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emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology

CancerCakes posted:

-Lots of good info--

Thank you, this is all very helpful.

CancerCakes posted:

If you have any windows that get large amounts of sunlight consider solar control / low-emissivity / IR rejection coatings (different name for similar function), which essentially reduce the amount of IR passing through the window while not significantly reducing transmission.

This especially is not something I had thought but may be very relevant.

I do live in the US, in Central Virginia, and obviously I should have included that info. With regards to energy savings, I do not have any expectation of getting my money back in savings at all. I look at it more as an investment in quality of life. I would likely lower my energy bills some, but not enough for it to ever make sense on a purely financial level.

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PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009
Wife switched all our home lights out to 5k color temp and I can't go to the bathroom or walk around my house at night anymore without sunglasses.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Does anyone know anything about asphalt shingle treatments like Roof Maxx? https://roofmaxx.com/

Our roof is aging and probably getting relatively close to replacement time, but two complicating factors make me hesitant to do that now:
- availability of roofers in my area is pretty much non-existent given huge demand for new construction (plus elevated prices)
- we were planning on doing a significant renovation in the relatively term that would change a significant portion of the roof-line, and I don't want to tear off a bunch of roofing in a few years that was just installed. We've put these plans on hold due to the current economic situation, but will hopefully be moving forward with them _sometime_ in the next 5 years ago or so.

A local, well-regarded roofing company provides this Roof Maxx treatment, and came by to inspect the roof and give an estimate. The guy said our roof is a good candidate for it, and is confident even the worst parts of it would last another 5 years if treated.

It'd be great to have some peace of mind for the next couple years here, without dealing with a more expensive roof job. However, I don't know very much about roofing or how asphalt shingles work, and some snake-oil alarms are going off in my head.

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

Steve French posted:

Does anyone know anything about asphalt shingle treatments like Roof Maxx? https://roofmaxx.com/

Our roof is aging and probably getting relatively close to replacement time, but two complicating factors make me hesitant to do that now:
- availability of roofers in my area is pretty much non-existent given huge demand for new construction (plus elevated prices)
- we were planning on doing a significant renovation in the relatively term that would change a significant portion of the roof-line, and I don't want to tear off a bunch of roofing in a few years that was just installed. We've put these plans on hold due to the current economic situation, but will hopefully be moving forward with them _sometime_ in the next 5 years ago or so.

A local, well-regarded roofing company provides this Roof Maxx treatment, and came by to inspect the roof and give an estimate. The guy said our roof is a good candidate for it, and is confident even the worst parts of it would last another 5 years if treated.

It'd be great to have some peace of mind for the next couple years here, without dealing with a more expensive roof job. However, I don't know very much about roofing or how asphalt shingles work, and some snake-oil alarms are going off in my head.

It's snake-oil. My theory is that it's market segmentation by roofing contractors - tons of people can't afford a new roof, so sell them a 'cheaper' solution. Asphalt roofs routinely last well past their anticipated age and customers will attribute this to the roofing treatment rather than to normal variance in longevity.

Their "research" is pretty funny, especially when you get to the end and realize that it was funded by the soybean lobby:
https://www.victorsroofing.com/wp-content/uploads/Roof-Maxx-OSU-Technical-Report.pdf

Weird link because the link on their website is dead.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
My next door neighbor had it done earlier this year on his roof. It looks a lot better, but that would be due to the tons of bleach or chlorine they cleaned it with first. His roof has to be nearing 20 years old which is pushing it here in FL, so I'm not sure what he thinks he will get out of it now. I don't blame him for trying to put off a $20k reroof though.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Rescue Toaster posted:

Whoever did my kitchen was a moron. The spot for the fridge is counter-depth, but not quite big enough for a 36" inch. When you measure to the edge of the counter (or the molding at the bottom) it's like 35.5". And of course all the appliances are black. So all I can actually fit are a couple models of 33" wide and counter depth. There's literally 2 or 3 options of these tiny 17-18cu fridges, and they're all out of stock for months at home depot or lowes.

Our fridge has been making an odd noise - almost sounds like a mechanical grinding or for lack of a better term, a liquid boiling or getting squeezed through something... which is of course what's happening in a fridge. It still seems to be running/cooling fine for now, but if it died there's literally nothing I could replace it with. I guess buy a mini fridge and then have just that and the chest freezer in the basement for... some indeterminate amount of time.

