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Rexxed posted:My dad leaves his MX Master plugged in most of the time. One weird trick only 80 year olds know! Does it work wired only or does it still connect wirelessly when plugged in?
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Jun 13, 2021 19:19
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Interesting new data from BattleNonsense. Makes me want to shift from 800 to 1600 DPI. If you want to do this and keep your desktop cursor speed, keep in mind that the satanic minds at Microsoft are still using an incredibly hosed up sensitivity system. The 50% desktop sensitivity setting is actually setting 6/20, which corresponds to the old 4/11 setting - but only as long as you have Enhance Pointer Precision off (the windows mouse acceleration setting). It's absolutely insane that windows sensitivity is still a complete mess based on decisions made at least 27 years ago. K8.0 fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 19:59
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Rakeris posted:Does it work wired only or does it still connect wirelessly when plugged in? It still connects wirelessly.
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Jun 13, 2021 20:15
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any recommendations for a no thrills wireless mouse for portable/couch use, that's also cheap? just something decent.
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Jun 20, 2021 03:10
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lol 
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Jun 20, 2021 07:16
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Rinkles posted:lol Looks like they surpassed us a long time ago.
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Jun 20, 2021 07:48
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What is a good value-for-$ wireless mouse for games?
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Jun 20, 2021 13:39
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Logitech G305, until the switches fail. They can be had for $40, I think even $35 sometimes. After that there's kind of a large value gap until you're looking at stuff like the Razer Viper Ultimate or the Steelseries Prime Wireless for their optical switches, and those are around $130. There are lots of mice priced in between, but AFAIK none of them combine good wireless + optical switches and thus they can't really be justified as a "value wireless" in my book since they won't last for poo poo. At least the G305 is cheap and has very good performance + solid ergonomics.
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Jun 20, 2021 13:57
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There's also the Corsair Katar Pro as a G305 alternative; I think people find it to be generally more reliable than it as well (probably because it uses Kailh instead of Omron switches). Just isn't discussed as often I feel because for so long Corsair had been an absolute joke when it came to mice. The sensor in it is technically worse but I'd assume most goons would prefer longevity over a super competitive edge in FPS games. There's also the Steelseries Rival 3 Wireless that has fine wireless technology too and uses their own rebranded Zippy switches IIRC, and I imagine anyone uses their mechanical switches better than Logitech, even if none of them will match an optical switch. Both of them have Bluetooth too, in case that is a particular feature someone really needs that the G305 doesn't offer.
demostars fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Jun 22, 2021 |
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Jun 22, 2021 07:56
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My 7 year-old Logitech G502 was dying so I went on Amazon to buy another one, and I was happy to see they make a wireless version of that same mouse so I ordered that as well as the Powerplay induction charging pad for it. Not cheap but what a game changer.
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Jun 23, 2021 01:06
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Nfcknblvbl posted:My 7 year-old Logitech G502 was dying so I went on Amazon to buy another one, and I was happy to see they make a wireless version of that same mouse so I ordered that as well as the Powerplay induction charging pad for it. Not cheap but what a game changer.
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Jun 23, 2021 01:23
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The problem is that the mat is way too drat small to be useful. I use a 4x2' mouse pad. Can't imagine ever going back to something where the edge is something I can conceptually reach.
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Jun 23, 2021 04:10
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Can see that for the super low dpi users but I’m at about average so it hasn’t been a problem for me.
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Jun 23, 2021 04:19
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Mouse pad ranking. Skypad (I think it's better but I'm not sure I've played anything all that demanding on it)/Steelseries SX Everything else is slow garbage what kind of idiot moron uses plastic/cloth. Duck and Cover fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jun 23, 2021 |
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Jun 23, 2021 07:09
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K8.0 posted:The problem is that the mat is way too drat small to be useful. I use a 4x2' mouse pad. Can't imagine ever going back to something where the edge is something I can conceptually reach. Agree. I’ve used the Powerplay setup since very soon after it was released with a 903 and later with the G Pro Wireless. The size is definitely a limitation to the setup. It is a really slick setup all said.
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Jun 23, 2021 15:25
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Is replacing the USB plug on a mouse relatively simple? My old G400 still works well except when it disconnects if the cable's at an angle it doesn't like.
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Jun 23, 2021 17:43
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Rinkles posted:Is replacing the USB plug on a mouse relatively simple? My old G400 still works well except when it disconnects if the cable's at an angle it doesn't like. Relatively simple, but many require more than my-first-soldering-job skills. Depends how small the connection points are on the mouse PCB. You'd have to open it up to see, since I don't see any pics of the relevant part on GIS. USB cables mostly have a standard red-white-green-black color wires on the inside, probably worth testing continuity to be sure though. OTOH google has several results for repairing the G400 that are about your specific issue, which may be caused by this bend that the cable does inside the shell. You may be able to fix it by just pushing the cable back into the shell a bit.
