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Invest in a tester so you can confirm that not only are your wires punched in correctly, but which wire needs another go at it The little plastic punch works in a pinch, but the mechanical one is better. Although I keep breaking the cheap ones. It is very frustrating to run a wire to your punchblock and power bad have a wire not hit
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Jun 16, 2021 04:02
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After not touching my Unifi Dream Machine for a few weeks, I tried connecting (through web and local interfaces) to the control panel and it wouldn't load. Everything on my network was still functioning (access to the internet, routing, wifi, etc.). I tried letting it sit to see if it'd work itself out, but I soon heard the fan spinning up. I pulled the plug to restart and everything went back to normal. Is this a known issue? Could there be a specific cause or anything I can do to prevent it in the settings? I purchased the UDM under the hope (dream?) that it'd be rock solid on the stability front.
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Jun 16, 2021 16:44
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Happy Pizza Guy posted:After not touching my Unifi Dream Machine for a few weeks, I tried connecting (through web and local interfaces) to the control panel and it wouldn't load. Everything on my network was still functioning (access to the internet, routing, wifi, etc.). I tried letting it sit to see if it'd work itself out, but I soon heard the fan spinning up. I pulled the plug to restart and everything went back to normal. I have a new computer with an Alcatel 4G LTE modem/router combo. If I don’t use the new computer for a day or so it loses the network even if I’m constantly using it on my laptop. It only happens if I am on my newest computer after a day or two of no activity. Occasionally when my Dad tries to watch the Apple TV box (generation 4) something happens to my modem’s SIM card that deauthorizes it. It is easily rebooted and everything works fine, but this never happens to any other system no matter how many open connections I am running. Three computers, one Apple TV (gen 3), and a RPi 0W plus 4 iPhones and two wireless WiFi extenders work fine all day, but as soon as he flips on the tv box it kicks the Alcatel off-line due to SIM “going bad.” I know it sounds like a lot but I haven’t had any ISP trouble at all, and only the gen 4 gives this problem. Any technical/software problems with the Alcatel or generic modem/router combos networks? I’ve got no complaints and my ISP only works with this specific Alcatel setup, so I can’t just get something else. DerekSmartymans fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jun 16, 2021 |
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Jun 16, 2021 19:14
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I've built a rather large workshop in my backyard, I have decided to make a room on the second story a game room for my kids. It's probably 100 feet from my home. With this in mind I want to have internet in that game room and I'd appreciate if someone can tell me if my idea is bad, or if there's a better option. We've got high speed cable internet in the house, I'm planning to put a splitter on the cable modem to run cat5e cable to the wifi router inside the house, and to run cat5e cable out to a second wifi router in the game room. It seems like it'll work just fine to me, but I'm a layman.
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Jun 17, 2021 16:33
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You can't split ethernet (although I sure have some interesting pictures of outages caused by people trying). Cable modems will generally only give out one IP address as well, they expect to see one router. If you can run cat5e cable out there, you'd just need a standalone access point for the workshop, and you'd run it to one of the inside ports on your router in the main house. The AP can be set with the same SSID/password combo.
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Jun 17, 2021 16:50
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Happy Pizza Guy posted:After not touching my Unifi Dream Machine for a few weeks, I tried connecting (through web and local interfaces) to the control panel and it wouldn't load. Everything on my network was still functioning (access to the internet, routing, wifi, etc.). I tried letting it sit to see if it'd work itself out, but I soon heard the fan spinning up. I pulled the plug to restart and everything went back to normal. I’ve had this happen with my UDM PRO… fans spin up, UI inaccessible. Sometimes it’s when I plug a new device in, sometimes at random. I think that it’s the controller software container crashing, hence why the network keeps running but you can’t access the UI. Sometimes I just leave it and it fixes itself, sometimes I’m impatient and reboot it from the oled touchscreen on the front. I’m running 1.84 firmware currently and have been for a while. Controller software is version: 6.0.43.0 Other than the aforementioned weirdness, I’m one of the rare proponents of the UDMP. It suits our needs just fine and I like the control and it’s stable enough IMO
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Jun 17, 2021 16:55
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KS posted:You can't split ethernet (although I sure have some interesting pictures of outages caused by people trying). Cable modems will generally only give out one IP address as well, they expect to see one router. Ok, got it. Thanks.