The little coffee 'nook' shelf next to the fridge might possibly be movable though it's nailed to the wall and floor. But if I could pull them without destroying everything I could move it over possibly...

EDIT: Also of course my wife is desperate for an ice maker (we had the water line put in while replacing the water heater), and I just looked at the title of the thread which lines up with most of the reviews of fridges.

I'm in a similar situation, I have about a 34.5 inch opening and need counter depth. Did you look at this one?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigida...9054358#overlay

it says "standard depth" but it's not, it's only 29 1/8" deep.

my 16 year old GE profile fridge has been grunting every so often for three years. even the icemaker still works!

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Need some advice. I spent most of my Sunday replacing a beat up exterior fiberglass door with a new prehung steel door. The door is in now and opens/closes pretty smoothly (takes a bit more effort than the old door but is also sealed a lot better), but I have a gap between door and jamb on the handle side that I'm not sure what to do about. The gap is about 1/4"-5/16" and pretty consistent on that side. Door is tight up against the weather-stripping but my handle latch doesn't actually touch the jamb. That side of the frame is only installed with temporary screws at the moment, do I just need to add a bunch of shims there? Feels like all that's gonna do is bow out the frame, but I'm not seeing any other solutions. Hardware is mismatched because I just reattached the old knob last night.



mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Definitely shim it where the deadbolt and the latch interface with the frame. You can shim it top and bottom as well to keep the frame mostly uniform. Beyond that, in my amateur opinion, if it latches solidly and the deadbolt extends a good length into the bolt recess, and the door seals when it shuts, then you should be good.

But yeah, definitely shim generously where the latching and locking action is.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


mutata posted:

Definitely shim it where the deadbolt and the latch interface with the frame. You can shim it top and bottom as well to keep the frame mostly uniform. Beyond that, in my amateur opinion, if it latches solidly and the deadbolt extends a good length into the bolt recess, and the door seals when it shuts, then you should be good.

But yeah, definitely shim generously where the latching and locking action is.

Alright. I had some stuffed in those spots that I took out before taking the photos, I will just get more aggressive with it and see what happens.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

I'll reiterate that I'm a dumb DIYer, so I'm interested to hear others' opinions. I usually have the opposite problem when I do doors, heh. I'm excited if I can even force them closed after my first try with the shims.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

PageMaster posted:

Wife switched all our home lights out to 5k color temp and I can't go to the bathroom or walk around my house at night anymore without sunglasses.

5K lights belong in garages, basements, and maybe laundry rooms. 4K is ok for the kitchen, but anyone putting anything above 3K in actual living areas is a crazy person.

People used to (and still do) complain about sitting in an office under harsh fluorescent lights, usually at 5K temps. Why would anyone do that to themselves in a house.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I have a few neighbors with 4-5K lighting at home, it's horribad

I can't see any reason for having over 3K except for the aforementioned garage, laundry room, utility closets etc

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
Y'all are crazy. I switched my kitchen, dining room, and office to Phillips daylight leds and it is a thousand times better than the Cree warm whites that were there before.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

PageMaster posted:

Wife switched all our home lights out to 5k color temp and I can't go to the bathroom or walk around my house at night anymore without sunglasses.
This is a nightmare scenario, file for divorce. Maybe she's doing the "Kristin Wiig tying sweatpants at 8pm" scene, but always.

Or spend $$ on those colour changing things, at least there's a chance for sexy mood lights on occasion.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

armorer posted:

Y'all are crazy. I switched my kitchen, dining room, and office to Phillips daylight leds and it is a thousand times better than the Cree warm whites that were there before.

you're using 5000K in a dining room? wtf

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
I've got a concrete path in my backyard that's seen better days; there's cracks, some spalling, a few uneven edges, and a couple patches a previous owner did that stand out from the original material. If I grab some vinyl concrete patcher can I just chisel out the old stuff, patch and trowel it level, then cover everything with a neutral paint color when cured?

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

armorer posted:

Y'all are crazy. I switched my kitchen, dining room, and office to Phillips daylight leds and it is a thousand times better than the Cree warm whites that were there before.

Oh god my day job literally involves lighting and the only time I try to mimic commercial 5000k lightbulbs is when I want something to look harsh and industrial. In my house everything is 3000k except for the basement which is 4000k.

