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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I'd be inclined to return it because I would be very suspicious that the car had been abused in myriad ways. This isn't a 70s Alfa transaxle, syncros on modern gearboxes very rarely go bad and basically never go bad in ordinary use. STR posted:Absolutely return it. That thing has been beat on bad. Oof, this is not what I wanted to hear. But I paid near MSRP for a 3 year old car in this hellmarket so I should expect something that hasn't been beaten to hell. Thanks to you both.
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Jun 4, 2021 21:15
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Do I remove the marinade off a steak before I cook it in a pan?
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Jun 5, 2021 20:47
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DildenAnders posted:Do I remove the marinade off a steak before I cook it in a pan? You don't need to, I don't.
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Jun 5, 2021 20:52
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DildenAnders posted:Do I remove the marinade off a steak before I cook it in a pan? Nope, also don't reserve and add it at the end either because it's been chilling on uncooked animal protein.
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Jun 5, 2021 20:52
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DildenAnders posted:Do I remove the marinade off a steak before I cook it in a pan? It's better to lick it off beforehand
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Jun 5, 2021 21:46
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yes you have to remove it. i just put it in the dishwasher, easy
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Jun 5, 2021 22:08
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Welp I didn't mean to post that here, but thanks for all the advice at any rate. The marinade didn't taste very good when I licked it off though...
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Jun 5, 2021 23:32
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sorry, should've mentioned that YMMV of course
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Jun 6, 2021 00:55
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2016 Honda HR-V. Whenever we have really heavy rain water ends up inside the rear tailgate, I can hear it sloshing around until I unscrew one of the rubber plugs and let it drain out. My best guess is that the water gets in where the trim meets the rear windshield, it looks like it's not quite flush and the weatherstripping isn't sealing fully. Any reason I shouldn't run a bead of clear silicone caulk along the entire length? Is there a product that would be better suited to the task?
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Jun 6, 2021 07:42
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Probably not the last but my ‘94 SVX has one which means the ‘97 does too. I’d guess some American truck that hadn’t changed much since the ‘80s but I could be wrong. My 2002 ZX2 has one because it's the last of the Escorts. I would guess something like the last Ranger before a generation change, yeah
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Jun 6, 2021 14:08
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According to wiki the last car in the US with an analog odometer was the 05 Crown Vic/Grand Marquis.
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Jun 6, 2021 15:17
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Toebone posted:2016 Honda HR-V. Whenever we have really heavy rain water ends up inside the rear tailgate, I can hear it sloshing around until I unscrew one of the rubber plugs and let it drain out. My best guess is that the water gets in where the trim meets the rear windshield, it looks like it's not quite flush and the weatherstripping isn't sealing fully. Glad to hear Honda hasn't fixed this poo poo in over 10 years lol. Maybe your car is still relatively new but on Fits the sealant eventually cracked which is what let the water in.  Maybe check some model specific forums, there can be a known weak spot on the HRV too.
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Jun 6, 2021 16:30
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Toebone posted:Any reason I shouldn't run a bead of clear silicone caulk along the entire length? Is there a product that would be better suited to the task? Might not look pretty but sikaflex or equivalent- you want something that remains slightly flexible, silicone will tend to go hard and crack/shrink/let stuff past due to everything else vibrating/flexing in travel
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Jun 6, 2021 16:44
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I have a BMW X3 and the Brake Backing disk/splash panel mounting points have corroded and failed on 2 of them meaning the plate rattles like a baking tray. To remove them means taking off the wheel, brake carrier, caliper and disc. I've got the torque settings for all the bolts and the service direcitions say the bolts need replaced if removed. I'm thihking of doing the work myself, removing all 4 plates, repiaring/reinforcing the mounting points and powder coating them before putting them back on. My question is this: How critical is it to use fresh bolts and how critical is the backing plate itself? Could I replace the original bolts and drive without the plates for a few days before using new bolts when I put them back on? Or is this something I ought to just leave to a professional?
