|
Ornery and Hornery posted:Is there a rule of thumb whether you should get your car repaired at a dealership or at an independent mechanic? Warranty work: Dealer Everything else: Independent Go back to the dealer only when the independent shop says only the dealer can fix something.
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2021 19:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 00:44 |
|
|
Pretty much that, with slight variation depending on how "unique" your car is. If something is both unique and yet also just popular enough, you can probably find a specialized independent shop that focuses on whatever make/model you have and will do better work than random-rear end garage. If you fall into the edge case of something unique and relatively unpopular, dealers might stay the best option. I'm probably going to pay a dealer to do the timing belt on my Canyon when it's due because a) it requires a fuckload of special tools and b) the average shop doesn't even have an oil filter on hand for that truck, I really don't expect any place that isn't a dealer to have the special tooling for the belt.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 00:53
|
|
|
What is this rubber thing wrapped around my rear motor mount? I bought a 2017 Ford Taurus SHO from Carmax which has a 90 day warranty. Had a PPI done by my mechanic (which I’ve only really had do oil changes in the 2 years I’ve been going to them) and they told me the mount was bad and quoted to replace it and said rest of the car looked great. Declined and took to Carmax since it’s covered. The tech at Carmax said he didn’t see any problems. Brought me into the bay and showed me the mount and said the rubber piece looked like maybe it was a heat shield as it’s on the side close to the exhaust. He showed me both rubber mounts that the bolts were going through, no cracking or anything. Who is right? First pic from local shop inspection. Others mine from crawling under. Wish I had thought to take a video when it was on the lift. E: phone posting and trying to get photos to upload    
Loan Dusty Road fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jun 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 02:51
|
|
|
Ugh, got a check engine light in my '13 Audi A4 today. Again. P2188 too rich at idle. Hope it's something simple like a vacuum hose that gave up the ghost at 91k ish miles and just has to be replaced. It sounds like it could be somewhat challenging to troubleshoot. It's probably minor but just over the sensor threshold because I don't notice any major symptoms. It shakes a tiny bit at idle when hot but I chalked that up to being an old car. The minor shaking goes away when in gear, I only notice it in N or P. I'll take it to the dealer  anyone gotten that code?Do never get early 2010s German cars unless you like lightening your wallet. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Jun 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 04:04
|
|
|
May wanna cross post to the VW thread. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3298776&pagenumber=313&perpage=40
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 04:11
|
|
|
Google thinks it’s the high pressure fuel pump, but it could be quite a few things.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 05:07
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkAAMX4aO6w Could be that, dude is a pro, crazy how much real pros get done in a set amount of time. I see this in any field, any of the home remodeling threads, and stuff like this.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 06:08
|
|
|
Loan Dusty Road posted:What is this rubber thing wrapped around my rear motor mount? I bought a 2017 Ford Taurus SHO from Carmax which has a 90 day warranty. Had a PPI done by my mechanic (which I’ve only really had do oil changes in the 2 years I’ve been going to them) and they told me the mount was bad and quoted to replace it and said rest of the car looked great. Declined and took to Carmax since it’s covered. The tech at Carmax said he didn’t see any problems. Brought me into the bay and showed me the mount and said the rubber piece looked like maybe it was a heat shield as it’s on the side close to the exhaust. He showed me both rubber mounts that the bolts were going through, no cracking or anything. Idk but what are the symptoms? What's the problem you feel/hear/whatever while driving? Also what do new mounts look like and is this different? They don't sell Tauruses where I live, sorry I can't be more help
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 07:47
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:Ugh, got a check engine light in my '13 Audi A4 today. Again. P2188 too rich at idle. ten years and ~170k miles in a 2009 A4–that went through like $12k in work, three years of fighting with Audi about warranty, two transmissions, like 55% of the engine being replaced between a combination of a recall and the aforementioned warranty poo poo, did I mention two transmissions?, and a gorillion bottles of oil—is why my mom’s boss was able to talk my dad into a Model 3 last year with remarkable ease. TBH I dunno if I’m that keen on a GTI to replace the CRV anymore....Mazda3 it is, I guess?
