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BonoMan posted:Klein tools has a recall on one of their volt testers. Don't shock yo'self. hell rear end crap i have one of these and i literally used it yesterday. it worked, at least. quote:It has recently come to our attention that one of our products, the NCVT-1 NONCONTACT VOLTAGE TESTER, has a potential safety issue that Klein Tools would like to rectify. The on/off button of the NCVT-1 is intended to be pressed down and then released. If the button remains depressed during the power on or power off cycle, the tip of the tool remains illuminated in green, indicating the tool is "ready to detect voltage," when it is not. just confirmed, it doesn't beep if you hold the button. it does still seem to turn red on voltage though, but no sound plays. still, will exchange. actionjackson posted:Unfortunately I have no idea how to get the extractor tool out of the old drain in case I need it again! Application of concussive force. Deviant fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Jun 10, 2021 |
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Jun 10, 2021 21:45
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slave to my cravings posted:Good to know thanks. I got it from Costco so I have at least another 75 days or so to return it. Just don’t think I would be able to get a same fridge replacement from them at least because everything keeps going out of stock. I’ll wait a week to see what the options are. Why do all modern fridges suck rear end. I second the other poster who said return it. That unit is a lemon. Good luck though, fridges are a pain in the rear end (as is living without one)
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Jun 10, 2021 23:59
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Deviant posted:hell rear end crap i have one of these and i literally used it yesterday. it worked, at least. Huh, I have this model, and I just assumed it was a lovely flashlight feature.
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Jun 11, 2021 12:43
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Deviant posted:just confirmed, it doesn't beep if you hold the button. it does still seem to turn red on voltage though, but no sound plays. still, will exchange. This is why it's important to test it on a known hot circuit.
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Jun 11, 2021 13:53
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Oh, I did, and it worked for my use of it the other day to swap a fixture, but i'm still going to exchange it. Chapter 2 of this story was "oh, it's night time, let me go see if my new motion light actually w-AGGGH IM BLIND"
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Jun 11, 2021 15:51
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me when I turn on my new light fixture without a dimmer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXaw70X7wb4&t=12s
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Jun 11, 2021 17:20
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actionjackson posted:me when I turn on my new light fixture without a dimmer It was just like that. New question time! In my garage, above the water heater, i have two copper lines that terminate to nothing:  Following them through the attic, they go out to the side of the house and up into this box:  Inside it contains:  mmm, wall burrito. What the gently caress is this, why is it attached to my house, and is there any reason I shouldn't unbolt it and give the copper to the scrappers?
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Jun 11, 2021 22:00
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Looks like the remnants of a heat exchanger or heat pump system, in which case you're good to tear that poo poo out.
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Jun 11, 2021 22:06
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SpartanIvy posted:Looks like the remnants of a heat exchanger or heat pump system, in which case you're good to tear that poo poo out. That's what I thought too, but I thought I'd check. It's called a taco circulation pump, which only lends further credence to my theory that it's a Castlevania wall burrito. Edit: and uber eats just tried to shill me a chipotle coupon. go away, algorithm. Deviant fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jun 11, 2021 |
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Jun 11, 2021 22:08
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Deviant posted:hell rear end crap i have one of these and i literally used it yesterday. it worked, at least. I have this one too and have been using it with no issues (I always check it on a known hot circuit though). You can hold down the button to turn off the beep and it'll still detect, so I'm guessing the defect just keeps the light on but nothing else. Anybody notice how the consumer link on that website points to a form which specifically says it's not for consumers? I guess it's not important since I'm leaving the country in a week and a half, it's not like it'll get to me before I go.
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Jun 12, 2021 03:00
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Found out that my neighbor had clay pipes that collapsed a few years ago. On our disclosures, the seller listed that -something- was done with the drains In January (they were very stupid and vague on all the disclosures). Should I be worried? How the gently caress do I know if I have clay pipes or if they need to be rootered? Can I call the septic service that did -thing- and ask what exactly they had done?
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Jun 12, 2021 04:15
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Ball Tazeman posted:Found out that my neighbor had clay pipes that collapsed a few years ago. On our disclosures, the seller listed that -something- was done with the drains In January (they were very stupid and vague on all the disclosures). Should I be worried? How the gently caress do I know if I have clay pipes or if they need to be rootered? Can I call the septic service that did -thing- and ask what exactly they had done? Once under contract you scope the sewer. Otherwise after you own it you decide just how much you want to know and add sewer backup coverage to your homeowners insurance.
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Jun 12, 2021 04:48
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H110Hawk posted:Once under contract you scope the sewer. Otherwise after you own it you decide just how much you want to know and add sewer backup coverage to your homeowners insurance. We already own the house and have insurance. I’ll have to check if it includes sewer backup.
