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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

slave to my cravings posted:

What are the white boards connected to on the inside? Floor joists?

They're probably the remains of the previous deck that was properly attached to the house.

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just another
Oct 16, 2009

these dead towns that make the maps wrong now
Yeah. Between the transience, Hutterite colonies, and legacy of make-do rural life, we're DIY/cash job central.

Vintersorg
Mar 3, 2004

President of
the Brendan Fraser
Fan Club



Can I just drill my new doorbell into the vinyl siding? I don't need a special bracket or anything? It's this little guy here:

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Vintersorg posted:

Can I just drill my new doorbell into the vinyl siding? I don't need a special bracket or anything? It's this little guy here:



Looks like you can just stick it on the siding with the double sided tape.

Vintersorg
Mar 3, 2004

President of
the Brendan Fraser
Fan Club



Yeah, I might just do that and see how it goes. The builder had put a hole thru the siding for doorbell wires but I don't need them. So covering it up with this.

Hope it holds up in the -30C winters!

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

just another posted:

It's as bad as you'd expect:


Groverdeck

biceps crimes
Apr 12, 2008


just another posted:

It's as bad as you'd expect:


:eyepop:

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

just another posted:




As you can see in the pictures, none of the posts are square, and the one closest to the camera is particularly askew.


What is holding the double deck beams onto the posts? Prayers? Maybe I'm not seeing it, but there should be a bracket, not a couple toe nails.

edit: The more I look at those pictures, the more my heart rate increases. That deck isn't safe at all, and it looks high enough to seriously hurt somebody; don't use it.

B-Nasty fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jun 4, 2021

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Well I probably shouldn't pile on this very sturdy deck but I'm curious did your home inspector put anything in their report about it?

papa horny michael
Aug 18, 2009

by Pragmatica

just another posted:

It's as bad as you'd expect:


holy poo poo

The Science Goy
Mar 27, 2007

Where did you learn to drive?

Vintersorg posted:

Can I just drill my new doorbell into the vinyl siding? I don't need a special bracket or anything? It's this little guy here:



These things weigh essentially nothing, so you don't need to try to hit a stud or anything like that. Personally I wouldn't trust the adhesive to hold up to season changes, so I'd just drill the screws right into the vinyl siding and call it good. Worked well enough for our Ring doorbell.

Also that deck is concerning, definitely proceed with caution and get the corners reasonably secured before you venture fully underneath with tools.

just another
Oct 16, 2009

these dead towns that make the maps wrong now

tangy yet delightful posted:

Well I probably shouldn't pile on this very sturdy deck but I'm curious did your home inspector put anything in their report about it?

Somewhat. We talked about the posts during the walkthrough and he pointed out how the current deck was secured to the remnants of the old deck and not to the ledger itself. In the body of the written report, the greater concern was the wobbly railings on the stairs, and how the deck wasn't built with a step up into the building and how that could lead to water intrusion.

He had a better bedside manner than you lot. :colbert:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

just another posted:

Somewhat. We talked about the posts during the walkthrough and he pointed out how the current deck was secured to the remnants of the old deck and not to the ledger itself. In the body of the written report, the greater concern was the wobbly railings on the stairs, and how the deck wasn't built with a step up into the building and how that could lead to water intrusion.

He had a better bedside manner than you lot. :colbert:

He was also missing the forest for the trees.

Seriously, your deck is held onto the remnants of an existing deck with what exactly? A few screws or nails? I wouldn't consider putting people on a "structure" like that. Google "deck collapse" if you want some motivation on doing it right.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Maybe the scale looks funny in the pic, but I thought it was only about 3-4' off the ground. Not that you want any deck to collapse, but it seems like you'd get a lot fewer fatalities.

just another
Oct 16, 2009

these dead towns that make the maps wrong now
The posts are 3 feet yeah, so broken necks but not fatalities.

Vintersorg
Mar 3, 2004

President of
the Brendan Fraser
Fan Club



Until you fall thru a post and a stray nail eviscerates you.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Vintersorg posted:

Until you fall thru a post and a stray nail eviscerates you.

And the grill lands on you and lights everything on fire.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Turns out goons are deck hypochondriacs too!

OP use at your own risk etc etc and I wouldn't have a party on it and I would replace it sooner rather than later, but it doesn't look like it's gonna collapse tomorrow or anything. If the posts holding it up get more out of plumb, that means something is moving and the risk that something bad happens soon goes up fast.