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 12:35
|
|
|
Loan Dusty Road posted:What is this rubber thing wrapped around my rear motor mount? I bought a 2017 Ford Taurus SHO from Carmax which has a 90 day warranty. Had a PPI done by my mechanic (which I’ve only really had do oil changes in the 2 years I’ve been going to them) and they told me the mount was bad and quoted to replace it and said rest of the car looked great. Declined and took to Carmax since it’s covered. The tech at Carmax said he didn’t see any problems. Brought me into the bay and showed me the mount and said the rubber piece looked like maybe it was a heat shield as it’s on the side close to the exhaust. He showed me both rubber mounts that the bolts were going through, no cracking or anything. I can't see any cracks in the bushings, and it looks like that's some insulation or something that comes with the stock part. (Path on RockAuto: FORD > 2017 > TAURUS > 3.5L V6 Turbocharged > Engine > Motor Mount Kit) 
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 14:11
|
|
|
There is no rubber strap pictured like that on the part on official ford parts sites. The Chilton's manual makes no mention of it in the R&R process of it. BTW, it is called a "roll restrictor" in there. Pain to find. To me, mount looks fine. Who knows what it does. I don't see how that would aid in assembly on the line. If the mount was ever replaced looks like you just wrap the old one around the new part. Perhaps it is for harmonics dampening or something.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2021 15:44
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
I finally completed replacing the steering gear and power steering pump on my 73 Cutlass Supreme. Seems like everything is fine, but the steering wheel is a couple of degrees off when the car is driving straight. Can I fix this by disconnecting the rag joint, rotating the steering shaft a couple of degrees, and re-connecting it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2021 03:51
|
|
|
PeterCat posted:I finally completed replacing the steering gear and power steering pump on my 73 Cutlass Supreme. Seems like everything is fine, but the steering wheel is a couple of degrees off when the car is driving straight. There is usually a flat spot on the steering shaft that the set screw rests against, it's not an area of adjustment. Assuming you mean you replaced the steering box, is the pitman arm keyed to go on at a certain angle? that may be what changed. If so, if it's only a few degrees, that would be corrected at the tie rods with an alignment. Also, let's see that beast
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2021 03:57
|
|
|
If it's like my '70 C10, then the pitman arm is keyed at 90 degree intervals, the steering box input shaft isn't "keyed" but has the flat spot you mention, and the steering wheel splines at the top end of the column are not keyed at all.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2021 04:17
|
|
|
^^^^^^^ Mine is the same set up, 70s GM power steering. The pitman arm only goes on one way, I found the center on the steering box by turning the spot where it connects to the steering shaft from stop to stop, counting the turns, and stopping half way. I installed the pitman arm on the steering box and connected the pitman arm to the steering linkage with the front wheels pointed straight ahead. The flat part on the shaft from the box to the steering shaft didn't line up to the set screw so I just tightened it down where it was. I've seen Youtube videos of guys just filing a flat spot where it lined up during assembly. So, as far as I can tell I should be able to adjust the steering shaft to get the wheel straight, but I am going to take it to a shop for an alignment anyway. Powershift posted:There is usually a flat spot on the steering shaft that the set screw rests against, it's not an area of adjustment. Assuming you mean you replaced the steering box, is the pitman arm keyed to go on at a certain angle? that may be what changed. If so, if it's only a few degrees, that would be corrected at the tie rods with an alignment. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2021 14:03
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2021 14:14
|
|
|
I can't find Motronics awesome annual "it's not freon" auto AC thread this year so hope this is the right place. The OP of the most recent thread I can find is gone so I've been doing this so far based on what I remember from those threads and google. I have a '96 F150 5.0 with R134 AC. It has 68k, I'm the second owner. The first owner was an older man, and old dudes around here are legendary for never using AC (or even having it in their trucks if at all possible). I doubt it was run much under previous ownership. Ever since I've had it, the compressor has never engaged with AC selected. I'm considering using it as a daily driver for the next six months or so and Maryland gets pretty swampy so I'd like to get it running again. I purchased a set of gauges and hooked them up this morning. high/low pressures with engine off were zero. Ambient temp is about 70 with it probably well into the 80's in the garage later in this process. With the engine running I added some R134 without tilting the can until I couldn't get anymore in there, then jumped the low pressure switch and started adding more. I added the rest of the 12oz can of R134 and then un-jumped the low pressure switch, at that point it ran on its own but was short cycling. After 2 full cans it's not short cycling anymore and is blowing cold air, and my low side pressure is 29 and high side is about 180. With the engine off the pressures equalize to 80 PSI on high and low sides. Questions -Am I still low on R134? I think so. I had zero pressure initially and the under hood AC info sticker has a max charge weight of about double what i just added. -The high pressure line on the compressor by the valve is about 145f per my temp gun. Vent temps in the cabin are quite chilly, in the 30's according to my temp gun. This suggests undercharging? -The high pressure valve (see pic) is leaking/spitting oil and whatnot. It's a threaded fitting on one end and something else on the other. Is this a DIY job to replace? I can't audibly hear it leaking with the valve cover on but I bet it is. I think I need to have the system evacuated (can I do this myself if I buy a vacuum pump?), fix the valve (not sure how to deal with the fitting) and then recharge with oil and freon. I'm fine with buying a few tools to do this myself, but if I need to go to a shop for some aspect it seems like it'd make sense to just have them do it all. Not sure if this is a practical DIY project. Are there any other components I should proactively replace when the system is empty again for the valve fix? sanchez fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Jun 12, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2021 17:12
|
|
|
sanchez posted:Questions - Yes. - Yes. - Maybe, but you need special tools to do that without evacing the system. And no, you can't evac a system with a vac pump. You need a recovery machine for that. Replace the dryer. If you really want to get into it replace all the o-rings where you can (like wherever hard lines disconnect).
