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My fun glue story was getting a load of glue into an open wound caused by assembling my old ful metal bloodthirster
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Jun 9, 2021 17:36
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I completely forgot that I recently spilled a good dollop of UV resin for 3d printing on my arm. Not super great in itself, but while I was grabbing some paper towels, the sunlight from my skylight hit it. I got a small burn and had a lovely time getting the semi cured stuff off.
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Jun 9, 2021 17:42
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Wrr posted:What is Nuln Oil and why does every talk about it? Is it just a wash, like these army painter washes I have? In fact Army Painter Dark Tone is intended to exactly match Nuln Oil. AP Light and AP strong tones were originally matches for the old GW brown and sepia washes but I think the formulas(and names) for those changed some time ago.
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Jun 9, 2021 18:03
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Electric Hobo posted:I completely forgot that I recently spilled a good dollop of UV resin for 3d printing on my arm. Not super great in itself, but while I was grabbing some paper towels, the sunlight from my skylight hit it. I got a small burn and had a lovely time getting the semi cured stuff off. Yeesh. Spilling paint is a nuisance, but resin is scary stuff. Also for those of you with a 3d printer I printed a bunch of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3421696 and now I fear tipping my nuln oil slightly less.
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Jun 9, 2021 18:32
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Cooked Auto posted:Had a loctite tube of glue explode on my fingers once from a burst in a seam, that was fun. Had spend a while scraping it off with a knife after dunking my hand in cold water. I heard somewhere, no idea if that's true, that if you put salt on superglue it melts or something. I never dared to tried, it sounds like a fake likehack.
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Jun 9, 2021 18:38
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Nuln Oil owns. I’m taking a break from my Thousand Sons and have started working on my soft reboot Necron army.  Very pleased with how they’re turning out so far, just waiting for the paint to finish curing and I’ll varnish them.
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Jun 9, 2021 18:39
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Furism posted:I heard somewhere, no idea if that's true, that if you put salt on superglue it melts or something. I never dared to tried, it sounds like a fake likehack. That one is certainly new to me. If I ever get another tube exploding in my hands I might give it a try.
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Jun 9, 2021 18:41
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I liked nuln oil for a long time then I got a bottle of Vallejo Metal Color - Jet Exhaust. It looks exactly like leadbelcher with a coat of nuln oil, but only way better because the pigments are smaller. If you look at the Bjorn/dread I posted a little while ago that's straight up just Jet Exhaust then edge highlighted with Chrome on the weapon bits, and the legs are just straight jet exhaust with no highlights because I'm lazy and not meticulously highlighting something no one but me will see.
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Jun 9, 2021 18:46
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Oh yeah I do the same things on the Space Marines backpack exhaust things all the time. But I use Pale Burnt Metal for the highlights, I think I'll pick up a bottle of Chrome to see if that looks better.
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Jun 9, 2021 19:09
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Bucnasti posted:AP Light and AP strong tones were originally matches for the old GW brown and sepia washes but I think the formulas(and names) for those changed some time ago. AP actually added the synonyms Soft and Dark to their wash lineup. I thought they'd just changed the formula on me, but the old ones are still produced.
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Jun 9, 2021 20:35
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I've changed my mind on nuln oil as of late. It works especially well in speed-painting situations since it applies so thinly, and the effect it has is subtle but works especially well with dark metals, tinting greys and I find it very useful when painting golds over dark colors.
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Jun 9, 2021 21:23
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My second hand gobbos, well, not all of them had hands. So after making some hook hands, the unit is now a stranded pirate crew. But they lacked a certain something.... The squig is sculpted from scratch using green stuff. Now they'll look the part as they melt after the first panic test!
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Jun 9, 2021 21:28
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My glue story: I take my glasses off to paint and do other hobby stuff. One time, when I was prepping a tiny man, I managed to get a big glob of super glue right in the middle of a lens and didn't notice until it had already cured. Luckily, I lived walking distance from a shop that sold solvent.
