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Advent Horizon posted:Do not buy Stihl pressure washers. I’m honestly turned off to the whole brand after this; if they sell this as a ‘premium’ product what other crap are they selling? This is unfortunate. I recently got a Stihl wlectric weed eater and it feels nice but the battery life leads a bit to be desired. Hopefully my weed eater lasts longer than that.
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Jun 14, 2021 18:42
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I know it’s a bit late but our DeWalt weed whacker is great. I used it to mow our yard last night and even the smaller 20V battery I put into it lasted the whole time.
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Jun 14, 2021 18:58
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I finally got through Stihl tech support - they’re loving useless. They told me to take it to a dealer 150 miles away on an island to get the hose replaced (which they will not sell me directly).
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Jun 14, 2021 19:23
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Advent Horizon posted:They told me to take it to a dealer 150 miles away on an island to get the hose replaced (which they will not sell me directly). What the gently caress is with this. I had a year old kitchen faucet spring a leak in its hose and price pfister (never again their poo poo is garbage) wouldn't sell me a replacement hose unless I could prove that I was a contractor. So now I tell everyone I know and strangers on the internet to never buy Price Pfister because their poo poo is garbage.
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Jun 14, 2021 21:24
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Arson Daily posted:What the gently caress is with this. I had a year old kitchen faucet spring a leak in its hose and price pfister (never again their poo poo is garbage) wouldn't sell me a replacement hose unless I could prove that I was a contractor. So now I tell everyone I know and strangers on the internet to never buy Price Pfister because their poo poo is garbage. There are a select few things I'll g out of my way to tell people not to buy also. How do these companies not realize how damaging this is to their reputation? Over simple, basic customer service that they are failing to provide.
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Jun 14, 2021 21:31
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You gotta escalate. The first layer of customer service has to follow the most inane rules with the least leeway to override them, it’s not their fault. Go over their head and get somebody that can make an exception and mail you the part or whatever. Twitting about your problem seems to be the easiest shortcut these days if the company has any sort of presence there.
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Jun 14, 2021 21:35
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Advent Horizon posted:I finally got through Stihl tech support - they’re loving useless. They told me to take it to a dealer 150 miles away on an island to get the hose replaced (which they will not sell me directly). That's ridiculous. If you bought it a month ago can you return it? If not, did you use a credit card that had a purchase protection benefit? Might be able to get it reimbursed that way.
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Jun 14, 2021 21:53
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Motronic posted:There are a select few things I'll g out of my way to tell people not to buy also. How do these companies not realize how damaging this is to their reputation? Over simple, basic customer service that they are failing to provide. With Price Pfister I get it, because home consumers are not The Customer. The Customer is the contractor who's gonna install fourteen hundred of them in new or renovated apartments every couple months. That's their model, and if they lose out on consumer sales so be it, they're still going to sell millions. From what I've seen, Stihl cares about chainsaws and chainsaws alone. Not that all their chainsaws are good, but I'd honestly be surprised if they had in-sourced manufacturing of anything other than chainsaws and chainsaw accessories. Maybe sending you to a service center is their way of hiding how the sausage gets made, so you don't see the brand they bought it from's name on the box for the repair part? I'd bet if you found a part number you could probably order that hose from somewhere.
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Jun 15, 2021 01:58
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No hydraulic hose shops around who could crimp on a new fitting?
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Jun 15, 2021 04:31
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Focus on chainsaws or not, I bought the Stihl because it was supposed to be a quality brand and this isn’t badge engineered - it clearly is a Stihl design, and it’s garbage. I’ve now shown three Stihl chainsaw owning friends and every one of them cringed. I still need to figure out how to get my money back but since I need a pressure washer now I bought a replacement from a quality, high end (lol) brand: Ryobi. Basically the next step up in electric pressure washers is a cold water Hotsy and I’m not quite there yet.  To recap, the Stihl hose setup is garbage and not user replaceable (the whole pressure washer has to come apart):  I took some comparison photos of the two, shall we start with the hose?  WHAT THE gently caress STIHL. The pressure washer is rated to 2000psi and they only gave it a 2170 hose? If the pump is putting out anywhere near rated pressure and you let go of the handle it could easily spike over that. Also note the Ryobi hose is reinforced while the Stihl is not. Ryobi takes standard fittings, Stihl is custom everything:  Ryobi holds spare nozzles up high where you can reach them:  Stihl stores them down at ground level, inside a compartment:  Said compartment is easily jammed shut by the cord, especially if you try to coil the cord neatly:  Here’s the ONE advantage to the Stihl I can find - the handle has a nice holder for the plug:  Vs this lol ‘cord storage’ lol for the Ryobi:  The Ryobi hose storage is honestly better, if less elegant, than the hose reel as it doesn’t kink the hose like the Stihl. The Ryobi plug is also better since it’s not a wall wart and I can use it without an extension cord in my covered exterior outlets.
