|
2007 Crown Victoria P71 (cop car). Manual HVAC. The blower only works on lo and the next setting up. Blower resistor? I figured the high setting would bypass it, but high acts just like the 2nd and 3rd settings. It's hot as hell here, it'd be nice to have the fan fully working. e: I just probed the blower motor connector w/motor connected - I get 3, 4, 5, and 6 volts, so it IS changing voltage with each setting... seems like the resistor is inline with ground though? One wire is +12V anytime the climate control is on. I don't have a beefy enough wire to try just grounding it directly. e2: Ford grounds the blower through the dash switch. Guess what was melted.  New switch was $15 at Advance, have a working fan again. I did find a broken ground strap between the body and block while troubleshooting though, so there's that..
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Jun 20, 2021 |
#
?
Jun 19, 2021 22:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 06:42 |
|
|
Alarbus posted:Pretty sure in 2016 Castrol was BMW's partner oil company. It's currently Pennzoil, but Pennzoil doesn't sell their LL-01 at retail. I've been using the Castrol 5W30 from Walmart in my N55. Cool, that's what I bought from Walmart. Also grabbed a Mann filter, which is what I used on my VW (because they were the OEM supplier). I really can't hold off much longer, I'm overdue as is on mileage and way over on time.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2021 23:18
|
|
|
STR posted:e2: Ford grounds the blower through the dash switch. Guess what was melted. Ah Ford, running high current through switches they shouldn't have since their humble beginnings. Relays be damned.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 12:14
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Stupid question! My dad has a 2019 Ford F-150 that doesn't have a CD player in it. It has Bluetooth but he doesn't own a Bluetooth device. Digital music, Spotify, etc., he "doesn't want to fool with it." (Stubborn old redneck.) I don't even know how to begin looking for a Bluetooth compatible CD player for his truck. I'm guessing this is some kind of aftermarket part that he can purchase and get installed somewhere? Must also be redneck-compatible.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 20:49
|
|
|
I brought my Drake posted:Stupid question! My dad has a 2019 Ford F-150 that doesn't have a CD player in it. It has Bluetooth but he doesn't own a Bluetooth device. Digital music, Spotify, etc., he "doesn't want to fool with it." (Stubborn old redneck.) I don't even know how to begin looking for a Bluetooth compatible CD player for his truck. I'm guessing this is some kind of aftermarket part that he can purchase and get installed somewhere? Must also be redneck-compatible. What trim model is the truck? Does it have Sync 3? Im not even sure if you can remove the factory sync unit from upper trim models without losing access to certain things. I know I couldnt replace the setup in my Expedition without losing access to a few things. What about ripping a bunch of his music to a thumb drive? It also looks like there are some usb CD players that might work. If its an STX or XLT without the large sync 3 screen it might be possible to do an aftermarket head unit. Im not sure though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 21:12
|
|
|
When it comes to wheel width... Let's say I moved from something 10 inches wide to something 9 inches wide... Would the wheels and tires end 1 inch before they used to on the outer side... Or would the missing 1 inch come off the inside of the wheel... Or is the missing inch split between the two ? I hope this makes sense... I'm trying to avoid a huge fender overhang when moving to a smaller set of wheels. Stock are 10 inch wide, what I'm looking at are 9 inches wide.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 22:39
|
|
|
Krime posted:When it comes to wheel width... Let's say I moved from something 10 inches wide to something 9 inches wide... Would the wheels and tires end 1 inch before they used to on the outer side... Or would the missing 1 inch come off the inside of the wheel... Or is the missing inch split between the two ? Look up wheel offset for the rims you like. Its the distance between mounting flange position and centreline of the wheel. If its the same offset as your 10 inch ones, youd loose half inch on each side.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2021 22:50
|
|
|
iv46vi posted:Look up wheel offset for the rims you like. It’s the distance between mounting flange position and centreline of the wheel. Ok, offset on the 20x9 I would like is 50mm Original 21x10s are 44. What's the outcome here? Losing more than a half an inch?