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Jun 12, 2021 04:55
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Ball Tazeman posted:We already own the house and have insurance. I’ll have to check if it includes sewer backup.  basically pay for a scope is how you find out exactly what's up. Do you have septic or city sewer? If it's septic did you get a septic inspection? If so I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you got nothing call either a septic company or a plumber to scope it out.
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Jun 12, 2021 05:36
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nvm: need to read more about drywall
biceps crimes fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 16:59
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Thanks to everyone who chimed in, it gave me the confidence and ammunition to prevail with these two. We'll grout it today or tomorrow with some stuff that matches the tile color fairly closely, and the silicone caulk is tinted the same color. I don't know how well it shows up but it's a matte tile, and all the cabinets are Ikea with white ringhult doors and cover panels, so I think the high gloss cabinets vs matte tile will be a nice contrast.  E: maybe someday I'll learn to take a picture that isn't hopelessly skewed. The tile with the 3 gang looks horrifically proud of the others but I promise it's an optical illusion from the mortar and the photo angle I goofed a little when framing the wall, so the portion that would form a right triangle at the top is not as plumb as I'd like, but the column to the right hides a lot of sins since it's only visible from that side. I should have the outlets, switches, and under cabinet lighting finished up in a couple days, we'll be able to put in the sink, and then it's just putting countertop and cover panels on the peninsula and installing drawers in everything. For the rest of the house I have to button up a few junction boxes, patch some drywall holes, and frame out and drywall three feet of wall I knocked down in the basement. Husband is finishing up the last couple hundred square feet of LVP and trim. We probably would have been done with this poo poo six months ago had my hip not blown up again and required another surgery, but with luck we'll have it finished before we leave the country in a week and a half. It's supposed to be a two-year PCS but he also got picked up for something else which may interfere, so I don't even know what country I'll be living in in the next 6 months. The house will be unoccupied for a couple months (at most, according to current plans). I figure we notify our homeowners insurance, make sure the sump pump is plugged in and working, and shut off the water to the water heater (it's nearing end of life and I don't trust it). Any advice besides having our neighbor pop in from time to time and make sure it's not floating away/on fire? E: vvv that's good to know, thanks. Fortunately USAA gives us a pretty good rate so even double won't hurt. BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jun 12, 2021 |
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Jun 12, 2021 20:05
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BonerGhost posted:The house will be unoccupied for a couple months (at most, according to current plans). I figure we notify our homeowners insurance Your homeowners is likely to send yo a 30 day termination notice about 10 seconds after you get off of that phone call with them. So before you even do this get quotes on vacant policies. They're likely to be double or more what you pay for homeowners.
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Jun 12, 2021 20:13
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BonerGhost posted:The house will be unoccupied for a couple months (at most, according to current plans). I figure we notify our homeowners insurance, make sure the sump pump is plugged in and working, and shut off the water to the water heater (it's nearing end of life and I don't trust it). Any advice besides having our neighbor pop in from time to time and make sure it's not floating away/on fire? Turn off the the water outside your house unless you have some specific need for water while you're gone.
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Jun 12, 2021 20:47
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God drat hell rear end, gently caress my lovely windows. Last fall, I bought a fancy Midea U inverter AC, ultra efficient, allows the window to still be opened if it's a cool day, etc... My electric company had good rebates, and since my CC rewards were based off the initial price, that 5% back plus the rebate brought a ~$400 unit down to less than $100. Since it was fall, I didn't install it then. We had a sudden heat wave bac in early/mid May and just plopped in my old window AC to get things tolerable, and this weekend decided to take it out and tackle installing the new one. It's not just a "slide in", it has a custom bracket you have to install first. But...I don't see how to get it to install on my poo poo windows. I don't have enough width/thickness to my sill. Or the part between the casing and the jam? Not sure what that part is called, but it's the amount it sticks out from the front sash, you know? On top of that, that little spot on my window is also angled, not flat:  Yeah...maybe I could try to fit a small piece of wood between them? But the bracket needs to be screwed into something solid, not sure I'd trust it just screwed into a piece of wood that itself is screwed into the window frame? And before you ask, YES, the bracket does go on the outside of the lip on the bottom of the sill: 
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Jun 12, 2021 21:14
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DrBouvenstein posted:God drat hell rear end, gently caress my lovely windows. I checked the install documents, it's a 1/2 inch long screw so it's not really to retain the unit, the screw is mostly to keep the bracket from being dislodged. So just sink it and call it good (maybe pick up a longer screw if you want to account for the length of the screw exposed). It's the pins in the bracket keeping it fully extended left and right that really provide fall protection. Like, this isn't an ideal solution, but modifying your trim is probably a step too far.
