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Unseasonably warm, so taking the opportunity to boat.   
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Jun 6, 2021 10:17
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n0tqu1tesane posted:
Look man, you're rich. We get it. No need to rub that poo poo in our collective faces.
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Jun 6, 2021 12:17
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Congrats on invoking Poe's Law in the thread about possibly the only hobby more expensive than airplanes or auto racing
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Jun 6, 2021 18:45
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sharkytm posted:Look man, you're rich. We get it. No need to rub that poo poo in our collective faces. Sorry for flaunting all that pressure treated lumber, I know things are rough with how expensive it is these days. Fortunately I was able to use scrap from other construction to build the bench.
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Jun 6, 2021 20:09
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That being said if someone would like to float me 20k I would be MORE than happy to buy a boat and be in your flotilla. Edit: Lower Chesapeake Bay!  Asking me to be a mate on your boat is fine, too. My cost is rum. Just rum. Mmm…rum. (Joking but not joking) dialhforhero fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 6, 2021 22:55
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I think you've got that backwards Crew brings beer for themselves and everyone else, captain brings the boat and sandwiches (regular crew should expect to do 1-2 work days per season at the beginning/end of the season, pick your own definition of regular crew, plus half a work day (+ or more) for travel regatta) If you go home with glass or a trophy, then rum payment is involved. Captain always buys the crew a round at the bar after every regatta no matter what That said, all my crew moved away due to covid, I'm looking for bay area crew soonish, probably Wednesday or Friday night beercan races Hadlock fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 7, 2021 02:30
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Round these parts captain brings the boat and the booze, and buys a round at the club bar post race.
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Jun 7, 2021 02:47
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Just arranged to buy 5 assorted blocks off CL for $90 rather than the $300 they would have cost new. Is this winning at boat ownership? Next up replacing alarmingly frayed main halyard. Waffling between $55 for 100' of yacht braid or $250 for 600'. Like, I'm going to need to replace the spin and jib hallys soon enough, but what if I want different colors!? Nichol fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jun 8, 2021 |
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Jun 8, 2021 21:13
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Personally I'd put dyneema in the mast section and then splice on colored ends. At least that's how my boat does it. Dyneema has come way down in price
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Jun 9, 2021 03:26
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Hadlock posted:Personally I'd put dyneema in the mast section and then splice on colored ends. At least that's how my boat does it. Dyneema has come way down in price Like I'm not particularly worried about stretch or anything and even 3/16 dyneema is 3x the price of 3/8 sls
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Jun 9, 2021 04:40
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We had a goon not too long do an electric conversion of a honda right? Well I am planning on doing an electric conversion of my sailboat and wanted to see if there was any knowledge to be gained from that old thread.
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Jun 10, 2021 23:00
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wargames posted:We had a goon not too long do an electric conversion of a honda right? Well I am planning on doing an electric conversion of my sailboat and wanted to see if there was any knowledge to be gained from that old thread. Sailing Uma is electric, they had videos about it and a write up: https://www.sailinguma.com/electro-beke
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Jun 10, 2021 23:08
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wargames posted:We had a goon not too long do an electric conversion of a honda right? Well I am planning on doing an electric conversion of my sailboat and wanted to see if there was any knowledge to be gained from that old thread. 48 volts, lifepo4 batteries, check out "Sailing Uma" (e;fb  ), especially the later videos. diysolarforum has some info on what aliexpress sellers are good for batteries, and who to absolutely avoid. Do your research before buying batteries, DO NOT buy the "first and best" cells you find, and build your own pack unless you love pissing away money. You can build a reasonable battery bank with 272/280 Ah lifepo4 cells, a 16s pack of those give you 14 kWh raw capacity, 12 kWh usable if you want them to last, peak power output is 1C, so about 13-14kW over a fair amount of the SOC range. You'll need a contactor-based BMS, and a good charger setup for lithium. Keep your old 12V/24V system for navigation and lights, use a DC-DC charger from the 48V system. There are some caveats for solar with a 48V battery bank, in that most MPPT controllers are buck, not boost, so you need a Voc at least 5V above your battery voltage, that means multiple panels in series, that can get annoying.
