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Keisari posted:Has anyone brewed a great beer with only 2,8 % abv? May I recommend https://jesterkingbrewery.com/main-blog/le-petit-prince-homebrew-recipe You don't have to use any bottle dregs or bugs either, it's perfectly excellent with just some french saison yeast (that would make it akin to Thiriez's La Petite Princesse). High carb, tannins from plentiful hops, proteins from the wheat and a high glycerol producing yeast like 3711 combine to make a beer that is not thin.
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Jun 24, 2021 12:11
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thotsky posted:May I recommend https://jesterkingbrewery.com/main-blog/le-petit-prince-homebrew-recipe Bookmarked, cheers! If anyone has any non-wheat beers, I'd be glad to hear them too! EDIT: What do you think about rye instead of wheat? Not in this recipe, but in general? IIRC rye bleeds something into the beer that makes it more viscous -> decreases watery mouthfeel
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Jun 24, 2021 12:24
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Keisari posted:What do you think about rye instead of wheat? Not in this recipe, but in general? IIRC rye bleeds something into the beer that makes it more viscous -> decreases watery mouthfeel Anecdotally, I made a rye beer once that definitely had too much rye in it (65%, as I recall) - it had a downright oleaginous mouthfeel. So yes, I'd agree that something in the rye builds body. You might also look at oats. Both rye and oats are available malted, too, so you don't have to worry about conversion. You may need to add rice hulls if you use a significant dose of rye.
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Jun 24, 2021 15:38
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Jo3sh posted:Anecdotally, I made a rye beer once that definitely had too much rye in it (65%, as I recall) - it had a downright oleaginous mouthfeel. So yes, I'd agree that something in the rye builds body. You might also look at oats. Both rye and oats are available malted, too, so you don't have to worry about conversion. You may need to add rice hulls if you use a significant dose of rye. I've started tossing .5-1lb of hulls into all my brews it makes stuff "slide around" so much better it's worth the $2 per lb it costs.
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Jun 24, 2021 15:56
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Rye does not quite have the protein content of wheat, but it has a higher beta glucan content, both of these contribute to body, but in perceptually different ways. Protein seems to add a fluffy and chewy quality to beers, whereas beta glucans contribute a smooth and soft quality. Rye has a little of both, leaning towards the latter but not as much as oats. I belive beta glucans counteract the perception of "dryness" more than proteins, which can be positive or negative depending on your taste. I doubt any beer at these gravities will read as particularly sweet. In large amounts the flavor contribution of rye is not all that positive to my palate, but for something like the recipe I shared earlier you'll be alright. thotsky fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 16:07
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Keisari posted:Bookmarked, cheers! If anyone has any non-wheat beers, I'd be glad to hear them too! You could just swap malted rye for the wheat in le petit prince recipe and it would work just fine for what you want. I've made a saison with 3711/French Saison yeast with 20% rye and 70% pilsner 10% dark candi syrup many times over the years and it's great. I'd skip the syrup for a small table beer and go with the 80/20 pils/rye for it instead. The glucose from the yeast choice is important for it not feeling thin, so go with that yeast and you should have success. Plenty of hops like trotsky mentioned is also a great help. Use rice hulls if you're not doing BIAB, rye gets sticky.
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Jun 24, 2021 16:08
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Circumcised Elon posted:If anyone is still using Kveik yeast (you should, its excellent) can I recommend trying out pairing it with Talus hops? Interesting, I make a Hendrick's inspired saison with cucumbers. If I can get a rose flavor from hops, might have add some to the next time I make it.
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Jun 24, 2021 18:06
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Keisari posted:Has anyone brewed a great beer with only 2,8 % abv? Make a berliner weisse, they're great. I made the northern brewer kinderweisse before and it was probably the best kit beer ive ever made.
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Jun 24, 2021 18:14
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Keisari posted:Bookmarked, cheers! If anyone has any non-wheat beers, I'd be glad to hear them too! There's a post on the Reddit home-brewing sub about an overnight cold mashing process that produces sub 2.5% beers with good flavour, without the watery mouthfeel that most low abv beers suffer from.
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Jun 24, 2021 21:18
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Keisari posted:Has anyone brewed a great beer with only 2,8 % abv? Small Beer Co and Near Beer, both here in London do beers under 2.8%, and at 1.0% respectively. They're both very decent.
