|
biracial bear for uncut posted:There is a reason Formlabs printers are so good, and it's because they use loving lasers instead of stupid LCD screens. I pre-ordered one of those Phrozen Mega 8k things and conversations like this make me nervous about if that was a mistake. 
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2021 15:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 05:39 |
|
|
Harvey Baldman posted:I pre-ordered one of those Phrozen Mega 8k things and conversations like this make me nervous about if that was a mistake. If it makes you feel any better, the 8k is still half the price of a Formlabs printer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2021 15:30
|
|
|
Also Formlabs resin costs $150 per liter and their tanks cost $100. You cannot use any other brand of resin lest you void your warranty (which is like 95% the reason to own a Formlabs printer in the first place). I have never had a print failure on my Form 2, but the thing is just really expensive to run. For what it's worth, I was looking at switching to that 8k once the early adopter bugs get ironed out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2021 16:29
|
|
|
I'm just grumpy about my one foray into LED/LCD printers with one of the cheap machines available in 2019 being failure after failure because I didn't have the time to approach it properly and nothing would stick to the build plate. The thing came with the usual sample print files and it didn't matter how much I re-levelled the build plate everything would just stick to the FEP and it'd be a nugget of cured resin in the rough shape of the sample print in the vat and jack poo poo on the build plate (so I just initiated a return/refund before that time period ran out and I was stuck with the machine). Also, regarding the Form2, you do realize you can enable Open Mode, right? https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Open-Mode?language=en_US EDIT 2: Also, some resin manufacturers will have guides posted on how to use their resins with the Form2 system. https://www.liqcreate.com/supportarticles/how-to-work-with-liqcreate-resins-on-the-formlabs-form-2-resin-3d-printer/ Also, there's this option: https://www.protoart.net/cartridge Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jun 18, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2021 16:36
|
|
|
It took me like 8 hours, but I’ve finally recalibrated our dual nozzle printer at work. No more rubbing of the prints from uneven nozzles. Prints are perfectly aligned. We’re getting better prints than we got from factory settings. I’m so happy. I’ve been fighting with this thing on and off for like a year.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2021 16:41
|
|
|
Yeah for example applylabwork has at least one resin that is a drop-in replacement for formlabs. It works okay, but performance clearly isn't as good and it's one of those super stinky acrylates, but at least it's cheaper (it wasn't worth being cheaper imo)
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2021 16:48
|
|
|
Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:It took me like 8 hours, but I’ve finally recalibrated our dual nozzle printer at work. No more rubbing of the prints from uneven nozzles. Prints are perfectly aligned. We’re getting better prints than we got from factory settings. Cue a massive nozzle clog that necessitates a replacement nozzle. Have fun doing it all again!
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2021 20:59
|
|
|
Just grabbed eternal starlight on quest with some credit and it's the perfect game for VR. Hand controls seem to be their big focus which I didnt like the realiability of vs just using controllers, but what's left is still fantastic. Basically what you've got is a roguelike ship fleet game where you equip weapons/tech to your ships like FTL, then you wander around making alliances and controlling them in full vr You can zoom in/out on the fly with controllers and give flight paths to your ships in 3 dimensions which is something that would suck poo poo if just done with a mouse and keyboard. My only complaint is that targetting specific weapon systems etc is kinda janky. Whatever the 2nd refinement of this is will be fuckin insane. Just something akin to eve online would be nuts
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2021 06:02
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Just grabbed eternal starlight on quest with some credit and it's the perfect game for VR. Hand controls seem to be their big focus which I didnt like the realiability of vs just using controllers, but what's left is still fantastic. But do your ships have 3d printers on them?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2021 06:47
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:But do your ships have 3d printers on them? If they were playing Subnautica, then the answer would be "yes" 
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2021 14:39
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:But do your ships have 3d printers on them? No, the VR rig is a transparent helmet and you 3d print the ships and fly them around make spaceship noises.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2021 15:00
|
|
|
gently caress, no more posting after a couple beers for me. Side note, this is something like the 4th time I've been building the voron and realized I forgot to order a length of screw it something
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2021 17:36
|
|
|
awwww yeah, not bad for a first pour
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 00:23
|
|
|
That looks pretty good! Did you have any vents or are those outside ones just stubborn? E: what's your method for melting the roto metal? I've got a Hot Pot 2 that I use for pewter, not sure if that gets too hot.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 00:33
