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Commissar Canuck
Aug 5, 2008

They made fun of us! And it's Stanley Cup season!

I've never had great success with white primer out of an airbrush for whatever reason. But (somewhat related) using a white ink over a black or grey primed model as a zenithal highlight is buttery smooth. Inks like Daler-Rowney FW that you can get at Michael's, to be clear. No issues with white splotches after that

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Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Hello painting thread.

I painted some vampires:







This is first real foray into NMM. The order the minis are posted is the order I painted them in. I think i got little better with each one.

Also, I did some more Night Lords


DrDraxium
Dec 2, 2002




Plz state the nature of the medical emergency

Ohthehugemanatee posted:

I've had two airbrushes now and needle guards come off first thing every time. There's probably some wizard out there who can perfectly spray through them, but the second paint starts to build up inside you're done and so is whatever you're trying to spray.

And definitely get that Liquitex white ink. It should come duct-taped to every airbrush.

Whilst they seem extremely good at keeping the needle protected, like you said the tiniest bit of build up begets more buildup and then it's all over. Hopefully the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS in the post changes my tune on airbrushes. I've watched a ton of reviews and it seems to be universally loved and praised across the board.

I don't think the Neo was particularly bad to start off with, it just wasn't built to last. I also found out they aren't built in Japan like the rest of the series, hence the name Neo for Iwata. Taiwan doesn't have near the same level of QC as Japan, so it's unsurprising. Cheeky bit of marketing there.

Commissar Canuck posted:

I've never had great success with white primer out of an airbrush for whatever reason. But (somewhat related) using a white ink over a black or grey primed model as a zenithal highlight is buttery smooth. Inks like Daler-Rowney FW that you can get at Michael's, to be clear. No issues with white splotches after that

Yeah the more I read up, the more I hear that regardless of the airbrush quality, white primers just gunk poo poo up. Maybe pigment molecule size or some such thing. Goobertown Hobbies probably has a 14 minute video on it (bless him).

Hixson posted:

Hello painting thread.

I painted some vampires:


Beautiful work my friend. The exposed muscles on the heads are an amazing touch.

The pictures are nice and crisp too. Are they phone taken or a proper camera?

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
I picked up some Vallejo Air Metals they really are so much nicer than the model color metallics I had been using. Armored up my dudes after getting some magic/flame effects practice in.

Yvonmukluk
Oct 10, 2012

Everything is Sinister


As promised, quoting myself from the Oath thread:

Yvonmukluk posted:


I started with Army Painter Leather Brown a the undercoat, before basecoating the armour with Vallejo Game Color Hammered Copper, the various metallic details in Citadel Runelord Brass, and the red areas in Vallejo Game Color Terracotta Red, with the cloth/weapon grips in Citadel Corvus Black, and the parchment Rakarth Flesh. For shading I did Cryptek Armourshade on the metallic details, Agrax Earthshade on the red for the armour/shield and Reikland Fleshshade for the red leather trim. For the black areas I used Nuln Oil and I went over the parchment with Skeleton Horde.
Look on my works, ye mighty, and critique!

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Yvonmukluk posted:

As promised, quoting myself from the Oath thread:

Look on my works, ye mighty, and critique!

I would pick out some detail in a bright contrasting colour - the reds and browns are very similar, and it needs something to draw the eye. You could try add a little verdigris to the armour, which would also help it pop, but that might not be the effect you're looking for. Maybe pick out the eyes and the jewel/orb one the belt buckle in a glowy green?

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

DrDraxium posted:


Beautiful work my friend. The exposed muscles on the heads are an amazing touch.

The pictures are nice and crisp too. Are they phone taken or a proper camera?

Thanks! I use an old DSLR a on a tripod. Honestly phone cameras are so good now you could probably get better results with a newer iPhone

Hixson fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Jun 13, 2021

DrDraxium
Dec 2, 2002




Plz state the nature of the medical emergency

Hixson posted:

Thanks! I use an old DSLR a on a tripod. Honestly phone cameras are so good now you could probably get better results with a newer iPhone

I can never seem to get my focal length fixed even with manual settings. So there's always some part of the model that's out of focus. Using a Samsung Galaxy A71. I may just be overlooking something though.

blue collar orc
Feb 13, 2012

Hixson posted:

Hello painting thread.

