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Deteriorata posted:The dashboard dimmer is a switch on the bottom of the dash, to the left and below the steering wheel. This is a video from 2017 so the logo on the button may have changed, but it's probably in the same general area: We found that switch but it doesn't appear to do anything but affect the top display area, not the actual buttons. Is there anything else that might work, or is that part broken somehow? Edit: the top display area doesn't actually dim, it seems to have a low/high setting. effika fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jun 14, 2021 |
# ? Jun 14, 2021 19:03 |
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# ? Jun 13, 2024 05:27 |
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Head Bee Guy posted:My friends father has dementia and no longer drives his ~2010 Ferrari California. What are some common problems that come with leaving one of those (or any car) in a garage for years without driving it? Depends on how long. Every fluid (including gas) will need to be drained and replaced as well as replacing drat near everything rubber from hoses to tires eventually. That's not the kind of car to play around with. It's going to be very expensive to get it back up and running if it's been sitting for a long time, but it will be way more expensive if it's not done right.
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# ? Jun 14, 2021 19:04 |
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Colostomy Bag posted:Guess GM didn't get the memo on left hand threaded bolts. Uhg yeah getting that drat belt around that pulley is the only thing between me and a working car but I'm hosed with that bolt not being fixed in place. Either I can try to thread-lock it, or maybe I can tie up some paracord string to a pipe in order to get enough leverage to move the pulley arm high enough? Edit: I remember an old trick around putting a bicycle tire into a laundry dryer to make it easier to get on a rim. Wonder if that would help any with a serpentine belt.
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# ? Jun 14, 2021 19:15 |
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Motronic posted:Depends on how long. Every fluid (including gas) will need to be drained and replaced as well as replacing drat near everything rubber from hoses to tires eventually. That's not the kind of car to play around with. It's going to be very expensive to get it back up and running if it's been sitting for a long time, but it will be way more expensive if it's not done right. What frequency should it be started and/or driven to prevent these issues? Im slowly but surely working my way into getting permission to drive it.
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# ? Jun 14, 2021 20:37 |
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Head Bee Guy posted:What frequency should it be started and/or driven to prevent these issues? On a vehicle that needs at minimum a couple grand of service per year there is no amount of starting it and running it that will prevent this. You need to drive it to the shop once a year minimum to be up to date on service. Many of these things are due based on time, not just mileage.
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# ? Jun 14, 2021 20:41 |
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I'm not sure about belts but oil should be changed at least once a year, possibly more often in a vehicle like that. I know some people drain the fluids out/remove the battery when they know a car is going to be stored for a while (like several years), maybe you could look into that if it fits your situation. Though I'm not sure how expensive it is to have it done professionally (and what exactly would have to be done to resurrect it later).
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# ? Jun 14, 2021 21:31 |
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Does your friend have no interest in driving it?
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# ? Jun 14, 2021 22:27 |
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Zero VGS posted:Uhg yeah getting that drat belt around that pulley is the only thing between me and a working car but I'm hosed with that bolt not being fixed in place. Either I can try to thread-lock it, or maybe I can tie up some paracord string to a pipe in order to get enough leverage to move the pulley arm high enough? At this point, thread locker will be your best bet.
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# ? Jun 14, 2021 23:29 |
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Head Bee Guy posted:What frequency should it be started and/or driven to prevent these issues? If it's on a battery tender, and provided it sees the inside of a shop every year at minimum, drive once every 6-8 weeks for 30+ minutes to get the engine oil hot and keep it there for a bit. Hit the rev limiter a couple of times once the engine oil gets hot; this can't be a 25mph trundle to the shops. If no battery tender then once every 3-4 weeks max and you'll want to drive it for a little longer
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 01:21 |
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:At this point, thread locker will be your best bet. I figured out a cheap solution... I looped a ratcheting tie-down strap around the whole arm behind the pulley, hooked it to the frame, then cranked that sucker up. Easily gave me hundreds of pounds of leverage to force the pulley all the way up. The only problem now is rear end in a top hat Saturn engineers made it so that the difference between a belt that is too short to get on the pulley, and so long it rubs against itself when bypassing the AC compressor, is literally 0.2 inches of belt length.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 01:58 |
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Zero VGS posted:The only problem now is rear end in a top hat Saturn engineers made it so that the difference between a belt that is too short to get on the pulley, and so long it rubs against itself when bypassing the AC compressor, is literally 0.2 inches of belt length. This makes me think you may have routed it wrong.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 02:01 |
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In theory, if I was driving from NY to Seattle in a rented cargo van in October, would there be any mountain passes I'd need to worry about? If I took Amtrak back, would there be any pretty snow worth seeing yet?
