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Thanks, I'd be curious to know especially if you go more than 1 day driving it. So my heart sank as I saw a couple drips of pink unicorn blood on the garage floor yesterday. Right from the back of the engine where the hoses are that I've been working on (WP, thermostat, pipe, yadda). gently caress. Me. Back up on the quickjack. Look at all the hose connections, everything seems fine. The ends of the hoses themselves seem good and no evidence of weeping. I don't think it's a hose leak.. or at least on nothing I worked on. Ugh. I start looking around at areas I *didn't* touch, and closely examining what I can see on the water pump. Without removing parts airbox and belt, this is pretty tight are to get a good look at. See the highest vertical evidence of a drip. Right near a bolt about 1/2 up the water pump. Hmmm ... I Re&Re the waterpump last year and it was actually the genesis of this whole thing. Get my 10mm with 1/4" universal and barely manage to get it on the bolt. Finger tight. gently caress. You have got to be kidding me. I'm 99.9% positive I torqued it properly when Re&Re the pump, but either forgot or it worked loose. So I snugged it up, took it for a rip, seems OK. FINALLY, the coolant woes should be fixed. For now. Time for yearly oil change. I learned the very first time I change oil on it to not use my combo drain pain/container (it just can't swallow it fast enough), so I bought an open ~15-20q open pan for draining. Holy poo poo, the velocity that thing drains the 9L of oil is tremendous even more so that I remembered with it being warm. The impact splash of the still hot oil had splatter in about a 10' radius of the pan. Sigh. Good thing had cardboard all around. Go to pull the filter, it's being a bitch. Finally get it moving and THUNK whole thing falls in the drain pan (and corresponding belly-flop splash). WTF - it seemed waaay to heavy. Take a look at it - the LN Engineering Spin-on adapter came off with it.  Jesus christ. I was going to do the Subaru after this but I needed a break.
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Jun 14, 2021 14:37
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slidebite posted:Thanks, I'd be curious to know especially if you go more than 1 day driving it. drat that about sums up my experiences with wrenching and is why I mostly prefer to pay someone I trust to do the work for me. Speaking of oil changes, do these cars work well with the syphon type oil extractors? I have one that worked a treat on my Audis but only gets like half the oil out of my wife's old Saab 9-3. At least your filter wasn't heavy because it was filled with metal shavings!
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Jun 14, 2021 16:18
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quote != edit. whoopsie poopsie meant to edit that at least the filter wasn't heavy because it was filled with metal shavings!
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Jun 14, 2021 16:19
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I've never used one, but I've always been skeptical of how much residual oil at the very bottom of the sump is left. IMHO since you need to get under the car for the filter regardless, I'm not sure the benefit of using a vacuum system other than not as much of a chance for an Exxon Valdez accident in your garage? The initial rush of oil is impressive in these. That said, I leave the plug out for the better part of an hour and it's sill trickling out from all the galleries and nooks/crannies. It really is ~9L. Regular, simple things like oil changes really makes no sense to me to pay someone for unless you don't have the knowledge or confidence. The large amount of synthetic oil and filter at a shop would almost certainly be $125, maybe more. I also like taking the opportunity to poke around.
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Jun 14, 2021 17:01
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Having spent approximately a year feeling like a 911 is my ideal dream car, I’ve come to realize that a boxster seems like a reasonable first project car. If we say I’m at a level of “have changed the oil in a car once in high school, can reliably change flat tires and read instructions”, how plausible is it to buy a boxster and start working my way through the 101 Projects For Your Boxster book?
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Jun 15, 2021 03:23
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Coca Koala posted:If we say I’m at a level of “have changed the oil in a car once in high school, can reliably change flat tires and read instructions”, how plausible is it to buy a boxster and start working my way through the 101 Projects For Your Boxster book? You better buy one with a clean PPI because this isn't babbys first car to do anything beyond minor maintenance to without shop space and tools. The good news is that well maintained examples tend to not need a whole lot more than changing oil and youtube-learnable dealing with minor annoyances and convenience issues. To be fair, it's not much different than working on a similar age 911 in terms of difficulty. It's just got cheaper parts.
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Jun 15, 2021 03:33
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Most of the stuff you need to do is not different from another car apart from if you want to do anything with the engine due to where it is located. You have less access from above than a 911 since there is a folding roof mechanism is the way. Just don’t fall into the nothing is more expensive than a cheap Porsche trap. If you want to get into Porsche ownership then a 986 is probably the best starting point right now.
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Jun 15, 2021 03:47
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BigPaddy posted:You have less access from above than a 911 since there is a folding roof mechanism is the way. Not sure if you've not worked on a boxster but this is 100% wrong. Put it in service mode and you have a TON more access from above than the zero access from above you have on a 911. You can legit get at things you might need to access from there where on a 911 you'd be dropping the motor. E: it's not great, but it's something.... 
