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Scandalous posted:almost there with my first actual full squad My personal, perhaps unwanted opinion is to put a black border on the base if you don't add any more detail to it. Like, on the edge, would make it pop, I think.
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Jun 24, 2021 13:59
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GreenBuckanneer posted:My personal, perhaps unwanted opinion is to put a black border on the base if you don't add any more detail to it. Like, on the edge, would make it pop, I think.
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Jun 24, 2021 14:03
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Black rims every day all day.
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Jun 24, 2021 15:39
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PoptartsNinja posted:Quick MS Paint mockups:  I've painted quite a few miniatures for armies over the years but I've never really thought much about trying to improve my technique. I think now I'm older with less time for gaming I'll buy miniatures just to try and learn some new skills like wet blending and push myself to paint better.
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Jun 24, 2021 16:22
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Hell yeah that looks way more cool.
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Jun 24, 2021 16:27
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oh drat your shield is all of a sudden the sickest part of the whole paintjob, amazing work E: Spanish Manlove posted:Black rims every day all day. 
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Jun 24, 2021 16:30
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Psyber Spine posted:Thanks for the tips! Planning in paint is such a good idea, I hope you don't mind that I used your design. I started painting the cloak and loincloth(?) blue and I feel like it's made the head more of a focal point already. My painting isn't great but the model looks much better than it did. this is awesome! your painting is in fact good.
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Jun 24, 2021 16:58
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loving nailed it, great work.
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Jun 24, 2021 17:08
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TheDiceMustRoll posted:I got a Warpfire thrower and a Ratling Gun and these are my first metal minatures. Do I need to cut off the metal bits these rat-lads are using? There's no slot in the bases provided I'm assuming you are talking about the... Tab thing at their feet which would go in the slot, right? Feels like theres probably a technical name for that but I dont know it. Your basic choices are pick up some appropriately sized slotta bases and put them in the slot (its worth mentioning there are plenty of models out there which dont look great if you do that due to their posing vs where the slot on the base is, or where the tab is actually physically longer than the slot, and a lot more where you then have to fill a gap in the base as the tab is much shorter than the slot. I've also had a few figures where the tab is much taller than the slot is deep which isnt ideal either), or cut it off and just glue/pin the model to a regular base. There are a million and one people selling off-brand bases in whatever size and shape you want on ebay, with and without slots. In case it wasnt obvious, I tend to lean towards the "snip it off and glue the model to a non-slot base" method myself where practical. There are models where its flat out easier/better to keep them on a tab with the tab glued in a slot because their contact point with a base otherwise will be tiny, but as a general rule I cut it off (usually with my slightly worn out side cutters which have been relegated to this and cutting paperclips for pinning, sometimes by repeated scoring with a knife) then I give the underside of the feet where it was connected to the figure a quick file and glue it/pin it (depending on the specific figure) to a base. lilljonas posted:Honestly, a lot of the time you can get away with the philosphy that if you can't reach it, it'll look ok if you don't paint it. Often just stabbing a bit of wash towards the general direction of the unreachable parts, to give them a hint of shadows, will work decently. If the hard to reach parts are left dark and kind of featureless, but you bring out the details of the other parts with bold colours and highlights and such, I doubt you'd notice them too much unless you prime your models stark white. IF you use a white primer, try to stab som more muted colours in there and some wash, just to darken the area a bit. Agree with all this. Plus it doesnt sound like the models are really ruined at all! I've had more than my share of model building nightmares. My first advice is put them down and walk away for a bit. On a shelf, in a box whatever. If you feel like tossing them in the bin* then you arent in a good frame of mind for assessing them at all. I mean, absolute WORST case if you had ruined them, you could get some of the value back on ebay and rebuy new ones, or take them apart for bits or snip the cables off and have them skaven experimental wireless stormfiends (or cut lengths of plastic tubing/actual insulated wire to fit and make new cables). But from the sounds of it, they arent so much actually ruined as just become a bit of a bastard to paint. If possible put them back in the pile of shame, paint something else entirely, then circle back round when the frustration is less fresh. I'm not particularly familiar with GWs current model line, so I'm going off a google image search, but it looks like the cables are mainly blocking skin or armour, right? Just slap your skin or armour base coat over that whole area, make sure when you wash it you get plenty of wash in there, then after you are done with the torso paint the cables back to white (or whatever) and paint them like you hadnt just had them skin coloured a minute ago. If you cant reach a bit of cable its honestly not that big a deal, in real life no-one but you will ever be looking at it closely enough to notice "If you pick it up and look from underneath you can see that some of the skin is just basecoat and wash and that the bit of the cable next to his back isnt actually painted". If you cant see it at arms length it might as well not exist for tabletop purposes. Anyway, to answer the original question "what do you do with a ruined model" my answer would be "Either ebay pile, scavange it for bits, or put it on a plinth and paint it up as a broken statue", but thats for things where there are insurmountable issues. *And believe me, I have been there.