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Jun 15, 2021 04:49
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Advent Horizon posted:I took some comparison photos of the two, shall we start with the hose? slidebite fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jun 15, 2021 |
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Jun 15, 2021 06:07
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slidebite posted:…just as an fyi as you (and others) may not be aware. Hoses like that are rated for 4x their rated labeled "working" pressure as a fail/burst pressure. So don't be concerned that its marginal, it really isn't. That’s actually really reassuring. These pressures could really mess up a finger if the hose failed wrong.
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Jun 15, 2021 07:17
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Any suggestions for a cheap but decent plasma cutter? I have 20A 240V available as well as 20A 120V.
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Jun 16, 2021 22:02
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I have this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072P6BXQ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cheap and does the job.
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Jun 17, 2021 21:16
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Picked up a Rigid portable toolbox to bring All The Tools to my parents house last week. It's basically two cavernous boxes stacked on some wheels and do that well enough. I personally like more dividers and such, but it wouldn't have worked with the bulky stuff I was bringing* and I will appreciate the versatility of an open space when my load out changes. What I don't like about it is that the lift handles are attached to the lids of both boxes. It puts all the load through the latches, which is hard to trust. Also, the latches on the bottom box don't feel like they have positive engagement, not helping the trust issues. I'm going to have to get some carabiner clips to lock them closed. Also, I can't open the lid of the top box while the handle is extended and the handle doesn't go down flush with the top of the lower box when retracted. For the money their fine, I like the optional "milk crate" box one can buy. It would have been cheaper to get the three pack with the organizer, but that was an online only product and I didn't have the time to wait for shipping. *Bottom box: circular saw, angle grinder, sander, three drills and drivers, three battery chargers. Top box: five batteries, drill and driver bits, sand paper, pocket hole system, and a bunch of measuring tools and marking tools. Uthor fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Jun 18, 2021 |
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Jun 18, 2021 21:38
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Picked up a pair of drivers from the opposite end of the Milwaukee range - an m12 screwdriver for cabinetry assembly (and probably, interior work too) and an m18 high torque 1/2 impact.  The m12 screwdriver is really good for delicate uses - when driving screws into plastic or wood, the m18 fuel drill I have puts out too much torque even at the minimum setting and tends to strip the screw threads. One of those downsides of a drill that feels like it puts out the same kind of power as a disc grinder. The m12 is a mechanical clutch instead of an electrical reverse based one like the m18 drill, which seems to more reliably stop at the same place every time (and you can still drive the clutch to get the heads to rotate a tiny bit more if you like). As for the m18 impact, I have a middle of the range 650ftlb air impact that should have been good enough for anything, but the engine I am rebuilding at the moment was so poorly assembled that I couldn't break one of the head bolts with it (Then I had to replace the first 3 foot breaker bar I used, because it broke the breaker bar). Hopefully the M18 high torque will prevent that in future as the $500 to buy the thing should quickly pay off in not spending 7 whole hours drilling another broken head bolt out. It makes around 1000ftlb of torque on paper, though in practice air tools generally perform better than their rating and electrical tools perform worse. Between the high impact, the low impact and an impact driver with a 1/2 drive adapter, this makes a pretty good set that can break stuck bolts, break regular bolts and thread bolts back on without crushing them from too much torque.
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Jun 20, 2021 02:19
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The high torque Milwaukee makes 1000 in forward but 1400 in reverse. 
