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I think a lot of it also depends on the roof type. My low angle is easy to get onto and clean so it might be easier for me to just get up there occasionally vs dealing with guards that might not help much. Plus a low angle roof might not shed that material very easily compared to something a little steeper. Most of the guards I've seen are the metal mesh type and I just see them getting filled with dirt/dust/pollen/moss/sludge.
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Jun 5, 2021 00:16
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Verman posted:I think a lot of it also depends on the roof type. Definitely. And the amount of rain you get and how quickly. The style I have will shoot some water off the roof in a very heavy storm on the higher pitched section. If you have heavy rain regularly (we do not) and a high pitch roof they might not be the best idea.
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Jun 5, 2021 00:21
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Verman posted:I think a lot of it also depends on the roof type. My low angle is easy to get onto and clean so it might be easier for me to just get up there occasionally vs dealing with guards that might not help much. Plus a low angle roof might not shed that material very easily compared to something a little steeper. My childhood home has these and they did not work. The leaf blower extension has been the best bang for the buck, though you need to be smart about the angles or else all the crap comes down on your head. After a young dad in my neighborhood fell off a ladder hanging lights and got a broken back for Christmas, I’ve been overly cautious around ladders. Little 6’ interior ones aren’t too bad, but climbing up onto the roof gives me the willies.
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Jun 5, 2021 00:34
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Im literally buying scaffolding with guardrails for painting in our new high-ceilinged house and plan on paying someone else every time the 24-ish foot roof needs to be accessed.
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Jun 5, 2021 01:57
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Pine needles, or in my case specifically spruce needles are such a pain in the rear end for gutters. They're short and work their way into any opening. I also had a fir tree right next to the house that died and we had removed, that helped a lot too. I have a mesh style guard on that front gutter and did all but the last foot or so since it didn't have any nearby trees to gum it up and was a clean section. This year though I saw a Squirrel run in that opening and up and down the gutter. So I guess I'll patch that piece up. They work well though for me, the gutters stay clear.
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Jun 5, 2021 15:20
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How are those foam gutter guards? I’ve seen them in Home Depot. Basically open cell foam that you stick in the gutter. Water goes through, leaves stay out. At least according to the sign next to them.
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Jun 5, 2021 17:09
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Cyrano4747 posted:How are those foam gutter guards? I’ve seen them in Home Depot. Basically open cell foam that you stick in the gutter. Water goes through, leaves stay out. At least according to the sign next to them. The ones I've seen around here are clogged with pollen/mud/slime/oil from your roofing materials and need to be removed and cleaned every year. I mean, they still "work" kinda, but in a heavy rain they stop taking up enough water to not overflow the gutters unless they're maintained, which seems to miss the point. They also don't seem to last more than a few years. They start to shrink and fall apart, faster when in full sun.
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Jun 5, 2021 17:14
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Those seem like an inorganic planting media to me. Collect a year's worth of dust and dirt, and start growing any sort of thing that floats along with those.
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Jun 5, 2021 17:36
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StormDrain posted:Those seem like an inorganic planting media to me. Collect a year's worth of dust and dirt, and start growing any sort of thing that floats along with those. Lol I hadn't thought about that, but yeah. I could see trees growing in those gutters after a few years. Some of the plants we have around here are aggressive growers to say the least. Motronic posted:The ones I've seen around here are clogged with pollen/mud/slime/oil from your roofing materials and need to be removed and cleaned every year. I mean, they still "work" kinda, but in a heavy rain they stop taking up enough water to not overflow the gutters unless they're maintained, which seems to miss the point. Makes sense. When I saw them they seemed like one of those things that should work, but I was sure there was a catch I was missing. Having helped a friend hacksaw down a downspout that was 100% packed with roofing debris (seriously, it weighed about 50 pounds and was a solid mass from just ahead of the spout all the way up to the gutter itself) I can see how those would clog pretty quickly too.
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Jun 5, 2021 17:39
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I put these up a few months ago. They seem to be working thus far, but it's too early to really tell. I only have to deal with leaves, no pine needles.
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Jun 5, 2021 19:13
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I got my roof and gutters done back in April and the roofers suggested and installed these from a local company. Since we only get free water from the sky occasionally here in NorCal - they haven't been fully tested yet - but they are passing my tests with a hose so far, but I can see the water running right over them in some sort of bigger storm or typhoon. We'll see how it handles 150 million tons of sycamore leaves, dingleberry seeds, twigs and poo poo between October and April.  https://www.leafblaster.com/ I was also considering getting these and having someone install them. http://flexxpointdirect.com/order-flexxpoint.html
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Jun 6, 2021 02:24
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Motronic posted:I've got similar for a pressure washer. I've got gutter guards, but they still need to be cleaned on occasion. Thirding this, but for a shop vac. My dad salvaged a bunch of extension tubes from various places, and we cleaned my gutter with the shop vac. It was a two-person job (one ground and one ladder person) but zero cleanup, it owned.
