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AFewBricksShy posted:Hi. Pioneer double DIN without an lcd colour display are reasonably priced and full featured Going to a CarPlay unit will double the price, wireless CarPlay add on an extra 100-200
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May 21, 2021 14:10
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A used Sony AX 100/200/1000/etc should be around $200 and give you Carplay and not be sketchy like one of those cheap Android units
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May 21, 2021 14:42
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I bought one of these and it works fine. Dimmer works, reverse camera works, CarPlay works well, interface isn’t too annoying. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08LR81FP1/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You certainly get what you pay for screen and hardware-quality wise but it seems to work much better than I’d expect. I’m pleased for what I paid. Also, they seem to be sold by a bunch of different sellers under different names, so just get the cheapest. Amazon will obviously take care of any DOA stuff if you buy it Prime.
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May 21, 2021 14:52
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I mentioned in the AI thread, I have a used JVC KW-M730BT from my old car. I'd need to take off the adapter harness (non-permanent attachment with screw connectors) and I need to check if there's any scratches. I should have everything that came with it and the box. I can do something in the $200 range, I think. If you're interested, I can take photos and make a thread in the Mart.
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May 21, 2021 15:03
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Uthor posted:I mentioned in the AI thread, I have a used JVC KW-M730BT from my old car. I'd need to take off the adapter harness (non-permanent attachment with screw connectors) and I need to check if there's any scratches. I should have everything that came with it and the box. definitely. you don't have pm's or I'd take it to there but yeah I'm in.
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May 21, 2021 15:58
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AFewBricksShy posted:definitely. you don't have pm's or I'd take it to there but yeah I'm in. Gimme a bit to clean everything up and make a post.
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May 21, 2021 17:00
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AFewBricksShy posted:definitely. you don't have pm's or I'd take it to there but yeah I'm in. I think this is pretty thorough, but ask me any questions you may have. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3968342
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May 21, 2021 18:27
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This may be off topic, this is the closest megathread I can find, but how do we feel about FordPass? I'm thinking of buying a Ford, and having never owned a car new enough to have anything more complex than a CD changer, I'm casting a wary eye on the FordPass suite of "connected services". I work with internet connected things for a living, and based on that experience I try my best not to let proprietary internet [of things] connectivity into my life any more than is necessary. The idea of FordPass Connect, for example, is just about my worst nightmare. A permanently installed 4G internet connection you can unlock the car over? No thanks. So, assuming I'm not going to buy that particularly optional extra, do you know how intrusive the base level is? Ford's marketing material blurs the lines between the phone app and the services and the car's connectivity, so I'm having trouble figuring out what's what. FordPass is the phone app, Ford SYNC is the entertainment system hookup, FordPass Connect is the 4G modem, FordPass Pro is another app, something about commercial vehicles (which is what I'm buying), but not the 4G modem, but does have remote unlocking, remote start, pings the cloud with metrics? I'm very confused. Please save me from getting my car hacked. Oh, also, apparently a £500 option is to get a "read only" interface to the CAN bus. Now I've never had a car with a CAN, but I would've hoped there'd be a more direct way to hook into it yourself?
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May 22, 2021 22:15
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I don't have all those answers but gently caress man, gently caress car subscriptions ever. Most of the time they cause more issues than they solve. And lately auto industry is "feeling out" how receptive consumers are to subscription based features, so the more people "opt in" to whatever bullshit proprietary ecosystem the manufacturer made up this year, the more the market "demands" paying for services that used to be free like stereo features. CANBUS I thought is basically OBDII read access, but I'll have to double check. (looks like basically any £20 +VAT OBD2 tool will get you their £500 "option") FordPass is the monitor and control app. FordPass Pro is the more in depth M&C app with fleet management. Both can gather some limited information via Ford SYNC with no subscription/additional HW. Both will need the FordPass Connect and a subscription to use all available features. You need the modem to do any remote stuff. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 23:33 on May 22, 2021 |
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May 22, 2021 23:09
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Wasabi the J posted:You need the modem to do any remote stuff. OK cool, that's the key part for me. Hopefully the Ford SYNC part isn't too leaky.