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 01:16
|
|
|
Krime posted:Ok, offset on the 20x9 I would like is 50mm Ii I remember right more positive offset means its more tucked in. 6mm is 1/4 inch, so compared to the original wheel you lose 1/4 on the inside and 3/4 on the outside. Here you can play with this to visualize changes https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.p...th=9&offset2=50 iv46vi fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jun 21, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 02:03
|
|
|
I brought my Drake posted:Stupid question! My dad has a 2019 Ford F-150 that doesn't have a CD player in it. It has Bluetooth but he doesn't own a Bluetooth device. Digital music, Spotify, etc., he "doesn't want to fool with it." (Stubborn old redneck.) I don't even know how to begin looking for a Bluetooth compatible CD player for his truck. I'm guessing this is some kind of aftermarket part that he can purchase and get installed somewhere? Must also be redneck-compatible. Does he have a smartphone? When you say no digital music does that mean, like, no iTunes in 2006 either? Because if he can run an iPod he can run a Spotify, you just gotta load it on his phone and make him use it. If theres a headphone jack-style Aux in port (theres gotta be an analog Aux in right?) then Id just be looking for a standard portable CD player that you can run off batteries and/or the cigarette lighter. Hell, get an old Discman off eBay or whatever if you cant/dont wanna find a decent one new. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jun 21, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 03:52
|
|
|
I brought my Drake posted:Stupid question! My dad has a 2019 Ford F-150 that doesn't have a CD player in it. It has Bluetooth but he doesn't own a Bluetooth device. Digital music, Spotify, etc., he "doesn't want to fool with it." (Stubborn old redneck.) I don't even know how to begin looking for a Bluetooth compatible CD player for his truck. I'm guessing this is some kind of aftermarket part that he can purchase and get installed somewhere? Must also be redneck-compatible. Amazon sells them. You're not going to get anything that will look OEM, so you'll have to kludge something up. USB is another option if the truck has it. Some infotainment systems will read USB drives, otherwise you can use it to power a device.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 03:59
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:Amazon sells them. You're not going to get anything that will look OEM, so you'll have to kludge something up. USB is another option if the truck has it. Some infotainment systems will read USB drives, otherwise you can use it to power a device. If it can read usb it can usually charge your phone/iPod/etc and read its audio. In the case of like, your dads phone/Spotify, hed still be using that but at least it wouldnt be Bluetooth. Plugging the phone/whatever in with USB cable is at least a big step reduced and idiot-proof.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 04:05
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Cool, that's what I bought from Walmart. Also grabbed a Mann filter, which is what I used on my VW (because they were the OEM supplier). Did the oil change, went great until I spilled my drain pan on the ground. The car has an electronic dip stick and I hate it, thanks. It only works with the car on level ground with the engine running and warmed up, just exactly what I want when I'm uncertain if I have the correct amount of oil in.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 17:58
|
|
|
Pretty sure it yells at you if it's wrong on startup, but who knows! I actually had the dealer do my last oil change, they had a sale and I needed an inspection. I think that's the first time in at least ten years I paid for an oil change on my car, let alone at the dealer. I did refuse the brake fluid change though, I already have the bleeder and it's not too bad. Also probably due for spark plugs too. I definitely credit my Dad for instilling certain processes, like checking for washers/gaskets/etc on removal so you know they don't double up.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 23:44
|
|
|
Everything is breaking. I'm starting to get clunking, popping, grinding sounds when sharp turning and coming off rocks/curbs, and I'm guessing this is a cv joint/sway bar/tie rod issue (or maybe ball joints as well)? The parts seem reasonably cheap (for the most part), is it worth replacing the other older-looking front-end components at once while I'm down there as a precautionary? Is this one of the 'If one is starting to go the others are likely going to follow' situations? It looks like they've all about the same age (~10+ years) and I'm working the vehicle harder than the last owner, so it seems anything that was on its last legs is getting pushed over the edge now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 23:45
|
|
|
Alarbus posted:Pretty sure it yells at you if it's wrong on startup, but who knows! Brake fluid is overdue. I have a pressure bleeder, so should just get it together, buy the right adapter, and just do it. I doubled up a washer on a drain plug on my old car. Ended up pulling the plug, pulling the washer, and slamming it back on ASAP, then refilling the oil that escaped. Learned that lesson!