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Jun 6, 2021 06:46
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Keyser_Soze posted:I got my roof and gutters done back in April and the roofers suggested and installed these from a local company. Since we only get free water from the sky occasionally here in NorCal - they haven't been fully tested yet - but they are passing my tests with a hose so far, but I can see the water running right over them in some sort of bigger storm or typhoon. We'll see how it handles 150 million tons of sycamore leaves, dingleberry seeds, twigs and poo poo between October and April. My roofer had a sample of some type of mesh that, from certain angles, looked like a solid piece of metal. However it was like a heavy mesh screen from other angles. Apparently it is really good at keeping out everything that isn't water. Unfortunately I opted to not get them because I'm prepping the house for sale; the new owner can choose the gutter solution of their dreams.
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Jun 6, 2021 06:55
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edit: wrong thread
FCKGW fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Jun 6, 2021 |
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Jun 6, 2021 17:04
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The correct choice is bigger gutters.
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Jun 6, 2021 21:35
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Elephanthead posted:The correct choice is bigger gutters. Why don't they just make the whole roof out of whatever gutters are made of?
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Jun 6, 2021 22:21
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Zarin posted:Why don't they just make the whole roof out of whatever gutters are made of? I mean....they do. Metal roofs are a thing.
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Jun 6, 2021 22:24
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Motronic posted:I mean....they do. Metal roofs are a thing. I lived in Panama for about two years and we had a metal roof. During the rainy season, you just couldn't talk to anyone inside until the downpour stopped because it was impossibly loud.
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Jun 6, 2021 22:27
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Sundae posted:I lived in Panama for about two years and we had a metal roof. During the rainy season, you just couldn't talk to anyone inside until the downpour stopped because it was impossibly loud. When I lived in El Salvador the family i was living with layered clay tile/Spanish tile over a metal roof. It was kinda the best of both worlds.
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Jun 6, 2021 22:41
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Sundae posted:I lived in Panama for about two years and we had a metal roof. During the rainy season, you just couldn't talk to anyone inside until the downpour stopped because it was impossibly loud. Yeah, if you don't have good insulation it's just awful. My office addition that I built was metal roof with R-22C insulation, cathedral ceiling and it was totally fine. The rest of the barn with a non-insulated metal roof was completely and totally unusable for talking or phone calls in the rain.
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Jun 6, 2021 22:42
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Motronic posted:I mean....they do. Metal roofs are a thing. If I wasn't selling this place and living in it for another decade instead, I would absolutely have gotten a metal roof instead of the shingle one I got. I was just riffing off of "why don't they make the entire plane out of whatever the black box is made from?" post of yore 
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Jun 6, 2021 22:46
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Is there a recommended paint brand that goons gravitate towards? We got a bunch of swatches from Behr because... they had a big display of them at Home Depot, lol. Additionally, recs for primer paints? I can think of at least two rooms we're going to change from light blue/grey, whatever the really common house seeing colour is, to much darker shades. Are tinted primers recommended, as well? Basically, I've watched one video on how to paint, like technique, but know nothing about... any of the rest of the process. 
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Jun 6, 2021 23:08
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Neighbors next door have a metal roof. Both springs we've been here the snow slides off in a giant roofalanche and bends the gutter so it no longer gutters
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Jun 6, 2021 23:19
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Johnny Truant posted:Is there a recommended paint brand that goons gravitate towards? We got a bunch of swatches from Behr because... they had a big display of them at Home Depot, lol. Paint is a thing you need to learn. I paint with Sherwin professional paints. And I'm going to suggest that you don't do that unless you really want to learn and potentially get some subpar results first. They are unforgiving. And when you're talking about paint and primer, you probably aren't interested in this. But, to be fair......you can almost shop by weight for paint. The cheaper the paint the fewer solids are in it and the lighter the gallon will be. Consumer paints also have modifiers in them that slightly reduce their coverage and drying time but also make them a lot easier to apply and make look good. So as a general suggestion I'd choose whichever quality brand is closest to you. Like, a real paint store not big box. Learn how their sales work. Sherwin, until all of this poo poo happened, would run pretty predictable sales and that's when you want to go get your paint. I'm going to specifically recommend against Sherwin right now simply because their main production facility was in Texas and every pipe in the joint froze and burst a few months ago..........so they're got some serious supply issues. Bottom line, don't cheap out on paint. Buy the best consumer-targeted paint you can get locally unless you want to really learn some poo poo about painting. If you do then buy the best pro line paint you can get locally and read up online about how to use it. My go-to is Sherwin Duration. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Jun 6, 2021 |
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Jun 6, 2021 23:21
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I had my guys painting my old place and did use the Behr single coat stuff from HD at $55/gallon and it took half as much as the professional painter expected and the light colour went straight over old darker paint without issue. Current place has a few cans left over from the builders from a local place that is just paint and it is ok for HDTV sell this house white and the exterior stuff from the same place doesn’t chip easily even with the dog jumping into walls after his ball.
