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That piece is a generic "rubber exhaust strap" that you can find by searching for that. They're all pretty much alike and barely cost anything, so I wouldn't worry about getting the exact right one; if the replacement starts falling to bits in a year or two, it's no big deal to get another.
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May 31, 2021 22:25
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Slavvy posted:Rebuilding starters is fun and easy but you should really really make sure that's the problem first, maybe connect the positive lead to the other end of the starter lead that terminates at the relay? Hooked a good car battery up to that sucker and it didn't budge. It just sat motionless. Taunting me. It will be mine.
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Jun 1, 2021 04:03
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Renaissance Robot posted:That piece is a generic "rubber exhaust strap" that you can find by searching for that. They're all pretty much alike and barely cost anything, so I wouldn't worry about getting the exact right one; if the replacement starts falling to bits in a year or two, it's no big deal to get another. Ok thanks, google was failing me and I'm usually pretty ok at that, so even knowing it's a thing that exists is helpful. I would have expected to find something on fortnine or bikebandit but I was weirdly unlucky.
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Jun 1, 2021 06:23
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epswing posted:I have never done any of those 4 options before. I'm reasonably handy, but my limiting factors are time (got kids) and space (small garage). What say you, thread? If the problem really is that the starter is blown you can get a used one from ebay.ca for like $150 CAD which is way easier to swallow than a grand. I believe the part number is 31200-MR5-038 and there's a ton of listings. But you might still pull the starter from your bike and connect it directly to battery and it will spin fine, so you really gotta nail the troubleshooting before ordering parts
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Jun 1, 2021 08:20
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mewse posted:If the problem really is that the starter is blown you can get a used one from ebay.ca for like $150 CAD which is way easier to swallow than a grand. I believe the part number is 31200-MR5-038 and there's a ton of listings. Yeah, don't rule out stuff like a seized sprag clutch or other weirdness. No matter how unlikely, always check the simplest and cheapest things to fix before diving into the expensive stuff.
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Jun 1, 2021 09:44
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Right, yeah I’m not ordering anything until I pull the starter out. If I give it power outside the bike and it spins, the problem must be further down the chain. Otherwise it’s the starter itself and at that point I’ll repair/replace.
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Jun 1, 2021 12:36
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Hey non-flatlanders, here's a stupid question for you that I should know the answer to. Last time I owned a carbed bike, the maximum elevation change I was likely to encounter was maybe 500'. I remember reading stuff about jetting changes in the mountains and stuff. Do you just sort of put up with a wheezing engine when you've got 8000' mountain passes? Or do you do *things* to the carburetor to mitigate it? If I moved a bike from 500'ASL to 4000'ASL and rode it above 6000'ASL, I would have to do *things* to the carburetor, right?
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Jun 1, 2021 20:02
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rejet for your new altitude range. There's gonna be 'wheezing' due to elevation alone. Flatslides don't compensate for altitude well. CV carbs will outside of the idle circuit. (external/tool-less air/fuel screws make this easier to adjust for) This assumes the airbox/filter has not been hosed with.
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Jun 1, 2021 20:11
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epswing posted:Right, yeah I’m not ordering anything until I pull the starter out. If I give it power outside the bike and it spins, the problem must be further down the chain. Otherwise it’s the starter itself and at that point I’ll repair/replace. This is a trap for beginners, a lot of starters will spin fine outside the bike but not turn an engine over. Starters don't usually just break, they deteriorate slowly and eventually you hit the point where there isn't enough capacity to turn the engine over. If that happens you just need to replace the brushes and give the armature plates a clean up. If you have a sprag problem it usually lets the starter turn without turning the motor. You've already eliminated a mechanically stuck engine. I don't know if your bike has a starter that drives the engine through a series of gears or directly but if it's the former there could be some unlikely-rear end issue there. All that's left is the starter and possibly the earth cable/system, you can eliminate this by putting the black jumper lead straight to the starter body.
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Jun 1, 2021 20:16
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Finger Prince posted:Do you just sort of put up with a wheezing engine when you've got 8000' mountain passes? Yup. Highest I've been was 2757 m or 9050 feet over Stelvio. Second gear sucked out of hairpins, but it didn't run wrong or anything. Most carbs compensate for altitude through the various and mysterious air ports. It would have to be very old or very simple/specialized to not include that. You lose power, as you do with all naturally aspirated engines, but the mixture doesn't go off a whole lot. If you move permanently to high altitude, then I would consider rejetting.