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Jun 24, 2021 17:28
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so I can't just stick them in.
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Psyber Spine posted:I hope you don't mind that I used your design. Not at all, that's why I posted it! I'm glad you were able to make use of it!
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Jun 24, 2021 17:51
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drat that mini looks really good now with the updated shield.
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Jun 24, 2021 17:52
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jesus WEP posted:
I'mma let you finish, but the correct base rim color is early 2000s citadel graveyard earth or reaper msp earth brown
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Jun 24, 2021 17:53
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I prefer when base rims are closer to the color of the basing job, so either black and dark grey or an earth color can work well. If the base and base rim contrast too much I think it draws the eye away from the model, especially at tabletop distance.
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Jun 24, 2021 18:00
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When I was writing that dumb poo poo post about black rims I thought "what if that black would contrast with something on the model or base?" And went ehhhhhh Do what you want to do, there's no right or wrong way to paint. Except with hyper thick globby paint that clogs details. That's really it. That's the one no no. You can use thick paint, just don't clog details with it. Unless you're using it on purpose to fill in a gap. Or to look like literal poo poo. Ok so yeah paint how you want. Be creative.
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Jun 24, 2021 18:36
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I really like German Grey/Corvus Black myself, but there's definitely a case to be made for a rim color that matches the base.
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Jun 24, 2021 18:38
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I go back and forth, but since I discovered paint markers I've been much more onto black rims than off.
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Jun 24, 2021 19:00
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Finished up my Royal Warden. I’m aiming to make my characters as colourful as reasonably possible so they really stand out amongst the hordes of skellymans.  It’s a bit outside the scope of this thread but I’ve been having a play with one of those apps that uses machine learning to make photos look like artwork, and I’ve been having a lot of fun playing around with images of my models.   
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Jun 24, 2021 19:35
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Lord Ludikrous posted:It’s a bit outside the scope of this thread but I’ve been having a play with one of those apps that uses machine learning to make photos look like artwork, and I’ve been having a lot of fun playing around with images of my models. I clicked on these before i had read your post and it broke my brain for second O_0 It looks really cool!
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Jun 24, 2021 19:47
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SiKboy posted:I'm assuming you are talking about the... Tab thing at their feet which would go in the slot, right? Feels like theres probably a technical name for that but I dont know it. The tabs connected to the feet are just called tabs. However, the bases that those tabs fit into were once called "Slottabases". E: Lord Ludikrous posted:I’ve been having a play with one of those apps that uses machine learning to make photos look like artwork Which app is this? Two Beans fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 20:08
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I'm not happy with the scheme I went with for my Cursed City Vargskyr and I want to strip him down. I now live in the UK and haven't had to strip anything since I got back into the hobby, and after some reading I've discovered that Fairy Power Spray (UK equivalent of Dawn Power Dissolver) works really well. I've also read, however, that at some point the manufacturer changed the formula and that the new formula doesn't strip as well any more. Has anyone had experience recently stripping minis with Fairy Power Spray? Is it still worth using, or should I just stick with LA's Totally Awesome?
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Jun 24, 2021 20:18
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Few questions: Was reading something on tiktok about using Rustoleum "magnetic primer" and was wondering if anyone had tried that? I want to go the magnet route and have some boxes but I hear people complain about the strength and wondered if there's a defacto "use 5mm magnets and sheet metal" or something method for protecting, I got some satin and matte spray, but someone was saying to do gloss and then apply matte over it?
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Jun 24, 2021 21:14
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What are you trying to magnetize? Weapon options or like putting them on a carrying tray?
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Jun 24, 2021 21:19
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Spanish Manlove posted:What are you trying to magnetize? Weapon options or like putting them on a carrying tray? Tray, not really at the point to do weapons
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Jun 24, 2021 21:29
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Tray, not really at the point to do weapons 5x2mm and a metal baking tray, ez. Add more magnets for bigger models.
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Jun 24, 2021 21:43
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Yeah, agree with Spanish Manlove. I use 6mm x 2mm neodymium magnets (grade n42 or higher) and they stick really strongly to actual metal, much less so to various other forms that people use, such as magnetic sheets, ferro sheets (slightly better) and whatnot. That is, I’ve found magnetic sheets - like the ones Duncan uses in his video - to work sorta okay for storage, but definitely not strong enough for transport. I used the actual links Duncan has in his video, and I didn’t feel it worked super great. However, using sheet metal, and things like baking trays and cookie tins, work amazingly. Deep ones with lids are best for baking trays. I use regular locktite superglue to glue the 6mm x 2mm magnets to the bottom of the bases, 1 for 32mm and smaller, two for bigger models, three for big resin models (like my leviathan) and they hold the models very strongly. Someone suggested using hot glue for the magnets, which is probably better and you can get them flush with the edge of the base. I haven’t needed to with the magnets I use them, they stick just fine. I can comfortably jog 3 km to my friends place with a bag full of magnetized models in baking trays without worrying about them being destroyed. Sheet metal is pretty gnarly to work with, cuts and metal splinters if you’re not careful. I’ve heard that in the US you can find cheap metal roof shingles at hardware stores, that are perfect for hot gluing into a box, but we don’t have them around here.