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2021 17:31
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:There's always the kastein method of dumping a bunch of children's craft beads in your tires and letting them balance themselves (until they ablate your TPMS sensors, that is). it was funny and it kind of worked but trip report: 0/10 Do Not Do This Use ceramic balancing beads, metal BBs, maybe plastic airsoft beads. Kids pony beads are absolutely not the right answer. They didn't balance worth poo poo, I assume because the funny shapes made them bounce around weird instead of rolling to the light spot, and when I dismounted the tires years later I was greeted by a faceful of pony bead powder. There was much coughing. Pony bead powder does NOT get you high, either. gently caress that poo poo. My answer to home tire mount questions is that I bought a 300 dollar craigslist tire mount/dismount machine from a local auto shop that upgraded their equipment, and a 250 dollar facebook marketplace tire balancing machine from a different shop. Since it costs about 100 bucks a set to get tires mounted and balanced and I'm paying only materials and labor to myself, it only took 5.5 sets of tires to pay them off. I think I'm half a set away at this point. By far the best part is schedule freedom though, I don't have to take time off work or load stuff up and drive the truck and take them over on my lunch break, I can have my tires shipped to home, toss em in the truck and go to my hangar at 3am to mount my tires if that's what works for me. And I can balance as exactly or imprecisely as I want, depending on what they're for, and burnout tires cost me just the disposal fee now if I want to make some tire smoke.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2021 18:19
|
|
|
oooh, yeah, that's the stuff. so awesome
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2021 19:34
|
|
|
Powershift posted:oooh, yeah, that's the stuff. The Caravan GT in the background would probably take it in the quarter though. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2021 19:47
|
|
|
Motronic posted:And no, you can't evac a system with a vac pump. You need a recovery machine for that. Well that sucks, I had to fill it to figure out where it was leaking but filling it makes it impossible to responsibly fix the leak. I'll take it in somewhere, looks like that valve can be replaced independently of the hose and costs $8 so shouldn't be a big deal. Will make sure they replace the dryer too. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2021 23:40
|
|
|
sanchez posted:Well that sucks, I had to fill it to figure out where it was leaking but filling it makes it impossible to responsibly fix the leak. I'll take it in somewhere, looks like that valve can be replaced independently of the hose and costs $8 so shouldn't be a big deal. Will make sure they replace the dryer too. Thanks! This isn't realistic for most people who aren't doing a lot of AC work/don't have a bunch of other stuff around, but the environmentally best way to test if a system will hold/find leaks is with a dry gas like nitrogen. Even small shops don't typically have this and just shoot the ting full of refrigerant and dye with their automated robinaire machine, use a UV flashlight to find the leaks, then tell the machine to recover. (I want one of those machines so bad, but it's not worth the cost or shop space).