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Jun 12, 2021 23:15
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another cream ale recipe that comes up a lot is BierMuncher from homebrewtalk's Cream of Three Crops: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/cream-of-three-crops-cream-ale.66503/ I've never made it, but it looks like a solid recipe. Keep in mind that it's for a 10 gallon batch, so just cut everything in half for 5 gallons. He also calls for Minute Rice and I'm sure that works, but you can also use flaked rice.
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Jun 13, 2021 07:00
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more falafel please posted:another cream ale recipe that comes up a lot is BierMuncher from homebrewtalk's Cream of Three Crops: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/cream-of-three-crops-cream-ale.66503/ I've tried it, and I still find that an acrylic based caulk is the way to go.
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Jun 13, 2021 07:03
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I need to replace the floor and subfloor on a small landing area that my side door opens on to. I plan to install tile here when I redo my kitchen in ~1yr so I'm gonna just buy a little bit of sheet vinyl to slap down for now. I've never installed sheet vinyl, is this kind of vinyl tape going to be sufficient for a <10sqft area that is going to get a lot of traffic? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-Max-Grip-1-7-8-in-x-50-ft-Vinyl-Installation-Tape-Roll-50-540/100658261 Sirotan fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jun 14, 2021 |
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Jun 14, 2021 01:57
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I've got someone coming out in the near future to pour a concrete path in my yard. It's in sort of a U shape which will wrap around part of the yard where I'm pulling out the lawn and replacing it with garden—the bottom of the U will attach to an existing path. I currently have sprinklers in that part of the yard that I'll be removing since there will be no grass for them to water, but I am likely to replace them with a drip system some time in the not too distant future. Because the area in the center of the U will end up completely surrounded by concrete paths, I'd like to set things up so that I can get irrigation lines under the path without a massive ballache in the future (and replace them if they ever have issues, etc). I assume the easiest thing to do is just lay a length of reasonably wide PVC or something under the footing of the path before it's poured but I'm not sure if there's a standard solution. Anyone have any particular thoughts about the best way to do this?
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Jun 15, 2021 00:49
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Wallet posted:I've got someone coming out in the near future to pour a concrete path in my yard. It's in sort of a U shape which will wrap around part of the yard where I'm pulling out the lawn and replacing it with garden—the bottom of the U will attach to an existing path. Where is the water source/irrigation valve going to go? 1/2" or 3/4" irrigation/well line buried from source to destination is a good bet.
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Jun 15, 2021 01:11
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DrBouvenstein posted:God drat hell rear end, gently caress my lovely windows. I just installed one of these, they are amazing. There are also holes in the bottom of that bracket that will work just as well. You should be fine to use them to screw down into the sill instead of sideways into the jamb.
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Jun 15, 2021 01:22
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Is it midea u air conditioner time? Do what he said it's fine. The inside part of the bracket is more of a stabilizer
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Jun 15, 2021 01:37
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Motronic posted:Where is the water source/irrigation valve going to go? 1/2" or 3/4" irrigation/well line buried from source to destination is a good bet. The water source is already there where it attaches to my sprinkler controller but it will have to pass under the path. I shouldn't need more than 1/2 inch sprinkler tubing to feed the drip lines (it's not that larg e of an area and obviously it doesn't need a ton of flow). If I ever have to replace the line for any reason it will be a pain in the rear end, though, so I was thinking of putting in something like 1 1/2" pvc under the path before it's poured and feeding the irrigation line through it.
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Jun 15, 2021 02:30
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Wallet posted:The water source is already there where it attaches to my sprinkler controller but it will have to pass under the path. I shouldn't need more than 1/2 inch sprinkler tubing to feed the drip lines (it's not that larg e of an area and obviously it doesn't need a ton of flow). If I ever have to replace the line for any reason it will be a pain in the rear end, though, so I was thinking of putting in something like 1 1/2" pvc under the path before it's poured and feeding the irrigation line through it. Oh in that case sure....run some PVC conduit under there as a pass-through. If you want to get fancy/it works with the landscaping to hide them you can get get some "vaults" or "pull boxes" to put on either side of the conduit: https://www.platt.com/platt-electri...id=30&CatID=927
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Jun 15, 2021 02:35
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Motronic posted:Oh in that case sure....run some PVC conduit under there as a pass-through. If you want to get fancy/it works with the landscaping to hide them you can get get some "vaults" or "pull boxes" to put on either side of the conduit: https://www.platt.com/platt-electri...id=30&CatID=927 Thanks! Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious. I have a pull box where the sprinkler controller splits to the different zones already so I'll probably just run sprinkler tubing straight from there, through the conduit, and into the center and then I can couple that to whatever kind of drip line I end up putting in later.
