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punishedkissinger posted:What colors do people use for basecoat of caucasian flesh generally? i think i'm starting too light. Citadel Bugman's Glow
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Jun 17, 2021 17:59
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No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:That looks awesome! I have the following printed out that I still need to paint: Horus, Leman Russ, Ferrus Manus, Vulkan, Perturabo, Sanguinius, Lion El'jonson, Magnus, Guilliman, Rogal Dorn, Mortarion, Lorgar Thanks! It's the only one I have painted, the rest are printed staring at me from the shelf. I can't wait to see how he does Jaghatai Khan, which should be the next one as he's going by the order they were found.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:16
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I use an extremely light pink (P3 carnal pink) and wash down with GW's Reikland Flesh Wash.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:16
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punishedkissinger posted:What colors do people use for basecoat of caucasian flesh generally? i think i'm starting too light. I use a black/red so I don't have to use reikland fleshade later.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:21
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punishedkissinger posted:What colors do people use for basecoat of caucasian flesh generally? i think i'm starting too light. Vallejo Beige Red.
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Jun 17, 2021 18:29
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thanks! I also just realized I'm doing my eyes out of order. they should probably be the first thing i do after priming. gah. right now my eye strategy (done entirely with a 000 brush) is just just glop some white onto the eye, dry a line in black directly down from the brow to the cheek across the eye (hopefully centeredish), then cut back in with flesh to give it the proper shape. is there a better way to do this?
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Jun 17, 2021 20:57
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punishedkissinger posted:thanks! I also just realized I'm doing my eyes out of order. they should probably be the first thing i do after priming. gah.
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Jun 17, 2021 21:11
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I'm open to that. is there a particular size you would recommend? is there a white version i could use too?
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Jun 17, 2021 21:23
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Hey, still kinda new to this and got careless with some of my brushes which got all clotted with paint. I tested out nail polish remover on a spare and it seemed to work fine, is that an acceptable cleaner?
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Jun 17, 2021 21:25
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punishedkissinger posted:I'm open to that. is there a particular size you would recommend? is there a white version i could use too? They do make colored ones, but they're thicker. That might not be a problem for filling in eyes though. I just paint the white in with some thick paint, so it doesn't run.
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Jun 17, 2021 21:47
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What are the most important washes to have for minis in general? I have Nuln Oil which is what I've basically been using for everything, but I am going to pick up a couple more to round out my options. Is some kind of flesh toned wash good to have? Maybe a brown wash of some type? Would love some thoughts on the 2-3 washes that would be most useful in addition to Nuln Oil (There's a local Warhammer store, so I'll be buying their stuff to narrow down brands)?
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Jun 18, 2021 00:04
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Black, brown, sepia. For Citadel that means Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, and Seraphim Sepia. When people use a wash, it is almost always one of those three. Others have their use but are situationally and rarely used.
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Jun 18, 2021 00:09
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PotatoManJack posted:What are the most important washes to have for minis in general? I have Nuln Oil which is what I've basically been using for everything, but I am going to pick up a couple more to round out my options. Is some kind of flesh toned wash good to have? Maybe a brown wash of some type? Yeah, a brown wash is useful as hell. Agrax Earthshade from GW is a nice versatile dark brown wash (I'd say brown-black). Dead useful for making things look naturally dirty and used, use to bring out woodgrain, and (as the name suggests) on ground cover. Seraphim Sepia is a much more niche wash, its a sepia wash, so sort of soft brown, much lighter than agrax. Useful for bone, parchment, sand and anything you think the agrax is too dark for. And a flesh wash is a good idea, yes. Reikland Fleshshade is the one I have. If you have Nuln Oil, I'd say your priority list would run; Agrax Earthshade - Reikland Fleshshade - Anything else you like the sound of. As i say, I like their Sepia for a few things, but its a bit more niche use, but for my money still more versatile than say Drachenhof Nightshade or whatever.
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Jun 18, 2021 00:14
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Can anyone give me the rundown on retarders?
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Jun 18, 2021 00:29
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First mini that I did more than basecoat on and that I didn’t immediately hate / strip and liked: What exactly is the proper steps when you add a drybrush into the mix? I like the effect that the russ grey gave to the macragge blue and want to continue that going forward. So far my steps are: Basecoat Macragge, Drybrush Russ, Other Basecoats (black, silver, red, gold, etc), fixing any runovers, shading between armor plates. One of the problems I ran into was when I fixed a runover with Macragge blue (such as red or shading) there was an obvious darker blue poking through. Do I just lightly drybrush the area again? Thanks Edit: holy cow .15mm micron pens are the answer to my shading woes???? Double edit: wait I’ll follow this guy but replace the gold with red. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmUz4WmwaGc Tenchrono fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jun 18, 2021 |
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Jun 18, 2021 00:54
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punishedkissinger posted:Can anyone give me the rundown on retarders? Liquitex Slow-Dri at your local hobby store. dilute it with water at the ratio printed on the bottle, keep it in a squeeze bottle, and add a little bit to your paint when you need it to dry more slowly. Retarders are great for wet blending, avoiding tip dry in your airbrush, or in general having more of a grace period to fix mistakes with paints or washes.
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Jun 18, 2021 01:57
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Geisladisk posted:Black, brown, sepia. For Citadel that means Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, and Seraphim Sepia. Entirely this. Those three color filters go for almost anything.
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Jun 18, 2021 02:17
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I'd go with reikland fleshshade over the sepia if you plan on painting anything fleshy, but nuln oil and agrax are by far my most used as well.
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Jun 18, 2021 02:23
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   finished a 10mm watchtower
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Jun 18, 2021 02:41
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Seraphim Sepia is also gorgeous over golds and brasses in addition to all the other great things it does.