E: to be clear, everyone else is not wrong and your deck was not built at all correctly and is potentially dangerous, but I don't think (in my completely unprofessional, not a structural engineer, not a contractor, just sort of a jakeleg framer opinion) it's gonna collapse tomorrow or next month or probably next year with 4 people and a grill on it.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jun 4, 2021

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Turns out goons are deck hypochondriacs too!

OP use at your own risk etc etc and I wouldn't have a party on it and I would replace it sooner rather than later, but it doesn't look like it's gonna collapse tomorrow or anything. If the posts holding it up get more out of plumb, that means something is moving and the risk that something bad happens soon goes up fast.

E: to be clear, everyone else is not wrong and your deck was not built at all correctly and is potentially dangerous, but I don't think (in my completely unprofessional, not a structural engineer, not a contractor, just sort of a jakeleg framer opinion) it's gonna collapse tomorrow or next month or probably next year with 4 people and a grill on it.

This is how you get a free body diagram drawn at you.

Less Fat Luke
May 23, 2003

Exciting Lemon
Look at this guy underestimating the weight of an average goon

BadSamaritan
May 2, 2008

crumb by crumb in this big black forest


Just cover the exterior of the deck with lattice and be the Previous Owner you know you can be.

(this is a joke, pls fix your deck)

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Turns out goons are deck hypochondriacs too!

OP use at your own risk etc etc and I wouldn't have a party on it and I would replace it sooner rather than later, but it doesn't look like it's gonna collapse tomorrow or anything. If the posts holding it up get more out of plumb, that means something is moving and the risk that something bad happens soon goes up fast.

E: to be clear, everyone else is not wrong and your deck was not built at all correctly and is potentially dangerous, but I don't think (in my completely unprofessional, not a structural engineer, not a contractor, just sort of a jakeleg framer opinion) it's gonna collapse tomorrow or next month or probably next year with 4 people and a grill on it.

Without seeing how that thing is actually fastened to the ledger I wouldn't be willing to to as far as "4 people and a grill." I was not being excessive when I said that messing with jacking it up to replace the existing posts should not be done until that part is sorted. The only "solution" here, outside of the correct one (tearing it down), is to convert it to a free-standing deck as best as possible. And that needs to start at the ledger, not the "outside" posts. (why is that thing cantilevered? WHY?)

Vintersorg
Mar 3, 2004

President of
the Brendan Fraser
Fan Club



And the blades of grass harden in a miraculous moment and impale your body as your fall - dropping all your fresh squeezed lemonade.

just another
Oct 16, 2009

these dead towns that make the maps wrong now
Right, so new plan is:
1. Carriage bolts through the joists that connect to the joists that connect to the ledger
2. New posts and beam maybe a foot out from the house using deck blocks for footers
3. Straighten out (and maybe move) the posts and beam that have gone out of alignment (+ add post caps)
4. Add joist hangers
5. Disconnect the deck from the ledger altogether? With 3' posts, a floating deck would be to code in my area if it had a 18"x18"x3" pad beneath each post.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

just another posted:

Right, so new plan is:
1. Carriage bolts through the joists that connect to the joists that connect to the ledger
2. New posts and beam maybe a foot out from the house using deck blocks for footers
3. Straighten out (and maybe move) the posts and beam that have gone out of alignment (+ add post caps)
4. Add joist hangers
5. Disconnect the deck from the ledger altogether? With 3' posts, a floating deck would be to code in my area if it had a 18"x18"x3" pad beneath each post.

No on 5. There is no way to make that a proper free standing deck unless you're gonna sink sonotubes and concrete, possibly not even then. Those carriage bolts in #1 are to keep it from pulling away from/smashing into the house. The posts near them are to take load off of the wholly inadequate lag bolts/amount of overlap so they don't have to carry full weight.

I'd say get an engineer to give you an opinion but they would take one look at that, shove their fingers in the ears, close their eyes and start shouting "I CANT HEAR YOU I CAN SEE YOU" as they run to their car where they will bock your phone number and email.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


just another posted:

Right, so new plan is:
1. Carriage bolts through the joists that connect to the joists that connect to the ledger
2. New posts and beam maybe a foot out from the house using deck blocks for footers
3. Straighten out (and maybe move) the posts and beam that have gone out of alignment (+ add post caps)
4. Add joist hangers
5. Disconnect the deck from the ledger altogether? With 3' posts, a floating deck would be to code in my area if it had a 18"x18"x3" pad beneath each post.
#1 is definitely where I would start and definitely easiest/cheapest/potentially most useful, but as others have said, without knowing how the old deck actually connected to ????? it's potentially a useless feel-good patch. Adding a row of posts next to the house and a row of posts out near the edge of the cantilever theoretically keep everything from falling down, but digging proper new post holes underneath a 3' high deck sounds like a nightmare unless you know a bunch of Tolkien dwarves so I would just wait and tear the whole thing down and start over from scratch properly.