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Jun 10, 2021 23:13
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There's an alarming number of electric sailboat groups on Facebook. A lot of people get burned buying "CALB" batteries from some fly by night Alibaba supplier. Good luck. As with all things in this industry, you get what you pay for Lifepo4 batteries have really dropped in price recently, so that's a plus
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Jun 10, 2021 23:37
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well I do have 34 310ah cells coming in and will be running a 48v system for the motor, already spent 5 months poking at this but i was more looking for the configs on the motor controller the other dude used. I am going to be using a HPEVS ac34x2 and that can suck down some amps. So the 2x 16s may not provide enough amps and may need a third bank. As for solar I am going to be doing 2x 48v solar panels in series to start each panel doing 410+ watts. quote:You'll need a contactor-based BMS Well those seem like a pain in butt and Daly bms once you update the firmware aren't terrible and can do 300a. But if you can suggest one i am open to looking at them. quote:Sailing Uma over volted their older motor and had issues with that. wargames fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jun 10, 2021 |
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Jun 10, 2021 23:44
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I'm phone posting right now, but be careful about daly for propulsion use, at least run twin banks. How big is the boat? I'll be happy to spar on solutions etc, but it being 1am here, it's a bit late to dig into right now I'm an EE with maritime and industrial experience, fwiw.
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Jun 10, 2021 23:59
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wargames posted:well I do have 34 310ah cells coming in and will be running a 48v system for the motor, already spent 5 months poking at this Plz post pics as you make progress I'm consistently amazed at people doing this, besides their batteries being way under what they paid for, I always expect some sort of groverboat and then things don't catch on fire and it generally works as expected
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Jun 11, 2021 00:04
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Wibla posted:I'm phone posting right now, but be careful about daly for propulsion use, at least run twin banks. Its going to be 2 different 300amp banks. with 3/0 gauge wire running to 2x Victron Energy Lynx 1000amp Distributors. One of these will just be for battery the other one that is hooked up will be for the motor controllers and invertor/charger. I am thinking of doing one of the mpp 48v invertor/charger/mppt or growatt. power graph of the motor i am thinking about https://www.hpevs.com/Site/power_graphs/imperial/peak/pdf/ac-34x2/48%20volt/650%20amp/AC-34X2%2048%20volt%20650%20amp%20imperial%20peak.pdf motor controller http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/Manuals/1234_36_38%20Manual%20Rev%20Feb%2009.pdf additional notes by curtis http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/images/companies/1/Sailboat%20Instructs%20Curtis%202021B.pdf?1616186980810 Hadlock posted:Plz post pics as you make progress I mean I got the hot water working but that is because my deck shower in the cockpit had a lovely o ring on hot water side and didn't pressurize the system just dumped water into the blige. But the wiring is also boned as hell on the 120v side which will be fixed when I install the invertor/charger. Right now i just dropped 4.5k on batteries but up next is the BMS and Invertor/charger on buy list along with wiring stuff. wargames fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 00:11
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Water strainer came in for the Air Conn because yes my boat has Air conn 
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Jun 11, 2021 23:14
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gently caress, thats a nice looking piece. Also, boat A/C owns, gently caress the haters.
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Jun 12, 2021 01:15
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https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=3353483 running the 3/4 in stuff and defender is the best website. Like i had to redo my forestay because of halyard wrap, and didn't cost me too much for 58 foot of cable.
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Jun 12, 2021 01:21
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I'm working at a bote dealership right now, so I have donovan and land n sea to order from instead right now. Defender is good though. Great lake skipper and Boat Outfitter are also excellent sources.
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Jun 12, 2021 02:07
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Elmnt80 posted:gently caress, thats a nice looking piece. Also, boat A/C owns, gently caress the haters. My boat has A/C though it's not currently ducted into the boat. Previous owner never used it. I'm going to have the yard look at it and see if it works
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Jun 12, 2021 02:33
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Karma Comedian posted:My boat has A/C though it's not currently ducted into the boat. Previous owner never used it. I'm going to have the yard look at it and see if it works i think mine is low on r22, but we'll find out.
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Jun 12, 2021 03:00
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I've also been considering moving to LFP, but just for my house bank, and in my case I think 12V 100 Ah will be sort of overkill. That's like 1.3 kWh, and my daily consumption is typically around 200 Wh or maybe a bit more. For such a small bank the BMS and the DC-DC charger will cost more than the cells will (including shipping). Just having a hard time choosing a BMS; Daly seems okay but even their smallest models are kind of big and expensive for my needs. Overkill is a lot cheaper but I can't find it for sale in the EU. GWL's BMS123 Smart seems really nice, nicer than Daly and also takes less space (modules attached directly to the cell terminals) but again pretty expensive. Victron's got some really nice integrated solutions that are both BMS and DC-DC charger in one, but they only work with their own batteries. For DC-DC charging though Victron does have some pretty attractive options; their Orion things seems like just the ticket. e: electrodacus might be it? wonder if they ship here... TheFluff fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 13:45
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I know resident forums destructive tester CSB has been super happy with his victron gear.