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Jun 6, 2021 16:56
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I've seen that new caliper bracket bolt thing for as long as I can remember across tons of makes/models, and have never replaced them. I don't think anyone typically does, I've always understood it as more of a CYA type of thing.
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Jun 6, 2021 17:40
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Same. New bolts makes sense if the torque spec is torque to yield but I have yet to see a spec like that for a caliper bracket.
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Jun 6, 2021 21:08
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2014 Scion xB, 104,000 miles-ish The car has run fine since I got it 2 years ago. 1 previous owner. I bought it from CarMax and they did whatever they do before hand. The only thing I've had to do is put in a new battery every now and again (common here as the heat eats batteries) and the usual oil changes and consumables. It's been running fine, no weird noises or anything like that. Yesterday, we got in the car and no air was blowing through the vents. I tried all the various knobs and settings and no air at all would come out, no AC, no heat, not recirc, not even with the vents open. No sounds of fans or anything. Naturally I spent the evening setting up a service appointment and swearing because I know car AC work can run from "you're lucky it's only $500" to "lmao". This morning I went to run some errands and...everything spun right up, air blowing fine. The AC worked like it usually does (it takes a few minutes when it's 90 degrees out to start blowing cold air but I think that's pretty normal). I drove around and did several errands and everything worked fine. My gut tells me this is one of those things where I can pay a few hundred dollars to poke it and they can shrug at me. It could be the wave of hotter-than-usual hot weather. It's been raining a lot, too. Could just be older car gremlins. It's not making any weird noises or anything. I could also have them look at it next time I bring it in for an oil change, which could be 6 months-1 year off with as little as I'm driving post-pandemic. Or I could shrug and wait until it breaks if it's going to. But I wanted to get a second opinion.
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Jun 8, 2021 17:35
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I'd look up replacing the hvac fan Resistor for your vehicle and replacing that. That's the most common thing that stops your fan from moving (usually it will work on High though). I'd look at that or replacing your fan switch.. Intermittant issues are 100% load up the parts shotgun but those are going to be your most common.
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Jun 8, 2021 18:07
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Agreed, don't bother taking it in if it's intermittent. Good news is, sounds like it's blower fan related and not a/c related, so any fix should be relatively cheap, compared to a/c work.
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Jun 8, 2021 18:09
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Enos Cabell posted:Your post made me think happy thoughts of my old 99 Galant GTZ that was a really great car and served me well for many years on several cross country trips. Sending good Galant vibes your way. Late but thanks for the vibes. I got all new cheap tires, an oil change, a new key fob, the power locks fixed, new ceramic brakes. Today im going to the MVD and then tomorrow, detailing. The only thing that super sucks is the cigarette lighter port seems busted. Can't use my fancy new FM transmitter like that. I'll try to post a couple of pics sometime.
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Jun 8, 2021 18:10
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Dr. Kyle Farnsworth posted:2014 Scion xB, 104,000 miles-ish Was it hot yesterday when the AC didn't work? Then this morning it was probably much cooler right? Not a mechanic, but there's a few things I would personally check out. The fan not working in AC or Heat mode tells us it's a fan problem, not an AC problem, which is very good. If heat worked and AC didn't, that's when things probably get expensive. Something in the path that calls for the fan to turn on, or provides power to the fan is intermittently working. I'd probably be looking at the Relay that goes to the blower motor first as those are easy to check. You can check the fuses as well, but that's less likely. Those usually work, or they don't. Googling your issue though, it looks like the blower motor resistor is a common issue on these vehicles as there are tons of youtube videos and forum posts about the blower motor not working. This video pretty much covers the repair, which anyone should be able to do with very basic hand tools. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5t1XR3UebA edit: For less than 100 bucks in parts, and like 30 minutes of your time I'd probably just replace the blower motor and resistor all at once and see if that fixes it. The blower motor is cheap enough that you might as well replace it while you're in there, unless budget is a major issue. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jun 8, 2021 |
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Jun 8, 2021 18:12
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Thanks, goons, I'll look into that. edit: that's funny, mine is even that deep blue so it couldn't be a better guide. Again, thanks. Dr. Kyle Farnsworth fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jun 8, 2021 |