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May 22, 2021 23:40
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Do they make a Bluetooth fm transmitter that runs on much lower frequencies than the ones I’ve tried? All my cars are JDM and the radio only goes UP to 90. But as low as 76. If I could get something around 80-85 would be great. I just get a lot of interference locally running at 90 bc of the college station
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May 24, 2021 04:55
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everdave posted:Do they make a Bluetooth fm transmitter that runs on much lower frequencies than the ones I’ve tried? You can get converters that change the radios frequencies in between the antenna and the radio. So the radio thinks it's on 90 but it's really 108 or whatever.
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May 24, 2021 07:25
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everdave posted:Do they make a Bluetooth fm transmitter that runs on much lower frequencies than the ones I’ve tried? How about ordering one from Japan? https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Trans...f_rd_i=85426051
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May 24, 2021 15:42
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I rented a VW Atlas for a trip last week, and the wireless Android Auto is a gamechanger for me. I would love to get my phone out of my cupholder for directions, and the Waze map on my main screen with Spotify chugging alongside. I have a 2019 Camry hybrid SE. Despite the promises of the salesman (lol) they have not added any form of Android Auto integration to my car's infotainment system via updates. I am no stranger to installing car stereos, and I was a Pioneer-only guy for the last 2 decades. I don't feel like spending $1300 for what's available at Crutchfield, so I figured I'd ask the Goons what they see. Is a CHIMICHURRI brand or whatever just fine nowadays? Is there a better option for using my car's display but running something else in the background? Thanks for y'alls time.
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May 24, 2021 19:26
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Uthor posted:I think this is pretty thorough, but ask me any questions you may have.   Thank you, the install went off without a hitch.
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May 31, 2021 15:18
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Nice. I never got around to sticking a backup camera on there, was going to be a project for that summer.
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May 31, 2021 16:26
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Nocheez posted:I rented a VW Atlas for a trip last week, and the wireless Android Auto is a gamechanger for me. I would love to get my phone out of my cupholder for directions, and the Waze map on my main screen with Spotify chugging alongside. I just put a Pioneer W4500NEX in my brz, with a backup camera, and the $200 thing that links it with the OBD/CANbus on the car, and I spent $800. I looked at the lovely chinese tablets that are pretty popular but I didn't want to have to screw around with trying to make something work when I could spend a little more money for something that's literally designed for what I wanted. I have no regrets on any of it, and the wireless android auto is fantastic. I bought everything through crutchfield, but you're going to have a tough time finding head units right now depending on what exactly you want and your budget.
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May 31, 2021 19:55
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two_beer_bishes posted:I just put a Pioneer W4500NEX in my brz, with a backup camera, and the $200 thing that links it with the OBD/CANbus on the car, and I spent $800. I looked at the lovely chinese tablets that are pretty popular but I didn't want to have to screw around with trying to make something work when I could spend a little more money for something that's literally designed for what I wanted. I have no regrets on any of it, and the wireless android auto is fantastic. I bought everything through crutchfield, but you're going to have a tough time finding head units right now depending on what exactly you want and your budget. It's more a case of it not being quite worth that much money because I don't need a fabulous head unit, the factory stereo works pretty well for me overall. Thanks for the input, looks like I'm just going to wait for a while until things shake out in the market.
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May 31, 2021 20:16
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Are there any modular-with-a-screen-on-an-extension-cable units y'all would recommend, and/or any double-DIN units that can integrate with a second HUD-style screen for Apple/Android functionality like some stock units can? I'm considering options for my 2011 Mini and it looks like the only stuff out there is Chinese imports that replace the big speedo with an OEM-look screen but seem like they could be a nightmare for long-term support (CarNaviPlayer, etc), or a Metra kit that puts a double-DIN mount so low on the center console that it would be actively unsafe to use it for navigation without also having a separate screen closer to eye level.
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Jun 2, 2021 21:06
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I believe alpine and pioneer make units like this. Crutchfield will list them on their site but they’ll be out of stock at the moment on Crutchfield. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500ILXF309/Alpine-Halo9-iLX-F309.html?tp=5684 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130DMC6600/Pioneer-DMH-WC6600NEX.html?tp=5684 Coredump fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jun 4, 2021 |
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Jun 4, 2021 01:09
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Anyone know if (and how) you can buff a scratch from a touchscreen? Managed to put a slight nick in the screen of my head unit at the weekend, trying to make the best of a poor quality fitting kit. It's a plastic screen, so I presume it's resistive.