I painted some vampires:







This is first real foray into NMM. The order the minis are posted is the order I painted them in. I think i got little better with each one.


Those are some beautiful blood suckers!

blue collar orc
Feb 13, 2012

Just stopping by to share some minies i've painted recently

A minotaur from https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-hulk-minotaur-hero-108795

A bar keeper from loot-studios.com

Two diregoyles from Cursed City. These were super quick and fun to paint!

Lasting Damage
Feb 26, 2006

Fallen Rib

Hixson posted:

Hello painting thread.

I painted some vampires:







This is first real foray into NMM. The order the minis are posted is the order I painted them in. I think i got little better with each one.

Also, I did some more Night Lords




The NMM turned out great. Fantastic work.

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



I’ve got an odd question, I’m looking to paint one of those McFarlane Toys “artist proof” Battle Sisters, but I’m not sure how to handle the articulation and accessories.
For the bolter and chainsword am I better off priming and painting them separately and then putting them in her hands afterward (which requires gently bending her fingers), or should I prime her with the weapons in hand?
Also how should I handle the articulation when it comes to priming her?

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
For articulated models, it's generally best to prime and paint individual pieces and then assemble afterwards unless you plan on fusing the joints into a single static pose. Depending on the company it can also be a good idea to shave down the joints to minimize rubbing and make room for the paint.

My experience is mostly with Gundams, so I'm afraid I can't offer anything more specific.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
I painted my Mcfarlane artist proof space marine.
They have a lot of mold lines, and they're difficult to remove, you'll need a sharp blade as they don't file or sand down.
I was able to remove the shoulder pads, head and backpack and painted all of those separately. I wasn't confident enough to remove the arms and legs.
I primed everything with Stynelrez black, and I made sure to flex the arms and legs a bit so I could get into the joints (but I still missed some spots).
Then I painted it just like a big mini, I used vehicle decals for his chapter shoulder emblem(it was still a little small), and stenciled on the arrow on this other shoulder.

chin up everything sucks
Jan 29, 2012

It might just be the camera picking out details invisible to the eye, but I can see brush strokes in the white/metal edging on the pauldrons. Everything else looks nice and smooth.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Finished up my ancient Black Dragon.





In my campaign setting, rather than being a separate species, Black Dragons are just male Green Dragons, so they're actually an extremely dark green. :pseudo:

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Had a bit of a painting break for a few weeks, built some models to add to the pile of shame. I decided to slightly reduce said pile by painting some dudes using almost entirely contrast paints because right now my wet palette is sitting dry in the dish rack and I couldnt be bothered putting it back together. So Lucas McCabe and his Wastrels for Malifaux (2e box, but I believe the models are unchanged in 3E). I think two evenings work if you dont include basing (cutting the flagstones out of plasticard, sanding the corners and arranging them on the bases took much much longer than I thought it would...)

Lucas McCabe, Relic Hunter


Lucas McCabe, Dismounted Hunter. (AKA the same dude, but if you kill his horse) I can tell you now that whip overhanging the base is a MASSIVE PAIN as every time you move anything near it it catches and knocks the figure over. Other figures, paintbrushes, sleeves, anything. Transporting it would be an adventure, and when it was on the table moving guys near him would be super annoying.


Luna, a Good Dog. I went for a lost desert city type vibe on the bases, and Luna is unearthing a skull from the sand, but you cant see it well from this angle.


Sidir Alchibal. My favourite of the set I think. This (aside from the metals) are where the "almost" in almost entirely contrast paints comes in; Apocathary White was fine for the shirts of the other figures, but really struggled on his robe, so I touched it up with some regular paint. Then tried some weathering powder on the bottom of it, which worked great on the robe, but less well on the bases (looked AMAZING when I applied it, but varnishing blew most of it off, or darkened it right down/turned it a bit sludgy. Will continue to experiment with it).