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Jun 15, 2021 03:53
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I have put it in service mode and had roof cover up and all that but I didn’t find it that helpful. Most of what I have done had been the oil, coils, plugs and things that tend to not need the service hatch.
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Jun 15, 2021 03:54
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BigPaddy posted:I have put it in service mode and had roof cover up and all that but I didn’t find it that helpful. Most of what I have done had been the oil, coils, plugs and things that tend to not need the service hatch. None of which are different than on a 911, yeah. But when you get into things like hoses, electrical, sensors, etc that's a world of extra access where on a 911 it's just "drop it". It's not great. But it's something. It's also nice to have just somewhere to look from above before you make that decision that the puddle your teutonic perfection is leaving on the floor in fact needs an engine drop.
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Jun 15, 2021 03:58
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It would have made the *world* of difference to have any topside and rear access when I did the AOS a couple years back. The first order of business to do that in the 911 (if you don't want to drop the motor) is to back off the 2 rear motor mounts and let the motor hang down a bit, because anything is better than nothing. Probably gave me 1.5" or so over the intake to the back left. And that's all you get. gently caress you if you have adult male hands. It was awful. I know those cars aren't made for owner servicing, but maintenance would have been sooooo much easier if they included some access to the back (front?) of the motor through a hidden panel or something behind the rear seat kind of like how some cars have access to the fuel pump under the carpet/sound deadening via the hatch/trunk.
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Jun 15, 2021 15:07
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Are the 911's (of any EFI generation I guess) at a point where they can have dry break quick disconnects added to all fluid lines and wiring bulkhead connectors added which would allow the engine subframe to drop easily and not screw up the alignment? Rear shock top hat bolts and subframe bolts and the whole assembly drops down?
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Jun 15, 2021 15:19
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I went and drove a 2002 Boxster (with only 24k miles) and the transmission felt very similar to the 2001 Boxster S, so that concern I had is not as big. They have all the maintenance receipts and also an extra set of wheels for it too. I am super tempted to just pull the trigger on it since they dropped the price another $1000 in email today for the 2001 S.
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Jun 16, 2021 18:21
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So my “xenons” appear to not have the electrical connector from the car that they should have. Not sure exactly what all is going on with them. They turn on and don’t throw codes in durametric but they are at least aimed way too low. Ah well, onto the polishing…
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Jun 17, 2021 17:03
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Can you post pics? I'm having trouble figuring out what might have been done to retrofit xenon's into it that would involve messing with the connector.
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Jun 17, 2021 17:09
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willroc7 posted:So my “xenons” appear to not have the electrical connector from the car that they should have. Not sure exactly what all is going on with them. They turn on and don’t throw codes in durametric but they are at least aimed way too low. Some people have installed the litronic headlights in non-litronic cars for appearance purposes only. From what I've gathered, actually properly retrofitting them with the aiming electronics is a lot harder, so most people don't do it. You can check the option codes on your car to see if it originally came with them.
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Jun 17, 2021 17:16
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Remember I mentioned that? The car does not have the Litronic option code (601?) or washers so your car was almost certainly retrofitted.... maybe questionably so. Does it even have an autoleveler? The lamp assembly is super easy to pull out, it's like a 2 minute job with the included tool in the tool kit. I'm not sure what's necessary to properly retrofit a halogen to litronic as it never really interested me. Here is what a proper Litronic system looks like. The red arrow is the autoleveler motor. e: #28 is the control unit for the levelers slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Jun 17, 2021 |
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Jun 17, 2021 17:30
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I do remember being warned. I have the headlights out to do the restoration kit you guys recommended. Here are a ton of pics since I don't really know what I'm looking for, but there is no self-leveling motor as far as I can tell. There is also no connector for the rearward connector, one that I saw hooked up in all the headlight removal videos for xenons. Maybe I'll try to trade them for some fried eggies. It would be nice if the tails matched the heads. https://imgur.com/a/OpFHGXJ
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Jun 17, 2021 18:07
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PPI tomorrow morning.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:19
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e: ^^ Good for you Willroc, I don't see any evidence of levelers at all. You might be able to trade for fried eggs, but that would be a stroke of luck, who knows. They cost big money. Even used ones go for quite a bit, as in many hundreds. Each. But maybe you'll get lucky.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:20
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kensei posted:PPI tomorrow morning. Best of luck! slidebite posted:e: ^^ Good for you Yeah, maybe I'll get lucky with a beat set and now I've got the cerakote technique down pat! lol Will these work passably without the self-levelers? I guess I'll see if I can get them aimed even halfway decent first...