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Jun 7, 2021 14:46
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Might try some Mother's or Meguiars Plastic X polish. Definitely test something with a similar screen first. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR Other choice might be test a cheapo screen protector and see if it makes the screen less noticeable. If its resistive touch screen it shouldn't mess with accuracy too much. Finally, look for an old touchscreen H/U on ebay being sold for parts and do a screen swap. Buts probably gonna be scratched too.
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Jun 7, 2021 15:08
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Posted in the general questions thread: unbuttonedclone posted:What price point should I look for if I want to improve the stock basic-rear end sound in a 2000 Golf (2door) w/out the Monsoon? Amazon has $25/pair Pioneers, $50/pair Amazon brand, and then on up? I bought the 19.99 Bluetooth receiver at Walmart that's 200w/4 (which I think is more than the stock but I can take it back). I am willing to spend up to $200 to improve the sound system, bass is important. Do I have any options (sub, powered or not) or do I need more money (I know tons of car audio stuff is sold secondhand so I'm open to "go to a pawn shop" or "buy on Facebook" replies). I'd also say I'm the type of person who messes with the EQ all day long if that tells you anything. I remember my buddy who'd give me rides home from middle school in his Mitsu Eclipse and he had a mechanical EQ mounted to the bottom of his steering column.
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Jul 28, 2021 06:19
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On a car that old, the stock speakers are probably mostly held together with spiderwebs and dreams. Changing the speakers out is a cheap and effective way to improve your sound, but you should also be running an aftermarket head unit. Are you using the factory unit, and do you have any experience installing this stuff on your own? FWIW, even "cheap" Pioneer speakers will be a big improvement over what you're listening to now. For bass you're probably going to need a subwoofer, and I've heard good things about the little bazooka tubes that you can install under seats or in the trunk with a small footprint. $200 is pretty tight to work with, but if you're willing to forego bass until you can scrape together some more money, you could probably get a bluetooth/USB-based head unit from Pioneer, wiring harnesses, and some speakers. The bass will be much better than what you have now, FWIW. Nocheez fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Jul 28, 2021 |
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Jul 28, 2021 14:23
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Nocheez posted:On a car that old, the stock speakers are probably mostly held together with spiderwebs and dreams. Changing the speakers out is a cheap and effective way to improve your sound, but you should also be running an aftermarket head unit. Are you using the factory unit, and do you have any experience installing this stuff on your own? Yes. I got the 19.99 Bluetooth special at Walmart, which I probably should return. It's supposedly 50 watts X 4 but when I posted in the other thread it sounds like that is hopeful. Let me quote some of that so someone doesn't repeat it. STR posted:That head unit is more like 15-20 watts per channel, not 200. Unless you meant 200 divided by 4, in which case that would be when lightning strikes ("peak" on cheap stuff). Pretty much any car speaker from the 80s and up that isn't a proprietary system (Monsoon, JBL, etc) can handle that. Yes, I have some experience but also have my dad who keeps me from electrocuting myself or forgetting nuts when doing car stuff. Maybe these speakers and a better head unit? I never learned all the audio terms like RMS, peak power, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B00E81RAU0 How much would a Bluetooth receiver that could power them decently cost?
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Jul 28, 2021 15:55
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unbuttonedclone posted:
Something like this will work just fine. Those speakers you listed are more expensive than you really need to spend: you're putting a big muffler on a small engine here.