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Jun 8, 2021 18:56
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Why would a tow shop ask you if you were at fault in an accident and then ask if you have collision? Is it to ask if they need to charge you directly (my collision coverage is supposed to cover all towing/storage/etc)? I got into a crash last night that resulted in my undriveable vehicle being towed to a shop in that town and I just called to ask about cleaning my junk out of it/taking plates/etc. Also, assuming the car is totaled (its an 04, its totaled) whats the deal wrt selling it/parting it out/harvesting its guts? The insurance pays the shop to hold it during appraisal, etc but once its done Im assuming either the responsibility falls to the owner to move the car or ownership transfers to the insurance as part of the appraisal payout right? Does the shop get the car? I literally have no idea, nobody in my familys totaled a car like this before
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Jun 8, 2021 20:39
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Ok Comboomer posted:Why would a tow shop ask you if you were at fault in an accident and then ask if you have collision? The tow shop would ask you because they want to have some idea who is paying for the repair. Maybe they'd start preparing an estimate if you were paying for it, but they just need to store it somewhere if they're waiting for an appraiser to come out. If your insurance decides to total the car, they buy the car and assume ownership of it. They can do whatever they want with it at that point (sell it to a scrap yard, most likely). You can get your personal possessions, but you're not going to be able to, like, pull parts and sell them on ebay. If you have some custom parts on the car, you can negotiate with your insurance for how they affect the value of the car. Edit: if you really want to keep the car despite it being totaled, you can buy it back for the salvage value. Again, that's negotiated with your insurer. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jun 8, 2021 |
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Jun 8, 2021 20:45
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I got the oil changed in my new TT RS today (at 5,700 miles) because I didn't want to wait for the official 10K mile maintenance interval, and the shop found a coolant leak > <Turns out the belly pan is all streaked with dried crusty pink. Tech says it seems to be coming from the water pump but I didn't really want to pay for more labor to diagnose because it's clearly a warranty issue. They topped off the coolant and told me to get it to the dealership ASAP. Called the dealership and they somewhat reluctantly scheduled me for 2 weeks from now because warranty work  So the question: would you all be afraid to drive the car, or would you just drive it as normal since it's apparently been going on for a while?
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Jun 9, 2021 03:50
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On a brand new car that starts at $72k? Call the dealer and tell them to come pick it up and tow it for the repairs, and to bring you a loaner. If this was some cheap used car, I'd be fine driving it and keeping an eye on it. Not on a brand new high end car. Let it sit in their lot and piss off the service manager. Call Audi's customer relations if they won't do this. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jun 9, 2021 |
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Jun 9, 2021 04:02
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got off on a technicality posted:I got the oil changed in my new TT RS today (at 5,700 miles) because I didn't want to wait for the official 10K mile maintenance interval, and the shop found a coolant leak > https://www.audiusa.com/help/contact-us
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Jun 9, 2021 04:05
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Anyone tried hyperdip on wheels? Worth the premium? I plastidipped my old wheels, and it looked pretty good, but it needed a few minor touch ups after a year.
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Jun 9, 2021 04:39
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I guess this is a good a place as any to ask this - Lately on the motorway I have seen a few trucks (like a semi/18 wheeler size) with what looks like external brake lines. They are routed outside of the wheel and connect to the hub. What the heck am I looking at here? surely theyre not safety related as they look like they could be brushed off if the truck got too close to something.
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Jun 9, 2021 07:50
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slothrop posted:I guess this is a good a place as any to ask this - I think you're seeing pneumatic lines that control the tire PSI. e: 
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Jun 9, 2021 08:30
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VelociBacon posted:I think you're seeing pneumatic lines that control the tire PSI. Ahh yep. that first image is definitely what I've been seeing. Thanks!
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Jun 9, 2021 09:03
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Wow, I've always heard that central tire inflation systems were a maintenance nightmare, I know the Hummer guys tend to disable theirs when it breaks rather than repairing it, so I'm shocked to see it on semi trucks. Then again I guess if it prevents a load from getting sidelined for a few hours by a blowout it might be worth it.