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Jun 1, 2021 20:18
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My Buell was Tuned which involved disabling the O2 sensor so it wouldn't alter the map, that also resulted in wheezing high up in Austria.
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Jun 1, 2021 21:06
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EFI supremacy.
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Jun 1, 2021 21:07
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Anyone want to reassure me I've not somehow doomed myself and everyone around me to death? My battery died on Sunday (inevitably, given it;s the first nice weekend in months). Not too annoyed, it's the original one, and six years on an Italian v-twin is like 42 years on a Japanese bike, so I feel like I got my money's worth. Ordered a new Yuasa to replace it. For background, the battery placement and access on a Monster is a little odd - the battery is between the swingarm mounts, in a little plastic cocoon surrounded by the ECU and starter motor relays. In good Ducati fashion they've actually made everything work quite well despite that silliness in that the battery replacement process, despite being long-winded, is actually a lot quicker than on a lot of bikes - take off one side panel and undo the neutral connection (a single wire goes to the battery negative terminal and is bolted to the chassis, with the neutrals from the rest of the bike). Then pop off the cover over the battery, undo the extra-long bolt that goes to the positive but sits proud of the stuff above the battery to give you a jump-start point. and you can then undo two bolts to drop the battery out of the bottom. Like I say, long-winded in principle but in practice this gives you a ton of room to work in while also keeping things neatly out of the way - it's so much easier than those cramped under-seat arrangements most bikes have. Anyway, did the whole job in twenty minutes - the trickiest bit by far is getting the neutral hooked back up because one of the neutrals (I *think* from the aftermarket security system, as I could account for the others) is a tiny bit short, so it makes maneuvering the bolt into the hole a bit of a pain. As I started to tighten it up I noticed a tiny spark from one of the neutrals to the chassis - a little odd because at that point there *should* have been a good connection through the bolt itself, and also because with the bike keyed off there shouldn't have been much current at all flowing - just enough for the built-in immobiliser and that third-party security system. Anyway I double-checked there was a solid connection from the neutral to the chassis (almost zero resistance from the bolt head to the engine) and the immobiliser light *was* flashing so I assumed all was well. Put the key in, and there was a little pop that actually sounded more like a circuit breaker going than an arc or anything else (*might* have been the relay for the accessory system that's wired to the ignition) but the bike goes completely dark. Double-check there's no resistance between the neutrals and the chassis, then that the battery itself hadn't exploded somehow, and that there was current flowing through the live terminal, then start pulling fuses. All are okay, and then  reasserts itself - the master 30A fuse isn't in the fuse boxes, it's in the battery compartment. It's also buried under the starter relay in such a way the only way I can get to the bastard is to drop the battery all over again and attack it from underneath... and it's fine. At this point I give up and resign myself to the house-selling cost of getting a garage to start teraing into the electrics to fix it, so I button everything back up (again getting the little spark from the neutral as I tighten it)... and notice that the immobiliser light is back on. Key in, everything lights up, bike starts first press. So... what did I gently caress up to cause these symptoms? Bike dies like the master fuse has blown as soon I turn it on, basically loosening and tightening all the battery connections again fixes it. The only thing I can think of is somehow maybe the positive was shorting to the chassis (but there was no sound or smell of arcing, and the battery box and environs are all plastic, so I don't see how - also the battery wasn't even noticeably warm when I dropped it, and if it had been shorted for that long I'd have expected *some* kind of reaction. Also I shouldn't have seen 12.7V between the positive terminal and the chassis if it *was* shorting, surely?
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Jun 1, 2021 21:37
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Anyone want to reassure me I've not somehow doomed myself and everyone around me to death? Complete pulled out of my rear end guess? Immobilizer objected to its power being futzed with and immobilized things. Second futzing reset it and now its fine and will allow you to turn the bike on. I wouldn't worry about it. I wouldn't worry at all about the now scramble brained immobilizer immobilizing you on the edge of a scenic bog in Norfolk. I wouldn't worry about pleading for help from the web-fingered denizens of said bog, to whom electricity is something akin to magic. Nothing to worry about at all.