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Jun 17, 2021 21:35
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With Unifi how do I make sure somebody can't unplug one of my devices and plug in their own to get on the LAN? I thought I could use the MAC address filter set at the port level, but when I added the MAC address of the access point plugged into that port, it seemed like it blocks all the traffic coming from all the different MAC addresses connected to that AP. This physical access to the port level security is definitely overkill for my use case, but it seemed like something that should be doable so I figured why not. I was thinking maybe I could set the port profile to the VLAN the access point uses, so at least they go to my "insecure" VLAN if they plug into where the AP is plugged in, but does this screw anything up if both the network the AP is configured to use is set to the VLAN as well as the port profile the AP is plugged into is also the VLAN?
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Jun 18, 2021 08:21
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These are $5 if you absolutely don't want to punch things. Port on both ends.
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Jun 18, 2021 09:03
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Trouble connecting on my desktop. This is my router. Got Charter 450 mbps down https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/lin...W_ObV3LGU0CWdTq This is the dongle I'm using on my desktop. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J65G9DD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Worked fine at my place, but now it's only getting like .1 mbps down. It's connecting and detecting other networks though. Don't think it's the house. I'm in an old style 3:1 but it isn't too big. Laptop and phone pick up its signal fine. Also this dongle doesn't even detect the 5g network. If it is the dongle, is there a suggestion for a good one for this router? I know nothign at all about this so any help would be appreciated.
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Jun 18, 2021 12:27
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Biowarfare posted:These are $5 if you absolutely don't want to punch things. Port on both ends. And, if that's an ordinary stranded patch cable that was just fished through the wall, it's the only right option - you don't want to put stranded wiring in a punchdown block.
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Jun 18, 2021 16:04
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FizFashizzle posted:Trouble connecting on my desktop. Router looks fine, the dongle could be better.. your router supports MU-MIMO so why not your dongle / adapter? Is the dongle's antenna next to any metal that could be blocking it, like a file cabinet? quote:Worked fine at my place, but now it's only getting like .1 mbps down. It's connecting and detecting other networks though. I'm having trouble understanding what you're trying to say.. you're saying it worked fine, you took the dongle someplace else and when you came back your connection went to poo poo? quote:Don't think it's the house. I'm in an old style 3:1 but it isn't too big. Laptop and phone pick up its signal fine. Also this dongle doesn't even detect the 5g network. It's not supposed to, it's only for 802.11x / WiFi, the cellular network is not meant to be accessed with this dongle. That's what you get a portable hotspot for. quote:If it is the dongle, is there a suggestion for a good one for this router? I know nothign at all about this so any help would be appreciated. Still don't know enough about your situation to say whose fault it is, but it seems likely this isn't the greatest dongle, it's from an off-brand vendor. This one might be better, for the same price: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-usb-wifi-adapter-pc/dp/B08D72GSMS/ TP-Link is a known brand and a thread favorite, plus this dongle has multiple 'chip' antennas instead of a big single antenna like your current, which will increase throughput / speed especially since it takes advantage of the MU-MIMO tech on your router.
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Jun 18, 2021 16:29
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Binary Badger posted:Router looks fine, the dongle could be better.. your router supports MU-MIMO so why not your dongle / adapter? Ahhhh sorry for the confusion. I just moved into this new house. This dongle worked fine at my other one, but I'm not sure what the router was. It's under a desk but it's not behind any metal objects that I can think of. I'll move it around. I was going to swing by Best Buy today to try to find a new dongle. Would this be a good one? https://www.bestbuy.com/site/linksy...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Jun 18, 2021 17:44
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fletcher posted:With Unifi how do I make sure somebody can't unplug one of my devices and plug in their own to get on the LAN? I thought I could use the MAC address filter set at the port level, but when I added the MAC address of the access point plugged into that port, it seemed like it blocks all the traffic coming from all the different MAC addresses connected to that AP. Isn't this logical, though? If you want port security, you want the ability to block someone from plugging in whatever they want into that port => you have to selectively allow every single device you have. That includes anything bridging onto the network, AP or switch. What is the point if you allow a switch through as a whole and someone just unplugs one of your things on the switch and plugs in their own?