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Jun 9, 2021 14:40
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semi tires are a lot more expensive, the gap between inflation system cost and additional wear on underinflated tires is probably bigger for semis than hummers
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Jun 9, 2021 15:21
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Not only that, but adjusting tire pressure based on payload is a great way to improve fuel efficiency and wear on the tractor/trailer.
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Jun 9, 2021 15:39
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A suspension issue has recently got my Nissan Murano deemed unsafe to drive. It's sitting at a shop in south carolina and I'm trying to get a salvage company to come take it and give me money. Problem is, the car has a Canadian title that I never registered in the US. I'm here on a student visa and the temporary nature of my stay rules made it so I could avoid doing this. Turns out this has screwed me as far as being able to sell the car to a salvage company or even get someone to take the drat thing off my hands. What should I do? Will it take forever to get the car registered?
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Jun 9, 2021 16:42
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Since the Murano was sold here in a more or less identical configuration I can't imagine it'd be a real technical hassle to import legally, but the costs involved will likely exceed salvage value. If it were an enthusiast car there would probably be dozens of people who'd be happy to have a parts car but the only Muranos anyone cares about parts supply for will be the weirdos collecting the convertibles.
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Jun 9, 2021 17:51
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MOVIE MAJICK posted:A suspension issue has recently got my Nissan Murano deemed unsafe to drive. It's sitting at a shop in south carolina and I'm trying to get a salvage company to come take it and give me money. Problem is, the car has a Canadian title that I never registered in the US. I'm here on a student visa and the temporary nature of my stay rules made it so I could avoid doing this. Turns out this has screwed me as far as being able to sell the car to a salvage company or even get someone to take the drat thing off my hands. You may have to pay the  to get an American title before you can pass it on.
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Jun 9, 2021 17:58
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wolrah posted:Wow, I've always heard that central tire inflation systems were a maintenance nightmare, I know the Hummer guys tend to disable theirs when it breaks rather than repairing it, so I'm shocked to see it on semi trucks. RadioPassive posted:semi tires are a lot more expensive, the gap between inflation system cost and additional wear on underinflated tires is probably bigger for semis than hummers Class8 hardware is significantly larger than what is used in a humvee allowing for more robustness via oversized components which reduce wear and failure points. One is also built for the military at a quality/price point, one built to do a job for 5yr/500k-mi at minimum. The humvee is also IRS/IFS whereas class8 is typically on live axle front/rear. Fewer moving parts, Lower complexity.
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Jun 9, 2021 18:14
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RadioPassive posted:semi tires are a lot more expensive, the gap between inflation system cost and additional wear on underinflated tires is probably bigger for semis than hummers semi tire prices are almost inconsequential. A quality tire costs $400, a full set $4,000(although steers don't wear the ame) and could last for 300,000 miles, You burn well over $100,000 worth of fuel in that same distance. Maintaining proper inflation levels for fuel efficiency is more important. cursedshitbox posted:Class8 hardware is significantly larger than what is used in a humvee allowing for more robustness via oversized components which reduce wear and failure points. Heavy trucks also already have robust air systems for the brakes/suspension. MOVIE MAJICK posted:A suspension issue has recently got my Nissan Murano deemed unsafe to drive. It's sitting at a shop in south carolina and I'm trying to get a salvage company to come take it and give me money. Problem is, the car has a Canadian title that I never registered in the US. I'm here on a student visa and the temporary nature of my stay rules made it so I could avoid doing this. Turns out this has screwed me as far as being able to sell the car to a salvage company or even get someone to take the drat thing off my hands. I don't know if you can do it in the states, but in Canada what people do is just drop it at an auction with it's importation and mechanical fitness status disclosed. someone will give you $300 for it. Alternatively, take it to the Pick-n-pull, those motherfuckers even take stolen vehicles.
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Jun 9, 2021 18:54
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Is there a rule of thumb whether you should get your car repaired at a dealership or at an independent mechanic?
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Jun 9, 2021 19:58
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