I will say that warm white aka 2700k is annoyingly yellow a lot of the time.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

actionjackson posted:

you're using 5000K in a dining room? wtf

Every single bulb in my house is 5000k. Why would I want everything I own washed in the warm glow of piss colored lighting? If your house looks industrial with neutral lights it's because you've painted and decorated it poorly.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Wallet posted:

Every single bulb in my house is 5000k. Why would I want everything I own washed in the warm glow of piss colored lighting? If your house looks industrial with neutral lights it's because you've painted and decorated it poorly.

have you ever actually talked with someone with expertise in lighting

https://www.lumens.com/how-tos-and-advice/kelvin-color-temperature.html

bottom of the page shows some general guidelines.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jun 22, 2021

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

I LITERALLY SLEEP IN A RACING CAR. DO YOU?
p.s. ask me about my subscription mattress
Ultra Carp

Wallet posted:

Every single bulb in my house is 5000k. Why would I want everything I own washed in the warm glow of piss colored lighting? If your house looks industrial with neutral lights it's because you've painted and decorated it poorly.

This is a masterful troll

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

Wallet posted:

Every single bulb in my house is 5000k. Why would I want everything I own washed in the warm glow of piss colored lighting? If your house looks industrial with neutral lights it's because you've painted and decorated it poorly.

If you like it more power to you. But, to me it’s like aesthetic minimalism. You can do it well if you’re talented or wealthy but there’s a lot more ways to do it poorly. For general household use I’d never install or recommend daylight lamps. 3000k is an improvement over incandescent yellow without having that garish tint that higher color temperature light sources have.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

actionjackson posted:

have you ever actually talked with someone with expertise in lighting

Do photographers count? I know a fuckload of professional photographers. I can't think of the last house I've been in with <4000k in anything but bedrooms. If you want mood lighting buy some candles.

The link you edited in is nonsense. 5000k isn't inherently brighter than the lurid piss glow of 2700.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Jun 22, 2021

CancerCakes
Jan 10, 2006

If you are taking room lighting advice from photographers why not just use flashbulbs?

To me 5k and minimal aesthetic just seems like a hospital or mortuary, if you like that then go for it.

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

So what’s your favorite way to remove a decade of cat stink from the floor of a house besides setting it on fire and calling servpro?

Right now I have full strength enzymatic digester down and I’m preparing to gut that corner of the room down to the studs and joists, but I would love to not have to do that step right away.

CancerCakes
Jan 10, 2006

Imo gut it, because otherwise you will phantom smell it because you know how bad it was.

Or fabreeze it and flip the house

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
You can hit the subfloor with a coat of shellac primer to help block the odor

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

I LITERALLY SLEEP IN A RACING CAR. DO YOU?
p.s. ask me about my subscription mattress
Ultra Carp

CancerCakes posted:

Imo gut it, because otherwise you will phantom smell it because you know how bad it was.

Or fabreeze it and flip the house

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

corgski posted:

So what’s your favorite way to remove a decade of cat stink from the floor of a house besides setting it on fire and calling servpro?

Right now I have full strength enzymatic digester down and I’m preparing to gut that corner of the room down to the studs and joists, but I would love to not have to do that step right away.

The enzyme stuff for cat piss that sort of smells like bananas seemed to work okay back when I had a cat that liked to pee on things but I don't remember what it was called. I found this stuff to work alright for non cat-piss smells so maybe it would work for cat piss also?


CancerCakes posted:

To me 5k and minimal aesthetic just seems like a hospital or mortuary, if you like that then go for it.

Here's my living room in terrifying industrial 5000k. It's not really minimal and I don't think it feels like either of those things but :shrug:.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


drat, wish I'd painted my living room bright pink now instead of bright green.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


:3

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009
She's says she likes white and bright so that's what she found! We did just come from Seattle in the middle of winter where she got horrible depressed so that might play a part. Fortunately she had to use the bathroom in the middle of the night last night so she's at least putting in dimmer switches now.

Edit: or we need to paint the walls not white which I'm totally ok with.

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

Wallet posted:

The enzyme stuff for cat piss that sort of smells like bananas seemed to work okay back when I had a cat that liked to pee on things but I don't remember what it was called. I found this stuff to work alright for non cat-piss smells so maybe it would work for cat piss also?