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Jun 18, 2021 02:58
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StashAugustine posted:Hey, still kinda new to this and got careless with some of my brushes which got all clotted with paint. I tested out nail polish remover on a spare and it seemed to work fine, is that an acceptable cleaner? If they're synthetic it's probably ok just don't get acetone on your minis. If they're natural brushes I probably wouldn't dunk them in nail polish remover.
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Jun 18, 2021 03:41
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Nebalebadingdong posted:
I love this. It probably makes a lot of sense to go extra bright for 10mm like you are. StashAugustine posted:Hey, still kinda new to this and got careless with some of my brushes which got all clotted with paint. I tested out nail polish remover on a spare and it seemed to work fine, is that an acceptable cleaner? probably ok for synthetic, but it will probably not be nice to natural ones. I don't think acetone is good for hair.
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Jun 18, 2021 03:43
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I like the saturday morning cartoon look so much more than the grimdark blanchitsu look.
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Jun 18, 2021 03:44
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i just think it's nice to accept that they are toys and not super serious bad dudes
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Jun 18, 2021 03:50
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Toebone posted:I'd go with reikland fleshshade over the sepia if you plan on painting anything fleshy, but nuln oil and agrax are by far my most used as well. Yeah, I use brown, black and fleshshade mostly when I do my tabletop quality paint jobs. I think browns or blacks don't work that well for flesh colours, as you want that extra red tint that fleshshade has. There's a risk that all colours just blend into each other if you go with just browns and black washes. I've used both army painter washes and GW washes and haven't noticed a huge difference.
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Jun 18, 2021 09:04
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Finished painting my first model ever. First model I've built in 15 years. I got a bit sloppy in some places but overall I'm fairly happy with this. Need to touch up a few places still.   
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Jun 18, 2021 10:43
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As far as I know, nobody actually makes it so you have to roll your own but Payne’s Grey wash is magic. It’s a very dark cool blue grey and it shades nearly everything wonderfully.
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Jun 18, 2021 14:29
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Is there a Goon mini-painting discord server? Or maybe a Goonhammer one? Also, how far into a model (such as the heavier, metal infinity models) do I need to drill a hole to pin them, does the hole need to be exactly the same size as my pin, and will bits of paperclip work?
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Jun 18, 2021 15:07
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even if you have no other interest in using inks or airbrushing or anything, a bottle of payne’s grey ink is absurdly useful. i never bother to find different colours for shadow/midtone/highlight any more. I just find a nice midtone I like, then mix in payne’s grey to create a shadow, and vmc light flesh to create a highlight. creates a nice uniform effect of cool shadows and warm highlights when you use it for every colour on your mini.
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Jun 18, 2021 15:08
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Wrr posted:Is there a Goon mini-painting discord server? Or maybe a Goonhammer one? a 1mm drill bit is a perfect size to go with the standard cheap paper clips at any office store, and those paper clips work perfectly for pinning models in my experience
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Jun 18, 2021 15:09
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Eej posted:If they're synthetic it's probably ok just don't get acetone on your minis. If they're natural brushes I probably wouldn't dunk them in nail polish remover. I'm using Army Painter brushes which I think are synthetic? The one I cleaned dried really stiff, so I'm thinking I should stop being lazy and just get some real paint soap (any recommendations?)
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Jun 18, 2021 15:51
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Master’s brush soap is fantastic and a bar will last forever
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Jun 18, 2021 15:52
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My jar of The Masters is actually about to run out. After what is probably a decade and halfs usage by this point. 
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Jun 18, 2021 15:59
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jesus WEP posted:a 1mm drill bit is a perfect size to go with the standard cheap paper clips at any office store, and those paper clips work perfectly for pinning models in my experience Yeah, don't buy brass rods or pinning kits, just get a box of assorted size paper clips, they're easier to work with and they have a ton of uses beyond pinning (and holding paper together).
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Jun 18, 2021 16:40
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I've got a ton of paperclips already, so no problem there, but how deep into the model do I need to go? My instinct is... pretty deep.
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Jun 18, 2021 16:52
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Deeper is better but even a little depth adds surface area to the glue bond. It's ultimately going to depend on a lot of factors: how heavy the attached piece is, how much play it'll see, the materials involved, etc. If it holds after you pin it and paint it, it'll probably hold while you play.
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Jun 18, 2021 17:02
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Pinning does two things. One being more surface area for glue to adhere to, the other is eliminating lateral stress on the glue bond. Ideally you'd want to go as deep as possible, but a fair amount of time I'm only able to get 3-4mm and it's been enough.
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Jun 18, 2021 17:06
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“as deep as you can without risk of distorting the model” is generally good advice, there’s not really any reason not to other than  (which tbf is always a consideration)
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Jun 18, 2021 17:11
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jesus WEP posted:even if you have no other interest in using inks or airbrushing or anything, a bottle of payne’s grey ink is absurdly useful. This is what I do and it works really well. And if you don't like light flesh, sunny skin tone for a more orangey highlight works really well. Basically any bright skin tone works well. AK Luminous Flesh is also another good one. When I'm doing contrasts I just use payne's grey ink and contrast medium to lay down heavier shadows. The only problem I've run into is figuring out how to get better highlights with some of the more saturated contrasts. Thinning them and applying as glazes over a prepared undershading works alright, but it still doesn't look amazing. Really I just need to figure out how to highlight Flesh Tearer's Red.
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Jun 18, 2021 19:36
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For the first time in 30 years, I have Space Marined. He serves both a test of the color scheme for my epic scale marines, and an entry into my FLGS' paint-a-marine-in-a-non-standard-scheme contest.
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Jun 18, 2021 21:03
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