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Jun 25, 2021 12:32
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Jhet posted:Oh good to know. Talus is HBC692, a daughter of Sabro HBC438. It’s very awesome. I didn’t know that’s what they named it. Actually been drinking a few Sabro only Pilsners the last week, its good. Last Kveik purchase was WLP4045 Sigmunds Voss Kveik, and Ive use the slurry for 3 subsequent fermentations. Still good and usually in the higher temp ranges just because of the season I used it. I used another previous and cant remember the name now, Imperial brand maybe? The White Labs was by far the best tho. The Sigmunds Voss (at temps around 28ish Celcius but during its very short few days fermenation it takes itself into the high 30's) has a great earthy ashy soil character Kveik sometimes has, and a big almost straight lemon juice thing. I just thought hell yes that would work well with the Talus Oh, I used Fuggles and East Kent Golding hops, which dont do any of that. Circumcised Elon fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 13:01
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Is there much difference between Briess or Muntons dry malt extract? I think I’ve only ever used Briess, but I recently got a bag of Muntons and it seemed more malty than I remember other malt extract I’ve used. But maybe I’m just paying more attention to it. I brewed up another saison on Monday, I was able to knock it out in about 3 hours after work. It seems to be fermenting out quicker this time, which is maybe just the slightly hotter temperature I’m fermenting it at. Or one of the other many variables I changed between the different batches.
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Jun 25, 2021 16:42
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Yeah. The malt you start with makes a difference. Muntons being an English malt starts maltier if that makes sense. Briess is grown in the US and Canada, and are by selection less malty (thank the big macro brewers for that). Temp for saison yeast definitely matters. When I can keep them high 70s to low 80s they chew through the bulk quickly. That’s where they do good work and you get great flavor expression. My favorite right now is Loral with a Blaugies strain. My next one I want to blend it with Pekko as well to see how much floral I can pump into it.
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Jun 25, 2021 17:51
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Different Saison strains do different work at different temperatures, but all of them should work. It depends on what you're looking for. I also enjoy Blaugies at a hot, but not crazy, 80F/27C, but some big-name breweries don't think fermenting hot is a good idea. Sante Adairius swears by using the Dupont strain at 68F/20C and to just give it time.
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Jun 25, 2021 18:45
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Yeah, that would be nice, but anytime I do cool with the DuPont strain it takes forever and I get very little expression. It still tasted good, but at homebrew size I’m only doing that if it’s winter and that’s my ambient temp anymore. I prefer 3711 in the winter, but that’s just down to circumstance and still being able to drink it relatively quickly. I’d rather just brew with others in the summer and then leave it to condition for the winter drinking.
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Jun 25, 2021 18:57
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Hooray, a question for everyone from an all guts no brains beginner: I've got a Brewtools B40Pro, a desire to make beer at non-insane prices, and a mass of confusion around what to do about sparging. In doing a final "Ok, do I vaguely know what I'm doing?" check before starting on my first brew(allgrain! see above, all guts, no brains), I checked Youtube and noticed that most of the "ok here's the overview" type videos include *fully kitted* setups(steamhat, condensor, wild amounts of TC piping) including some form of either sparge heater or water storage. I do not have either of those. But in reading less about the system, and more about the high-level of allgrain brewing, there's plenty of folks noting all you *really* need are an MLT and a kettle - which pretty much defines the brewtools unit. So I'm confused: In doing an allgrain brew with an AIO unit like this, is there some way to sparge without an external heated water source, or some way to just do a no-sparge brew easily enough?
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Jun 26, 2021 19:39
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You should be able to do no-sparge batches up to 5-6 gallons with that setup. You can also heat sparge water separately, heat it up in the kettle first and keep it in a cooler during your mash, or do a cold sparge. I have a somewhat similar 80qt system, and I just do full volume mashes with no sparge. If that's what you do, you probably want to spend a little time learning about water chemistry. You're more likely to need to adjust your water to get a proper mash pH when you're using something like twice the amount of water in your mash.
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Jun 26, 2021 19:55
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more falafel please posted:You should be able to do no-sparge batches up to 5-6 gallons with that setup. I don't happen to have a cooler to store hot water in, nor do I have a high-quantity of pots-and-the-like to boil individually and hold-at-temp. At the point that such is necessary, I'll just go ahead and order a separate proper sparge water heater, I was just half-hoping that I could still get brewing in tomorrow without such. In looking into the idea of cold-sparging, which I hadn't heard of until you mentioned it - I can likely get a large enough room-temperature water stored in a larger pot or similar to cold-sparge: Does the pump on an AIO have enough go to pull from such an arrangement, without pressure on the source side? As an alternate note to that: I'm curious - with a no-sparge plan, and an AIO system, it'd be looking at just putting more water in for mashing (1.5-2x I think I've seen?) and having that water recirculate for the sparging? Conceptually, I think I just get curious: is it correct that this approach ends up simply circulating, well, the wort through the grain bed repeatedly, until you switch over to cool-and-send to fermentation vessel? Thinking outloud: I don't think I've seen anything about draining water post-mashing, so I guess the only difference is whether you have that 'extra' water up front, or only after mashing, but you mostly end up with the same volume in both cases? Is that more or less correct?