Anyway, call your insurance agent and ask some serious questions about the liability part of your policy and pretend you never posted questions on the internet where you thought your deck might be unsafe.

just another
Oct 16, 2009

these dead towns that make the maps wrong now
Maybe it's a dumb question but if this is the requirement for the foundation of a freestanding deck in my area:


Why couldn't the existing structure be retrofitted with the appropriate number of posts and cross-bracing?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

just another posted:

Why couldn't the existing structure be retrofitted with the appropriate number of posts and cross-bracing?

Because it's built so lovely that no doubt those aren't it's only deficiencies.

You could go track them all down and try to add the appropriate hangers, fasteners, spacing, etc but at that point you're better off carefully disassembling it to save the lumber and starting over from scratch.

You can't shine poo poo.

just another
Oct 16, 2009

these dead towns that make the maps wrong now
Fair enough. I'll do my best to make it stable and then strategically avoid buying patio furniture until it's rebuilt.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

just another posted:

Right, so new plan is:
1. Carriage bolts through the joists that connect to the joists that connect to the ledger
2. New posts and beam maybe a foot out from the house using deck blocks for footers
3. Straighten out (and maybe move) the posts and beam that have gone out of alignment (+ add post caps)
4. Add joist hangers
5. Disconnect the deck from the ledger altogether? With 3' posts, a floating deck would be to code in my area if it had a 18"x18"x3" pad beneath each post.

1a: remove the vinyl siding from where the ledger should be, and make sure it's actually there and in good condition.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Yay toilet won't fill, let's unbolt it from the floor, pull it away from the wall so we can isolate the water and check the washer in the full valve.

Oh it's glued to the wall with silicone? Right, fish a hacksaw blade behind it to cut the silicone.

Oh the floor bolts are spinning? Right what else is holding it down? Oh more silicone, okay we know how to deal with that, let's pull it away from the wall and isolate it.

There's no isolation valve and the DIY store closes in 15 minutes?

gently caress it, job for tomorrow.

I hate the man who plumbed this house. As there's an identical copy of this toilet upstairs I'll pick up 2 of everything tomorrow morning. loving houses man.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Is there a trick to getting undermount sinks out?

Current basin cracked and I have a replacement ready to go, I just can't get them old one out.

I'm having a bitch of a time getting thru the adhesive so I can drop the basin.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Welcome to the house of glue. Everything is built with glue. Bring more glue.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Sirotan posted:

Anybody have a sofa from Article? I've had an Ikea sofa for about 2.5 months now and I've come to the conclusion that it's really just not comfortable and I'm probably gonna return it. I'm not keen on buying a sofa I haven't put my butt in first, but
1) that method didn't seem to help me this time!!! and
2) their return policy is extremely generous

Gonna have to rent a drat van to return this thing and it feels a little lovely even though Ikea does accept returns of used furniture. I spent forever researching sofas the first time around so now I don't even know where to start.

what is your budget, what size do you want and fabric or leather?

I find article's prices to be low enough where there has to be some corner cutting somewhere. I looked at a random fabric sofa which was 1199 and claimed to have 100K Martindale rubs (not sure why it says "rubs" instead of "double rubs"), but in either case that's an insane amount. You would only see 100K in like, a super busy airport or something. I would expect a sofa at that price point to be more like 10-20K. It was 57% viscose and I've never seen that on a sofa (only rugs) so I'm not sure if it's a good fabric for that kind of item or not.

I would just go to a room and board first if they have one in your area. For a standard 83" sofa, I expect to see 1800+ for something really high quality if fabric, and probably 3000+ for leather. Find the firmness and seat depth that is best for you.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Jun 6, 2021

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

Motronic posted:

You can't shine poo poo.

that porch doesn't sound savable, but let's not be too hasty about what's possible with a turd

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiJ9fy1qSFI

ntan1
Apr 29, 2009

sempai noticed me

Sirotan posted:

Gonna have to rent a drat van to return this thing and it feels a little lovely even though Ikea does accept returns of used furniture. I spent forever researching sofas the first time around so now I don't even know where to start.