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Jun 10, 2021 02:02
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that is a fine looking squid, good job
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Jun 10, 2021 02:14
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I've discovered the secret to making metallic red so I ended up with these guys:  
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Jun 10, 2021 03:07
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I finally got around to finishing the Reaper Bones Peryton I did a mini-contrast tutorial with, as well as another painted in exactly the same way (but with different colors):  They join my original Peryton, painted  And a Reaper Bones Skeletal Manticore. Oddly enough, the body is PVC but the wings were hard (but not especially strong-feeling) plastic, so this is the most fragile Reaper mini I've ever owned. 
PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jun 10, 2021 |
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Jun 10, 2021 04:05
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DarkAvenger211 posted:I've discovered the secret to making metallic red so I ended up with these guys: KAAANEEEEDAAAAAA!
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Jun 10, 2021 04:05
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Jonny Nox posted:KAAANEEEEDAAAAAA! Beat me to it
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Jun 10, 2021 06:15
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lilljonas posted:My second hand gobbos, well, not all of them had hands. So after making some hook hands, the unit is now a stranded pirate crew. But they lacked a certain something.... owns.
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Jun 10, 2021 07:17
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a pale ghost posted:that is a fine looking squid, good job Lasting Damage posted:owns. Thanks! Going back to my teenage dream of a painted greenskin army is wreaking havoc on my historical painting though. It's very fun. :P Anyone have a good idea for basing? I'm thinking about something a little bit more interesting than just brown dirt, but still not extreme a la special resin bases.
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Jun 10, 2021 08:53
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Quick paint question, as I'm looking at getting back into painting figures. I've been doing scale modelling for years, and have a load of paint I use for airbrushing (mostly Tamiya, Vallejo model air, and Mr Hobby Color) - are any of these realistically suitable, or am I better off starting over? Currently looking at Vallejo model color as an alternative - assuming I'd have no issues using this over Mr Surfacer?
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Jun 10, 2021 11:07
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Nothing wrong with using non GW or AP paints. On my current project I'm using Vallejo Model Colours as well as a Model Master paint alongside my Citadel ones.
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Jun 10, 2021 11:18
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Spectral Elvis posted:Quick paint question, as I'm looking at getting back into painting figures. if you for whatever reason want an entirely separate set of paints for your minis, i think this vallejo game color beginner set is hard to beat: https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/sets/basic-en/introduction-72299/
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Jun 10, 2021 11:27
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Spectral Elvis posted:Quick paint question, as I'm looking at getting back into painting figures. I paint primarily with vallejo. Some of the model air paints are a tad on the watery side for painting with brushes, but the model colours are great and I use Vallejo Panzer Aces paints for a ton of both historical and fantasy painting. No need to think about starting from scratch, just think of it as branching out your model painting tools. You'll have use of the more brush-friendly paints for scale model painting, and you'll have toooons of use of airbrushing skills and paints for miniatures painting.
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Jun 10, 2021 14:29
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Painted this guy up in about 2 hours using mostly contrast paints. I was trying the "en grisaille" method that NOT JUST MECHAAA recently did a video on, where the general idea is that you prime black, use gray to add light sources,, and then value sketch finer details with lighter gray to white before applying contrast paints. I think it went fairly well although I realized I have a lot to learn about how to place highlights and add texture. Marco makes it look so easy but he's a drat genius. 
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Jun 10, 2021 16:47
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Mikey Purp posted:"en grisaille" method Did you find that this made a big difference? Ive been looking into this but it feels like its going to get the same effects as a zenithal but with more steps.
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Jun 10, 2021 17:00
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Mikey Purp posted:Painted this guy up in about 2 hours using mostly contrast paints. I was trying the "en grisaille" method that NOT JUST MECHAAA recently did a video on, where the general idea is that you prime black, use gray to add light sources,, and then value sketch finer details with lighter gray to white before applying contrast paints. I think it went fairly well although I realized I have a lot to learn about how to place highlights and add texture. Marco makes it look so easy but he's a drat genius. That looks really good to me for a first attempt at that style. That video has been on my list of techniques to try, it looks very interesting.