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Jun 17, 2021 18:35
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Zero idea. Too low is better than high I guess, but you probably want to relegate to daytime driving and avoiding tunnels. You did a PPI on this right? I mean, I caught this and I'm an idiot. I would have hoped a PPI would have checked for proper headlight operation. No idea how aiming works on them or what's even manually adjustable. Just be careful, you don't want to be one of those assholes blinding everyone with xenons.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:43
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You should be able to adjust them. Seems like the same system they use on the 997/987 lights with some 5mm allen keys to adjust the aim.  Those yellow plastic circles will take an allen key and it's how you adjust aim. Should be blanks in the body work accessible from inside the frunk under the carpet lining that you can slide a long allen key into.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:47
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Yeah I'll give it a go with the screws. PPI was basically a check around underneath for leaks and a durametric scan. It was not that intensive so it did not cover the headlights, although we discussed them being non-original. He said the scan showed no problems with the lights and I left it at that. Hopefully I can just dial them up appropriately and go onto the next thing. ...which is the exhaust tips. They are currently too high and forward, sooting up the back and even damaging the paint. Is this easily adjustable? Should I consider some tips that are slightly longer?
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Jun 17, 2021 18:52
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Show a picture of the rear end. The tips typically drop as the motor mounts wear, but unusually high is not something I've heard of. A little discoloration is normal after 22 years.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:57
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I need to take one from farther away for the whole picture but here are the ones from when I bought the car. I guess I need to repaint that? lmao https://imgur.com/a/WfCVXRc
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Jun 17, 2021 19:06
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And I'm just noticing the inside of the passenger xenon is straight up broken.
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Jun 17, 2021 19:10
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willroc7 posted:I need to take one from farther away for the whole picture but here are the ones from when I bought the car. I guess I need to repaint that? lmao For comparison, here is a few photos I just took of mine for you a sec ago - I think it's normal (motor mounts are approx 2 years/2000km old).    willroc7 posted:And I'm just noticing the inside of the passenger xenon is straight up broken.  
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Jun 17, 2021 19:36
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Jun 17, 2021 19:57
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IIRC I think there might be a couple of setscrews on the chrome tip for a bit of adjustment, probably mostly back and forth, but I'm not sure if you'll have much for up/down. I'll take a better look at mine later on.
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Jun 17, 2021 19:58
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Those are the up/down and there are access holes in the trunk as described in the manual. I’ll give it a go later. Done with headlights for today. Who needs to drive at night anyway.
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Jun 17, 2021 20:34
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slidebite, talk to me about your bike, is that a zx14?
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Jun 17, 2021 20:36
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Close, its ST cousin the big Concours. I don't ride it as much as I used to since I got the 911... and the vertigo which slammed me earlier this year isn't helping either  Pretty much stock except the slip on, ECU flash and Corbin Smuggler to make it a solo since Mrs. Slidebite doesn't like to ride.
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Jun 17, 2021 21:01
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Looks comfy as all hell, have you done much touring on it? Seems like it would be awesome to take the length of the west coast or go across west-east. I imagine there have to be some great cross canada highways with all that nature between population centers?
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Jun 17, 2021 21:28
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 See you next week bae.  That's a BMW I4 in front of it.
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Jun 17, 2021 21:39
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TheBacon posted:Looks comfy as all hell, have you done much touring on it? Seems like it would be awesome to take the length of the west coast or go across west-east. I imagine there have to be some great cross canada highways with all that nature between population centers? Generally like down to Kalispell, Glacier, Waterton park and areas in between. Canada is pretty god drat boring east/west once you get out of Western Alberta until you get pretty far east. I bought it from a guy in Fort McMurray years back and the ride home was ironically the longest single ride I've done. It is a bit of a missile. If you overly twist the wrist it will happily begin to lift the front end until the traction control promptly senses a difference in wheel speed and cuts power. But, I guess that's not really a Porsche thread discussion and of limited interest here 
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Jun 17, 2021 21:47
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slidebite posted:Just the odd day trip really and maybe up north to visit the folks in the summer instead of driving the truck or family car. Heh, I definitely am familiar with the whoopsie wheelie I think it owns, so thanks for indulging me
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Jun 17, 2021 22:01
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Haha whoopsie wheelie No problem boss. I'd talk bikes all day long otherwise.
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Jun 17, 2021 22:07
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 Anyone know what/how/differences with PTV? When I was leaving the beach I turned off PSC and left two perfectly straight and even trails behind me in the sand when I goosed it. As far as I know it's not entirely a limited slip but maybe an electronic LSD that it unlocks to brake the inside wheel? It's just hard to get around all the marketing wank to find out how it actually works. All I know is this car just corners even harder when you add throttle mid corner.
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Jun 17, 2021 22:33
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Residency Evil posted:
Have you done ppf on the front? The rocks and sand on the roads out here are no joke. Don’t be too far from home in it after like noon when it’s warm either because it can basically hail unexpectedly at any time.
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Jun 17, 2021 23:11
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