|
|
|
why the hell is prusaslicer making this model solid?  quit adding poo poo to my model, prusaslicer. do as you're told. edit: superslicer does it too. :/ Edit Edit: Bad model. repaired via netfabb and it works fine now. Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Jun 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 15:58
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:That looks pretty good! Did you have any vents or are those outside ones just stubborn? i included vents but they all closed up during printing; the part on the right just froze at the narrowest point in the runner, which makes sense because i made em much smaller than you’re supposed to. the left one’s unsecured core came loose and blocked that runner. the center two are basically perfect castings, venting and a less narrow runner would fix things shame that the thread forms are way too rounded off to have much hope of thread cutting, alas. at a bigger scale i could get much crisper geometry. still worth the exercise, didn’t super expect to get perfect hardware from this.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 18:59
|
|
|
This is probably a long shot, but maybe one of you guys knows more about this than me or knows of some good ressources. I have a window AC unit that is a total lifesaver during summer. Last year I got a complaint about the water dripping down. I tried following up, but never found out what exactly was the problem. It might be a resolved situation. Regardless, I figured I'll design a solution just in case. I created an insert that exactly fits the drain hole just like the hose attachment did. I integrated a bell siphon (I think), so the water gets dumped all at once when the level rises above 1cm. I just tested it by dumping some water in through the grates, and it seems to work perfectly for the most part. I have two things I would like to improve: 1) The stream ends up pretty drippy, is there some way to make it more 'uniform' or maybe just dump it out faster (I don't actually know how to optimize for this) 2) Right now the water is a bit close to the wall, I figure some sort of spout to 'shoot' it out further would be nice. I don't know that much about fluid dynamics, so any help would be appreciated. I have a fair bit of tolerance left on surface areas, so I figure there's a lot of potential for improved flow there, I did no calculating there and probably have chokepoints. My only limiting factor is the outer diameter.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 19:06
|
|
|
what's the best way to clean all the resin bits and liquid crap out of my iso alcohol wash bucket? strainer and a second bucket?
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 23:32
|
|
|
Deviant posted:what's the best way to clean all the resin bits and liquid crap out of my iso alcohol wash bucket? I'm no resin expert but some folks were blasting it with UV to cure loose resin and straining the results IIRC. I'd imagine a big funnel with a paper filter would be ideal.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 23:58
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:I'm no resin expert but some folks were blasting it with UV to cure loose resin and straining the results IIRC. I'd imagine a big funnel with a paper filter would be ideal. i guess i could just blast it on the wash and cure station and filter that
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 00:29
|
|
|
If it's sunny where you are, just set the sealed container out in the sunlight for a while, and pour it through a big paint filter to clean out the cured bits. Any strong UV and a clear container should work if you don't wanna go the "bucket heavy, gently caress lifting this" route. Or, get.one of those UV spots and blast the gently caress out of it for a few mins and filter. You got options.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 00:48
|
|
|
Is the lasers thread dead, or am I looking in the wrong places? I'm eyeing down that Ortur Laser Master 2 and want to see if there's anyone with experience.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 01:43
|
|
|
Deviant posted:i guess i could just blast it on the wash and cure station and filter that Just don't do that in the cleaning bucket with the little wheel at the bottom. That's a setup for a bad afternoon. I left my IPA outside in a clear container for about a week, despite it being sunny and hot it didn't do anything for several days then suddenly yesterday there was a thick film of white goo around the sides of the container and all the IPA in the middle was clear again. I strained it twice and put it back into an empty bottle, I dumped all the goo onto a paper plate and left it in the sun for the afternoon to dry out and then threw what was left in the trash. Cleaning the container afterwards was a pain, since I can't just run it under the tap, more IPA and a lot of paper towels and it's ready for the next batch.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 01:45
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:Is the lasers thread dead, or am I looking in the wrong places? Yeah it's gone to archives, the CNC thread might be appropriate but you could always make a new lasers thread. Old one was here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3739294
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 02:10
|
|
|
Any laser system that doesn't have the actual laser work area enclosed to prevent blinding anybody in the room is a no-go from a basic safety standpoint.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 02:23
|
|
|
Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:If it's sunny where you are, just set the sealed container out in the sunlight for a while, and pour it through a big paint filter to clean out the cured bits. Always pour it into something else first unless you hate your cleaning container. You can wipe the empty container out with paper/shop towels and then cure those.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 02:43
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:Yeah it's gone to archives, the CNC thread might be appropriate but you could always make a new lasers thread. Old one was here: Thanks! I'll think about putting it together despite not really knowing lasers that well. biracial bear for uncut posted:Any laser system that doesn't have the actual laser work area enclosed to prevent blinding anybody in the room is a no-go from a basic safety standpoint. Yeah, I'm not buying this without building an enclosure and ventilation. I'm trying to figure out what material I need for the enclosure.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 02:45
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:Thanks! I'll think about putting it together despite not really knowing lasers that well. Under typical use something as simple as a cardboard box would work for the incidental reflected light. It would only be a short delaying action if the laser breaks off and dangles around, or other situations where the beam could make direct contact with the enclosure. To be honest, if you expect your laser to make contact with the enclosure you're already doing something wrong. Direct contact with a 15w diode laser basically can't cut though even modestly thin plywood, (say 5mm), and would be my first recommendation for a reasonably easy and sturdy enough enclosure. But it can still char it, and thus plausably produce a fire. You're not really going to avoid the possibility of fire unless you go with metal. This is all kind of straightforward. More likely, you're asking about a window. Unlike CO2 systems, diode laser systems like that are firmly in the visible range. Basically, if you can see though it, be exceptionally wary. Looking it up, I've found that the ortur is a 445nm, 15W. So firmly a class 4 (there was never a possibility it wasn't, given it's a laser intended for cutting) So, that's really what you need to look for, a class 4 viewing widow rated to block 445. An an example without endorement. In contrast, here's something with basically the same example image, but with the explicit warning not to use it on a class 4 system. And here's a class 4 window, but not rated for 445, and would effectively be worthless on such a system. There's also measuring it by optical density(OD), which is how much the material attenuates light. I don't have experience with it, so I can't give practical info. Those sheets are rated at OD5+, as are many laser safety glasses. This might lead you to be live that this is good enough. You should also recognize that a laser 1/10th as powerful would still be firmly class 4, and they're just using that as a guideline that the sheet is good enough for class 4. Does that mean it's good enough for a 1.5w, a 15w, or a 150w class 4? FWIW, my read is basically yes. It's a log scale, OD3 is 1/1000. OD4 1/10000 OD5 is 1/100000. As a reference, a 5mw laser is safe (almost always true, but you can do some other things to make it not) a 15w * OD5 would be .15mw. At least until a direct laser strike burns or melts though the window. Which it may, as you'd be dumping 15w of power into the window. A direct strike on an OD3 would give 15mw of transmitted power.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 06:13
|
|
|
Eyeballing the Prime Day deals this morning, and if anyone's been on the fence about getting into resin printing, the Voxelab Proxima is going for US$141 right now. It's more or less a Mars clone, 2K monochrome screen, and while I don't own one myself I've heard nothing but praise for it in the various printing user groups. I wouldn't hesitate to grab one if I had a place to put another printer right now... hell, I might get one anyway and just leave it in the box until I can get some more table space set up. https://www.amazon.com/Voxelab-Photocuring-Monochrome-Off-Line-Printing/dp/B08T1XV819
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 11:11
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Eyeballing the Prime Day deals this morning, and if anyone's been on the fence about getting into resin printing, the Voxelab Proxima is going for US$141 right now. It's more or less a Mars clone, 2K monochrome screen, and while I don't own one myself I've heard nothing but praise for it in the various printing user groups. I wouldn't hesitate to grab one if I had a place to put another printer right now... hell, I might get one anyway and just leave it in the box until I can get some more table space set up. Worth noting that Voxelab is a division of Flashforge, for the folks that remember how good those FDM printers have been and how good their support is. Now just need a wash/cure station sale. EDIT: Here you go.  Just swap the printer in the quoted post and then get the wash and cure station. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Jun 21, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 11:15
|
|
|
Is the photon mono x the most recent/highest resolution anycubic resin printer? Prime Day has it for $530, thinking of snagging one.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 12:36
|
|
|
The photon sonic mighty is a little cheaper. It's got a wider/deeper build plate but a slightly smaller z axis than the anycubic. 479 vs 529. That extra 30mm is tempting but I can safely say I don't think I've printed anything that really needed it though. Weirdly enough I'm having my own build area madness. I'm stuck trying to decide between an ender 5 plus and a cr-10 v2 or v3. I kinda wanna just get a regular v2 ender 3 but I really like the idea of having a huge build volume. Dunno if I like it ~300 bucks more though. gently caress it, went with a longer lk5 pro. 276 and it has some great reviews. Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Jun 21, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 14:07