That's good to know! Right now I have this stuff down which was recommended to me a while back when I had to clean out a basement that had become a critter graveyard. It has instructions for treating everything from bathrooms to grease traps.



https://smile.amazon.com/Nilodor-128-ZYM-Original-Digester/dp/B0113ZHYYK/

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

I LITERALLY SLEEP IN A RACING CAR. DO YOU?
p.s. ask me about my subscription mattress
Ultra Carp

Wallet posted:

The enzyme stuff for cat piss that sort of smells like bananas seemed to work okay back when I had a cat that liked to pee on things but I don't remember what it was called. I found this stuff to work alright for non cat-piss smells so maybe it would work for cat piss also?

Here's my living room in terrifying industrial 5000k. It's not really minimal and I don't think it feels like either of those things but :shrug:.



nice succulent collection!

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

Wallet posted:

Here's my living room in terrifying industrial 5000k. It's not really minimal and I don't think it feels like either of those things but :shrug:.



It works because it's not minimal at all. Blueish-white and hot pink is a combination that works really well together, and your walls warm the room significantly. I don't think that room would feel stuffy with 3000k either but the 5000k definitely makes it pop.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



I want to put a shelf or two into my garage. It's going to be rough duty shelf. Dirty tools, various containers of woodworking liquids, etc. Normally I'd grab a sheet or two of 3/4 OSB and roll, but I just watched a video where he talks about putting up two levels of shelving for $30, and I see the OSB is currently $62 a sheet at Lowe's, so I'm considering what my best options really are.

I strolled through Lowe's and saw a variety of options. There's the fasttrack system from rubbermaid which is metal grates, there's melamine, particleboard, the edge-glued frakenstein'd shelf boards, etc. I'm open to suggestions on what would be a good option here, as well as an installation recommendation. The walls look like this, and I don't want it to reach all the way to the floor.


e: That is one hell of a living room. Even though I wouldn't choose that, I like the design and I respect the execution

The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jun 22, 2021

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I want to put a shelf or two into my garage. It's going to be rough duty shelf. Dirty tools, various containers of woodworking liquids, etc. Normally I'd grab a sheet or two of 3/4 OSB and roll, but I just watched a video where he talks about putting up two levels of shelving for $30, and I see the OSB is currently $62 a sheet at Lowe's, so I'm considering what my best options really are.

I strolled through Lowe's and saw a variety of options. There's the fasttrack system from rubbermaid which is metal grates, there's melamine, particleboard, the edge-glued frakenstein'd shelf boards, etc. I'm open to suggestions on what would be a good option here, as well as an installation recommendation. The walls look like this, and I don't want it to reach all the way to the floor.


e: That is one hell of a living room. Even though I wouldn't choose that, I like the design and I respect the execution


I've got the fasttrack system. They have hooks and hanger options in addition to the shelving. It works quite well (but was more expensive than I would have liked it to be).

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

Wallet posted:

Here's my living room in terrifying industrial 5000k. It's not really minimal and I don't think it feels like either of those things but :shrug:.



That's a super cool room and I kind of love it, but I've got my phone dimmed and in night mode so I'll have to wait to check in normal conditions.

Our house came with a bunch of cheap blue LED bulbs that made every room look dingy and feel cursed after the sun went down and you turned on the lights. Also made all the oak floors and other woodwork look jaundiced. Only the CFLs I encountered in my old apartment were worse. Replaced them all with 2.7 - 3k bulbs (including incandescents because they don't flicker and I can't handle flickering, especially on dimmers - I'm an oversensitive weirdo when it comes to lighting) and poo poo looks a lot better. However, the warm temp works because it's an old house full of wood and colorful walls (only the kitchen and bathroom are white), and the awesome original flooring looks especially good with the super warm light (and no longer jaundiced).

On the flip side, I've definitely seen a couple mostly white modern interiors with 3k or lower and it's like viewing everything through a nicotine stain filter. Interiors like that need neutral/cooler lighting.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Anyone have a good source for some quality 3K bulbs? I bought the 40 pack of FEIT bulbs from Costco about 3 years ago when we moved into my current home, and I have about 25 dead bulbs already out of those 40. I'm guessing I got a bad batch and will end up trying to warranty them, but honestly I'll pay a bit more not to deal with the hassle of changing the bulbs.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Steve French posted:

Does anyone know anything about asphalt shingle treatments like Roof Maxx? https://roofmaxx.com/

My first question: Is your roof leaking?