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Jun 10, 2021 17:06
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Dooooope. Also how is a Cyber-Armed Goro not a thing that Mortal Kombat has done yet??!
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Jun 10, 2021 17:47
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Two Headed Calf posted:Did you find that this made a big difference? Ive been looking into this but it feels like its going to get the same effects as a zenithal but with more steps. It's a subtle but definitely noticeable difference. Building up to pure white highlights where you want them seems to add more definition than a standard zenithal. It also seems much more powerful in cases where you want to have multiple lightsources on the model, do a lot of OSL, or anything other than the standard top-down lighting of zenithal.
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Jun 10, 2021 17:59
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Spectral Elvis posted:Quick paint question, as I'm looking at getting back into painting figures. Styrene is styrene, if it worked on plastic scale models it will work on GW miniatures and most plastic minis. There are a few exceptions for other brands, like you have to be careful what type of spray primer you use on Reaper Bones. Resin models might have problems with solvent based paints/primers I would test anything on spare resin bits before committing to an expensive model. The formulation of Vallejo Model color and Vallejo Game color is exactly the same, the only difference is what colors are available in each range, and in some cases just the names are different.
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Jun 10, 2021 18:24
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I've been working on a speedwaagh! The ork buggies are easily the funnest models I've painted, and I'm pretty happy with my work so far. Also, excuse my bad lighting in these photos. I'm working on getting a better setup for taking photos.      Edit: drat, zooming in with a camera sure does reveal the little mistakes I've made, haha. Padical fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jun 10, 2021 |
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Jun 10, 2021 20:41
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Anyone know if / tried Testors ELO for stripping models? I did a quick test on a blade guard I had laying around, soak the mini for about 15 seconds, took it out and gently used a toothbrush and it slid off. The one on the left had the same base coat as the right one. Then one on the right looks a little wet since I rinsed of the residue. Theres still some stuff remaining in the cracks of the model but I think another quick dunk and light brushing could get it off. Its obviously WAY more expensive than 99% IPA but the ease of use was stunning, just wondering if it will totally melt the models  /.https://www.testors.com/en/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/primers-top-coats-thinners-cleaners/paint-and-decal-remover 
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Jun 10, 2021 21:28
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Dunk some sprue in it and come back in a day.
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Jun 10, 2021 23:00
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I'm looking to get back into painting after some time off. I don't particularly care what I paint to start out as long as it's some kind of fantasy mini that I might one day use in a D&D game as the DM. I've seen quite a few bundles where you can buy a bunch of old minis that someone else has painted (poorly) for cheap, and I was wondering if I do go that route, if it's feasible to strip them back with turpentine or some other method before re-painting them.
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Jun 11, 2021 04:31
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Been working on finishing some mostly done projects this week. Got my Blood Ravens bikers done complete with their totally not "liberated" bikes   
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Jun 11, 2021 13:35
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PotatoManJack posted:I'm looking to get back into painting after some time off. I don't particularly care what I paint to start out as long as it's some kind of fantasy mini that I might one day use in a D&D game as the DM. I've seen quite a few bundles where you can buy a bunch of old minis that someone else has painted (poorly) for cheap, and I was wondering if I do go that route, if it's feasible to strip them back with turpentine or some other method before re-painting them. You can certainly do that, but if you just want cheap minis for D&D you might as well go with Nolzur’s Marvelous Miniatures. $5 will in most cases get you two pre-primed minis. They’re a great way to start out (or ease back into) painting to make sure you really want to keep going with it. If you do go and buy some old painted minis and need to strip them, I’ve had great luck with LA’s Totally Awesome, which you can get at dollar stores.