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Jun 23, 2021 20:20
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My Steelseries Rival 500 is experiencing double click so I think I will get a new one. Is there anything similarly large, maybe even larger, with a generous amount of buttons? Wireless is preferred, but do not care too much about accuracy? I am using a g502 I had laying around and it is too small.
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Jun 23, 2021 21:56
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Femur posted:My Steelseries Rival 500 is experiencing double click so I think I will get a new one. Is there anything similarly large, maybe even larger, with a generous amount of buttons? Wireless is preferred, but do not care too much about accuracy? https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Pro-Intellimouse-Dark-Shadow/dp/B07RPBXBMV I also switched from the Rival. Never going back. 1yr since purchase going strong.
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Jun 23, 2021 22:34
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Anyone got any useful contact information to RMA a Logitech 502? It's doing the left click=double click thing and the support chat is less than helpful.
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Jun 24, 2021 02:37
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Klyith posted:Relatively simple, but many require more than my-first-soldering-job skills. Depends how small the connection points are on the mouse PCB. You'd have to open it up to see, since I don't see any pics of the relevant part on GIS. thanks, i didn't think to check if it was a common issue. the feet should reattach without new adhesive, right? if i take the mouse apart.
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Jun 24, 2021 03:02
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Rinkles posted:thanks, i didn't think to check if it was a common issue. Ehh, if they were newer mouse feet and you were precise taking them off without misshaping them maybe they'd go back on flush, but I'd probably just take the opportunity to buy some new feet (especially on a model as old as a G400) since a two pack of them are 8 bux on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Hotline-Games-2-Pack-Replacement-Logitech/dp/B07H78H59J/ demostars fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 03:36
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Is the new microsoft intellimouse anything like the classic one? Is it worth getting as a replacement? My old intellimouse finally kicked the bucket and I was using it everyday with my work computer 
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Jun 24, 2021 04:08
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64bit_Dophins posted:Is the new microsoft intellimouse anything like the classic one? The Joe Man posted:MS Intellimouse Pro: Well, I've finally found the perfect mouse. After coming from SS Rivals, the build quality on the MSIP is leagues better and the larger/heightened shape fits my hand perfectly. Strongly recommend if you have larger hands and are looking for an alternative to the Rival. The Joe Man posted:https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Pro-Intellimouse-Dark-Shadow/dp/B07RPBXBMV
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Jun 24, 2021 04:19
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Rinkles posted:the feet should reattach without new adhesive, right? if i take the mouse apart. yeah if you're careful taking them off they stick back on just like new I use an xatco to kinda slide under the edge and work them off, rather than pulling them off from the top. Because the other think besides the adhesive is avoiding bending the teflon too much, it'll crease if you try to peel it off like a sticker.
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Jun 24, 2021 04:24
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South posted:Anyone got any useful contact information to RMA a Logitech 502? It's doing the left click=double click thing and the support chat is less than helpful. It's been a few years since I had to get help with my G400 but I found that calling them was the best way to get help. I had to read them the serial number and explain I won it playing World of Tanks but they shipped a replacement. I understand they've gotten less good about replacements since the switches have gotten worse but it's worth a try. https://www.logitech.com/en-us/about/contact.html
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Jun 24, 2021 05:50
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64bit_Dophins posted:Is the new microsoft intellimouse anything like the classic one? i really like mine. it’s a good mouse. works great with windows and is slightly wonky with mac os but still is happily my main driver.
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Jun 24, 2021 13:43
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The Joe Man posted:https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Pro-Intellimouse-Dark-Shadow/dp/B07RPBXBMV Thanks, I picked one up. I seen when they re-released it, but 5 buttons.. but lets see if it feels good in hand I guess.
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Jun 24, 2021 17:21
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Femur posted:Thanks, I picked one up. I seen when they re-released it, but 5 buttons.. but lets see if it feels good in hand I guess. My razer deathadder I use with my gaming computer also died recently and I just got a Steel-series Sensei 310 from prime day to replace it. I don't really like the buttons on the right side of the mouse, but after deactivating them it isn't a big deal. It's much nicer than my rival 110 and I like how it fills out my hand. Will post a full trip report once I've had a week to play around with it.
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Jun 24, 2021 21:52
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As much as I love the G502, and I really do, I'm on my third mouse in less than three years that's just started with the failing switches. This one lasted about 5 months after taking it out of the box. It progressed so fast that even lowering the poll rate in software, which worked before to prolong them, isn't helping. Is the soldering job required to put new switches on them easy? I've never soldered anything before but I could buy a cheap kit and some new switches to give it a go if it's not too daunting. Barring that, is there a similar mouse that has longer lasting switches in it for a similar price?