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Jun 20, 2021 02:50
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The talk of air chisel based pickle forks earlier in the thread makes me wonder - are dynadrills / electric power hammers any replacement for a standard air chisel, seeing as they have a 'hammer without rotation' mode? My impression is that they don't run as aggressively as the air chisel but I haven't used one in chisel mode before. I haven't got an air chisel and would probably be looking at one down the line as the ute has horrendous tie rods that will need a lot of work to loosen up.
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Jun 20, 2021 04:34
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Anecdotally, a Hilti TE70 (SDS-Max) hits somewhere around 80% of the power of a CP717 air hammer (.498" shank). There's a somewhat hard to identify difference in how they hit. The rotary hammer is a chunkier, slower hit, and the air hammer is a really high impulse hit. Those are both really goddamn large hammers though, not the more common smaller versions. Normal SDS-Plus rotary hammers definitely don't hit as hard as normal .401" shank air hammer though.
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Jun 20, 2021 04:44
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Hypnolobster posted:Anecdotally, a Hilti TE70 (SDS-Max) hits somewhere around 80% of the power of a CP717 air hammer (.498" shank). There's a somewhat hard to identify difference in how they hit. The rotary hammer is a chunkier, slower hit, and the air hammer is a really high impulse hit. Those are both really goddamn large hammers though, not the more common smaller versions. Cool, the SDS MAX m18 costs about $2000 for the tool alone so I think I'm fine with spending about $100 for a reasonable 10mm shank air hammer. Next question I suppose is, how do you tell how good an air chisel actually is? Since air tools are more industrial these days you don't see any reviews for them. In the past I've bought RUPES and Pneutrend, and was looking at this one - https://www.wyatt.co.nz/shop/AIR+TOOLS/Pneumatic+Tools+Other/Pneutrend+Pneumatic+190mm+Barrel+Air+Hammer+PN-41102H/x_sku/PN%2d41102H.html. There seems to be a lower blow per minute on this than cheaper Chinesium models but I presume that might imply a heavier hammer?
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Jun 20, 2021 05:02
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Are you just going to be cracking ball joints and stuff? If so I just have a cheap Husky one from Home Depot and it is fine.
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Jun 20, 2021 05:27
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BigPaddy posted:Are you just going to be cracking ball joints and stuff? If so I just have a cheap Husky one from Home Depot and it is fine. In the long run I'd be looking to use it for removing spot welds and seperating/removing layered steel as well. At the moment, the ute I'm working on, as well as the future car (HQ Kingswood) that I plan on restoring, both have a bunch of annoyingly spot welded panel steel reeds that are bent over to manage cables etc - they tend to lose their strength after just undoing them once so was intending to blast them off and replace them with rivet nuts and cable saddles wherever possible. I have tin snipped and cold chiselled them off so far but that leaves the spot welded base behind and those things love to create rust.
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Jun 20, 2021 05:35
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Not necessarily harbor freight but something like this https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in...cid=paid_google|||63657&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid=CjwKCAjwq7aGBhADEiwA6uGZp4UN254viP5qVfWNwOGsgH12OrnZ1XeMykw8R88DPyYZz4GzmTGw6RoC4bsQAvD_BwE Is my go-to spot weld remover. Needs some cleanup after but works well for leaving the sheet metal largely undamaged.
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Jun 20, 2021 05:41
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While I'm in here for tool recs, I was also wondering if there was any decent alternative to this deep impact socket set I was looking at. https://www.bunnings.co.nz/bahco-14-piece-deep-impact-socket-set_p0167913 This one has rises all the way from 10mm to 19mm, stamped sizes on the sockets and reasonably sized walls. I can't seem to find many impact sets with stamped heads and this is a critical for me as I don't want to have to constantly fuss with sockets that rub their laser etched head stamps off. I am in NZ but pretty much any amazon/ebay listing that can beat that or is worth a look I'd be up for.
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Jun 20, 2021 05:57
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Spades posted:As for the m18 impact, I have a middle of the range 650ftlb air impact that should have been good enough for anything, but the engine I am rebuilding at the moment was so poorly assembled that I couldn't break one of the head bolts with it (Then I had to replace the first 3 foot breaker bar I used, because it broke the breaker bar). Are you rebuilding a cargo ship engine?