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2021 23:50
|
|
|
Alarbus posted:
Uthor posted:
That is one of those things if you do it once, you'll never do it again moments.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2021 15:01
|
|
|
Help I dont know anything about tires! I need some new tires for my 2010 Xterra OFF ROAD EDITION. Its had BF Goodrich Rugged Trail TA tires on it its whole life and thats the OEM tire. Theyve been fine I guess but nowhere seems to have them at the moment, and at around 40-50K miles wet weather performance definitely drops fast. I go on muddy woods roads sometimes, but not like extreme mud off-roading or anything, and they did fine for that. Im on the gulf coast and it never ices or anything but we get ALOT of heavy rain- good wet weather on the interstate performance with okay off road capability is really my top priority. I dont want big loud mud tires or anything. One place I called looking for the Rugged Trail suggested a Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo 3, and google says they are fine but I always trust goons over google. E: just found the tire thread-sorry!
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2021 19:45
|
|
|
Im a fan of ko2s. Nice balance of everything terrain wise and pretty good on road, if you need knobbier mud tires you may want something more aggressive though
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2021 19:50
|
|
|
Is there any basis to the idea that putting DOT4 in a system that previously had DOT3 will damage the rubber parts? I don't know what is currently in my cars, they both state it's okay to use DOT3 or DOT4 in the manual.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2021 23:13
|
|
|
That's okay, just don't use DOT5 since it has an entirely different chemistry
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2021 23:16
|
|
|
Yeah, I heard 5 will gently caress up ABS systems.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 00:37
|
|
|
ethanol posted:I’m a fan of ko2s. Nice balance of everything terrain wise and pretty good on road Same, but you MUST white letters out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 00:51
|
|
|
DesperateDan posted:That coolant went somewhere, and maybe pissed all over a sensor which could possibly mess with the traction control light Thank you! I kept an eye on it while I waited for Monday to come, and it actually hasn't dropped any coolant since I added it. It might just have been dry because it is Arizona and was the first time I added coolant in 5 years (the dealer was supposed to be theoretically adding coolant when I brought it in for oil changes while it was under warranty but who knows if that happened). Maybe? It ended up being the crankshaft position sensor, which is a lot better than it could've been. The check engine code was for the starter which is around $200 and the sensor is much less, so I'm glad it wasn't that. I guess it was just a coincidence that it happened right after I added coolant. This isn't the first time I have had a post-coolant coincidence though in a car in my life, guess it's just my luck.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 00:56
|
|
|
n+1 on the KO2's. Half the trucks I see have them and I've never had any issues.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 01:03
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, I heard 5 will gently caress up ABS systems. Correct, but it would be bad for any system that has ever had DOT 3 or 4 in it at any point. Basically never use it unless it's factory specified  I don't know what uses 5.1.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 01:34
|
|
|
KakerMix posted:Same, but you MUST white letters out. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 01:50
|
|
|
I'm slowly losing brake fluid in my Tundra. I did the brakes about a year and a half ago but the brake pads still look really good, so I don't think it's gone down just from brake pad wear. I took the wheels off and I don't see any sign of brake fluid leaks. I'm thinking it's a bad master cylinder, is there anything I can do to confirm a bad MC before I start throwing parts at it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 01:56
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:I'm slowly losing brake fluid in my Tundra. I did the brakes about a year and a half ago but the brake pads still look really good, so I don't think it's gone down just from brake pad wear. I took the wheels off and I don't see any sign of brake fluid leaks. I'm thinking it's a bad master cylinder, is there anything I can do to confirm a bad MC before I start throwing parts at it? What makes you think it's a bad master? Can you see anything wet around it? Is the pedal sinking if you keep you foot on it for a while? There is one other symptom you can check, and that's if the rear seal went bad. It will eventually start dribbling, but it goes into the booster. You can unbolt it from that and pull ti slightly away to see if it's wet. But I'd not go there yet. Clean the hell out of everything and see where it leaks. Park on cardboard, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 02:47
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:I'm slowly losing brake fluid in my Tundra. I did the brakes about a year and a half ago but the brake pads still look really good, so I don't think it's gone down just from brake pad wear. I took the wheels off and I don't see any sign of brake fluid leaks. I'm thinking it's a bad master cylinder, is there anything I can do to confirm a bad MC before I start throwing parts at it? I agree that checking the seals makes the most sense. By the way, do you know what time it is?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 04:10