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Jul 28, 2021 16:14
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unbuttonedclone posted:Posted in the general questions thread: In that case you might want to look into Pioneer receivers that can do "network mode" on their EQ. These days that feature is available on surprisingly cheap Pioneer HU's. It allows you to send a specific range of frequencies to your front channel, rear channel, and sub. You can also do time alignment to help center the sound in your car. Then, if you get a HU that can do active crossover you can buy plain speakers from places like madisound or parts express and not have to worry with dealing with the passive crossovers car audio speakers come with. However if you want to get out cheap, then look for an amp with bluetooth receiver built-in on sonic electronix or a decent head unit with bluetooth, buy a decently rated set of speakers in your price range that fit your car, and sound deaden your doors with something like https://www.amazon.com/SoundSkins-Pro-Door-Kit-Coverage/dp/B07GNWCHCZ to improve the sound coming out of the speakers. Coredump fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jul 29, 2021 |
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Jul 28, 2021 16:35
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Hey ya'll I have just purchased a new to me 2016 CR-V EX that has the HondaLink smart features. They suck. I use a Pixel4a and when I connect to Bluetooth, it doesn't show any controls for my phone even tho it plays audio. So I have to do everything through my phone still. The HondaLink app doesn't connect, but it looks like that might be just diagnostics type info? I found a new firmware update online and it added CarPlay, but I'm in deep on Android. I don't think I can do anything to make it better at this point, so I'm looking at replacing the HU. My previous car had a Kenwood DDX9906XR that was working great on Wireless AA. So I'm thinking of getting it installed in the CR-V. Would anyone know, does the small 2nd screen go dead if I swap the HU? Also I have a right lane camera that turns on with the blinker, will that still work? Same with the reverse camera. I know the Kenwood can do 3 cameras, but I don't want to pick a camera from the screen etc. Also, the stock raido sounds pretty bad. Would you think its mostly power output from it? Or should I look into replacing the speakers also. I've looked at Crutchfield for teh install packages. It looks like it suggests to go with iDatalink ADS-MRR (I saw there is an ADS-MRR2, is it worth looking at?) and the iDatalink HRN-RR-HO2 — Wiring Harness. It states it'll keep the steering controls. The stock radio has an HDMI input, but I have not played with it yet. Would there be a way to add Android Auto to the stock head unit?
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Jul 28, 2021 19:16
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I recently installed a new head unit in the wife's car, and it's a touch screen deal with a 10 band EQ. The presets all sound like trash, and leaving it flat makes it sound way too...flat. This it the first time I've had to dial in a stereo with more than just treble/mid/bass adjustments, and I'm completely lost as to where to even begin. Any good resources or, idk, phone apps that can help with this?
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Jul 28, 2021 20:14
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opengl128 posted:I recently installed a new head unit in the wife's car, and it's a touch screen deal with a 10 band EQ. The presets all sound like trash, and leaving it flat makes it sound way too...flat. This it the first time I've had to dial in a stereo with more than just treble/mid/bass adjustments, and I'm completely lost as to where to even begin. Any good resources or, idk, phone apps that can help with this? What headunit is it if you don’t mind me asking. The thing is cars kinda suck as a listening environment. When you’re playing your music on the flat preset you won’t get flat response due to the shape of the cabin and speaker positions, etc. The sound will have peaks and valleys in it even with flat eq. For resources you might look into the car audio fabrication channel on YouTube as I’m pretty sure he does some stuff on eq. And then for online resource diymobileaudio.com is a good technical place for sound quality car audio.
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Jul 29, 2021 03:51
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Try downloading a frequency generator on your phone and wiping up and down the range to see if any tones sound louder or quieter than the rest. Adjust as necessary to get a flat response then use that curve as a baseline to make other responses.
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Jul 29, 2021 10:41
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Recently picked up a 09 VW Rabbit and typically I update the stereo first thing since I'm in my car 40-60 hours a week. I was doing some digging recently across what stuff is out there for headunits and came across the OPENAUTO platform for raspberry pis. However, with all things that seems interesting and maybe cheaper than just buying a 1k$ headunit -- the info and installation guide is severely lacking. Anyone setup anything like this? Here's some info and links I caught: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cb5DBteQUl8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPwnaYJWL5g https://bluewavestudio.io/
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Jul 31, 2021 01:13
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2reachmu posted:Recently picked up a 09 VW Rabbit and typically I update the stereo first thing since I'm in my car 40-60 hours a week. I was doing some digging recently across what stuff is out there for headunits and came across the OPENAUTO platform for raspberry pis. However, with all things that seems interesting and maybe cheaper than just buying a 1k$ headunit -- the info and installation guide is severely lacking. Sounds like a decent way to frustrate yourself especially when Android Auto, Carplay and other stuff that offers can be had for less that $200. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QGZMCYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_W5SRE1QK7AV4AS7D06GM They don't have a lot of the tweakable aesthetic stuff, but plugging my phone in and using regular android auto is like 95% of my usage. Idk what the whole setup costs; if you're able to follow instructions and assemble a PC, you could probably handle the build, as it appears to be just plugging a couple modules into a Pi. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Aug 1, 2021 |
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Aug 1, 2021 07:56
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Are head units designed to look like '90s tech but with modern stuff like bluetooth connectivity a thing? I know there are head units made to look like they were made in the '60s but I haven't seen anything like that for '90s stuff. I've currently got a double-din unit with AM/FM, cassette, and CD, but the cassette buzzes horribly so the adapter isn't helping. I almost forgot, when I am using the tape adapter, but not with the radio, I hear a whine that varies in pitch with the RPM of the engine. Low RPM, lower whine, high RPM higher whine. Has anyone ever heard of that? I assume it has to be some sort of interference between the radio and some part of the engine's electrical system?