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Jun 20, 2021 07:15
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MomJeans420 posted:Are you rebuilding a cargo ship engine? I kinda wish I was, but it's just a 4d56 diesel that was shittily rebuilt by a horse farmer after blowing its head gasket. The head bolt in question was tightened to such an unreasonable degree that the head was actually physically compressed underneath it, leaving a 1mm deep negative imprint of the washer inside the head casting. Lucky that the head was crappy 1980s alloy, as otherwise it probably would have excavated the block deck. I think they figured that torqueing heads is all about the total foot pounds across the entire thing, because half the other head bolts came off with a hand ratchet and a mild grunt.
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Jun 20, 2021 07:39
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 So uh, what is my best bet on getting these out. They rounded out immediately.
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Jun 20, 2021 17:24
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Put the ball end of a ball peen hammer against it and then smack that hammer with your big hammer. It sounds stupid but of all the things in the Eric The Car Guy's video about removing those damned screws, that's what has worked 90+ percent of the time. Plus it's easier than most other methods.
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Jun 20, 2021 17:50
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If you have a manual impact driver, it may work okay. https://handymansworld.net/how-to-use-a-manual-impact-driver/ If not, I've tried drilling out and using a left hand extractor bit, worked once, broke the bit inside the second time and was left with hardened steel that I couldn't drill out. What worked well, if not elegantly, was taking a cold chisel and just hammering it at an angle in the unscrew direction. The screw was mangled before I started, but I was able to get the chisel to bite and a few whacks got it to loosen and eventually come out. I then threw the screws away and never put new ones in. Edit: ^^^wear safety glasses if you smack a hammer with a hammer! ^^^
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Jun 20, 2021 17:52
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Cat Hatter posted:Put the ball end of a ball peen hammer against it and then smack that hammer with your big hammer. Lmfao this worked immediately.
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Jun 20, 2021 17:56
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Cat Hatter posted:Put the ball end of a ball peen hammer against it and then smack that hammer with your big hammer. What does this do? Shatter the screw or something?
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Jun 20, 2021 17:59
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opengl128 posted:What does this do? Shatter the screw or something? Shocks the threads enough to loosen up. You could also do this with a punch, if you lack a second hammer. Sacrificial torx bits and a small impact also work wonders. Hammer a slightly-too-large torx bit in, and between the hammering and the impact it usually comes right out
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Jun 20, 2021 18:04
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opengl128 posted:What does this do? Shatter the screw or something? Breaks the rust on the socket cap and threads.
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Jun 20, 2021 18:14
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It may also deform the metal of the head enough to allow the preload on the threads to drop a bit.
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Jun 20, 2021 18:36
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I've always wondered why there isn't a hot gas operated impact that uses a .22 blank cartridge. Change the restriction in the exhaust port so it goes to anything from a gentle kiss to the subject bolt cosplaying as cheese.
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Jun 20, 2021 18:48
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um excuse me posted:I've always wondered why there isn't a hot gas operated impact that uses a .22 blank cartridge. Change the restriction in the exhaust port so it goes to anything from a gentle kiss to the subject bolt cosplaying as cheese. A manual impact on the end of a ramset. someone has to have tried it. whether or not they lived to report its resounding success is a different story.
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Jun 20, 2021 19:47
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Uthor posted:If you have a manual impact driver, it may work okay. Emphasis on "may". 
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Jun 20, 2021 19:51
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It looks like the impact worked great, the bit didn't like it much though.
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Jun 20, 2021 23:07
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Anyone used those one hand sawzalls the Milwaukee make? I need one and it just seems like it would be better some automotive work where space is tight.
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Jun 27, 2021 00:53
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BigPaddy posted:Anyone used those one hand sawzalls the Milwaukee make? I need one and it just seems like it would be better some automotive work where space is tight. I have an m12 hackzall. It's OK. If I put too aggressive of a blade in, it kind of has a habit of biting into a cut then oscillating my arm instead of the blade. I don't think the full m18 sawzall has that problem as much because its a much heavier tool.
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Jun 27, 2021 01:27
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