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Jun 26, 2021 20:14
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I’d worry about a stuck mash with cold sparging. Anything with wheat, rye, or oats will turn into a disc of cold oatmeal. For a big one vessel system like that I’d just no sparge and use as much or all of the boil volume+absorption as I’d need for the boil. For most things that don’t use the full grain mass, this will be the least difficult and you can adjust water with 88% lactic acid easily. No sparge/full volume mash will be easy and great for probably 90% or the beer a person brews, it’ll just be more difficult when you try to do a 10-12% stout or something and stick 18-20lbs of grain in it. Granted, when I’ve done that in my 10.5 gallon pots the sparge volume is maybe a gallon or so anyway and there’s been volume left for adding liquid. So you might be able to use that anyway.
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Jun 26, 2021 20:52
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Yep, been down the rabbithole on sparging all night to prepare to get things rolling tomorrow, and realizing I can just do some math, heat some extra water, and no-sparge it - so that I can still get some actual experience in without stressing more equipment at this time. Now just to sort out how best to handle flow to/from the counterflow cooler and remember what all the valves do  Thanks folks!
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Jun 26, 2021 21:40
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Gonna try brewing a helles as my first attempt at a lager, does this look decent for grain bill/hops? OG 1.058, FG1.011 4.4 kg (89.8%) — Gladfield German Pilsner Malt — Grain — 4 EBC 300 g (6.1%) — Gladfield Munich Malt — Grain — 15 EBC 200 g (4.1%) — Gladfield Acidulated Malt — Grain — 4 EBC Hops (56 g) 29IBU 28 g (24 IBU) — Wakatu (Hallertau Aroma) 7.5% Bittering addition 28 g (5 IBU) — Pacific Hallertau (aka Pacifica) 5.5% hopstand S-23 yeast Will ferment under pressure, but haven't quite worked out a fermentation schedule yet.
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Jun 26, 2021 22:18
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El Pollo Blanco posted:Gonna try brewing a helles as my first attempt at a lager, does this look decent for grain bill/hops? That looks groovy. Do you have temp control to keep S23 in the low 50s though?
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Jun 26, 2021 22:46
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Jhet posted:That looks groovy. Do you have temp control to keep S23 in the low 50s though? Yep, got a fermentation fridge, and will try fermenting under pressure with a spunding valve. Cheers
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Jun 26, 2021 23:17
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El Pollo Blanco posted:Gonna try brewing a helles as my first attempt at a lager, does this look decent for grain bill/hops? OG pretty high for a helles (most are around 1.048), but strong helles do exist. Your IBUs have definitely moved into Pilsner territory though. You're going to want to be around 20, with almost no aroma hops to speak of. Some move the aroma addition to like 45 - 25 min instead for some subtle hoppy character.
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Jun 27, 2021 00:12
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El Pollo Blanco posted:Yep, got a fermentation fridge, and will try fermenting under pressure with a spunding valve. Cheers This was 24 hours after pitch - it's a Mexican lager with the mangrove Jack Bavarian lager yeast. I set it up 10psi and the spunding valve keeps it there. The basement is 65° 
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Jun 27, 2021 00:32
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thotsky posted:OG pretty high for a helles (most are around 1.048), but strong helles do exist. Your IBUs have definitely moved into Pilsner territory though. You're going to want to be around 20, with almost no aroma hops to speak of. Some move the aroma addition to like 45 - 25 min instead for some subtle hoppy character. Sounds like I might have created a pilsner recipe instead then, might go with that then and try a more restrained OG and hop schedule for a helles next time I brew.
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Jun 27, 2021 03:00
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Those who have been in the thread for a while might distantly remember I did some surveying on brew-on-premises for a thesis I was writing. Well - it's.... somewhat moved on from there. I'm launching a place in London for homebrewers (and total beginners as well) to get together, and use pro-quality kit without having to buy, maintain or store it! I know that a few of these places exist in the US and Canada - if anyone has used one, what are a few 'quality of life' improvements you'd like to see at yours? We'll be looking after all of the cleaning of kit, supply of ingredients etc., but are there any 'less obvious' things that you either see where you currently brew, or would like it?