The Ruffians. I had to fight the impulse to just paint the one in the top hat as The Hitcher from The Mighty Boosh but the bright green skin would have looked out of place.


And the whole crew:


If I'm not going to be handling the figures much, reckon I'd be okay applying some more Secret Weapon branded pigment powder to the base over the varnish? I'm fairly happy with the figures but the bases dont look as dry and dusty as they did before I varnished.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Any tips / videos on more advance skin techniques? Usually I just do whatever skin tone, rakarth flesh shade, then dry brush the same skin tone on top. It looks fine. Recently, I tried doing a more technical layering/shading technique, and it looks like garbage, so I need a little more tutorial.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

I've been having some trouble with my wet palette lately. Seems that after a little while my paint just starts spreading across the wet palette. The longer I leave it, the more the paint just spreads across the parchment paper.

Anyone have any tips on how to avoid this or what's causing it?

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

AndyElusive posted:

I've been having some trouble with my wet palette lately. Seems that after a little while my paint just starts spreading across the wet palette. The longer I leave it, the more the paint just spreads across the parchment paper.

Anyone have any tips on how to avoid this or what's causing it?

it can depend on the materials, is that parchment from a wet palette you purchased or did you make your own?

when I made my own i had the best luck with a thin layer of wet paper towel between the sponge and paper

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

It's an Army Painter wet palette with the paper that comes with it.

It's never been a big issue until fairly recently. It also doesn't seem to be corrected by dabbing up any excess moisture on the paper with paper towel after I've put it on the sponge layer either. I'm sort of at a loss as to what to do.

sassassin
Apr 3, 2010

by Azathoth

AndyElusive posted:

It's an Army Painter wet palette with the paper that comes with it.

It's never been a big issue until fairly recently. It also doesn't seem to be corrected by dabbing up any excess moisture on the paper with paper towel after I've put it on the sponge layer either. I'm sort of at a loss as to what to do.

Buy a roll of generic kitchen greaseproof paper and just use that.

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
I finished another guy at my embarrassing glacial pace! Hopefully I'll get better and quicker at this so I can finish an army for once. I feel like I just managed to recreate Dark Angels as Death Guard, but I think it looks ok, especially if I can get the bright highlights looking right. I started playing with basing, because I'll have to do that eventually. I have no idea how to achieve that Nausicaa forest look I want so I just started playing with it. I tried the Greenstuff World Spider Serum, which worked out ok, but I'm wondering if it needs some kind of treatment or varnishing afterwards, because it's starting to blow off. Does anyone know if it takes color? I also had no idea what to do with the pitted blades so I gave up and just painted them a metallic. I just don't know how to highlight those lines and pits without them coming out looking terrible.

Anyway, here's some comparison shots between the new guys and the old guys, if anyone has any suggestions or ideas. I kinda worry that at table-viewing height it won't be a good scheme. Maybe it needs to be paired with a bright base?







Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 14, 2021

DrDraxium
Dec 2, 2002




Plz state the nature of the medical emergency
I actually like the deep green Death Guard take you've done. Gives it a real 80s cartoon toxic ooze vibe which works really well IMHO.

Sometimes - especially when it comes to army building - you just gotta bite the bullet and push through. You an "um" and "ah" and change direction a million times and it never feels like you're progressing.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Dr. Red Ranger posted:

I finished another guy at my embarrassing glacial pace! Hopefully I'll get better and quicker at this so I can finish an army for once. I feel like I just managed to recreate Dark Angels as Death Guard, but I think it looks ok, especially if I can get the bright highlights looking right. I started playing with basing, because I'll have to do that eventually. I have no idea how to achieve that Nausicaa forest look I want so I just started playing with it. I tried the Greenstuff World Spider Serum, which worked out ok, but I'm wondering if it needs some kind of treatment or varnishing afterwards, because it's starting to blow off. Does anyone know if it takes color? I also had no idea what to do with the pitted blades so I gave up and just painted them a metallic. I just don't know how to highlight those lines and pits without them coming out looking terrible.