|
|
|
DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1 are all glycol based. Each is better (higher boiling point) than the one before it but also more expensive. You can run better than factory if you want. DOT5 is silicone. You can use it with some factory glycol based systems, but you need to look up the material all the seals and hoses are made from and verify this first, and the glycol fluid must be entirely flushed out. And it'll destroy systems it can't be used with, so the stakes are high. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jun 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 16:37
|
|
|
I think it's the MC because I started to investigate a mushy brake pedal on some Tundra specific forums and the general consensus seems to be a failing MC. That and the slowly decreasing amount of brake fluid in the reservoir leads me to believe that could be the culprit. I'll give everything a good cleaning and check the rear seal before ordering any parts. Thanks for the input guys. Also, I ended up buying one of those aftermarket TPMS things from amazon for the horse trailer, and so far it's been accurate enough and, more importantly, my wife likes to have the readout while driving.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 16:46
|
|
|
Is there a way to find NHTSA ratings for older cars (like 1990s)? I'm arguing with a friend about safety of old(er) trucks vs old(er) cars and while I know it's going to vary by vehicle he's insisting that the extra mass of a body-on-frame truck is more important than stuff like crumple zones. I was hoping to look up NHTSA ratings to cite. E: Apparently he didn't think cars had crumple zones in the '90s, which I'm 99% sure they did considering how hosed up my hood was on my Impreza from getting backed into at 5mph. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jun 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 18:04
|
|
|
I'm not sure if there's any sort of a collection of those ratings, but I can say with certainty that old BoF trucks are significantly less safe. More mass is irrelevant when small impacts still cause passenger intrusion, which is what happens when they aren't engineered to disperse energy in a specific way. Not to mention large, BoF trucks have higher centers of gravity, and are thus significantly more prone to the most dangerous types of accidents, roll-overs. Bigger=/= safer, vehicles have to be designed carefully and deliberately in order to be safer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 18:16
|
|
|
Yeah, he has an 80-series Land Cruiser and says he would rather get in a crash in it than in either of my Subarus ('99 Impreza and '94 SVX). He linked a small offset impact video for the SVX that looks nasty but if you look at it the steering column doesn't move, the body crumples away from the passenger compartment, and the part of the engine compartment it hits crumples like it should.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 18:19
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, he has an 80-series Land Cruiser and says he would rather get in a crash in it than in either of my Subarus ('99 Impreza and '94 SVX). He linked a small offset impact video for the SVX that looks nasty but if you look at it the steering column doesn't move, the body crumples away from the passenger compartment, and the part of the engine compartment it hits crumples like it should. I suspect that's one you'll have to let go. You're probably right, but there's not really anything you're going to be able to cite that he'll accept.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 18:29
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, he has an 80-series Land Cruiser and says he would rather get in a crash in it than in either of my Subarus ('99 Impreza and '94 SVX). He linked a small offset impact video for the SVX that looks nasty but if you look at it the steering column doesn't move, the body crumples away from the passenger compartment, and the part of the engine compartment it hits crumples like it should. https://www.iihs.org/ratings/vehicle/Ford/f-150-extended-cab-pickup/1997 https://www.iihs.org/ratings/vehicle/subaru/forester-4-door-suv/1999 They didn't seem to test the Impreza until 2002, which was a different generation.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 18:52
|
|
|
Cars definitely had crumple zones in the 90s. Mass is always relevant when two cars collide but if it's an either/or in terms of mass/crumple zones I'd take the crumple zones unless the mass differential is enormous.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 19:04
|
|
|
Charles posted:https://www.iihs.org/ratings/vehicle/Ford/f-150-extended-cab-pickup/1997 Keep in mind that the extended cab F-150 was basically the poster child for "holy poo poo this thing sucks in a crash" due to the relatively large cab with no B pillar. Also that this sort of crash testing simulates a crash between two vehicles of the same weight, if you actually crashed a 1999 Forester into a 1997 F-150 in this manner the Forester would do significantly worse and the F-150 would fare significantly better due to the ~30% weight difference.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 19:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 06:42 |
|
|
bird with big dick posted:Keep in mind that the extended cab F-150 was basically the poster child for "holy poo poo this thing sucks in a crash" due to the relatively large cab with no B pillar. Yeah. There's no IIHS Land Cruiser test ever but the 1996 4Runner gets "acceptable".
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2021 19:17
|
|