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Jun 1, 2021 22:44
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Dumb question but since I can't ride a bike right now and don't have a working bike, I'm finally getting back to working on the meth gixxer. My goal is to be able to sit at my dining room table and clean caliper pistons (and other parts) until they're spotless, but I only have one hand. I was thinking of getting a plastic tray and a cheap vacuum vise like this. I'd get soapy water and/or other cleaning agents all over the vise, but it's cheap so oh well if it starts rusting. Of course that one weighs under 3lbs so the plastic tray would have to be anchored somehow to the table. Or I could try something like this, which I think would have enough height to clear a small tray. Or I could just walk around Harbor Freight until I come up with a solution. Thoughts?
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Jun 1, 2021 23:11
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Finger Prince posted:Complete pulled out of my rear end guess? You forgot "WITH AN OWL! 'OOTIN AT YER!". Anyway I have an RAC membership and enough common sense to never go anywhere near the Den Of Partridge. Now the week's holiday I'm about to take in Cornwall is a *bit* more worrying but I've enough Cornish blood to pass, hopefully.
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Jun 1, 2021 23:22
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Anyone want to reassure me I've not somehow doomed myself and everyone around me to death? Next time, take the key out of the ignition when changing battery and it should stop this happening, you bud confused the immobilizer. If you did take the key out then it works on Harley/car logic so leave the key in the ignition with it turned to on but the kill switch off, then disconnect the battery.
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Jun 2, 2021 00:13
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MomJeans420 posted:Dumb question but since I can't ride a bike right now and don't have a working bike, I'm finally getting back to working on the meth gixxer. My goal is to be able to sit at my dining room table and clean caliper pistons (and other parts) until they're spotless, but I only have one hand. I was thinking of getting a plastic tray and a cheap vacuum vise like this. I'd get soapy water and/or other cleaning agents all over the vise, but it's cheap so oh well if it starts rusting. Of course that one weighs under 3lbs so the plastic tray would have to be anchored somehow to the table. I have a much older equivalent of the second one and it’s been surprisingly useful for things that aren’t giant gently caress-off vice jobs. Surprisingly it was even tough enough to hold an AR15 in a vice block while I torqued the barrel in, which I thought for sure would end up with a jacked up vice. My problem with anything suction is that IMO they always fail at the most inopportune times. In this instance it may not matter since it’s not going to topple over or anything, it’ll just be loose in a grimy tray, but once it’s loose you’re probably going to have a crappy time re-attaching it without cleaning the tray first. I hate to sound like uncle moneybags here but those prices are basically disposable so I’d just try the suction one for giggles and if it sucks move on to the other one.
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Jun 2, 2021 00:25
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Slavvy posted:This is a trap for beginners, a lot of starters will spin fine outside the bike but not turn an engine over. Starters don't usually just break, they deteriorate slowly and eventually you hit the point where there isn't enough capacity to turn the engine over. If that happens you just need to replace the brushes and give the armature plates a clean up. Yeah I'm not really looking forward to the starter working outside of the bike. The starter did not deteriorate slowly, the bike just sat for 3 weeks and suddenly couldn’t start. Recap: the starter button audibly closes the starter relay but the starter motor doesn't turn, and the engine isn’t seized. Update: I connected a good battery directly to the starter motor lug and body and it didn’t spin. I also tested resistance between the starter lug and the starter body, and several other ground point, and they all read 0. So... there’s a short inside the starter motor, sounds like? The starter motor turns a starter drive gear, which incidentally needs to be removed in order to remove the starter motor. Also need to drain the coolant to move a hose out of the way.    I can’t tell yet if I’m getting in way over my head. Doesn’t seem like a terrible job. Drain the coolant and move the hose, remove the crankcase rear cover and remove the starter drive gear, unhook and remove the starter motor, repair/replace it, and put everything back on. Any big red flags?
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Jun 2, 2021 01:09
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That's all painful Honda bullshit but straightforward. It does sound like something's gone wrong with the starter itself, if you take it apart you should be able to see the problem. If you can't see the problem his test the armature continuity, it'll probably be hosed.