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Jun 28, 2021 12:58
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Red Oktober posted:Those who have been in the thread for a while might distantly remember I did some surveying on brew-on-premises for a thesis I was writing. That's fuckin awesome. I'd pay someone to use their poo poo especially if I don't have to clean it. 
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Jun 28, 2021 13:12
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tater_salad posted:That's fuckin awesome. I'd pay someone to use their poo poo especially if I don't have to clean it. You mean you didn’t start brewing to spend an inordinate amount of time cleaning?
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Jun 28, 2021 13:21
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Summer time outside brewing helps. The digiboil gets an initial clean with the hose, the mash basket gets a clean with the hose .. everyone gets a spray with the hose. Then the next day I'll actually scrub the poo poo out of it. Edit: vvvvv: Again that space makes a TON of sense in London, in my suburbia American area not so much. I have a basement with a full 6ft by 3ft shelf full of my brewing poo poo and it impacts my living space zero amount. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Jun 28, 2021 |
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Jun 28, 2021 13:55
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*Looks around his fifth floor, two bed apartment* I really need to move somewhere with outdoor space.
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Jun 28, 2021 13:57
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So my Rice Wine time is done for the moment, I still have another yeast/enzyme blend to buy and try. It also need to clear up a little more, but for about 400g uncooked to 1 gallon-ish cooked, I've gotten about 1L. It smells a little hot, but it may just need some time in the fridge. Rice is the hardest thing to clear out and there's so much waste liquid every time. I could really use a fruit press lined with cheesecloth to lower waste. This yeast ball always tastes a little like blueberries, so that's not a bad thing. I also made some grape vinegar from some preserves of unidentified grapes from my old place. It tastes wonderful and fruity.  
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Jul 1, 2021 23:54
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Well, a beer I kegged two weeks ago has apparently been flat this entire time in the kegerator. There must be a leak in the keg somewhere because the CO2 tank is now empty, so I guess I’ve had a cold keg of flat beer for about two weeks. If I get everything fixed up and on CO2 tomorrow, what are the chances the beer still tastes decent?
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Jul 2, 2021 04:36
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illcendiary posted:Well, a beer I kegged two weeks ago has apparently been flat this entire time in the kegerator. There must be a leak in the keg somewhere because the CO2 tank is now empty, so I guess I’ve had a cold keg of flat beer for about two weeks. If I get everything fixed up and on CO2 tomorrow, what are the chances the beer still tastes decent? If you had the lid on and the CO2 went in and sealed the lid alright, they okay. Really depends on where the leak was and how much oxygen went into the keg between then and now.
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Jul 2, 2021 05:05
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My guess is that the leak is somewhere in the keg, because I pressurized the keg/purged it of oxygen when kegging. So it’s possible that it slowly leaked out *through* the keg, which I guess would be the best-case scenario.
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Jul 2, 2021 05:21
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Jhet posted:So my Rice Wine time is done for the moment, I still have another yeast/enzyme blend to buy and try. It also need to clear up a little more, but for about 400g uncooked to 1 gallon-ish cooked, I've gotten about 1L. It smells a little hot, but it may just need some time in the fridge. Rice is the hardest thing to clear out and there's so much waste liquid every time. I could really use a fruit press lined with cheesecloth to lower waste. This yeast ball always tastes a little like blueberries, so that's not a bad thing. That's really cool.
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Jul 2, 2021 07:15
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How accurate are the markings inside of kettles usually? I just weighed out 10 liters of water (so 10,000 g using my scale), but it's definitely at like 10.5 L in my kettle.
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Jul 3, 2021 16:28
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Eeyo posted:How accurate are the markings inside of kettles usually? I just weighed out 10 liters of water (so 10,000 g using my scale), but it's definitely at like 10.5 L in my kettle. Kettles don't have to be accurate, they are not typically used used for measuring liquids. My guess is your scale is more correct.
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Jul 3, 2021 16:32
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I harvested about a pound of whitecurrants which isn't enough to make wine but I still want to use them. I've got raspberries, strawberries and if I freeze them and wait a bit blueberries, anyone made any wine with whitecurrants and have opinions about what they'd combo with? E: failing that any ideas what to make a half-sized batch of wine in? I've only got normal 5l demijohns.
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Jul 5, 2021 09:21
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cakesmith handyman posted:E: failing that any ideas what to make a half-sized batch of wine in? I've only got normal 5l demijohns. I got a pack of 10 cheap airlocks on Amazon for 2L bottles, but you could easily just screw on the cap semi-loose and do it redneck style: 
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Jul 5, 2021 14:20
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