Answer to your post: Don't.

They're spraying your roof with a sealer. Roofers have been doing this for nearly a century; this is just re-packaging the trick & charging more (it's now about a grand to spray up to 20-squares). Hardly anyone does it any more on asphalt-shingle roofs, because roofers make far more money selling you a new roof.

As already noted, it's a lot of woo about how soybean oil magically penetrates the asphalt coating. It doesn't; it can't. If it could, you have far bigger problems with your roof.

Once they do this, you will have to replace the roof.

I've toured the GAF plant in Parsippany (NJ) as part of my job and watched shingles being made. Shingles fail due to UV and age; the rate at which they fail is due more to the thickness of the foundation material (essentially, tar paper, with fiberglass bound in), then the adhesive that holds the granules, and the granules themselves. New roofs begin shedding granules immediately, and will shed them throughout the life of the installed shingle, although friction/mechanical action (walking on them, dragging tree limbs) accelerate this somewhat. The difference between 25-year and 40+year shingles is the thickness & composition of the foundation, and the amount of granular media coating on it.

What finally kills a roof is when the foundation becomes so brittle that you cannot bend a shingle back far enough to swing a hammer cleanly to nail a new shingle in below it. Such a roof may have a couple of repairs left in it, but it's a game to see if you can slide in +1 new shingle than you wind up cracking.

And for the love of god, don't powerwash your roof, or clean it with chemicals. You are trading years of roof life for a temporary aesthetic improvement.
______

Unless your roof is actively leaking somewhere, leave it alone. If it does start to leak, call a licensed roofer and see if it can be repaired.

If your roof is near the end of its life, but still tight, you can wait and see if you hit the lottery, i.e. a windstorm blows off a few tabs, and a roofer finds that you roof fails the brittle test. If this happens, call your homeowners insurance. Once they confirm that the roof can't be repaired, they'll pay to replace (possibly) the entire roof, The only caveat is: the southern exposure ages out faster (unless you have good shade) so they may cover replacing only one slope if the northern side is still good.

I am an adjuster. I have done thousands of roof claims.

We replaced our roof last year. It was installed in 1985 with 20-year shingles. I repaired it probably ten times since buying the house in 1992. They were finally so brittle I couldn't get a new shingle in, but that roof never leaked once in 33-years. It cost me the deductible to get a new roof.

Wallet posted:

Every single bulb in my house is 5000k. Why would I want everything I own washed in the warm glow of piss colored lighting? If your house looks industrial with neutral lights it's because you've painted and decorated it poorly.

EVERY MORNING I WAKE UP ROLL OVER AND SLAM LED PHOTONS INTO MY RETINA

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Jun 22, 2021

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Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I want to put a shelf or two into my garage. It's going to be rough duty shelf. Dirty tools, various containers of woodworking liquids, etc. Normally I'd grab a sheet or two of 3/4 OSB and roll, but I just watched a video where he talks about putting up two levels of shelving for $30, and I see the OSB is currently $62 a sheet at Lowe's, so I'm considering what my best options really are.

I just ended up using shelving standards for all of my garage shelving needs. The rubbermaid stuff is really expensive IIRC but there are tons of alternatives on Amazon and they're all basically the same poo poo. The double slot ones are interchangeable between brands (e.g these random ones on Amazon) as long as you pick some with an appropriate load tolerance. If you need to adjust the shelf height later it takes all of two minutes moving the brackets which makes a lot of sense to me for a garage. They're not particularly hard to cut so that you can get the height you want.

As far as what to use as actual shelves that's a lot trickier right now. The closetmaid wire shelves that Home Depot carries are fairly cheap for their size but the weight capacity isn't great if you're putting heavy stuff on them.


corgski posted:

That's good to know! Right now I have this stuff down which was recommended to me a while back when I had to clean out a basement that had become a critter graveyard. It has instructions for treating everything from bathrooms to grease traps.
The banana poo poo I had came from a pet supply store and it came in a tiny bottle like it was superglue or something. I don't know if it works any better or worse than what you got but it's worth a shot before you start ripping out floor boards.


Vim Fuego posted:

nice succulent collection!

There's a lot more of that in the Horticulture thread.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Jun 22, 2021

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