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Jun 2, 2021 01:33
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Slavvy posted:Next time, take the key out of the ignition when changing battery and it should stop this happening, you bud confused the immobilizer. Key was out throughout apart from when I tried to start it. Other than removing/replacing the covers, the process was identical both times (I'm more than aware of how stupid I am so I literally followed the manual to the letter just to make sure). One thing that has occurred to me is that it's possible I might have jostled that bastard master fuse loose the first time round - there was a little bit of pitting on the blades that I just assumed was age but might have been a bit of arcing? Still doesn't explain why the immobiliser light was flashing normally before I put the key in, though.
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Jun 2, 2021 01:38
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Martytoof posted:I have a much older equivalent of the second one and it’s been surprisingly useful for things that aren’t giant gently caress-off vice jobs. Surprisingly it was even tough enough to hold an AR15 in a vice block while I torqued the barrel in, which I thought for sure would end up with a jacked up vice. I ended up just buying the table top one with the least bad reviews. As you said, they're basically disposable so I'm going to just play around with them and see what works out.
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Jun 2, 2021 06:11
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A tiny spark when connecting something can be completely normal. There often are big capacitors on the various electronics that draw a rather large charging current if they're empty and connected to the battery. In the case of an immobilizer, they may always be live. Otherwise, if the ignition was on while connecting it, you are probably seeing the other stuff's capacitors charge.
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Jun 2, 2021 14:37
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What’s the call here? Symptoms: when the Goldwing is started cold, it runs on 3 cylinders. Slowly over about 30 seconds that last cylinder kicks in. At first it’s like one pop per second, then it speeds up, more and more cylinder firings until it is running on 4 cylinders. Then it’s fine. This problem gets worse the more it sits. If I ride it every day it really doesn’t do it, or does it minimally. It runs and drives fine otherwise I’m thinking: 1) Coils. Intermittent firing is classic “bad coil”, but the fact that it only does it when cold and no other time makes me think the coils are fine. I feel like a bad coil would kill that cylinder whenever it felt like it 2) Plugs. Eeehhhh. Maybe. I’ll pull them to see what they look like and to see if I can use them to identify which cylinder has the problem without playing the worst game: “touch a header to see if it’s hot” 3) Carbs. Most likely the culprit, in my mind, but also a weird symptom for carb trouble. Like is one carb draining the bowl completely? There is no fluid leaking at all from the bike so I’m guessing not. It’s also not dumping the gas into the cylinder because it doesn’t really smoke on start up and has never shown signs of hydrolocking or of gas in the oil. And again, after that 30 seconds the bike runs great, so in general it’s carbureted well. 4) Something worse like a sticky valve or lifter, or other valve train wonkiness? I hope not but 
Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Jun 4, 2021 |
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Jun 4, 2021 15:35
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Could the carb be leaking gas into the cylinder while it sits that makes it run poorly when it starts, but then it clears up from running? If the drip is slow enough too, that might explain why it doesn't do it when you're running it daily I see you said it doesn't smoke on startup, but would it, if it was only a little bit of gas, just enough to make it not fire?
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Jun 4, 2021 15:46
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Measure compression, just to rule out the possibly worst option.
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Jun 4, 2021 15:49
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^^ good ideas Sounds electrical to me too. A clogged jet wouldn't improve after 30 seconds. Stuck float wouldn't make a ton of sense either....if there's enough fuel in that bowl on startup it should run normally. Is the affected carb physically the farthest from the pump? The Goldwing carbs have a single inlet with tubes to feed the other carbs. A weak pump or clogged fuel tube could be choking off that last carb I suppose, until the flow is adequate. But again, if that's the case there should be enough fuel in that bowl when you shut the bike off.