Article sofas are a complete piece of garbage and the material will wear out within 2 years of use- they do cost cutting everywhere.

What price range and material are you looking at for a sofa, between 2000-5000? Anything less then just go to Costco.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Just returned my Ikea sofa yesterday and am probably going with something from Crate & Barrel since they have a store near me and I got to sit on a bunch yesterday to test them out. C&B and Article seem to be the only places that don't have overwhelmingly terrible reviews and while the Article return policy is pretty good I still don't want to drop $2k+ on something I haven't even sat on.

he1ixx
Aug 23, 2007

still bad at video games
Hey goons it has been a while. Things continue to change and evolve here in Vermont. Yes, I said "here in Vermont" because we have officially moved up here. The house sale in PA went well and sold right about where I calculated it would back in the Fall and the money hit our bank account on Tuesday. HUGE relief. The packing and coordinating to make that all happen, while working full time until the day before loading the moving truck, was possibly the most stressful prolonged period of my life from a project planning perspective.

Last weekend, the biggest remaining wad of stress was driving the 22' Penske truck (loaded by pro movers on Friday) up to Vermont in the driving rain but I got it done. I hired two locals based on an ad I put out on a local website (Front Porch Forum) and they helped me unload last Sunday and, before we knew it, the move was done. I felt like sleeping for days afterwards.

So we have had a week to recover and the builders have been hard at work. On the roof, they installed snow-stoppers (see goons?! I listened. We even found a place that makes these one town over). They haven't done the snow-stoppers on the south roof yet because the solar installation has to happen.


Under the porch and all of the soffits were clad in shou sugi ban Tamarack and I think they look super rad.


Another team of subs is working on the dry-wall install inside. This picture is about a week old. They have all of the dry-wall put up now and are taping and mudding the whole thing. That should take another week or two and then the paint will go on all walls and the floors get finished. There is no finish on the ash hardwood upstairs and just one coat on the concrete on the first floor but all of the floors are covered right now to keep them safe.


The black siding looks great. Here is the east wall which has all of the base covering on it and is awaiting all of the black metal window trim.


Here is the south wall which is where the shou sugi ban meets the metal and I think it looks pretty stunning.



The electrical has been run to all parts of the house and is awaiting painting so that the light fixtures can get installed. The CAT-6 has been run everywhere too and, on a good internet note, the cable company said they are ready to install our fiber sometime this month. That eliminates another big worry. I bought Starlink as a backup since internet is so essential for my wife's work, but the results have been super spotty. If a Starlink dish gets so much as side-eye from a tree, it stops working and there are a lot of trees around our property. Finding a totally clear spot is difficult. If the fiber happens, it will take most of that worry off the table. The conduit is run, the wire is one pole down the street.

The tractor has been ordered but there is now a 3-4 MONTH lead time from Kubota. I ordered it last month so hopefully that timing works out perfectly.

Next steps:
- Finish drywall taping, mudding and sanding.
- Finsih exterior siding and window metal fitting
- Painting
- Floor finishes
- Installation of cabinetry
- Lighting
- Plaster on fireplace surround
- Lots of other stuff -- solar install, grading and landscaping etc

The journey continues, but at least I can bug my builder 3x a day about stuff since we are just 4 minutes away.

xsf421
Feb 17, 2011

Sirotan posted:

Just returned my Ikea sofa yesterday and am probably going with something from Crate & Barrel since they have a store near me and I got to sit on a bunch yesterday to test them out. C&B and Article seem to be the only places that don't have overwhelmingly terrible reviews and while the Article return policy is pretty good I still don't want to drop $2k+ on something I haven't even sat on.

My wife picked out an article sofa 18 months ago and I’m super unimpressed. The cushions don’t hold their shape, and we had to sew Velcro onto them so they’d stop sliding off the couch under normal use. The fabric pills like crazy and we constantly get poked by feathers sticking through.

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biceps crimes
Apr 12, 2008


Sirotan posted:

Just returned my Ikea sofa yesterday and am probably going with something from Crate & Barrel since they have a store near me and I got to sit on a bunch yesterday to test them out. C&B and Article seem to be the only places that don't have overwhelmingly terrible reviews and while the Article return policy is pretty good I still don't want to drop $2k+ on something I haven't even sat on.

Have you looked at DWR? Pricey, but they have the best couches that I’ve sat on

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