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2021 23:51
|
|
|
I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic that has started making a CLUNK noise from the front left side when I have the wheel turned and accelerate from a stop. I feel like this is a pretty common symptom of a specific issue but my googling isn't pinpointing anything. Thoughts on what it could be, and can an aspiring mechanic with zero skills (me) fix it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2021 04:03
|
|
|
Hughmoris posted:I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic that has started making a CLUNK noise from the front left side when I have the wheel turned and accelerate from a stop. I feel like this is a pretty common symptom of a specific issue but my googling isn't pinpointing anything. Can you get both front wheels in the air and on jack stands? This is step one to figuring it out. Push/pull on the wheels with your hands at 9:00 and 3:00 to see if the tie rods/steering box are clunking/loose. 12:00 and 6:00 to check bearings. This is a coarse test, you proceed from there based on what you find.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2021 04:09
|
|
|
Could also be the front sway bar linkage no? I'm not familiar with those cars. Does it happen when you go over speedbumps diagonally? Rock the poo poo out of the car before you jack it up by grabbing the underside of the wheel well and getting it going back and forth as much as you can.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2021 04:29
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Could also be the front sway bar linkage no? This is also a very good possibility.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2021 04:32
|
|
|
Thanks for the ideas. I (currently) do not have any jack stands but I'll get out there tomorrow and start rocking the poo poo out of it to see if it makes any noise, and I'll listen for the noise next time I go over a speedbump.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2021 04:41
|
|
|
Hughmoris posted:Thanks for the ideas. I (currently) do not have any jack stands but I'll get out there tomorrow and start rocking the poo poo out of it to see if it makes any noise, and I'll listen for the noise next time I go over a speedbump. Ideally drive over the speedbump diagonally so that each front wheel is hitting it at different times, if you do it at the same time it doesn't do anything with the swaybar.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2021 04:57
|
|
|
It almost sounds like it might be an outer CV joint. Does it do it on smooth corners? Does it do it worse if you accelerate harder? It could also be a variety of loose bushings and joints in the suspension, of course.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2021 06:11
|
|
|
I'm not the world's greatest engineer but could someone explain to me why the bolt on the accessory belt tensioner pulley would loving unthread when turned in the same direction as needed to replace the belt?
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 00:56
|
|
|
Based on my experience with serpentine belt tensioners, its because that's not where you're supposed to release the tensioners from. I've always seen a square hole that will fit either a long skinny tool, or in a pinch a ratchet extension. Usually 3/8" drive.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 01:01
|
|
|
AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Based on my experience with serpentine belt tensioners, its because that's not where you're supposed to release the tensioners from. I've always seen a square hole that will fit either a long skinny tool, or in a pinch a ratchet extension. Usually 3/8" drive. hmm, there's nothing I can find on this 2004 Saturn Vue that fits the description. Even the guides online tell me to turn the center bolt on the pulley itself with a serpentine tool. It worked fine the first time and the second time it unscrewed itself while I was doing so. edit: If I had my fingers where this guy had his when my center pulley bolt came loose, I'd have lost my thumb: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMWizr37l80&t=75s Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Jun 14, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 01:11
|
|
|
Quick sanity check, if you don't mind. 2015 Volvo S60 T5 AWD. Rims already had a fair amount of curb rash on them. Nasty pothole that I really took a chunk out of the sidewall (looks like it was already damaged and I hadn't noticed, I'll definitely be looking more carefully in the future). Stock wheels and tires are 17x7.5 with a +55mm offset. Stock tire size is 235/45/R17 and 235 is an odd size that tends to cost more so a lot of people run 240/40 or 245/45 on the stock wheels. I'm looking at 18x8" rims with a +50 offset and 245/40/R18 tires. I measured and everything will fit, plus I don't want to go with anything extreme but I think the 17" rims and 235/45 look a bit small on the car and these will look better. The rims I'm looking at are Sparco DRC, which fit my criteria of reasonably affordable and not aggressively ugly like most aftermarkets do. Does that sound reasonable?
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 02:25
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Quick sanity check, if you don't mind. That should work well. Half an inch more poke, the speedo will be a mph short at 60. This site is GREAT for this kind of thing, it's the only one I've found without a million ads that factors in wheel width and offset: https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.p...th=8&offset2=50 E: 
glyph fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Jun 14, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 14:41
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:hmm, there's nothing I can find on this 2004 Saturn Vue that fits the description. Even the guides online tell me to turn the center bolt on the pulley itself with a serpentine tool. It worked fine the first time and the second time it unscrewed itself while I was doing so. Guess GM didn't get the memo on left hand threaded bolts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 17:09
|
|
|
Toyota Prius Eco, 2021 Is there a way to get these dash buttons to light up so we can see them at night? I can't seem to find it or the correct search terms.  Sorry for potato quality photo. They have little green LEDs that light up, but nothing that makes the button illustrations visible.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 17:58
|
|
|
effika posted:Toyota Prius Eco, 2021 The dashboard dimmer is a switch on the bottom of the dash, to the left and below the steering wheel. This is a video from 2017 so the logo on the button may have changed, but it's probably in the same general area: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0kf665DJ2U
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 18:06
|
|
|
glyph posted:That should work well. Half an inch more poke, the speedo will be a mph short at 60. Thanks! That is a great site.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 18:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 00:44 |
|
|
My friend’s father has dementia and no longer drives his ~2010 Ferrari California. What are some common problems that come with leaving one of those (or any car) in a garage for years without driving it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2021 18:57
|
|