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Jun 18, 2021 18:12
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Biowarfare posted:Isn't this logical, though? If you want port security, you want the ability to block someone from plugging in whatever they want into that port => you have to selectively allow every single device you have. Yeah it does make sense it would work like this. Maybe a better way to go is set the port profile on those ports to the "insecure" VLAN and then use firewall rules to limit access to the "secure" VLAN. That way yeah you can plug in whatever, but it still won't be able to talk to my NAS or Desktop until I explicitly allow it.
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Jun 18, 2021 18:51
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fletcher posted:Yeah it does make sense it would work like this. Maybe a better way to go is set the port profile on those ports to the "insecure" VLAN and then use firewall rules to limit access to the "secure" VLAN. That way yeah you can plug in whatever, but it still won't be able to talk to my NAS or Desktop until I explicitly allow it. This is a hard problem even in corporate environments. I haven't looked at what unifi offers for port security (and also I'm assuming this is a residence so I'm assuming you don't care as much as one would in a corp environment), but probably what I'd do assuming you don't have any switches not in "secured" places where you can trust the average visitor to not gently caress with them is (or in general where unplugging something results in a "uh what"): - APs get the unrestricted profile since I figure you're going to notice if someone unplugs it and plugs in their own thing - Switch ports each get one, so that if someone plugs in their own switch on a wall jack it'll lock up Or just go full crazy and do 802.1x (which for your request seems like a better setup)
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Jun 18, 2021 20:41
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I know this may be a little specific for the thread, but google/VZWs forums don't give me anything so it's worth a shot. I have 1gig/FIOS F3100 router. Hooked up to ONT via ethernet. Literally every 1 minute on the second, I get this log message. code:Anyone have any idea why the router is constantly pinging the LED for moca even with no Moca connected and MoCa disabled? On the same topic, any idea how to get this dumb router to stop considering my plex server as a DNS attack? Googling gives other people with the error, but no solution that I can decipher. code:
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Jun 19, 2021 01:10
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So I have my router connected to a TP-Link's 5 port switch going in one physical direction. As in, the switch, its cables, and the devices it needs to connect to are going to the right. Going to the left, I have only two consoles, so two ethernet cables, but they're long 25ft ones. I don't really want to add another ethernet cable, but I did recently add a console to the aforementioned right-area. Is there a reliable device that is like TP-Link's switch, but only for two or three ports? I know I could revisit how I have the cables and plug a switch into the router for the right-area set of consoles, but I want to minimize the cables overall, so some device that can be unpowered like a mechanical HDMI switch is, that'd be great. That way I can just have the one long cable into this hypothetical device, and then out to two or three different consoles.
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Jun 19, 2021 02:35
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LODGE NORTH posted:So I have my router connected to a TP-Link's 5 port switch going in one physical direction. As in, the switch, its cables, and the devices it needs to connect to are going to the right. Going to the left, I have only two consoles, so two ethernet cables, but they're long 25ft ones. I don't really want to add another ethernet cable, but I did recently add a console to the aforementioned right-area. Why not just drop another 4/5 port switch where the consoles are? One cable to the switch, then you have short cables for the consoles, and room to expand should the need arise.
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Jun 19, 2021 02:57
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Why not just drop another 4/5 port switch where the consoles are? One cable to the switch, then you have short cables for the consoles, and room to expand should the need arise. This was part of my thinking, but I was mostly aiming for the least amount of cables and new devices as possible if possible. If I added another switch, I'd have to power it which would take up space on my already super exhausted surge protector. If it's not a thing, that's cool too, just wanted to see what was possible for this setup.
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Jun 19, 2021 04:29
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LODGE NORTH posted:This was part of my thinking, but I was mostly aiming for the least amount of cables and new devices as possible if possible. If I added another switch, I'd have to power it which would take up space on my already super exhausted surge protector. If it's not a thing, that's cool too, just wanted to see what was possible for this setup. POE pass through switches exist, but I don’t know enough to recommend one. The path of least resistance is probably to just add another power brick. This would only work if your source router supports POE.