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Jun 24, 2021 22:04
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An unintended bonus for using baking trays as transports is that you can use the empty tray to roll dice in when you're playing.
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Jun 24, 2021 22:15
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I already got some shoeboxes to stick these guys in, so I was hoping to do the sheet metal route
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Jun 24, 2021 22:19
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After practicing on about 15ish intercessors to varying levels of quality I decided to tackle my first “character” model ever: I am fairly happy with how the Lieutenant turned out. The sword is still a WIP as I wait for paints as I wanted to copy Duncans advanced powersword method. Also this might be heresy but I think I like the drybrushed “fuzzy” look of the models before it got shaded with a watered down blue drakenhof mixture. Also not sure about these bases I spent a few days printing for my whole army  I can just stick the models in a freezer to break the superglue right?
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Jun 25, 2021 00:11
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I'm painting an armoured female paladin mini (Wizkids Female Elf Paladin if anyone wants to search it) and I'm pretty happy with how it's coming out so far. I'm aiming for different shades of blue with gold trim as the colour theme and a splash of red here and there as accents. My issue is that the chest of the mini has these two weird circles as part of the armour which would be right over the breasts. They're not protruding or anything like traditional (terrible) boob armour, but the way they're setup, I'm worried that using the gold trim will make them stand out too much. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to still get the definition of the armour plates without shouting "HEY LOOK AT THESE BOOB CIRCLES ON THE MINI". Here's a really terrible picture for ref (sorry, had to use my laptop camera) 
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Jun 25, 2021 00:17
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MeinPanzer posted:I'm not happy with the scheme I went with for my Cursed City Vargskyr and I want to strip him down. I now live in the UK and haven't had to strip anything since I got back into the hobby, and after some reading I've discovered that Fairy Power Spray (UK equivalent of Dawn Power Dissolver) works really well. I've also read, however, that at some point the manufacturer changed the formula and that the new formula doesn't strip as well any more.
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Jun 25, 2021 01:15
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I kitbashed an exorcist for The Killmore Girls    
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Jun 25, 2021 02:10
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Can anyone recommend for this WIP heavy Intercessor: A: a good way to highlight a white object like a bolter?  B: a good way to get white applied without leaving lines? I used about 3-4 coats of thin Ulthuan Grey to cover up the Macragge blue but I might need to thin the grey even more. Thanks!
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Jun 25, 2021 03:56
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TheDiceMustRoll posted:I got a Warpfire thrower and a Ratling Gun and these are my first metal minatures. Do I need to cut off the metal bits these rat-lads are using? There's no slot in the bases provided You can cut the tab off and super glue them straight to the base. But for the best hold I’d recommend using a piece of paper clip to make a pin. Drill hole in foot/feet and drill holes in base. Then superglue.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:58
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BIG DRYWALL MAN posted:Can anyone recommend for this WIP heavy Intercessor: Celestra Grey is a really good base for white, covers very well for a light grey. Ulthuan doesn't cover that well on its own. Celestra Grey base -> Ulthuan Grey layer -> White highlight works for a cold white look
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Jun 25, 2021 05:56
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Started on Cursed City last Wednesday and this is my progress so far (minus the not-pictured other 9 skeletons who are all about 70% done). Contrast paints are a lot of fun and so is working on something that I feel like I can take a little less seriously than my super-grim Deathwatch:  
Captain Magic fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 06:34
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Winklebottom posted:Celestra Grey is a really good base for white, covers very well for a light grey. Ulthuan doesn't cover that well on its own. Seer Grey also works really well for this.
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Jun 25, 2021 07:05
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Silhouette posted:I'mma let you finish, but the correct base rim color is early 2000s citadel graveyard earth or reaper msp earth brown I’m painting old school greenskins and fighting the urge to paint goblin green base rims. Pray for me, brothers
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Jun 25, 2021 07:12
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lilljonas posted:I’m painting old school greenskins and fighting the urge to paint goblin green base rims. just do it. feels good, imo
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Jun 25, 2021 08:53
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lilljonas posted:I’m painting old school greenskins and fighting the urge to paint goblin green base rims. Some people say black is the only true base rim colour. Those people are idiots, goblin green is the way.
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Jun 25, 2021 10:33
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Winklebottom posted:Celestra Grey is a really good base for white, covers very well for a light grey. Ulthuan doesn't cover that well on its own. Lord Ludikrous posted:Seer Grey also works really well for this. Awesome, thanks!
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Jun 25, 2021 12:43
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