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 02:35 |
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Motronic posted:This makes me think you may have routed it wrong. There's no other way to route it really... it's just a super tight tolerance because I think the engineers neglected to allow for an AC compressor bypass just like they neglected to use a left hand thread on the pulley bolt like any sane person would have done. Here's a diagram of the system for the 2004 Vue, the top-middle pulley is the tensioner and the red line is where I rerouted the bottom of the belt to: This is what I wound up with, I can swipe a credit card between there if I push a little: The bottom of the belt is in fact going in a straight line so the other part is just glancing against it now, just enough to make my worry. If I could : a) actually find a belt that is 0.1 inches shorter and b) possess the superhuman strength to get it on the pulley then the pulley would be forced a little bit higher and I'd be free and clear. The alternator is the only thing at all that is being driven by the belt. Would it be possible to get some kind of elastic belt so that I could dodge the pulley as well? It doesn't seem like the alternator would ever have so much resistance that an elastic belt would struggle with it.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 02:52 |
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Oh, I didn't get that you were trying to route around the AC compressor. Yeah, that's not a thing that you're likely to be successful with. Just go get another clutch bearing/AC clutch and put it on your (I'm assuming dead) AC compressor. Unplug the electrical connector on the compressor and run a regular belt.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 03:03 |
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Can anyone recommend a YouTube channel which has a woman presenting cars? My daughter is getting into automobiles and asked if I knew of any, but I cant think of anything offhand.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 04:09 |
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Hot Dog Day #82 posted:Can anyone recommend a YouTube channel which has a woman presenting cars? My daughter is getting into automobiles and asked if I knew of any, but I can’t think of anything offhand. This doesn't exactly fit the brief, but I liked this video of this woman getting an old pickup back on the road. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEXt3xlRpLw Try posting in the YouTube thread too.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 04:17 |
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StormDrain posted:This doesn't exactly fit the brief, but I liked this video of this woman getting an old pickup back on the road. Oh, she's awesome. I watched that one and a few others on than channel.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 04:19 |
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Hot Dog Day #82 posted:Can anyone recommend a YouTube channel which has a woman presenting cars? My daughter is getting into automobiles and asked if I knew of any, but I cant think of anything offhand. This channel started a few months ago and has been pretty good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzB1Vc1h-Tc (Linking to the first video because I don't wanna figure out how to get the URL to the channel to stop getting parsed into a video tag.)
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 04:23 |
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StormDrain posted:Try posting in the YouTube thread too. That video looks fantastic; thanks so much! Also posting in the YouTube thread is a fantastic idea. Whoops!