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Jun 12, 2021 13:53
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wargames posted:Its going to be 2 different 300amp banks. with 3/0 gauge wire running to 2x Victron Energy Lynx 1000amp Distributors. One of these will just be for battery the other one that is hooked up will be for the motor controllers and invertor/charger. I am thinking of doing one of the mpp 48v invertor/charger/mppt or growatt. Two banks is good, that gives you some redundancy if one BMS trips out, as well as 600A sustained and probably 1200A short-term current capability depending on the cells you pick. I would avoid a FET-based BMS, I'll see if I can find a decent contactor-based one, but they do cost a bit. Victron makes solid gear, I always recommend them first, I'm a bit more leery about using an all in one for a boat, though. With 40+Voc solar panels, you will want an MPPT that can do 120V, so you have some headroom. TheFluff posted:I've also been considering moving to LFP, but just for my house bank, and in my case I think 12V 100 Ah will be sort of overkill. If you intend on keeping the boat for a long time, going LFP might not be a bad idea, I would consider going for a larger battery, too, it doesn't cost all that much more if you're already going to build it yourself. But with that sort of power budget, a decent deep cycle 100-150 Ah lead acid battery would probably do the trick, too.
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Jun 12, 2021 15:06
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TheFluff posted:I've also been considering moving to LFP, but just for my house bank, and in my case I think 12V 100 Ah will be sort of overkill. are you using dc-dc to charge the start batteries? Wibla posted:Two banks is good, that gives you some redundancy if one BMS trips out, as well as 600A sustained and probably 1200A short-term current capability depending on the cells you pick. I would avoid a FET-based BMS, I'll see if I can find a decent contactor-based one, but they do cost a bit. Victron is good but 3x what mpp and growatt charge but for their invertor/charger. https://watts247.com/product/spf-3000tl-lvm-48p/ like this is invertor/charger/mppt for 700 https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/catalogs/LVX6048WP.pdf but i am probably going with this as its ip67 water proof and i think going to end up being 1,400. https://a1solarstore.com/longi-445w-solar-panels-144-cell-lr4-72hph-35.html for solar me and other marina buddies are going to probably group buy some 80"x40" solar and start out with 2x on my boat. --------------------------------- onto boat progress  gently caress you lovely old ford-lehman 4d61  Water strainer goes here  old hose that fused/melted onto the fittings  Time for a break      ASSEMBLE  Old hardware matches new hardware  Water goes into the strainer  water does not come out of the boat, and did turn the one valve to open and still nothing, so i think the water pump is toast/clogged. So thinking plop this into place and see where the next failure point is, not its not the blower on the A/C that thing works! no sure about the A/C compressor. Though i may have a seacock on the exit for the A/C that might be closed unsure. https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=iwaki-america-magnetic-drive-raw-water-pump-600-gph&path=-1%7C51%7C2234226%7C2234240&id=2308340 ---------- Also why is this thread not call Aquatic insanity? wargames fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 20:02
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wargames posted:Victron is good but 3x what mpp and growatt charge but for their invertor/charger. How are you mounting those panels? Be mindful of the voltage ranges for the MPPT, the 6048 starts at 120V, that's 3 of those panels in full sun in series before it even starts charging, as soon as you get any shading it'll drop off to 0. Buy one of the all-in-ones for grid charging and inverter duties, but hook the panels up to a Victron 100/20-48, it's actually pretty reasonably priced. wargames posted:Also why is this thread not call Aquatic insanity? Now that's a good question 
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Jun 12, 2021 21:19
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Wibla posted:How are you mounting those panels? Not mounting anytime soon but going to get an arch built. Also i have seen/heard that the 100v mppt from victron has been doing alot of RMA's and the 150v are the go to. good catch on the min voltage, So it is looking like growatt is the go to even if its only 3kw https://watts247.com/manuals/gw/Growatt%20SPF%203000TL%20LVM%20Datasheet.pdf?x65773 700 with mppt vs 1800+150 for the 3kw invertor/charger + mppt https://www.altestore.com/store/inv...E#VICQUAT483000 or 2500 + 150 https://www.altestore.com/store/inv...E#VICQUAT485000 don't get me wrong victron is awesome, just pricey when you have other actors pulling down the price hard, and not making a terrible product. even renogy is jumping in on the cheap all in ones, invertor/charger/mppt https://www.renogy.com/48v-3500w-so...kRoCoKAQAvD_BwE wargames fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 21:50
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I hadn't heard those 100/20 models had a lot of RMA's, but it wouldn't surprise me - they're in that iffy area where you can hit overvoltage real easy if you're not very careful with panel selection. I'd go for the growatt, then, it seems to fit the bill. And you don't have to run all Victron. If you had to get that IP67 MPP solar all in one, you could combine it with a Victron MPPT to get the voltage range you want for the solar panels. Can you turn off the inverter on the growatt? so only the solar charger is active? If not, I would get a separate MPPT regardless.