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Jun 11, 2021 13:37
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PotatoManJack posted:I'm looking to get back into painting after some time off. I don't particularly care what I paint to start out as long as it's some kind of fantasy mini that I might one day use in a D&D game as the DM. I've seen quite a few bundles where you can buy a bunch of old minis that someone else has painted (poorly) for cheap, and I was wondering if I do go that route, if it's feasible to strip them back with turpentine or some other method before re-painting them. Nothing wrong with buying cheap and stripping paint back off, you can get some great bargains doing that. Its how I buy a significant portion of my models! Theres a variety of ways of doing it, whats best depends on where you are in the world (eg SimpleGreen is a common recommendation in the US, but its less commonly available in the UK/also not cheap, personally I use denatured alcohol/methylated spirits, some people like 99% ethanol and so on) and to a slightly lesser extent what the minis are made of (there are chemicals that strip paint off metal figures like nobodies business but also would melt plastic figures for example, but they arent usually the common recommendations anyway. You used to get people insisting on using stuff like brake fluid which... I cant deny it works, but in much the same way that I'd agree that sticking your hand in a meatgrinder works to remove a hangnail). If you have a ultrasonic cleaner it makes things much faster, but is absolutely not required and I'm going to assume you dont. Dump the figures in a jar, cover with the solvent of choice (if you are worried about the solvent start with one figure you care least about as a test) leave for... some time. Depends on the solvent. Couple of hours, overnight, whatever. Fish a figure out, put in on a piece of kitchen towel, scrub with a toothbrush. Probably wearing rubber gloves would be best practice. If there is still paint left that doesnt want to come off, back in the jar it goes. Once its clean as its going to get (there may be some stubborn primer in recesses, but its not noticeable once you've painted the figure. I picked up a pack of interdental brushes to see if I can use them to get to places I cant reach with a regular brush or a toothpick, but havent stripped anything since. They are absolutely not necessary.) give it a quick rinse with some water and let it dry. Then take the toothbrush you've been using and either bin it or keep it with your solvent for next time. Do not use it on your teeth.
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Jun 11, 2021 14:09
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Speaking of stripping minis, I bought a redemptor off a guy at one of my LGSs and need to strip it. I bought a gallon of simple green and a five gallon bucket at home Depot. I plan on letting it soak with a lid on for like 36 hours (put in Friday afternoon take out Sunday morning) in my garage which gets kinda hot this time of year. Then I'm going to scrub it down with a cheap toothbrush and sink water. Then let it sit for a few days before painting it again. Any other tips or things to be careful of?
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Jun 11, 2021 14:09
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I'm getting into Age of Sigmar with the new edition, and I've got a Liberator I'm going to use as a test model. I'm thinking of a Copper/Red scheme (I'm thinking of doing a Stormhost of Paladins of the Common Man, basically) and I was wondering a) if that sounds like a good idea and b) what colour primer should I be using. I have Wraithbone, Chaos Black, Grey Seer, Leadbelcher and an Army Painter Brown. I'm thinking of nabbing the DarkStar copper triad for the army proper, but for my test model I'm using Vallejo Hammered Copper (72.059). I'm thinking of going with Red Terracotta (72.772) for the red.
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Jun 11, 2021 14:18
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PotatoManJack posted:I'm looking to get back into painting after some time off. I don't particularly care what I paint to start out as long as it's some kind of fantasy mini that I might one day use in a D&D game as the DM. I've seen quite a few bundles where you can buy a bunch of old minis that someone else has painted (poorly) for cheap, and I was wondering if I do go that route, if it's feasible to strip them back with turpentine or some other method before re-painting them. You could, but having done so a few times there are cheaper and better ways to get a bunch of minis that won't involve having to buy cleaning solutions and scrubbing away with a toothbrush. I had a moment when I was scrubbing a $2 reaper bones mini for the second time and thinking I would happily pay $2 not to be doing what I was doing. If you want a bunch of D&D minis, look up the adventure series board games. Game quality generally went up as time went by but mini quality took a nose dive. So if you were looking for minis, I'd suggest Ravenloft, Ashardalon or Drizzt, all of which regularly go on sale on Amazon for $30-40 and give a good variety of figures. Miniature Market also routinely throws the latest would be Games Workshop competitor's mini game on sale after it invariably flames out. Look for things made by CMON and you can expect okayish figures.
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Jun 11, 2021 14:37
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