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 04:24 |
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Zero VGS posted:There's no other way to route it really... it's just a super tight tolerance because I think the engineers neglected to allow for an AC compressor bypass just like they neglected to use a left hand thread on the pulley bolt like any sane person would have done. hate to say it dude but that belt is probably going to be rubbing on itself by the time it wears in. If not then, within a few thousand miles of stretching. You really need a shorter belt and/or to put a dummy compressor from the junkyard on it with nothing connected to it.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 04:25 |
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Hot Dog Day #82 posted:Can anyone recommend a YouTube channel which has a woman presenting cars? My daughter is getting into automobiles and asked if I knew of any, but I cant think of anything offhand. Not a channel, but KBB has this lady Lyn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVeaiecB0E8 Their main person is Micah Muzio who also does a great job, and has for years. He's a dude though.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 06:04 |
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Zero VGS posted:There's no other way to route it really... it's just a super tight tolerance because I think the engineers neglected to allow for an AC compressor bypass just like they neglected to use a left hand thread on the pulley bolt like any sane person would have done. Go back to the parts store you got the belt from, with the belt. Tell them you need a belt about 1/8 of an inch shorter (I say this because once the belt wears in, it'll get close to where it's at now), and see if they'll let you compare it to what they have in the back. They will likely have one for a different application that will work. If they ask why, tell them you're trying to bypass a seized AC compressor. Anyone that's worked there more than a few months should understand why you're trying to compare belts at that point. Width and # of ribs need to match. Or, if you can still turn the compressor pulley with the engine off (and it's not wobbling or grinding), just unplug the connector from the compressor and route it properly. Unfortunately the Vue was never sold without AC, and the Vue was also the only GM sold with the Honda 3.5 engine, so you can't really cross-reference anything else (the normal belt routing Honda uses is totally different and uses a much longer belt). You do have the 3.5, right? If you have the 4 cylinder, you can use a belt from a non-AC Cobalt, Ion, or 02+ Cavalier. If you have the 3.5, you also need to get on top of changing the timing belt ASAP (which TBH will be more than the car is worth, but if it's in good shape, it's worth doing - that engine will run forever). We have at least one person in here that works for a parts store, hopefully they see this and might be able to figure out a belt that will work. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Jun 15, 2021 |
# ? Jun 15, 2021 06:05 |
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In the old days one could get by with a pair of panty hose for a belt.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 12:39 |
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Okay, noticed some belt noise on the alternator and then noticed the long black coolant pipe above it is leaking in two places So I need to replace or bodge repair this pipe, which means taking it off Questions- How much coolant should I expect in the pipe? I was gonna cover the alternator in a towel or whatever and have a container handy to catch liquid but I kinda want to know what to expect first Can leaks on pipes like this be bodge-repaired with any efficiency?
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 13:17 |
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Colostomy Bag posted:In the old days one could get by with a pair of panty hose for a belt. Yeah but they'd look at you funny down at the VFW.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 13:17 |
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DesperateDan posted:Okay, noticed some belt noise on the alternator and then noticed the long black coolant pipe above it is leaking in two places Are you at the side of the road right now? You need to outright replace that hose. If you're stuck somewhere I guess you could just wrap it in whatever tape you might have and keep topping off coolant.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 13:35 |
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What is a good website to find leasing quotes on commercial pick up trucks and trailers for them in USA? Googlable ones want my info to call me back to give me a quote so
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 13:44 |
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VelociBacon posted:Are you at the side of the road right now? You need to outright replace that hose. If you're stuck somewhere I guess you could just wrap it in whatever tape you might have and keep topping off coolant. I'm at home and will be for a day or two, will order a replacement pipe So given the engine will be flat cold when I do the job, do you know if I can expect a pipe full of coolant or just some dribbles?
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 14:00 |
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DesperateDan posted:I'm at home and will be for a day or two, will order a replacement pipe I'd expect that top coolant hose to be about 1/4 full basically. Shouldn't be a huge issue but I don't know where the other end of it goes etc. Just in general top coolant hoses shouldn't be the kind of things that keep leaking after you take them out. Could always drain the radiator and refill it after if you have a container to drain into and a funnel for refilling.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 14:06 |
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Im having a hell of a time bleeding the brakes on my neighbors 03 Silverado 2500HD with hydro boost. Weve bled at least a gallon of brake fluid through it, replaced the master cylinder twice, and cycled the ABS countless times with a scan tool. Still, the pedal is disturbingly soft, and the brakes dont grab until the pedal is buried (at which point, they work fine). Hoses are not ballooning. All of the brake hardware is brand-new. I started a new thread in case it becomes even more of a journey. Maybe theres a sequence or method Im not aware of?