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Jun 12, 2021 22:14
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Wibla posted:
Think so you can turn off the inverter or do something in the setting, I do see the stand by power for the invertors talked about is 28w. I may also go beyond 2 panels because going all electric has nice power demands. other progress, bump stop for the steering got pulled because its a rusty scaly mess, and i need to figure out a fab to make it in aluminium 6061 or 6063.  
wargames fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 22:25
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wargames posted:Think so you can turn off the inverter or do something in the setting, I do see the stand by power for the invertors talked about is 28w. I may also go beyond 2 panels because going all electric has nice power demands. I just read the manual, and you can, so that's good! 800W of solar will probably not be enough, that's fair. At the same time you don't really have a lot of convenient places to put large 60/72-cell solar panels on a monohull, so you might have to resort to a separate boost MPPT charge controller. This might be suitable.
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Jun 12, 2021 22:40
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wargames posted:other progress, bump stop for the steering got pulled because its a rusty scaly mess, and i need to figure out a fab to make it in aluminium 6061 or 6063. Why not just clean it up and coat it? From the pictures it doesn’t look like there’s anything horribly wrong with it.
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Jun 12, 2021 22:56
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Wibla posted:If you intend on keeping the boat for a long time, going LFP might not be a bad idea, I would consider going for a larger battery, too, it doesn't cost all that much more if you're already going to build it yourself. wargames posted:are you using dc-dc to charge the start batteries? No, the plan would be to keep the lead-acid start battery and charge that with the alternator, then use a DC-DC charger to charge the LFP bank from that. My engine is original from when the boat was built in 1979 - it's the venerable Volvo Penta MD7A. It made a whopping 13.5 horsepower brand new, and while I recently replaced the alternator, the replacement is still only 45A nominal, and I'm like 95% sure even a 100Ah LFP bank could make that thing overheat in ten minutes flat if I just hooked it up (it doesn't help that engine compartment ventilation isn't exactly great on these old boats). I need some kind of current limiting for charging via the alternator and a DC-DC charger seems like a good way to do that. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 00:25
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MrYenko posted:Why not just clean it up and coat it? From the pictures it doesn’t look like there’s anything horribly wrong with it. if you flip it over its pretty bad scale. Wibla posted:800W of solar will probably not be enough, that's fair. At the same time you don't really have a lot of convenient places to put large 60/72-cell solar panels on a monohull, so you might have to resort to a separate boost MPPT charge controller. the two big 450w will be over the cockpit, and may have two small 250w as wings, and for that i could see a separate mppt because shading.
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Jun 13, 2021 00:30
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Unless that steering bump stop is for a tug boat out larger I would just bolt it back in place? What's it out of? Based on the bricks the the background, looks like something smaller than a panamax, but at least 40' If you want to DIY it you can just glass some plywood in place. That's what I have on my ~35'er. Even when scaling that thing is 100% stronger than what I have. Aluminum seems overkill Hadlock fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 09:15
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Hadlock posted:Unless that steering bump stop is for a tug boat out larger I would just bolt it back in place? slocum 43, and want it made it out of aluminium so it doesn't rust again.
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Jun 13, 2021 11:44
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What does it bolt to? What material, I mean. Aluminum still corrodes; It just does so in different, more exciting ways.
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Jun 13, 2021 11:57
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MrYenko posted:What does it bolt to? What material, I mean. bolted to fiberglass.
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Jun 13, 2021 12:07
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