Anyway, here's some comparison shots between the new guys and the old guys, if anyone has any suggestions or ideas. I kinda worry that at table-viewing height it won't be a good scheme. Maybe it needs to be paired with a bright base?


Quit doubting yourself and keep painting, you're doing fine.

Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost
So back in January, shortly after getting abruptly fired from a job and in the midst of wrestling with my state for unemployment benefits, I happened upon a stray cat in my neighborhood, who was probably sick or something, because he absolutely loving unleashed on my right arm and the wound got so infected so badly and so quickly that I ended up in the hospital. I spent a couple of months dropping poo poo continuously and I still can't type as fast or hold things very well with my right hand, as something healed out of place. it's been tremendously discouraging when it comes to the hobby, so I just kind of fell into a hole of easy entertainment for a while

after doing some spring cleaning this week I uncovered one of my secret santa gifts from the end of last year and something hit me as soon as i saw it: i needed to paint this stupid fuckin frog!!!!






first model in about six months! feels good to get something done.

Mirthless fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Jun 14, 2021

a7m2
Jul 9, 2012


Mirthless posted:

So back in January, shortly after getting abruptly fired from a job and in the midst of wrestling with my state for unemployment benefits, I happened upon a stray cat in my neighborhood, who was probably sick or something, because he absolutely loving unleashed on my right arm and the wound got so infected so badly and so quickly that I ended up in the hospital, and spent a couple of months dropping poo poo continuously. I still can't type as fast or hold things very well with my right hand, something healed out of place. it's been tremendously discouraging when it comes to the hobby, so I just kind of fell into a hole of easy entertainment for a while

after doing some spring cleaning this week I uncovered one of my secret santa gifts from the end of last year and something hit me as soon as i saw it: i needed to paint this stupid fuckin frog!!!!






first model in about six months! feels good to get something done.

drat that's rough but it looks like you didn't lose your painting skills because that frog is awesome!

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer

Toebone posted:

Any tips / videos on more advance skin techniques? Usually I just do whatever skin tone, rakarth flesh shade, then dry brush the same skin tone on top. It looks fine. Recently, I tried doing a more technical layering/shading technique, and it looks like garbage, so I need a little more tutorial.
Goonhammer has a good guide on it https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-human-skin/.
Scale75 has a mini guide on it as well, but it focuses on their own paints.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Mirthless posted:

So back in January, shortly after getting abruptly fired from a job and in the midst of wrestling with my state for unemployment benefits, I happened upon a stray cat in my neighborhood, who was probably sick or something, because he absolutely loving unleashed on my right arm and the wound got so infected so badly and so quickly that I ended up in the hospital. I spent a couple of months dropping poo poo continuously and I still can't type as fast or hold things very well with my right hand, as something healed out of place. it's been tremendously discouraging when it comes to the hobby, so I just kind of fell into a hole of easy entertainment for a while

after doing some spring cleaning this week I uncovered one of my secret santa gifts from the end of last year and something hit me as soon as i saw it: i needed to paint this stupid fuckin frog!!!!






first model in about six months! feels good to get something done.

All glory to the Hypnotoad frogtopus.

TotalHell
Feb 22, 2005

Roman Reigns fights CM Punk in fantasy warld. Lotsa violins, so littl kids cant red it.


Dr. Red Ranger posted:

I finished another guy at my embarrassing glacial pace! Hopefully I'll get better and quicker at this so I can finish an army for once. I feel like I just managed to recreate Dark Angels as Death Guard, but I think it looks ok, especially if I can get the bright highlights looking right. I started playing with basing, because I'll have to do that eventually. I have no idea how to achieve that Nausicaa forest look I want so I just started playing with it. I tried the Greenstuff World Spider Serum, which worked out ok, but I'm wondering if it needs some kind of treatment or varnishing afterwards, because it's starting to blow off. Does anyone know if it takes color? I also had no idea what to do with the pitted blades so I gave up and just painted them a metallic. I just don't know how to highlight those lines and pits without them coming out looking terrible.