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Jun 6, 2021 23:37
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BigPaddy posted:I had my guys painting my old place and did use the Behr single coat stuff from HD at $55/gallon and it took half as much as the professional painter expected and the light colour went straight over old darker paint without issue. Yeah, let me add, this is another huge consideration. I don't doubt that Behr is good paint, I've used it. In some formations I'm sure it's just as good. But one of the big things with quality paint and especially pro line paint I've found to be durability. You want to paint something flat and then clean it? Good luck with most consumer paints. You will end up with semi-gloss or even strait up gloss sections. Give Duration or similar a month to fully dry and you can scrub the poo poo out of it and it stays flat. The last time I painted with duration was my first time with a color that needed the ultra dark base. It was challenging to paint with, but turned out great. It's also the heaviest gallon of paint I've ever picked up. It's so heavy that my (decent quality Bosch) stud finder no longer works on those walls. I had to switch it over to metal detection to find drywall screws when hanging stuff. It's a LOT of solids.
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Jun 6, 2021 23:42
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Johnny Truant posted:Is there a recommended paint brand that goons gravitate towards? We got a bunch of swatches from Behr because... they had a big display of them at Home Depot, lol. For big box stuff, Behr Premium Plus was easy enough for me to “baby’s first painting job” my daughter’s nursery and have it look pretty good. I’m sure I mangled it to a discerning eye - I was YouTubing rolling technique between walls - but she’s a baby and will probably want to repaint it when she gets older anyway. I’ll go to a speciality shop when I want to paint over the super dark walls in my house though. Make sure you get all the stuff needed for prep work too.
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Jun 6, 2021 23:50
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Motronic posted:A lotta really great Motronic posted:advice, as usual  Thanks! I'm a bit confused by what you mean when you say "you will end up with semi-gloss or even straight up gloss sections". You mean the paint isn't durable enough that once you clean it, it'll look completely different?I'm definitely interested in learning about paint, and how to paint well. Is it a common tactic to use two different brands of paint for different areas? Like, what if I used the Sherwin Duration in the kitchen/dining area and then a more consumer-targeted paint for bedrooms? And you just don't recommend Sherwin so there can be more of it out there for you, I'm onto you Motronic!  Democratic Pirate posted:For big box stuff, Behr Premium Plus was easy enough for me to “baby’s first painting job” my daughter’s nursery and have it look pretty good. I’m sure I mangled it to a discerning eye - I was YouTubing rolling technique between walls - but she’s a baby and will probably want to repaint it when she gets older anyway. I’ll go to a speciality shop when I want to paint over the super dark walls in my house though. Nice, thanks! I've definitely been poking how-to videos about painting and the like. A video I watched talked about sanding first, painting, sanding again, then applying the final coat of paint. Is sanding... common? Or are there any recommended how-to paint videos/places I can go to learn more?
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Jun 6, 2021 23:54
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Democratic Pirate posted:For big box stuff, Behr Premium Plus was easy enough for me to “baby’s first painting job” I'm sure you did fine. The consumer paints will self level to some extent to smooth out errors/textures. At the cost of not being as durable. But it's just paint......you can paint it again if you need to.
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Jun 6, 2021 23:54
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Johnny Truant posted:
Yeah, cheaper flat paints tend to come up/wipe down when cleaning them so the surface texture after cleaning will leave you with a different sheen and texture. You'll literally see paint on your rag sometimes. Johnny Truant posted:I'm definitely interested in learning about paint, and how to paint well. Is it a common tactic to use two different brands of paint for different areas? Like, what if I used the Sherwin Duration in the kitchen/dining area and then a more consumer-targeted paint for bedrooms? That's a really good strategy honestly. Not every room needs that kind of durability, and even in consumer paints a semigloss/eggshell paint that you'll typically use in a kitchen isn't going to have the same level of cleaning issues as a flat paint would. I'm so used to painting with a known quantity that I just go for that all the time. I know how it works for the most part (ultra dar base was really EXTRA and surprising, but I figured it out pretty quick on the first coat). Johnny Truant posted:And you just don't recommend Sherwin so there can be more of it out there for you, I'm onto you Motronic! Yes, I have hoarded all stock from the factory so nobody else can use it. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 6, 2021 23:57
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Motronic nailed my feeling on paint. I've simplified my advice to this: "I'm the poor bastard who has to put it on the walls so I try to make my life easier and buy the best paint I can". Last time around it was Sherwin something or other for $60 a gallon. Same goes for brushes (Purdy), rollers (buy and toss), and tape. I also very much love the short extendable fiberglass extension I finally got for this house. You should get a hand masker too. Underrated tool.