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Jun 4, 2021 15:53
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Good ideas so far. I’m not sure which cylinder it is actually yet, I just know it’s one of them. I’ll pull and inspect the plugs as well as do a compression test, not necessarily for overall compression (who knows what that should be after 35 years and 65,000 miles) but for equal compression across the cylinders
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Jun 4, 2021 16:25
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The worst part will be waiting 3 days after adjusting something to see if it worked 
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Jun 4, 2021 16:30
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Does it have 4 coils? Or 1 coil and a distributor? In any case - run it for 30 seconds (stop it before the 4th cylinder starts to fire). Check which exhaust header stays cold. Then on that cylinder, swap the spark plug and lead (and if possible the coil) with one of the neighboring ones. Don't just cross the leads, that won't work because of the firing order. Let exhaust cool completely. Then re-start, and see if the same cylinder/exhaust stays cool. If yes, then the problem is with the cylinder/carb/the thing that sends the volts to the tingletron that makes the electrons extra angry. If the problem moves to another cylinder, then one of the parts you moved causes the problem.
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Jun 4, 2021 16:33
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I'm gonna go with: that is the carb either furthest uphill or furthest downhill when it's on the stand, it takes a little while for the fuel pump to fill the bowl sufficiently/plug to clear flooding. I would really, really struggle to care about it if it were my bike.
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Jun 4, 2021 20:02
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Every time you start it up just pretend you're starting up an old radial engine fighter plane
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Jun 4, 2021 20:13
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Slavvy posted:I'm gonna go with: that is the carb either furthest uphill or furthest downhill when it's on the stand, it takes a little while for the fuel pump to fill the bowl sufficiently/plug to clear flooding. I would really, really struggle to care about it if it were my bike. An easy theory to test if it has a center stand or some other way to prop it up straight.
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Jun 4, 2021 20:22
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Every day when I start this bike I have to fight with it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ffdn_AbR1uQ Yesterday was the first time it didn't eventually start. Sometimes it'll start up if I open the throttle a little just as it's sputtering, but no such luck. After I go through this and it finally starts (most days), all subsequent starts that day will be nearly immediate. One crank and it fires right up. Thinking it's the battery, I plugged it into a charger overnight and it started today, but not on the first crank. After running it for a bit and then coming back to it a few hours later, it started up immediately again. Thinking it's the battery? I'm also assuming there's a drain somewhere because it's basically brand new, but nothing I've added to it should have any exposed wires or electrical drains. All the lights are plug and play Ducati parts, and the USB port I added has a physical off switch.
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Jun 4, 2021 20:41
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That is a very typical ailment for an air cooled monster, which is what you really own. A non-exhaustive list of things that can make that happen: Module senses battery voltage too low, cuts off start signal, not necessarily from an actual bad battery Starter relay from 1983 failing Hopelessly inadequate earth cable being hopelessly inadequate Loose valve clearances robbing compression Emissions tune if you're running a pipe Tps calibration Immobilizer fuckery if you leave the key in overnight Ckp sensor too far from the flywheel Some of the fixes include but aren't limited to: Ckp shimming Aftermarket relay Supplementary cables Set clearances to the correct 80's specs Tune the ecu for the pipe if present
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Jun 4, 2021 21:05
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Jesus christ why does your bike sound like a bag of hammers falling down the stairs
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Jun 4, 2021 21:05
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Slavvy posted:That is a very typical ailment for an air cooled monster, which is what you really own. Well hey, at least it's a short list. Renaissance Robot posted:Jesus christ why does your bike sound like a bag of hammers falling down the stairs
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Jun 4, 2021 21:13
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I really like the hand waving at the beginning like we're about to be shown a magic trick
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Jun 4, 2021 22:12
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Slavvy posted:I'm gonna go with: that is the carb either furthest uphill or furthest downhill when it's on the stand, it takes a little while for the fuel pump to fill the bowl sufficiently/plug to clear flooding. I would really, really struggle to care about it if it were my bike. Plot twist: I only ever park it on the center stand because that era of Goldwing smokes when you park it on the side stand. Yeah I’m gonna take it as far as the plugs and a compression test mostly because I’m genuinely curious about the results of that but since the thing runs perfectly otherwise I’m not gonna tear it to pieces over it, especially at this time of year Also, Strife posted:Every day when I start this bike I have to fight with it. Maybe I just need to accept that overall the Goldwing runs pretty well Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jun 4, 2021 |
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Jun 4, 2021 22:17
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Renaissance Robot posted:Jesus christ why does your bike sound like a bag of hammers falling down the stairs Slavvy posted:That is a very typical ailment for an air cooled monster, which is what you really own.
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Jun 4, 2021 22:21
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