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 15:14 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Im having a hell of a time bleeding the brakes on my neighbors 03 Silverado 2500HD with hydro boost. Weve bled at least a gallon of brake fluid through it, replaced the master cylinder twice, and cycled the ABS countless times with a scan tool. Still, the pedal is disturbingly soft, and the brakes dont grab until the pedal is buried (at which point, they work fine). Hoses are not ballooning. All of the brake hardware is brand-new. I don't really know anything about automotive brake bleeding but from what you're describing I wonder if there could be an issue with the vacuum lines going to the brake booster, if applicable for that vehicle. Just because you've already replaced everything else. Sequencing wise, you're bleeding the farthest away caliper first etc? Like this sequence: I honestly can't remember offhand why it's important to bleed in this sequence other than when I had a right hand drive car with the brake master cylinder on the opposite side I had to bleed the rear LEFT wheel first etc because the distances had mirrored. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jun 15, 2021 |
# ? Jun 15, 2021 16:29 |
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it's hydroboost, so no vacuum lines going to the booster, just power steering lines. Really stupid question... are the calipers on the correct sides? If they are swapped left for right, they usually will be nearly full of air no matter how much you bleed them, since the bleed screw ends up at the bottom. Easy mistake to make if you haven't made it before. For a while in 2013 I had to remember to flip my passenger caliper upside down before bleeding it because it failed, I was broke, and the only spare I had was a driver side one.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 17:00 |
I don't know if there is a thread for this, but does anyone have any thoughts on aftermarket retrofitting keyless entry/ignition systems into an older vehicle, like an 04 Tacoma? Do they work well? Are there any brands to avoid?
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 18:56 |
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Keyless entry is generally fairly easy on anything with power locks, it's just a matter of powering the module and connecting it to the wires coming from one of the lock/unlock buttons. If you can install a car stereo without making a mess of it you shouldn't have trouble. How hard keyless ignition is comes down mostly to how hard it is to bypass the key code system that almost every car has these days. The electrical side isn't much harder than the lock/unlock wiring, but making the OEM anti-theft systems happy may be a challenge. Basically the easier the car would be to hotwire the easier it'd be to install a remote start.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 19:13 |
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Didn't people used to tape the top part of an OEM key to the steering column where the RFID reader is to make installing remote start easier? Obviously very insecure but that may be one thing to do.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 19:22 |
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Inner Light posted:Didn't people used to tape the top part of an OEM key to the steering column where the RFID reader is to make installing remote start easier? Obviously very insecure but that may be one thing to do. That was a thing, but there are also key boxes with an antenna so you can loop it around the ignition and put the box somewhere more sane. Preferably with a paired but uncut key in it.
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# ? Jun 15, 2021 19:24 |
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kastein posted:it's hydroboost, so no vacuum lines going to the booster, just power steering lines. It. Was. This. After posting the thread, I worked through a ton of GM sites about soft pedals. One guy on a GMC forum posted an identical sequence of events, and finally gave up & took it to a shop. They called within the hour with the news that he installed his calipers upside-down. I set the truck up this morning for yet another bleed (else it would be a day without sunshine), got under the right rear, and stared at the bleed nipple located at the bottom of the caliper. We all missed it. It never occurred to me that it could even be possible to install calipers upside-down. The design should not permit it, but here we are. An hour later, the calipers were swapped and everything is perfect. Six months. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Jun 16, 2021 |
# ? Jun 16, 2021 00:10 |
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gently caress it, we all gently caress up some times. I was trying to start a Honda pump one time. Just a little centrifugal pump attached to a one cylinder Honda motor., me and another guy at work that "know how to fix poo poo" were going at it for an hour. Finally I said gently caress it, and told the boss that I had to bring it to the local Lawn/Garden/small engine place. Tossed it in the back of a truck and noticed that the O-N-O-F-F switch was in the wrong position. Flipped the switch and that bitch started up first pull. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jun 16, 2021 |
# ? Jun 16, 2021 01:48 |
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so Im assuming its totally cool and normal that the info-tainment screen on my 2018 Nissan Rogue just told me that my new coworkers phone was no longer visible, despite said coworker having never once been in or near said 2018 Nissan Rogue that Im aware of?
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# ? Jun 16, 2021 04:12 |
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# ? Jun 13, 2024 05:27 |
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They may have connected while in the parking lot next to you. Either that or it's Nissan trying to help out your social life.
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# ? Jun 16, 2021 04:21 |