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Aug 7, 2021 04:05
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are head units designed to look like '90s tech but with modern stuff like bluetooth connectivity a thing? I know there are head units made to look like they were made in the '60s but I haven't seen anything like that for '90s stuff. I've currently got a double-din unit with AM/FM, cassette, and CD, but the cassette buzzes horribly so the adapter isn't helping. Pioneer still makes low-end headunits that haven't changed much over the past 20 years. It sounds perfect for you. That whine is due to bad grounds, getting rid of the tape adapter will help immensely.
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Aug 7, 2021 13:28
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Thanks, I'll look into those. Are Cartoys or similar car audio in-person stores a thing anymore? I feel like I might want to look at some of these in person to see how the texture/shade/gloss of the plastic goes with the rest of the car. I guess my other option is get one that doesn't match and just keep the cover closed all the time and control the bluetooth either with voice or from my phone.
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Aug 7, 2021 19:49
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https://www.amazon.com/Receiver-Blu...2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== I’ve had really good luck with the cheap head units on Amazon. Bonus is that they’re usually less offensively designed than the name brand poo poo. If you’re going to go into deep car audiophile territory they aren’t the best, but even I (an unashamed audiophile) have been totally fine with the audio quality of the ones I’ve used.
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Aug 7, 2021 20:35
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I actually like the way that looks, and it looks like you can select the color so I could probably set it to green, which is what almost all of the other lights in the car are, so it fits. I've got a double-DIN but Subaru made a filler thing for the models that didn't have a CD player so I could either track one of those down or 3d print something to cover up the bare metal and hollow back and use it as a little storage cubby. I was also expecting to be looking at like $150-200 for a head unit so if that is decent (or at least as good as a 15-20 year old head unit like I have had in almost all my cars) that's a nice amount of savings. What should I be looking for with regards to specs to make sure that it will work with the speaker setup in my car? Matching voltages? Amperage? A certain number of plugs in the back? I'll have to look for the wiring diagram of my car, I'll check the link in the OP. Also, how can I tell if a speaker will fit in my car? Are there standardized sizes or would I need to compare measurements between mounting screws and the size of the speaker dish/cone itself? I've got a missing door card anchor so I'm going to try replacing that but if that doesn't fix the rattle I'll be looking for one new speaker and I've never done any audio stuff in any of my cars before aside from re-soldering an aux jack card that had failed in my Camry.
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Aug 8, 2021 00:29
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Get the wiring harness adapter for your car, ignore the specs. They’re all broadly the same. They matter zero with stock normal-car speakers like an older Subaru. Also if you want CarPlay, I’ve had good luck with variants of this https://www.amazon.com/Hikity-Touchscreen-Bluetooth-Receiver-Microphone/dp/B08YWRPR89/ref=dp_prsubs_2?pd_rd_i=B08YWRPR89&psc=1
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Aug 8, 2021 05:44
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I'm not sure if anyone makes a wiring harness for my SVX anymore, some people used to but that was small batches a decade or so ago. Such is life having a weird semi-rare car. I also looked at those bluetooth adapters you plug into the back of the stereo replacing some other input but the inputs are all integrated minus the antenna so that won't work, the only wires are for the speakers, antenna, and illumination. I don't really need carplay or android auto or anything like that, I don't turn Siri on so I can't even use carplay. Or at least that's how it seemed when I was renting a 2021 Camry.
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Aug 8, 2021 08:46
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