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Jun 7, 2021 00:05
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StormDrain posted:Same goes for brushes (Purdy), rollers (buy and toss), and tape. I also very much love the short extendable fiberglass extension I finally got for this house. Oh absolutely all of this. Especially tossing rollers. Get good ones, but don't try to save them. StormDrain posted:You should get a hand masker too. Underrated tool. I tried one once and it slowed me down, but only because I'm been masking by hand for so long probably. If I learned how to use it it would save a lot of tearing/setting down rolls of tape. Of course, if I REALLY knew how to paint I wouldn't need masking at all. My buddy who painted for a living/does it on the side now is amazing at cutting in. It's an art. And I can't do that for long enough to do an entire room. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 7, 2021 00:25
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StormDrain posted:Motronic nailed my feeling on paint. I've simplified my advice to this: "I'm the poor bastard who has to put it on the walls so I try to make my life easier and buy the best paint I can". Last time around it was Sherwin something or other for $60 a gallon. Dope! I didn't know a good brush brand, so thanks. I was looking at Wooster cage rollers and their 2-4ft extension rod seems like it'd make painting a whole lot easier. What are good rollers, like microfiber? A specific brand? I didn't know what 'cutting' was until like three days ago  That hand masker tool looks wild, but it does look handy. I had actually never seen the smaller plastic tarp stuff that it can apply, drat! I do have a lot more learning to do, but I don't close until 6/25 and am still funemployed, so
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Jun 7, 2021 00:33
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Johnny Truant posted:Nice, thanks! I've definitely been poking how-to videos about painting and the like. A video I watched talked about sanding first, painting, sanding again, then applying the final coat of paint. Is sanding... common? Or are there any recommended how-to paint videos/places I can go to learn more? That’s probably the best way to do it, but I didn’t sand at all. I cleaned the walls and trim, spent forever taping off everything, cut in a wall, rolled it, cut in the next wall, rolled it, and so on and for forth. The I repeated the cutting and rolling the next day.
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Jun 7, 2021 00:36
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You want a box of TSP. Clean the walls with that. As far as roller/extensions.........your local pro paint store will probably only have good stuff like Purdy. If you go to a bix box store you are much more likely to be presented with choices that would be a mistake. Also.....frog tape/low tack is pretty great. What most people don't get right about taping is the burnishing part. Put the tape up and then go over it with a rubber scraper. https://www.amazon.com/3M-357-Bondo-Spreader-Pack/dp/B000BOC9K4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=bondo+scraper&qid=1623023005&sr=8-1
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Jun 7, 2021 00:43
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Motronic posted:Oh absolutely all of this. Especially tossing rollers. Get good ones, but don't try to save them. I only mask baseboard trim, windows and doors. A layer of tape 1/16 off of where I'm cutting in, and try my best never to get paint close to the tape. Masking paper and tape are just to catch splatter from the roller and the occasional drop from the brush. I tape the trim and then run the hand masker left to right through the room, placing tape on tape and absolutely blast through it, entire walls in one piece. Ideally you don't set the tool down while you use it. Crab walk from side to side, left hand secures tape. One of the jobs I realized I like because it's completely engaging and not that hard on the body. No time to worry about anything except what you're doing, and I absolutely will work straight on it and hate that I have to stop to eat.
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Jun 7, 2021 00:55
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StormDrain posted:I only mask baseboard trim, windows and doors. A layer of tape 1/16 off of where I'm cutting in, and try my best never to get paint close to the tape. Masking paper and tape are just to catch splatter from the roller and the occasional drop from the brush. Ahh, okay. I'm masking to the line and burnishing. I still try to keep paint off the tape. And yeah, I think I might need to spend some more time with a hand masker the next tie I'm doing something large.
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Jun 7, 2021 01:02
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Johnny Truant posted:Dope! I didn't know a good brush brand, so thanks. I was looking at Wooster cage rollers and their 2-4ft extension rod seems like it'd make painting a whole lot easier. What are good rollers, like microfiber? A specific brand? Start with a 2-1/2" angled brush then. A great all around brush, holds enough paint and is controllable for a tight edge. Dip it in the paint in your smaller paint cup, slap it against the sides to remove excess but don't do the slide against the rim thing. You're trying to put the paint on the wall, so make sure you leave a lot in the brush. Hold it like a pencil. Choke up. They give you a whole handle but you don't need it.
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Jun 7, 2021 01:19
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To add to StormDrain's post... A little paint cup like this with a magnet on it so you can put your brush there without dipping the entire thing on the bottom is really really great.
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Jun 7, 2021 01:25
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Oh yeah I have that cup and I love it.
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Jun 7, 2021 01:30
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