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Jun 26, 2021 02:10
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Duck and Cover posted:Mouse pad ranking. Artisans are generally agreed to be top of the pile on mousepads, for hardcore nerds who want to order poo poo from Japan. I like cordura ones as well - my Endgame MPC and Coolermaster MP510s are both very durable and maintain their glide for a long time.
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Jun 26, 2021 02:12
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Martian Manfucker posted:As much as I love the G502, and I really do, I'm on my third mouse in less than three years that's just started with the failing switches. This one lasted about 5 months after taking it out of the box. It progressed so fast that even lowering the poll rate in software, which worked before to prolong them, isn't helping. Is the soldering job required to put new switches on them easy? I've never soldered anything before but I could buy a cheap kit and some new switches to give it a go if it's not too daunting. They're not difficult, in that they're large targets that are easy to hit with the iron and have plenty of space around them so you don't have to worry about bridging connections. But anything on a PCB has the complication that temperature control is important. Also since switches are getting pushed on all the time, a bad soldering job will crack or fracture and become unreliable. "Cold" joins (which can be from the iron not being hot enough, or by the join being moved a bit as the solder was solidifying) are very common when you're new, and those are the ones that crack fast. OTOH too much heat can burn & weaken the PCB. So if you go for it, don't get the cheapest zillion-in-one soldering kit. Get an iron with temperature control.
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Jun 26, 2021 04:11
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Martian Manfucker posted:As much as I love the G502, and I really do, I'm on my third mouse in less than three years that's just started with the failing switches. This one lasted about 5 months after taking it out of the box. It progressed so fast that even lowering the poll rate in software, which worked before to prolong them, isn't helping. Is the soldering job required to put new switches on them easy? I've never soldered anything before but I could buy a cheap kit and some new switches to give it a go if it's not too daunting. how did things get so bad with logitech?
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Jun 26, 2021 05:46
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Rinkles posted:how did things get so bad with logitech? They went chasing lower power draw without exchanging the switch for one meant to run at that lower power. Not every mouse fails so as far as the bean counters are concerned it was the right move but it sucks hard for anyone who gets hit.
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Jun 26, 2021 10:18
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Bonus points for the legions of misinformed users bawling for a return to switches from 10 years ago or obsessing over mechanical durability in spite of this being an electrical problem.
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Jun 26, 2021 10:32
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dis astranagant posted:Bonus points for the legions of misinformed users bawling for a return to switches from 10 years ago or obsessing over mechanical durability in spite of this being an electrical problem. Yeah, sorry. I don't mean to make it sound like the switches are the problem, I know it's electrical, but it's just easier to describe it as "the double click thing" or "failing switches" when talking about what's going on. The soldering job sounds daunting so I just grabbed a refurb/return Basilisk v2 to try out. Never had Razer anything, but it looks exactly like a G502, so there's that.
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Jun 26, 2021 16:33
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Is this a thread where I ask for mouse pad suggestions? I don't even know if I should bother being picky about em.
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Jun 26, 2021 20:41
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Shinjobi posted:Is this a thread where I ask for mouse pad suggestions? quote:I don't even know if I should bother being picky about em. Do you have a reason to be picky about them? What do you want from a mousepad? The current hotness is mega-huge mousepads, because everyone thinks they'll be a CSGO pro if they set their mouse to 12 dpi. If you want to go with a desk size mega-pad, IMO it's best to just go with the QCK. Those are cheap & cheerful so you can replace them without crying. Mousepads wear out, a new mousepad always feels great. Personally I can recommend Artisan mousepads, for a set of qualifications: • want a normal-size pad (they make huge pads but the prices are stupid) • want extra slick / low friction • ok with paying $40 for a 12"x10" mousepad These were all the rage like 5-6 years ago based on having some super low-friction models. I took a chance of them because I like wireless (heavy) mice and figured an extra slick pad would help. Ended up really liking them. They're quite durable, which is the thing that justified the high cost to me. But they also have some quirks and are expensive enough that I can't say they're some type of Jesus mousepad.
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Jun 26, 2021 21:39
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I recently needed to replace my mousepad and went with the medium Steelseries QcK since it's kind of the default option. It's fine, but my wife has the Amazon Basics mousepad which actually seems to be slightly lower friction... not what I expected. I have the pretty heavy wireless Basilisk, so the QcK doesn't seem ideal, though I'm not sure I want to buy more mousepads either.
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Jun 26, 2021 23:21
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I can't stand cloth pads. No matter what one I've tried they all feel like I'm dragging the mouse across sandpaper. Some years ago I found a hard pad at Best Buy, and that thing lasted the better part of a decade before I had to replace it. It literally got so smooth it was starting to reflect. I found this no-name hard pad and have been quite happy with it. The mouse glides nice and smooth, it doesn't slip/move while using it, and cleaning it is as simple as wiping it off, maybe getting out some rubbing alcohol or even windex if I get something on it.
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Jun 27, 2021 06:07
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