|
|
|
I saw a weird CR-10 listing that had supports running from the Z-axis to the Y-axis and I had some hard "Monoprice Duplicator V2 supports" flashbacks. They wanted $423+ for that CR-10, too. Here it is. https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Mainboard-300x300x400mm-Expansion/dp/B087JQL5F7
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 14:27
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Eyeballing the Prime Day deals this morning, and if anyone's been on the fence about getting into resin printing, the Voxelab Proxima is going for US$141 right now. It's more or less a Mars clone, 2K monochrome screen, and while I don't own one myself I've heard nothing but praise for it in the various printing user groups. I wouldn't hesitate to grab one if I had a place to put another printer right now... hell, I might get one anyway and just leave it in the box until I can get some more table space set up. For what it's worth, the machine prints just as well as any other resin printer I've used but there are some downsides: 1. It is loud as poo poo. Super loud. 2. It has a very weird plate/head system that I really hated 3. My machine kept going out of level after a few prints. I attribute this to the strange build plate. Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Is the photon mono x the most recent/highest resolution anycubic resin printer? Prime Day has it for $530, thinking of snagging one. It's the only anycubic with a 4k screen that I can think of, but it's also got a much bigger screen so I don't think it's actually giving you a higher print resolution than the smaller 2k machines. I'm on my third one now -- two previous were returned for bad LCDs, and the one I have now is down as well until I my replacement screen comes in. If you do get one make sure you get a screen protector for it!
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 14:43
|
|
|
Aurium posted:Under typical use something as simple as a cardboard box would work for the incidental reflected light. It would only be a short delaying action if the laser breaks off and dangles around, or other situations where the beam could make direct contact with the enclosure. To be honest, if you expect your laser to make contact with the enclosure you're already doing something wrong. Thank you! This is enormously helpful, and I'll be double checking with both the laser seller and probably that website to make sure that I'm choosing the correct window material. Going for an inexpensive plywood enclosure is tempting, but I've had enough time on lasers to know that they'll bite as soon as you look away. And praying that you don't have a fire when you open the lid is a prayer I'd rather not make Thankfully I have access to the makerspace lasers to make the enclosure, so that's a good resource. I'd be willing to host some links and DXFs in case anyone wanted to OshCut or Send Cut Sent their own enclosures once I design it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 15:15
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:If you do get one make sure you get a screen protector for it! Got any recommendations? Or just any old screen protector that I cut to size?
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 16:39
|
|
|
Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Got any recommendations? Or just any old screen protector that I cut to size? The one I bought isn't on amazon anymore, but it was called "Supershieldz (3 Pack) for Apple iPad Pro 11 inch (2018 Release) Screen Protector, Anti Glare and Anti Fingerprint (Matte) Shield". The important thing is that you don't get the glass protectors. This is a great one because you don't have to trim it at all. It has already saved my screen once.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 16:46
|
|
|
I initially confused screen gasket and screen protector and only got a gasket. Then I punctured my FEP and got hardened resin on my screen (but not inside my machine) so I had to spend an afternoon alternately spraying my screen with IPA and scraping it with a non-marring paint scraper. Fun times, don't be like me, get a screen protector AND a gasket.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 17:59
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:I initially confused screen gasket and screen protector and only got a gasket. Then I punctured my FEP and got hardened resin on my screen (but not inside my machine) so I had to spend an afternoon alternately spraying my screen with IPA and scraping it with a non-marring paint scraper. Fun times, don't be like me, get a screen protector AND a gasket. I don't know if you have a monochrome machine, but if you do then you got very lucky. For me, any monochrome screen machine that gets a resin leak has always resulted in a screen replacement being needed (unless I have a protector in place). The polariser that is on top of the screen is just so fragile that even great care with a scraper can still easily tear it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 18:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 05:39 |
|
|
I have tried screen protectors several times on several printers and all I get afterwards are fails, so I invariably rip them off again. What the correct process here? Do I re-level? (I did) Do I up the exposure? (I did not) Does it go over the gasket tape, or do I have to cut it to shape? (tried both) What if there's dust under it? (every. drat. time.  )
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 18:17
|
|