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Jun 15, 2021 02:40
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We have a giant tree in our front yard that's currently about 12 feet from our aging asphalt driveway. We'd like to replace the asphalt driveway with concrete, and make it wider to boot. How close is it smart/wise/acceptable to pour concrete to a very mature tree? Obviously most sidewalks are near trees, but they also heave all the time.
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Jun 15, 2021 11:55
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mcgreenvegtables posted:I just installed one of these, they are amazing. There are also holes in the bottom of that bracket that will work just as well. You should be fine to use them to screw down into the sill instead of sideways into the jamb. Those wouldn't work either, same problem, not enough space:  It's an inch over the top of the sill. I guess if it's just to stabilize a long screw would work, just look uly. Moot point anyway, because my window doesn't open up far enough for it to fit! I measured, and it has enough space according to their specs, but they lied. I have a 13.75" gap, but it really needs a little over 14, at least it does on my window, maybe cause the bracket sits higher than expected so that adds like half an inch? gently caress my tiny windows.
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Jun 15, 2021 13:56
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NomNomNom posted:We have a giant tree in our front yard that's currently about 12 feet from our aging asphalt driveway. We'd like to replace the asphalt driveway with concrete, and make it wider to boot. How close is it smart/wise/acceptable to pour concrete to a very mature tree? Obviously most sidewalks are near trees, but they also heave all the time. What type of tree and how mature? Is the driveway exactly on plane with the tree or slightly above/below? You won't really know without carefully digging some dirt up to see how deep the roots are. Personally I wouldn't risk more concrete at the expense of a tree. Roots win every time.
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Jun 15, 2021 15:37
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NomNomNom posted:We have a giant tree in our front yard that's currently about 12 feet from our aging asphalt driveway. We'd like to replace the asphalt driveway with concrete, and make it wider to boot. How close is it smart/wise/acceptable to pour concrete to a very mature tree? Obviously most sidewalks are near trees, but they also heave all the time. From what I've learned it's pretty unique to the tree; some are more aggressive than others. We found it helpful to meet with an arborist here at our new place (actually 2). It was free, and they spent an hour walking us around and telling us everything about our trees and plants and what to do. Technically the visit was for a pruning quote but they were very enthusiastic about everything else. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 15, 2021 16:11
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I am in the early stages of refinishing a basement room that was originally "finished" in about 1972ish. Exterior walls are block and they installed furring strips and then put wood paneling on that. When they installed electrical outlets, instead of surface mounts or anything, they just used a hammer to smash out a hole in the block wall and recessed the box in that. See pic.  So, how would you guys recommend I fix the wall here? Keep in mind this is below grade so I cannot access the opposite side of the wall. I have 2 thoughts so far. First would be to use rigid foam board and cut a piece to fit, caulk it in and use minimal expanding foam to fill gaps. Second would be to glue/caulk/affix a metal mesh to the inside of hole and when that is firm, fill it with mortar or cement. So, any suggestions? Edit: there are going to be 5 of these to deal with. emocrat fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Jun 16, 2021 |
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Jun 16, 2021 13:55
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I don't have any suggestions, but that photo doesn't load for me.
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Jun 16, 2021 14:44
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Sorry about that. changed image host. should be good now.
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Jun 16, 2021 15:03
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Lol. So I ordered that UHaul "3 Bedroom House Box Pack" the other day. Lots of boxes, supplies etc. Our local UHaul places are shitholes so I wanted to order online for delivery instead of picking it up (and it was free shipping!) I expected it to be shipped as like... maybe one unit or several small ones? I just got the shipping email with ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY SIX different tracking numbers.
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Jun 16, 2021 18:22
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BonoMan posted:Lol. So I ordered that UHaul "3 Bedroom House Box Pack" the other day. Lots of boxes, supplies etc. Our local UHaul places are shitholes so I wanted to order online for delivery instead of picking it up (and it was free shipping!) That's hilarious. UPS driver is going to love you. FWIW, LowesDepot carries all those moving supplies at pretty close to those prices. Just in case you find yourself needed more of a certain kind of box.
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Jun 16, 2021 18:38
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BonoMan posted:Lol. So I ordered that UHaul "3 Bedroom House Box Pack" the other day. Lots of boxes, supplies etc. Our local UHaul places are shitholes so I wanted to order online for delivery instead of picking it up (and it was free shipping!)  Amazing.
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Jun 16, 2021 18:40
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