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Jun 19, 2021 04:42
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:I know this may be a little specific for the thread, but google/VZWs forums don't give me anything so it's worth a shot. rebind-domain-ok=/abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz012345.plex.direct/ or just access it by ip:port Impotence fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Jun 19, 2021 |
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Jun 19, 2021 05:46
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LODGE NORTH posted:This was part of my thinking, but I was mostly aiming for the least amount of cables and new devices as possible if possible. If I added another switch, I'd have to power it which would take up space on my already super exhausted surge protector. If it's not a thing, that's cool too, just wanted to see what was possible for this setup. If you're looking for something small the Unifi Flex Mini can be powered by PoE and is smaller than a deck of cards. It's probably my favorite Unifi device.
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Jun 19, 2021 11:58
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withoutclass posted:If you're looking for something small the Unifi Flex Mini can be powered by PoE and is smaller than a deck of cards. It's probably my favorite Unifi device. Agree, that's a lovely little switch. I just put one behind my TV to replace a fatter brick-powered one. It's so neat, and one less brick. Also as a first dabble in Unifi switches, playing with the management to see if I want to expand my network and VLAN off my smart home bits from the internet. I did buy it right around the time that we all started being mad at Ubiquiti though. Actually, question on that topic: I think I've got my head round their slightly convoluted way of doing VLANs. But if I want to route stuff between VLANs, I need a router, correct? And their offering is the USG? Currently I just have the Flex Mini and 3 APs.
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Jun 19, 2021 14:23
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fletcher posted:Already got the keystone plate on there and a terminated cable, just need a little keystone coupler like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Poyiccot-Keystone-Connector-Ethernet-Extender/dp/B06XDF18P8/ Thanks for the help, was able to get a keystone coupler for dirt cheap local but they only have cat 5e couplers. The lan cable is cat 6, and I don't have gigabit internet; is it worth hunting around different Lowes and home Depot stores to find a cat 6 coupler for 10 bucks or will that literally make no difference? Edit: not with losing sleep over 8 bucks in your link. I'll just get the cat 6 two-pack. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Jun 19, 2021 |
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Jun 19, 2021 18:32
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PageMaster posted:Thanks for the help, was able to get a keystone coupler for dirt cheap local but they only have cat 5e couplers. The lan cable is cat 6, and I don't have gigabit internet; is it worth hunting around different Lowes and home Depot stores to find a cat 6 coupler for 10 bucks or will that literally make no difference? Unless you are doing multi gig or super long runs I don't think it makes a difference, but if the cable behind it really is cat6 it's nice to have the label on the wallplate consistent with it
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Jun 19, 2021 19:45
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PageMaster posted:Thanks for the help, was able to get a keystone coupler for dirt cheap local but they only have cat 5e couplers. The lan cable is cat 6, and I don't have gigabit internet; is it worth hunting around different Lowes and home Depot stores to find a cat 6 coupler for 10 bucks or will that literally make no difference? Mono price has this stuff all dirt cheap too.
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Jun 19, 2021 21:42
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Bobstar posted:Agree, that's a lovely little switch. I just put one behind my TV to replace a fatter brick-powered one. It's so neat, and one less brick. Yes, but any time you want inter-vlan routing you need a device capable of doing routing. You don’t have to use a Unifi router, nor do I recommend any and they’re the source of most of the complaints with Ubiquiti.
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Jun 19, 2021 23:11
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I'd happily recommend the edgerouter 6p that i use. Solves all my needs and is stable.
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Jun 20, 2021 09:08
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Ok thanks, so I'm thinking Unifi switches to go with the APs (and they come in the right size/PoE-ness for me), and an Edgerouter of some kind for routing? Looks like my ISP supports the Edgerouter with its ONT too, so that's nice.
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Jun 20, 2021 12:33
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Alright, got the internet working with that Linksys dongle. Speed is good. However, I'm getting the dreaded lag spike every 30 second kinda thing. Like when I'm playing ffxiv, things will just freeze for about 3 seconds before catching back up. I changed the channel my 5g is broadcasting on. There's not that many things hooked up to the internet in here. I changed my energy saving settings off. Would a mesh unit help with this? Sorry. I'm an idiot with networking and computers in general.
