paint some white onto a model's edges and then contrast it, it turns out a different(and usually nicer) color.
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May 29, 2021 12:02
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TheDiceMustRoll posted:Someone in this thread mentioned pre-shading with contrast paints. What do you mean? I've noticed that if I paint some white onto a model's edges and then contrast it, it turns out a different(and usually nicer) color. Yeah, that's what they're talking about. Usually you use either an airbrush, or a spray can, of white over an already black primed model (google zenithal highlighting to see how it looks). You can also dry-brush the white over black, but it's a little more tricky to get right. When you do that, and you use your transparent and semi-transparent paints (most contrasts and inks and washes), the model will already have shadows underneath your paint layer. So recesses will automatically be darker, as they're supposed to be, removing (most of) the need to paint shadows and so on.
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May 29, 2021 12:11
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It's also helpful with more opaque paints, as you'll have a better idea where the highlights and shadows should fall naturally if you choose to paint them traditionally. It's a great way to prime!
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May 29, 2021 13:39
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Its also worth mentioning you dont need to zenithal with black and white; I find that combination little harsh for some of the less strongly pigmented contrast paints (skin tones for example), so I tend to go with a brown and ivory (or dark brown and sand/tan), particularly on models with a lot of exposed skin I'm planning on using contrasts on. If I'm feeling real fancy I'll prime with black from underneath, brown or tan from straight on, then ivory or white from above, but tbh I think theres limited advantage to that, I'm probably just amusing myself more than improving the final effect.
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May 29, 2021 13:50
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Yeah, I like black for the initial undercoat, but straight up white can be harsh for the highlighting. I only have black, white and grey primer sprays and no airbrush, so I do the black/(grey)/white zenithal highlight, but mellow out the white with a light sand drybrush, using a cheap makeup brush, going strictly top to bottom with very little paint on the brush. Pretty much Dana Howl's method for airbrush-less painting. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 14:07 on May 29, 2021 |
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May 29, 2021 14:05
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I'm also in the "don't have an airbrush, crib from Dana Howl" crew, but I even simplify it a bit: my preshading is just prime (I use gray seer but really white would be fine) -> all over wash with agrax earthshade / reikland flesh shade / nuln oil / some mix of those or similar wash -> pretty heavy drybrush with pure white using a dollar store makeup brush. The white comes out dustier than you'd get with an airbrush zenithal, but the contrasts do a good job of smoothing that over. The most important thing is establishing shadows, really.
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May 29, 2021 14:17
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the softer your brush and the less paint you put on it, the less chalky your drybrushing ends up. its almost 100% a function of how much time you’re willing to spend painstakingly brushing on tiny amounts of paint over and over again
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May 29, 2021 14:22
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KozmoNaut posted:Yeah, I like black for the initial undercoat, but straight up white can be harsh for the highlighting. I only have black, white and grey primer sprays and no airbrush, so I do the black/(grey)/white zenithal highlight, but mellow out the white with a light sand drybrush, using a cheap makeup brush, going strictly top to bottom with very little paint on the brush. I dont have an airbrush either, but I got a can of mushroom brown spray paint leftover from undercoating some mdf adobe buildings a while back, and a can of desert camouflage spray paint I picked up while I was getting some spray varnish in halfords, and assorted white/off white spray cans from whereever and they work fine for a zenithal!
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May 29, 2021 15:48
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    Painted this Valour Korps Abhuman as a test model. Going to finish the other two hopefully today!
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May 29, 2021 17:42
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