Anyway, here's some comparison shots between the new guys and the old guys, if anyone has any suggestions or ideas. I kinda worry that at table-viewing height it won't be a good scheme. Maybe it needs to be paired with a bright base?









These dudes look rad as hell. Keep it up man! Hell, you could even do an army backstory that this is a wing (ha) of DA that got corrupted by Papa Nurgle and now fight for Chaos as Deathguard. Paint schemes can inform some pretty cool backstories that end up giving your army awesome flavor!

KingMob
Feb 12, 2004
Et In Arcadia Ego
Cross-posting rom the MCP thread:



PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009
Went ahead and bought some Wizkids Nolzurs minis to get back into painting. I went with 'rangers' figuring they could be bandits at some point in the future. I'm not super happy with my first attempt but it could have been worse. I think the armour on the one I chose to do first was actually more complicated than I was expecting.

Anyway, here they are:





One immediate issue is that there are some mold lines I didn't see before I started painting, with the big one being on the dude's head. I'll make sure to file those off next time.

Also, any tips people have for me starting out and especially for doing highlights? I found it really hard to get them right on the patchwork armour.

Ristolaz
Sep 29, 2005

By completely blowing off my BS you have passed the first trial
So I got the blood bowl set as a gift, and am now painting minis for the first time since I was a teenager.

I'm already punching and kicking myself for deciding to paint white cloth over black primer....but I just found out from the 40k thread that citadel layer paints are even less opaque than the base colours?? Am I making things double extra hard for myself by starting with a layer paint???

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Ristolaz posted:

So I got the blood bowl set as a gift, and am now painting minis for the first time since I was a teenager.

I'm already punching and kicking myself for deciding to paint white cloth over black primer....but I just found out from the 40k thread that citadel layer paints are even less opaque than the base colours?? Am I making things double extra hard for myself by starting with a layer paint???

You'll need to go some other paints over the black first.

My usual method for white over black is: black base > Administratum Grey > Ulthuan Grey (which is my white)

edit: I also recommend against 'pure' white paints. They're hell to use and can look chalky or unnatural since nothing in reality is pure white. My go-to paints are Ulthuan Grey if I want a cool white, or Pallid Wych Flesh if I want a warm white. Then you can still use pure white for highlights as well.

Scandalous
Jul 16, 2009
Work in progress for the first squad of guys I’ve painted in decades after the Aggressor I posted year last year. Or the year before. God time flies.



Started highlighting the Sergeant before nerves, backache and the third glass of wine conspired to insist i stop

5-Headed Snake God
Jun 12, 2008

Do you see how he's a cat?



Oh hey I have this guy too.



I like your color scheme, though. The hair in particular really stands out.

5-Headed Snake God fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jun 16, 2021

Ristolaz
Sep 29, 2005

By completely blowing off my BS you have passed the first trial

Floppychop posted:

You'll need to go some other paints over the black first.

My usual method for white over black is: black base > Administratum Grey > Ulthuan Grey (which is my white)

edit: I also recommend against 'pure' white paints. They're hell to use and can look chalky or unnatural since nothing in reality is pure white. My go-to paints are Ulthuan Grey if I want a cool white, or Pallid Wych Flesh if I want a warm white. Then you can still use pure white for highlights as well.

Thanks! Yeah, I'm using Ushabti Bone (old name?) as my white. Maybe a base of brown might work too? I'll have to see what I have, since I'm using a hodgepodge collection of paints that my friend graciously lent me.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


vallejo white grey, and instead of thinning it with water you thin it with white ink

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

jesus WEP posted:

vallejo white grey, and instead of thinning it with water you thin it with white ink

YES

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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



Bloodthirster proxy. I kinda started hating this model because it is way overloaded with detail and sucked balls to paint once the skin and metals were done. If the sculptor had just stopped when he thought he was halfway done it would have been better.

Still, came out alright.

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