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Jun 20, 2021 20:37
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FizFashizzle posted:Alright, got the internet working with that Linksys dongle. Speed is good. A mesh (aka a wireless backhaul between access points instead of a wired backhaul) can help get signal to devices that aren’t powerful enough to communicate with the root access point but it isn’t a guaranteed fix for your issues. Other then the standard troubleshooting tips of making sure both the AP and dongle have updated drivers/firmware, I like to use an app called Wifi Analyzer (available on windows) to check signal strength. I try to aim for at least -67dBm or higher (closer to 0) for a stable connection. It’s also a good way to check if your router/AP might be jumping channels or if your device Is being too aggressive and trying to roam/ band steer between 2.4 and 5ghz. You can also open up your connection under control panel under status and see if the data rate (speed) is constantly fluctuating. For a static device like a desktop you don't want to be seeing constant changes to the modulation. Cyks fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jun 20, 2021 |
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Jun 20, 2021 21:18
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Cyks posted:A mesh (aka a wireless backhaul between access points instead of a wired backhaul) can help get signal to devices that aren’t powerful enough to communicate with the root access point but it isn’t a guaranteed fix for your issues. is this bad?  fwiw the internet is dropping in and out really bad with this app running.
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Jun 20, 2021 21:27
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Picture looks fine but it shouldn’t be dropping. What’s the other two networks detected? Is it a different device that you may have connected to at some point like a phone hotspot?
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Jun 20, 2021 21:47
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Cyks posted:Picture looks fine but it shouldn’t be dropping. What’s the other two networks detected? Is it a different device that you may have connected to at some point like a phone hotspot? Nah, that's just random stuff I'm picking up from the neighborhood.
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Jun 20, 2021 22:03
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FizFashizzle posted:is this bad? 1,6,11 are the channels you should choose from for 2.4GHz to not have overlap. Pick the least crowded of the 3.
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Jun 20, 2021 22:10
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astral posted:1,6,11 are the channels you should choose from for 2.4GHz to not have overlap. Pick the least crowded of the 3. In my area there are a lot of SSIDs all channels. Should I be basing my channel decisions off of what is least congested at my usual client location or from what the AP sees, from like what the UniFi AP RF analyzer does? And let’s say I have three access points, should they all have different channels or can they share channels? I would guess I need separate channels unless they can’t see each other. Boner Wad fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jun 21, 2021 |
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Jun 21, 2021 05:19
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Is there a thread favorite UPS? Or brands / models to stay well away from at least? Looking for something for my router, fios modem, voip adapter, headless NAS server (<400w psu). Just looking at prime day deals right now but I should get one of these irrespective of a sale. Don't need hours of life, just something to get a stable shutdown etc.
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Jun 21, 2021 13:30
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Boner Wad posted:In my area there are a lot of SSIDs all channels. Should I be basing my channel decisions off of what is least congested at my usual client location or from what the AP sees, from like what the UniFi AP RF analyzer does? Ideally both, as in look at the AP's survey and your devices in their commonly used locations, and find the channel that is the overall least congested. quote:And let’s say I have three access points, should they all have different channels or can they share channels? I would guess I need separate channels unless they can’t see each other. APs should always be put on different channels, unless they're far enough apart that they won't interfere with each other.
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Jun 21, 2021 13:52
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quote:Is there a thread favorite UPS? Or brands / models to stay well away from at least? You generally want "AVR" (automatic voltage regulation) - basically if the voltage level drops/rises a little bit, the UPS doesn't go to battery, but will still fix the power issue. "Standby" UPSes aren't generally worth it. That being said, APC has cheaped out a lot over the past few years and will only fix the power in one direction: up. (Ie: fix a lower voltage issue) and will let a high voltage issue through to your gear. Probably saved them ~$1 in parts, so they're really trying to squeeze every penny out of their systems. Cyberpower and Tripplite are probably the best makers right now. Amazon's house branded ones are a hard no - they literally get the cheapest stuff they can find and brand/market it to you as something better.
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Jun 21, 2021 14:05
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